Count me in. I’ve been waiting for this one!
Stoked to be in for an LE. I'm usually more of a purist, but my thought is you are receiving quite a bit of value for not a lot of extra money compared to the SE. If I end up not liking the art engraved lock down bar, I can always replace it. Similarly, if I don't like the topper, I can remove it. I could likely sell the topper to someone that bought an SE and make up the difference in what I paid for the LE. I'm still pretty sure I'll like it all. I'm not looking for a debate here, this is merely to offer an idea for those that may be torn between ordering an LE or an SE.
My distributor just stated - They are producing number matching LEs at this time. 70 a week and have about 300 to go. Talked to CGC thursday they hope to start reg le non matching number customers in 3 to 4 weeks.
Quoted from flipnout1:
If someone wants their money back no problem, just ask. If the customer wants me to wait until I physically have the game no problem. I make no interest on money sitting in my account for a little longer. But realistically, depending on how someone paid, is it worth it? Did they do a wire transfer. Do they want to pay that fee again? Did they write a check? Now they have to wait for me to return their money via check and then send in another check shortly (we hope) after that. I've never had anyone ask for their money back that was waiting because of a factory delay of a few weeks or even a month or two. Cancellations sure because they didn't want to wait a year for the game we all thought was coming but ended up being way way longer than that.
So if someone out there has a better crystal ball let me know but no one can predict exactly what will happen.
That all sounds more than fair. I understand wanting to receive something in a timely fashion once you have paid for it, especially something this expensive. That said, I don't quite understand all of the fuss over this issue. I'm guessing it is less financially motivated and more the frustration of waiting for the machine. If having $5-8k tied up for a couple of months is that big of a deal, you probably shouldn't be spending that much money on a game anyway. Unless, you are an operator and dependent on that income. If that is the case, I would imagine you would skip this early run period and wait to order when there is greater availability.
It sounds like the best bet is to spring for the couple of extra hundred bucks for a delivery company that will provide white glove service set up of the machine in your home. Then, you are able to see the entire machine set up. If it’s not right, it’s not on you.
Does anyone know if CGC is working on a resolution at the manufacturing level to prevent this decal splitting?
Quoted from sirlonzelot:
The first picture looks like that the cabinet split. So there is maybe an other bracket needed. A friend of mine did that with his afmrle, after he knows that mine cracks, and he has now for over one year no cracks on his afmrle.
Thank you for the tip. I will be adding a simple right angle bracket with short screws on the inside of my MMr and my MBr LE when I receive it.
Any special talent or parts needed to hook up
A sub woofer or share one between 2 machines?
Quoted from vwallat99:
Well my non matched paid in full since November #739 made it today. I got home and went to bed around 7AM after a long night of work to be woken up by the FedEx guy calling telling me he was going to be at my house in an hour around Noon. I had set up my delivery time for Thursday that way I wouldn't have any conflicts. After scrambling to get some help to muscle her into the house everything got taken care of and worked out better since there is a huge snowstorm on the way here and I already had shoveled out my path to the walkout already so this saved me some work. I have a minor scuff at the decal edge but the picture makes it appear much worse.. It's really hard to tell unless you know what youre looking for. Game is warming up and will have the maiden voyage tomorrow. What a gorgeous game but unfortunately I went ahead with my basement renovation so no Monster Bash party until that's complete.
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Is that a magnetic cup holder? Does it stay in place with a full bottle?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
Pinballstar does deals if you pick up at a show they are attending, and you order beforehand. It's not a huge discount but it's something
There's always the Stern glass, which isn't quite as good but still rejects a lot of reflection. I have not used PDI/Roman glass but that is supposed to be the best
I just paid in full for my non-matching LE and am getting all set for its arrival. Does anyone know anything about the HD Glass Marco sells for $246 (includes delivery)? They claim: HD glass blocks 99% of UltraViolet light rays that deteriorate playfield plastics and artwork. Reflects less than 1% of ambient light for clearest possible playfield viewing.
Super neutral optical coating allows true color transmission through glass.
Quoted from Diospinball:
Well, I got rotten luck...
Seems a new record for broken machine for me though...
So no sooner than set up, one of the mechs breaks on me.
