(Topic ID: 222461)

Monster Bash Remake (MBr) Owners Club (with Poll & Pics)


By MrSanRamon

1 year ago



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  • 6,241 posts
  • 483 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by neverahighscore
  • Topic is favorited by 196 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Monster Bash Remake (MBr) Owners Club (with Poll & Pics)”

  • I'm in on a CE 41 votes
    7%
  • I'm in on a SE 100 votes
    16%
  • I'm in on a LE 306 votes
    50%
  • I'm out for now 162 votes
    27%

(609 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4230 Potential fix for SDTM from scoop. Posted by Reznnate (7 months ago)

Post #5928 Frankenstein switch adjustment tips Posted by MGM2 (69 days ago)

Post #6026 Links to STDM Tweaks Posted by Oaken (55 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#273 12 months ago

I just locked in my L E today. Said they don't start production until November 19th. Expect delivery around the end of the year or the first of next year. Seems like a life time to wait.

1 week later
#351 11 months ago
Quoted from ShinyBall:

Wow, if each distributor got around 40, that is a good chunk of the 1250 for the 1st run...ain't it?

My distributor was allocated 10 but later raised to 18.

1 week later
#497 11 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

So glad I jumped in early for my LE

I don't like the idea of hiring new employees and training them on the production of these machines. I can only hope that none of them get their fingers in my LE.

1 week later
#734 10 months ago

We know where her sole is. His is in PINBALL!

#875 10 months ago

Anyone having an issue with glare from the back lights? My friend just got his MBR SE and he says he needs an anti glare glass installed on playfield. Unlike Stern he tells me there is no adjustment for the power on back lights.

#1037 10 months ago
Quoted from Soltic:

After a weekend of play here’s a Honeymoon Report.
Prior to play:
- Pf and balls waxed.
- Static mylar in shooter lane until I get some real protection, thought previously would need in pops but mylar there already as well as drops and drac-track. Nice.
Minor issues corrected:
- GI clear cap fell off, ca’d back on.
- lock nut under red star post on frankie ramp fell off - all lock nuts in that assembly w the flasher were not tightened.
- Bride’s head kept sticking up - solenoid shaft was binding in body as well as at half-moon shaped bracket (if the shaft was twisted to either side a bit). Re-aligned and shimmed body, small amount of graphite at half moon bracket.
- Most important correction - could not level pf side-to-side properly at both bottom and top - obvious twist. Lock down assembly (which hangers rest on) was crooked. Easiest way to check this is to open coin door and feel alignment of assembly bottom in relation to coin door top. Mine was high left side 3/16”. Screws removed, bolts loosened, assembly realigned & everything tightened back up. Most people check side-to-side level at only one spot on pf. While shot aim and return trajectories is something a player can get used to between machines, some games need perfect level / no twisting - for FG / Shrek perfect level (and flipper alignment) is necessary so that the orbits can be hit by simply energizing flipper when ball is at rest against up-post and flipper. PL designed it that way.
Tweaks:
- Lighting. After redoing my TronLE again to allow ramps not to be overpowered by LED’s I defitnitely notice variations and personally find LED’s usually too intense. MBRSE out of the box is way overpowering for me in areas - adjusted light levels down and went custom GI color to go a little more yellow - but Creeches LED’s were still overpowering (IMO because they are aimed right at u) so stuck some green bulb condoms on and got what I think is perfect balance there - going after Frankie drop bank next as I find these searing as well - will probably diffuse those on the light board w simply some semi opaque tape.
- Frankie spot realigned to my pref.
- Played w subwoof setting.
- @ end of weekend pf cleaned and waxed again, rubbers cleaned, factory balls were chopped pretty good by breaking in metal edges and such on pf and scoop and therefore dumped and replaced w silver jets - which will be monitored.
Final thoughts after the weekend:
- So so nice to have a NIB MBR, really, I would have been fine if they only released the CE but the SE’s GI color integration (along w speaker lights) is fantastic, the redraw on the dots incredible.
- cc on pf is amazing.
- Biggest concern is longevity of scoop protector. I believe the reports from expo were that they seemed to be weak and after only a weekend of play I would agree. Ours is noticeably dented right in middle at front and near back on side and is starting to deform. It looks like a combo mantis and cliffy fused together but I don’t know if it’s the right gauge of materials. Always used Cliffy’s w no problems. I thought cgc said they were correcting it after it was noticed and reported at expo...?
Overall minor “4:20” production issues - which are easily overlooked by a NIB experience of a classic updated w/ the SE’s revisions, will start research into the scoop protector and if there may be a revision.

