Wait..there's a shriek knocker??

I hear what you are saying, but the physical knocker would not fire unless I set Knocker Sound to "on".
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Not that I've heard on MB. Hmm...

That is the name I gave to the ear splitting "twip" sound that late WPC-95 games used. I've hated it since I first heard it.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

No but Bride will shriek at you if you leave an un collected MB or MOR on the table as you drain your last ball

I got excited for a moment. Now I'm disappoint.

Audio sound of a Knocker...actually pretty close to physical sound.

I originally forgot to cut off the diode. Blew a fuse! ....all good and knocking now!

I took your advice and had cut the diode prior to install. It works now, but only with the A2.17 set to yes.
With A2.17 set to no, I won games via score, HSTD, and special, and no knock, no twip.

Strangely, I set the match percentage to 50% and had to complete 8 games before it matched. Odds of that are 1 in 128, or black coming up 7 times in a row
before a red at the roulette table.

The knock isn't classic Bally/Williams "THWACK" loud, but way better than the twip. I'm going to experiment with different knocker assemblys.

I'm going to do my IronMan now (S.A.M. system) and will document both of these methods in the PinWiki.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Stronger coil will do it.

And which part of the cabinet you put the metal plate on and aim the knocker at.

LTG : )

Man, I checked the switch to frank ramp. Everything looks fine. But super fast pass throughS don’t register frank to drop.... different subject. Glad you got it working. Mine is switched to off knocker.....

Where is match perfect adjust? Thanks. I’m a do the same I want to hear the knocker more often. Lol 50%

It should be under A1.19. Max percentage is 50% or I would have set it higher for testing.
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Getting my NIB Mb SE next week. I’ll see if the scoop is a problem.

When my MBRLE arrived, Creature was pinned against the underside of his lagoon glass/plastic. I adjusted the spring so he's not pinned against the glass. Now he dances around. Much better.

is he supposed to dance around? mine doesn't move...

Wiggle. He's fastened to a flat piece of spring steel.

LTG : )

OK now my phantom flip isn’t working. Started with the left or not responding. Now the right one doesn’t work. When I collect the blue targets. Nothing. It works in Opto works in switch edge test....

Anyone know where I can get a cheap color chip for my MBRce?

I’m having a ton of issues with the left bride ramp. It gets 3/4 of the way up, and then just stops. Has anyone found an easy solve?

I can't remember where I read it but George Gomez likes long ramps because it helps players. LTG probably knows--encyclopedias pinbalias.

That being said, I could stand to have a touch more to get up it. I have my flippers set to +1 and don't notice a difference.

My issue seems to be more with the guide. It is a challenge when it’s going too fast it’s not an issue of speed or momentum it’s like the ball hits a squeeze, but it only happens every other time or so. Too fast it stops too slow it stops.

There have been posts about taking the habitrail free and giving the curved wire form a tweaking... this tightens up the curve if you bend the return towards the left side of the machine. And opens it up if you tweek it to the right. Depends on how the ball is getting squeezed on which way to tweak it, but you are trying to match the curve of the cage to the curve of the stainless guide so the transition from one to the other is smooth. Mine required a tweek that made the shot available from right flipper, but it is narrow and tight and takes a solid shot to make it, which is how all the original MB’s I ever played shot, so now it matches my memory and it still makes it a bitch to complete Bride. I was only occasionally (read hardly ever) able to backhand a left Bride shot on OG MB, so it lines up with that now in my remake, shots to the left and right ramps are tight and tippy but you can get into the flow and hit them 1-2-3-4-5-6 which is what Gomez was looking for... a little Steve Ritchie magic in the ramps...

How are you guys reading this pitch? Electronic level or can you read the lines on the bubble in the game?

TIA,
Tom

I wouldn't trust the bubble.

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/iphone/index.html

LTG : )

I was having the same thing on mine and I made sure the wire form was tight under the play field and rolling the ball around I noticed it was hugging the outside wall and not smooth transfers to the wire form... I added a 1/8 plastic washer and raised it up some and now it makes a better transition..I would say 75%or better...still takes a decent shot but it's alot easier now

Hey! Does MB have a ball save option like afm? The original game must not have had it original programmed like afm?
Thanks !

MB certainly has a ball save option, though I don't know if it functions the same as AFM (as I don't own an AFM).

On page 1-39 of the MB Remake manual under A.2 Feature adjustments, A.2 01 Ball Saves. You can program from zero to five ball saves per player.

Ohh I didn’t know that either.
So you are supposed to “loosen” him?