Frankenstien's Monster table does not go up or down. Its stuck in place. Yes, the game prepares for that eventuallity in the code, so I can still play the game, but the Frankie Monster's bash toy does come down, and lets be honest, its a cool bash toy.
I get there errors Switch 82 up/dn bank down.
Switch 81 bank up... And I think I might have an error on switch 83. Hard to tell. Don't like how the diagnostics is for this machine.
Also my lock down bar is very jittery. A pain in the butt to use. And I have them on my other machines... I really think stern discontinuing them is the right call.
Anyway. I am really cheesed off right now. Hope its a simple fix... I do have family coming over to play it tomorrow, and I'd like it to be working.
The lock down bar has screws on the underside of it that you can adjust to keep it from being jittery.
Quoted from vwallat99:
Yeah that's kind of where I'm leaning towards. Just wondering if anyone has done this yet and how it turned out. Idk if it will look right with the color changes?
Lermods sells a color changing trough light for MBr for $46. I’m likely going to order a blue trough light from them and not go for the color changing option.
Non-matching LE #804 will arrive tomorrow. I placed my deposit on day 1 and paid in full a week or two ago.
Quoted from delt31:
Now that I own one, I changed the GI color from warm to bright white and the game to me pops even more. I'm also someone that loves a ton of light so might be too much for some. There is also a LED strip option in the background to make that brighter which of course I turned up too.
FYI - as I didn't even know about the LED strip option in the back.
Are you saying the game comes with an LED strip in the back that you can adjust from the setting menu?
The Eagle has landed. Apparently safe and sound. The Road Runner driver was great and in no rush. He helped me remove the box. He even held the head up while I cut the strap and then re-secured it after giving the play field a quick once over. I gave him $20 on his way out just for being a great guy.
What's the best way to get a pin off of a pallet?
Quoted from bigdaddy07:
Put the front legs on and then lower it onto them. List the back up and kick the pallet out of the way. Then you'll need a helper to slide a stool under it while you have it lifted (or you may be able to pull this off on your own if its close by), so you can get the back legs on.
Thank you. I considered that, but once I get it off the pallet it must be carried upstairs. Maybe I'll just put the front legs on as suggested, pull the pallet out of the way and then take the front legs off again.
Does anyone know where to find the build date? There's a small price tag type sticker on the inside of the coin door that dates back to November 2018. This can't be the machine build date.
Finally, there is another sticker on the underside of the playfield that states Monster Bash #884/1000, but I have MBrLe #804. This must simply be the playfield run number.
So far I’m very pleased with the quality of the MBrLE. One of my few and minimal concerns is the back glass speaker panel do not reach the edges of the back box. In turn, light escapes from the sides (only at the bottom of the back glass and all of the speaker panel). What’s most annoying is that both pieces rattle. Anyone else having these issues?
Quoted from GCS2000:
Let me tell you invisiglass is sick on this game. Only way to fly IMHO. I wasn't a big believer in it until I finally saw it and makes a big difference.
I have two sheets arriving Wednesday. One for my MMr and one for my MBr LE. It’s great to hear your opinion. This is the first Ivisiglass I’ve purchased. I’m guessing there will be a few more sheets in my future once I get spoiled with the first two.
Quoted from Diospinball:
Okay... I got two questions.
I own an LE.
My first question is about the blasted Lockdown bar. I just have so much trouble putting it back on. And its still not in right. I've never been able to get it in there right. And it takes me minutes upon minutes upon minutes.
I have a breakshot, Hardbody and Raven. Those all have lockdown bars... Hardbodies is a bit different... Same with Raven... But, Breakshot's is very similar to Monster Bash's...
So I know how to use them... This blasted thing just won't lock in and close. So I have it half on half off and can barely shut the coin door. To top it off. Some of the foam has come off now due to all the mashing and handling. And I'm just handling it way to much and getting it dirty and filthy.
It's A POS! I HATE IT. And I need help to get it working right.
2nd question... Why no real knocker. I have a fake knocker... Did the original game not have a real knocker? Pretty sure it did.
And if it did... I thought these were supposed to be built from the real specs nothing left out.
So where the hell is my knocker????????
And then some good news... I still have to change the pitch. But, I did lower the flipper strength to -2. And now I am getting no more airballs. At -1 still too many. Sadly my machine has a bit of dimples on it... But, I rather play a game and have it get weathered then just look at it.