This is due to the new help hired to get these machines out. Hopefully my LE is later, that might prove to be a good thing. This stuff was what I was afraid of happening.

#1232 10 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I only play my games in the dark and with the sound way up. I love having the full effect. However, I agree if you have an issue with lighting, then I suppose you can just play with the room lights on. Personally, I would just add a couple of spot lights, which are cheap, easy to install, and effective.

When I play the lights are always on in the room, giving the same affect as playing anywhere else. My friends do the same. Never played pinball in a dark room anywhere and I have been playing for over 60 plus years. It's just a matter of personal preference. After all it's something that as of yet, we haven't been told how to do or a law to be broken.

1 week later
#1634 10 months ago

Isn't it time for another page? We are stuck on page 33

#1755 9 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

As of 12/29 @ 2 pm PST:
I'm in on a CE: 23 vote 8%
I'm in on a SE: 49 votes 18%
I'm in on a LE: 204 votes 74%
(276 votes total)

I am waiting on my LE hopefully in January.

#1920 9 months ago
Quoted from tomtest:

You said it didn't lose your settings but did it lose all your scores?

Go ahead and get that update installed. My initials are going to be installed no matter what you do to avoid the inevitable.

1 week later
#2207 9 months ago
Quoted from tomtest:

I sent Cliff a picture a couple weeks ago with the Blackline on but I didn't have the Mantis at that time so I put the factory unit back on until the Mantis came. I haven't sent him picts of the normal width one yet. Actually I don't mind the fat protector, I've put maybe a half dozen games on it and not one dent yet.

You have to hit it first before you can dent it.

#2432 9 months ago

Does anyone know what the issue is with the playfield that I have seen posted and supposedly has slowed down production? Do they make their own or does another company produce them?

#2562 9 months ago
Quoted from CGC-Ryan:

I want to provide a quick update on Monster Bash production. First off, I apologize for the delays in LE production.
As many of you know, we manufacture all of our playfields in house. Each MB playfield is carefully hand silk screened with ten spot colors. This is how the original playfields were manufactured. The spot colors create a color spectrum far richer and wider than what can be produced using four-color process. Each playfield we produce is a unique handcrafted piece of art with its own unique characteristics.
I believe we are the only pinball machine manufacturer still utilizing spot colors on our playfields. Some have moved away from screen printing altogether and now digitally print their playfields in four-color process. Digitally printing is certainly more consistent and far less expensive but it comes with certain compromises.
We are trying to keep the bar as high as possible and not compromise quality. I believe with few exceptions the playfields we have shipped in every Monster Bash have been beautiful. We do hold even higher standards for playfields going into LEs. To date, our production has yielded less LE worthy playfields than we hoped. As a result, we have produced more SEs and CEs than originally scheduled (and less LEs).
We have made several changes in the screen printing process and we are finally seeing much improved results. These results are starting to allowing us to move more quickly through production of LEs.
The number of people participating in our serial number matching program far exceeded our expectations - there were 246 participants in total.
We are anticipating completing all domestic serial number matching program LEs by February 1, 2019. After that we will focus on the balance of domestic and international LEs.
I want to thank everyone for their support and allowing us to do work that we love.

Thanks for the update! Waiting for my L E hasen't been an issue for me. If waiting and being patient results in a better quality and problem free product then so be it.

2 weeks later
#3156 8 months ago

Can't believe all of these problems that I have been reading about! All of this is just confirming my worst fears that I posted a couple of months ago. This is what I feared when CGC announced they were hiring new help to produce these games. Must have went down to the border and hired. I have been waiting for my LE since October. Hopefully this unfortunate stuff is fixed by the time mine is built.

#3163 8 months ago

Go South! Like the quality seems to be going.

#3203 8 months ago

it seems to me that when they build these machines they are building them with the thought they are going to be put out on location where they get the heck beat out of them by the public. I don't think they realize these machines are going to collectors with a more discriminating eye and higher quality expectations for the home and our collections.

2 weeks later
#3749 8 months ago

Just got an e-mail from Hemisphere Amusements informing me my MB LE is about 2 weeks out. I am #7 in queue. Paid my down pmt. in October.