Checked my “creature” tonight. It is also jammed up against the bottom of the playfield so it does not move at all. Should I bend it down?
Thanks!!

Free it up. Should wiggle on the metal it's hooked to.

LTG : )

Having the same issue... did you ever figure it out?

My drac worked perfectly at first but then I had the switch error on position 3 on startup a few times, and I began to notice he no longer works correctly. Now the startup test doesn’t even recognize an error but my drac still does not come out of the coffin when his mode starts. He eventually comes out and goes to position 5 and then right back in the coffin. Drac test also just shows him moving from coffin to position 5 and the back to coffin.

I opened a ticket and CGC had me check all the connections on the bottom of the play field. I did and everything looks correct, no breaks in any wires or anything. Awaiting response from CGC.

Mine did not move from the factory either. Just freed him up and do like the wiggle better!

Cool! So just bend it back until it doesn’t touch after you let it go?

I just bent the metal piece he is attached to slightly. He was actually still touching when I lowered the playfield so I wasn’t sure if I did enough, but he does in fact wiggle now.

CGC had me test all of the Drac optos which seem to work fine. We think the issue is with the metal switch/post that Drac is attached to. It is slightly rubbing on the wood on the side of the c-shaped slot that Drac moves back and forth on. They are going to show me how to adjust the switch so that Drac sits in the middle of the slot again which will hopefully fix this issue.

EDIT: This fixed the issue! Game works perfectly again.

Sweet!!!

Mine ball gets stuck on the bride ramp about 30% of the time. And it requires glass removal to get it free. Try as I might I cannot find any interference or rough spots anywhere that would account for this problem. Its really beginning to piss me off. When the grandkids are playing I can never finish my game somewhere else because I have to keep going over to theirs and getting the ball unstuck.

Please take a picture and post it next time. Maybe someone will see something.

LTG : )

My advise is unattach the habitrail return and give it a tweek in the “open” direction, that is the counter clockwise (taking the return lane end to the right) direction so that you then have some spring that you now have to slowly pull the return end back to its mounting. I had to do this so that direct shots would make the ramp, and the 30% missed shots roll back down. If the ball hang gets worse, reverse the direction and tighten up the loop. Somewhere in there you can find an acceptable position. From my own experience, so I have been where you are right now.

Mine ball gets stuck on the bride ramp about 30% of the time. And it requires glass removal to get it free. Try as I might I cannot find any interference or rough spots anywhere that would account for this problem. Its really beginning to piss me off.

I was having the same problem with the right side bride wire form ramp and CGC advised me to bend the top wire down so it was closer to the middle wire, thereby making it more difficult for a ball to squeeze in between the two wires and get stuck. Had to remove the plastic cover and free the front end of the top wire from its post to squeeze it down but it did cut down on the frequency of stuck balls. Still occurs occasionally but the ball usually shakes free after the machine cycles through one ball search.

I was unable to get my phone to take a pic in a low enough resolution to attach and post. So finally out of frustration and considering the aforementioned fixes I simply used both hands to pull hard on the outer wireform in that area and a little bit above it until I had changed the bend and it worked! No matter how slow a ball goes not it does not get stuck.

Thanks for the advice guys.

If the wire form you were having the issue with is like mine shown in the attachment , CGC recommends bending the top wire down, tightening the gap between the top and middle wires.

D7561F02-5938-4FFF-8C55-221DE4D2E34B (resized).jpeg

If the wire form you were having the issue with is like mine shown in the attachment , CGC recommends bending the top wire down, tightening the gap between the top and middle wires.

Just got my game last week, seems the 4th ball during Franks multi ball will not launch. Anyone have any ideas or is it not supposed to launch? There IS supposed to be 4 balls on the playfield during that correct? Sorry still learning the game but haven't gotten anything that launched all of them yet.

The 4th ball is only used in Monster Bash mode, Monsters of Rock mode, and Monster Mosh Pit mode.

The "regular" Frank multi-ball is only 3 balls.

Thank you!!!! It was driving me crazy. Glad I asked.

My drac doesn’t seem very sensitive. Sometimes I will hit him squarely and not have the game register a hit. Rarely can I collect his instrument. Any tips?

Start reading thread #18 above for some different approaches to improving Frankie’s sensitivity.
I found simply adjusting the wire “feeler” behind Frankie improved the hit percentage significantly. (I.e. pulling it out so it’s closer to Frankie).
The Home Depot insulator will work too, but then Frankie’s arm movements will be stuck in the down position when he stands up.