The original did not have a real knocker. There was some talk a few pages back about this. I believe a few peeps are talking about adding one.
Regarding the lock down bar. Most old machines are worn out or broken such that once you unlock it you can simply put it back on with out touching the handle and then you lock it back in place. On a new machine like your MB, when you go to place it back on, you must use the handle to re-open the mechanism and while holding it, place the bar back down. Keep pressing the bar down and then put the handle back in the lock position. You may be doing this already, but that's a thought. Another possibility would be to adjust the screws on the underside of the lock bar.
Finally made it to Monster Bash after a few weeks of ownership.
Here are my thoughts on the machine:
It’s goregous and the build quality is fantastic.
I have not had any problems yet with decals cracking. The topper and it’s light show, all the toys, the mirror blades, the powder coating and the huge screen and lit speakers make the choice for the LE the right choice for me. It is experiencing the same dimpling as my MMr and while even little details on machines often bother me, this does not. Steel balls at high speeds hitting wood...it is what it is. I get the occasional stdm drain like everyone has been describing...including the last ball of my high score game last night...ugh.
The only other game play issue that is actually more problematic than the rare sdtm is the left ramp must be hit perfectly. If not, the ball makes it 25-45% up the ramp and it rolls back down. The right ramp on the other hand can be competed with a week and lazy back hand shot. I’d love to hear anyone’s fix for the left ramp issue.
I love my MMr, but the MBr looks much more enticing to play. Friends all gravitate toward it over all my other pins. IMO, MBr and MMr are equally fun to play and for me, MBr is not an easy game.
I wish everyone much success in receiving their games soon, especially Bubblehead. I’m looking forward to his posts once the eagle lands.
It won’t make or break MBr. It’s not as significant as it is on MMr. That said, if it won’t break the bank, you might as well add the shaker for the full experience.
Anyone else have in issue where one of the two pieces of the left ramp at its entry point at the top of the play field does not drop into the dug out, but rather runs on top of it? I’ve had an issue where you had to hit the left ramp just perfect or the ball would roll back down.
I finally took the glass off today and realized the ball is being slowed down because it is hitting one of the two ends of metal of the left ramp head on.
I’ve submitted a ticket to CGC, but any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
Quoted from Bublehead:
MBrLE #1027 in da house...
Added the wavy washer, set upkicker to max, so no stdm from scoop. Put a tiny piece of black foam on the side of Drac’s feet, now no STDM from slow rolling right orbits, usually.
Plays like 20 years ago...
Might not see me for a while...
....and all is right with the world. Congrats Bubble Head. Enjoy!
Quoted from Ricochet:
Those are held in place by a kep nut beneath the playfield. I had the same issue and had to simply tighten down the nut... pulling the wire form down into position. You may be able to just push down on it from the top and it will pop into position then you will have to tighten the nut.
I’ve tried pushing down, but it wouldn’t budge. Is there a nut for each of the two pieces of the ramp that meet the play field?
Installed the new software update.
The knocker is much better. It’s still not the same as a real knocker, but for me it is close enough.
I’m very happy with the ability to increase the shaker length and strength. I simply went with longer and left the strength alone. It is a huge improvement over the original settings.
After the update, I did need to reinstall my custom logo and reduce my flipper strength again, but those appear to be the only settings that did not carry forward.
Thanks for the update CGC.
All Monsters and instruments, but the mic. Multiple Monster Bashes and a Mosh Pitt. Still no Monsters of Rock. My last ball was lost because Phantom Flip failed to fire. Argh!!!!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
That is strange - on my game, if phantom flip screws up, I always get a ball save.
I've only had Phantom Flip fail to fire twice. The first time, the ball was saved. That's why I felt comfortable allowing it to try and hit the shot I kept missing in my best game ever. Of course, that time, my ball was not saved. Ugh.
For those that don’t also own an MMr and follow that thread, CGC has released a Royal Edition of that game which brings MMr up to the standards of AFMr and MBr. They’ve added a topper, GI light show, and XL display and lit speaker panel among a few other things.
The point of posting this here is that CGC has shown their dedication to the early MMr owners by offering all of these as upgrade options.
Just a little more proof that the money we put into MBr is backed by a great brand.