3 weeks later
#4357 7 months ago
Quoted from tomtest:

That's the way it should be, "you shake it you break it", real men don't shake it!!!

A real pro can shake it without breaking
any physical part and redirect the silver ball to his intended target and not the balls own determination.

#4359 7 months ago

Just got a call this evening from my distributor for final payment on MB R LE. I should have it by the end of next week. If that holds true it took exactly 6 months from when I reserved it.

1 week later
#4578 7 months ago

My Monster Bash remake Le shipped out today from Hemisphere Amusements. Estimated date of arrival is Monday 3/25.
Serial number is 619.

#4659 7 months ago

Thanks to the help of my life long friend, Tom Test , we picked up my MB r. LE. and got it set up today. Things went very well! Going to finish the game settings later tonight. Played a couple balls and all seems to be ok. Beautiful Machine!

#4706 6 months ago

Picked up #619 MB r LE Monday. Everything went perfectly fine. Set it up that afternoon and finished the programming yesterday. Played and functions perfectly. Definitely a beautiful machine and a keeper!

#4712 6 months ago

What I call programming is going through all the menus and setting them to my preferences.

#4730 6 months ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

I had a good laugh at my own expense yesterday. I was doing a switch edge test and decided to drop a quarter in to see if the coin mech switches were functioning. The left was fine, but the right coin slot - the quarter did not pass. I hit the coin return and lo and behold, there was black tape over the coin return door. I removed it and found a spare coin door key inside... plus my missing quarter.
Even more proof that my eyesight is horrible.

Glad I read this. I wondered where my second coin door key was. After reading this I went down and found the black tape over the coin return and my second coin door key. Now if I can only find a key fob! I didn't get one at least at this point I haven't found it.

-1
#4740 6 months ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

I am about 30 days in on my game and would like to clean the playfield just to keep it nice. Should I just use a dry lint free cloth or should I spray and wipe down with Novus 1?

I use Novus 2 and a good quality cheesecloth. I'm generally clean my play Fields about every 200-250 games.

-1
#4742 6 months ago
Quoted from minnesota13:

Novus 2 is NOT a wax. It contains a grit/compound that performs as a cleaner but does not protect. You need to use a wax as has been previously
recommended on your playfield. A Carnuba wax is best.

The original question was about cleaning the playfield. I know it's not a wax it's a polish. Most operators and dealers recommend Novus 2 for various reasons of their own. Wildcat # 125 is also a polish and works well but not recommended for clear coated playfields.

#4751 6 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Anyone want to recomend a good distributor who will take a credit card (via paypal or directly) and might have an LE in stock? I am going to get on the phone and get this over with tomorrow.

Call Mark at Hemisphere's Amusements.
847-514-4283 They are GREAT!

#4814 6 months ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

Found solution for stuck balls in front of the bride ramp. I read on an older Pinside post a solution that works. Loosen up all the screws (3) on the left wire ramp then slide it south about 3mm or so and re-tighten all the screws again (of course). This will pull the wire ramp away from the metal wall (U-turn around the bride) so the ball won't touch it. This is the reason for terrible failed shots to the left ramp and it keep the ball from getting hung up there. I also keep my playfield at 7.1 or so. Faster game that way. Try it! Now my ball sores through the left ramp with a lot more ease and less failed shots.

We have played 104 game so far and it has only happened once. My Playfield is set at 7.2 degrees.

#4855 6 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Forgive me goronic and indypinhead, but this post was my version of an April Fool's joke--perhaps too subtle. So I'll end it before it goes any further. Please chalk it up to my being poisoned by all the rumors on pinside about this machine and to my anxiousness to get my LE, which still has not arrived. Sorry!

This is no joke we did it on my friends SE model and it does work. I haven't tried it yet on my LE model. It does work.

#4884 6 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Mine did that till I increased the pf angle.

At what angle did you set your playfield and the flipper strength settings?

#5041 6 months ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

I have an SE and no chain or keychain plastic. It took me a few weeks to find the extra coin door key- it was taped in one of the coin returns. 2 backbox keys on the coin mechanism key holder.

I have the L E and didn't get a chain or fob. Anyone know who makes fobs for pinball games?

#5048 6 months ago
Quoted from evh347:

I got my key fob from Rob, $10 shipped. Rob/Kim are super awesome taking care of their customers!
PM lermods for payment details.
[quoted image]

Thank you very much!