Quoted from Moeman65:
I can't tell if there's much difference in the knocker volume with the new code 1.03. Anyone else experiencing this? Maybe I am missing something. Menu just allows for the knocker to be on or off.
Mine is definitely louder. I had planned on installing a real knocker. Then the upgraded code came out and it’s close enough to real compared to what it was before.
Quoted from V8haha:
Anyone know is there a setting to add a ball save after the ball comes out of the scoop? I have mine on location and randomly it seems to shoot right down the middle.
Rather not piss anyone off haha
I couldn’t find anything in the settings
That would be a great code update!!! I hope CGC is listening.
After ball launch, should a ball be able to go through the far left roll-over lane and hit the far left bumper without activating the bumper?
The center spinner often holds the ball up and causes it to roll back down. Is this normal. The bottom of my spinner is not parallel with the playfield. Maybe it needs to be adjusted?
Quoted from zpinman370:
Check to see if it is tight. I found mine got loose after 100 plays and looked like that. i just snugged it up and no more issue
Thanks to all of you for the advice. The entire mechanism does move when hit by the ball. I will tighten it up and add a bit of oil.
The ball plunger on my MBr always shoots the ball against the left side of the shooter lane. It does not seem to cause any issue with game play. That said, my MMr shoots straight. Is this normal for MBr or is there an adjustment that can be made to the shooter mechanism?
Quoted from LTG:
Loosen the screws holding the bracket with the auto plunger and turn it a little to hit the center of the ball.
LTG : )
I tried turning it a bit and have it hitting the center of the ball, but this didn’t not solve the problem. The plunger has quite a bit of play in it. Anything else you’d suggest?
Pop Bumpers Help: My pop bumpers, 50% of the time, can function completely normally and really get the ball moving. The other 50%, for instance, the ball can roll through the left lane, roll of the left bumper and then roll off the bottom bumper and never trigger the bumpers. I have attempted adjusting the bumper spoons under the playfield. They are near impossible to see. So, by trial and error, I have tried multiple different positions, but nothing helps. The distance between the switch blades looks good.
This can not be normal, correct? Am I missing something else that could be adjusted?
Quoted from LTG:
Turn the game off. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
LTG : )
Thanks LTG. It is near impossible to see where the left bumper rod rests on its spoon, but I am able to press down straight on each of the leaf blades and the corresponding rod does not move. I believe this means they are well centered. From what you mentioned, I do believe the spoons may be doing more than just resting on the rod. What would be the adjustment to lessen their contact?
Credit dot gives this error - "Left Gate Stuck Closed". Has anyone had this issue and successfully fixed it? In test mode the gate does not register when I move it. The gate is attached and has some play to it, but it is relatively close to the metal flap that prevents the ball from bypassing the lanes after being plunged. When resting, the gate is prevented from hanging completely vertically by a projection in the metal structure to which it is attached. I'm guessing this is normal. Thanks for any suggestions toward fixing the error.
It’s hard to imagine wood of such quality that a metal ball bouncing at high speed does not dimple it or worse. If pins from pre-2000 didn’t dimple, I can only assume that the wood was either cured for an extensively longer period of time or it was allowed to slow grow which made it stronger. You would think the coatings we have today would be superior to then. Either way, it is metal hitting wood at pace. I’m not a fan of dimpling, but prefer it to cracking. I’m also not a fan of playfield protectors. So, it’s not a museum piece, I choose to play it and enjoy it.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:
As someone that grew up in a woodshop, it is most definitely the quality of the wood used. Anyone that's done construction or any kind of work with wood will tell you there are vast differences between the quality of the wood/lumber over the decades. Try driving a screw in a new 2x4 stud, versus a 30 year old one. Tell me how it feels. Drop a pinball on your hardwood floor, did it dimple? That's the point.
Yes, seasoning, hardness, etc all come into play. This isn't my first rodeo. I have owned many pins, played many pins. This machine has 1500 plays, 1300 when I bought it. My original MB and MM have at least ten times more and not one dimple. Dimpling happens, as you stated Vid's very popular line steel ball and wood, but the wood they used for these PF's is trash. It's soft as hell and not really great for this application.
I hear you on the 30 year old stud analogy. But, that piece of wood has had 30 years to dry out and become harder. Would that same piece of wood have been that hard 30 years ago? Or, would it have been as soft as wood today?
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