#5101 6 months ago
Quoted from canea:

I've got a rule question. Mosh Pit multiball is lit by 6 shots through the spinner, correct? What causes this count to reset? It carries over from ball to ball, but I'll build it up and then something will happen and it will return to zero.

After a predetermined number of spins it advances to level 2, then level 3 then resets back to 1. Doing that cycle twice gives Mosh pit. Continue doing these cycles awards extra ball, the mummy etc.

#5202 6 months ago
Quoted from Zablon:

LE #1222 finally made it!
A few things... I can't get the back glass off.. Key won't turn... Is it the same as the coin door?
Also this small plastic piece with adhesive appeared on the floor.. Any idea where it goes?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I would like to know too. I found the same piece of plastic.

3 weeks later
#5477 5 months ago

What does the flaming arrow above FRANKENSTEIN 's head accomplish?

#5502 5 months ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

What does the flaming arrow above FRANKENSTEIN 's head accomplish?

Bump

#5504 5 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

moeman65
That lights for Last Chance when you end Frank MB without getting his Organ, this insert flashes to let you know if you hit Frank, or the standup bank in front withing the timer, frank opens up again and if you shoot him, Frank mode is extended I think for 10 seconds and you can hit Frank and complete his instrument (organ). And I think it flashes when double and triple super jackpots are qualified too.

Thank you for the info. I appreciate it.

#5528 5 months ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

Hi Guys:
Is there an adjustment for the number of pop bumper hits required to start Mummy Mayhem? I can't find anything in the menu.
Thanks.

No, apparently it is predetermined in the code.

2 weeks later
#5666 4 months ago

What would cause the phantom flip to occasionally not flip? This happened on my game several times yesterday after playing several hours and it did it on both sides.

#5668 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Phantom flip is triggered by 3 things: a regular switch, an Opto and a proximity switch on each lane. Check under the playfield that the proximity switch hasn't gotten loose. It's held in with theee plastic clips and they aren't perfect. The switch needs to be as close to the surface as possibleThanks for the info. Found out mine has been redesigned. It has sensitivity adjustment and is set to 3. Increased it to 4 and will see how it works.

#5669 4 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Phantom flip is triggered by 3 things: a regular switch, an Opto and a proximity switch on each lane. Check under the playfield that the proximity switch hasn't gotten loose. It's held in with theee plastic clips and they aren't perfect. The switch needs to be as close to the surface as possibleThanks for the info. Found out mine has been redesigned. It has a sensitivity board set to 3 so I Increased it to 4. Will see how that works out. Sensors are mounted better too.

#5670 4 months ago
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2 weeks later
#5735 3 months ago
Quoted from fusion:

My game came with a compression spring for the tilt bob. It was in the same bag.

Mine too.

#5738 3 months ago
Quoted from tilted81:

I’d like to replace the rubbers in the upper right (mummy) pop bumper section w/ orange titans... are those 3/16 or 5/16 rings on all the posts?

Just look in the owner's manual, everything is listed there.

#5740 3 months ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Mine didn’t come with one, but it’s prolly available online?
Edit: manual just calls them black rubber bumpers don’t see a size...
Edit again: titan has them listed as 3/16Mine came with a real nice spiral type notebook. Much nicer than my stern manuals.

1 week later
#5770 3 months ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

A good game today, but I still haven’t made it to MoR.[quoted image]

I have only got MoR twice and it keeps you rockin and rollin!

20190708_084204 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#5860 85 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Question on this PDI glass--can it be cleaned just with Windex? I ask because I'm considering some for my MBR. I'll be routing my machine (don't shoot me!) and they'll be cleaning the glass occasionally, so I just want to be sure it doesn't require the special cleaner sold by PDI.

As long as it doesn't contain ammonia. Ammonia will remove the special coating on the glass that makes it non glare.

2 weeks later
#5932 68 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Just installed. It fixes a number of things:
V1.0.3 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:
1) Added setting to keep right popper coil activated longer to help avoid center drains from the popper.
2) Added Shaker Mode settings to increase length and frequency.
3) Adjusted volume down at lower settings (1-8).
4) Improved audio quality.
5) Increased volume of knocker sound through speakers.
I don't have a center drain issue on mine, so, no change here. But it looks like it delays the eject to allow the ball to full settle and have a consistent strike.

When did this code come out and where can I find it?

#5937 68 days ago

Thanks for the information. Greatly appreciated.

1 week later
#5993 60 days ago
Quoted from gmagno:

I have the card ready to perform the update. Any insight on the random loss of high scores? There must be a logical reason. Waiting on feedback before potentially wiping my scores.

When I did my first update on M.B. one of the steps asked if I wanted to delete scores. Just entered NO, and all previous scores remained. I would hope this second update does the same. I personally haven't done mine yet but plan to.

#6013 56 days ago

If you are having some trouble with phantom flip just adjust the sensitivity up one level. Mine started to miss occasionally so I adjusted it up to #4, factory is set at #3. Manual shows how to adjust it. Haven't had a problem since.

#6023 55 days ago
Quoted from mcfly:

Little help here, I have read all the tweaks and fixes etc but I am still adjusting the pitch nearly everyday trying to stop the balls coming down the right lane from hitting dracs feet. I have taken drac off and tried to move him to no avail, no amount of pitch adjustment seems to help and I didn't want to bend a side rail and possible damage my playfield, like I saw someone else on here do, or cut dracs feet. But if I had to do a fix....has the majority of people cut dracs feet or bent the side rail? Pitch adjustments don't fix it so I might have to do one of those because I am losing the majority of balls down the middle after it clips dracs feet. Oh and if I had to cut Dracs feet, how much should I cut off? is it a cut or file away scenario?

I wedged a small piece of rubber cut from fuel line hose behind the rail and it works perfectly. With the hose being black you won't see it either.

2 weeks later
#6084 39 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

An interesting occurrence..about 2 weeks back I updated the software. From the first game played after the update, my phantom flip would only light one side. If I hit the flipper button to switch it to the other inlane - it would stay unlit, and would not award me the auto-flip either. The side that would light worked as normal.
After a couple days/games I thought perhaps there was an operator adjustment for 1 or both phantom flip features to light, but never attended to this.
A few more day/games and the problem seemed to have solved itself. Everything is working as before the update and all’s good. Anyone else with the real ghost of the phantom living in their machine?

Phantom flip learns or teaches itself to operate. It takes several games for this to happen. The manual addresses this and also the tech dept. told me the same thing. Code update probably erased what was previously learned.

#6086 39 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

It's a *lot* more than "several" games too. You have to have the ball come down the inlane and roll onto the flipper, and make a shot (to the bride ramps, or the frank ramp usually), and *that* has to be done several times before the game will attempt it

I know actually mine took probably close to 50 games, but rest assured it will start to function.

2 weeks later
#6157 23 days ago
Quoted from splitskull:

so... no keyfob? And where is the box key? The hook on the door doesnt have anything on it.

Check in coin returns. I found something in mine but can't remember what it was.

#6158 23 days ago
Quoted from CHIEF1893:

Good Day,
Recently started experiencing issue with the mummy sarcophagus not popping open. The game is an LE and only a month old. Any suggestions or tweaks as im sure its something simple. Thank you.

Sometimes it pops open with such force that it flips back down. Observe that first then check the connectors under playfield.

#6165 21 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

I will post again my fix for Drac’s feet/right orbit rollbacks going SDTM. It is mostly passive, but I cut a piece of 1/8th inch thick self adheasive black craft foam, about a small rectangle the size of the left side of his feet and stuck it there. This made mine play like most all of the original MB’s I have played over the years. But just like the original, there is a slow rollback from the right orbit that will bounce off his feet and foam and still head SDTM if you do nothing, but a nudge to the machine as the ball hits his feet and it will kick it to the left flipper every time. I had a friend over to play it, he scored a personal best HS, and my GC score is at 500mil plus, and I RARELY drain from right orbits, usually when I am not paying attention and forget to nudge. But this fix requires no bending, prying, wrenching, or loosening of brackets, requires a pair of scissors, some self adhesive foam and about 10 minutes of your time. Enjoy!

I cut a small piece of black auto vacuum hose and wedged it between the post and orbit guide and works perfectly. Hose blends in with black rubber post and looks factory.

#6172 15 days ago
Quoted from fanuminski:

Can you post a closeup pic? Thanks

Hope this helps

20191007_094901 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#6223 4 days ago
Quoted from Lounge:

If it’s working, don’t touch it.
I just got finished modifying and installing a Mantis modified (slotted screw holes) scoop. Works flawlessly now but it took a few weeks to find the right combination.

My scoop always worked fine and still does even after the code update.

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