CE for me.

Just voted for a CE, a nib mbR at $6k is hard to pass up. By the time I’m done with the game, it will look like an LE and we will have mods available to improve aesthetics so others can benefit too.

For those interested, we have a monster bash remake rgb undercab light mod tested and ready to go. It is similar to our afmr undercab lights. The undercab lights tie into the speaker lights and move in sync with them. For now, these work with the le and se only.

We will have both speaker lights and undercab lights for the CE, but I am waiting to get my CE so I can test them. Other mods also in the works, but I need my game first

https://lermods.com/t/monster-bash-remake-pinball-mods

It's in the works along with another mod...just got word my game arrives tomorrow so i can begin testing and working on connections.

When does the disc trigger in the LE?

Got my game today and overall it's really nice, but I am extremely upset that I cannot get the translight out. The key works, but panel will not rise enough to clear the speaker panel. I took the lock out still nothing. Reached inside to see if I could move the speaker panel enough to free the translight. No luck. The most simple of things it seems they didnt get right. I'll have to waste more time trying to free this thing. A bit of a joke.

Anyone have any thoughts?

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Tried that. I lowered the head, pulled speaker panel all the way down as far as it will go from the inside while pushing up on the tranlight, won't come out.

Trim looks fine. The panel won't go all the way up, seems something is obstructing it. Pic shows the panel pushed up as far as it will go, needs to go higher, bit it wont.

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I finally got it out, but putting it back in is just as difficult. I tapped on the trim with a rubber mallet to make sure it's seated and it's still very tight going in and out. I basically have to slam the translight up to get enough room to clear the speaker panel. speaker panel is sitting flush with the bottom so that’s not the issue.

I can now get it in and out, but it's not right compared to any other game, including my afmr and mmr. I'll call them on monday. Not really sure what they can do, maybe I need a new panel.

If I had to guess, I'd say the light panel is sitting too high. In fact, you can see in the pic that there is some black paint on the panel corner suggesting it is hitting the top of the cabinet.
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In my view, it does rise to that level. It's a simple thing to ensure a backbox can be opened. It's also a major flaw so CE there is no way I csn possibly fix it. That said, besides this issue, I'm very happy overall with the game and I expect they will fix the issue.

I had two other issues, a wire came off a gi light in the backboard, didn't look like it was soldered and just held on with heat shrink and my lock down bar needed adjustment, both I consider very minor. I will put a ticket in for the backbox, but only fix I can see is a new better formed backbox.

It's really hard to believe I have a brand new mb, unthinkable just a few years ago.

Crap, and I thought I had a good game. That's a great score. My game plays really well.

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I opened a ticket.

For those having issues with your back box translight being too tight, the solution is simple. Took me 5 minutes to fix. Cgc responded to my ticket first thing this morning with the fix.

Remove the trim around the back glass, remove back glass and remove the translight. Draw a 1/8 line across the bottom of the tub. Trim off the part you marked, reinstall everything making sure the glass is even with tje bottom of the tub. It will overhang the top of the tub slightly. Really easy fix. Cgc was aware of the issue and said a few had been cut long so those waiting on their games, don't worry.

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i have one on my MMRLE, came with it on when I bought it. i don't notice its even there. if i ever take it off, will be nice to have a brand new pf underneath.

Not sure what kind of camera or settings you are using, but here's my CE with just a blue trough light taken with a pixel xl2, no flash, pitch black room. It's not dark at all.

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It looks like your plasma disc is always on so receiving constant power. I struggled to get it interactive in the game as Cgc has disabled the feature in the CE. If you are running it off the GI, there’s a good chance it won’t last long as the disc is a 3v unit and the gi is 5/6v

Here’s mine in the SE, interactive. we put a nice cover over it too.

It tells you in the manual that they specifically deactived in the CE all the cool features of the SE and le, disappointing. Since you seem well inclined, You should do an led strip in the coffin, just solder to the flasher board below the pf.

We are having the frame of the disk 3d printed, I'd guess we will have it ready late next week or the week after. If you or anyone is interested, PM me and I'll email you when they become available before we list it. I'll have about 10-15 of these in the first batch. Not entirely sure on price yet, probably around $70 depending on printing cost.

I had a nib mbrse delivered last night, plays perfect right out of the box, zero adjustments needed so far. Balls not flying off ramps. I had one or two balls go sdtm from the scoop, but it was not the norm. Two initial observations.

1. The game is much darker compared to the CE, likely due to the RGB lighting, especially on the lower area of the pf. But when in modes, the RGB lighting really shows. Hoping a trough light will help with this.

2. The protector in the ball drain is different. It has a piece cut out to prevent the ball from getting stuck. In my CE, there was no cutout.

I'll spend some more time on it today.

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I couldn’t decide what color trough light to put in this (had blue on my CE, which looked great), so I put in an rgb color changing trough light. Lights the lower playfield well.

Why is the scoop protector getting beat up on mbR but not AFMr? Same scoop, same shot. I have a cliffy on my AFMr scoop, no wear.

On my GBLE, I put a piece of foam weatherstripping on the inside of the scoop, it worked and deflected the ball to prevent sdtm. Maybe that would work here for those with the issue. It's an easy, cheap and quick fix if it works.

The shaker is very underwhelming in the game. It’s barely active and not worth it for this game. I notice it on Frankenstein mb and the match sequence. Much better on AFMr and mmr.

Agreed. It should go off every time you hit Dracula, but it doesn’t. Should go off every time a mode is started, but it doesn’t. Should go off in mosh pit, it doesn’t.

Shaker isn’t very active in my SE.

My ball gets stuck a little lower on the ramp. I need to increase pitch to 7.

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Same here

I think it’s pretty cool you can load custom logos on the game. Didn’t realize I could do it to my afm se also.

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I set mine at 7, same as my AFMr SE. I like it loud and I have it hooked to an external sub, sounds great. I wish Cgc could remaster the audio for MMr, which always sounded flat and a bit tinny, even with the Pyle upgraded speakers.

Same here.

Cool decal, but why is it more on pinside than on eBay? I ordered it from eBay.

What is the phantom flip supposed to hit off each flipper? Or is it just a random shot?

The only reason I can see to get the le is the topper and maybe the lock down bar plaque. Everything else can be duplicated on the SE, including the plasma disc, which as noted, we are offering plug and play and exactly mimics the performance of the disc on the le.

The CE is completely different and is missing a lot in my view, though it is more akin to a stock original MB.

Interactive! There is a plug in the game specifically for the plasma disc. The disc only lights up when the signal for that plug is activated. Hits to Frankenstein, when Frankie mb is ready, when Frankie mb is active and a few other times throughout the game. It is not always on. This plug is also in the CE, but it is disabled and cannot be turned on so no signal comes through.

I can wire one for the CE, but it will always be on.

https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-pinball-interactive-plasma-disk

Find a local wheel repair shop, they likely do powder coating. You can do an entire game for well under $200. It's about $10-$15/part plus the cost of powder, which is about $30 delivered. Prismaticpowders.com for color choices. I almost exclusively use the illusion series of colors. And my place turns it around in 2-3 days.

I agree with both of these posts. It is unfortunate that people paid and haven't received their games. If I were CGC, I would try to communicate with distributors to explain what the delay is so it can be relayed to customers. Doesn't have to be specific, just a general reason/update would suffice (parts supply issue, technical issue, etc.) A few weeks delay is one thing, but if it is going to extend beyond a month or so, something should be communicated given that expectations were that payment was due in full two weeks before shipping. Overall, i would not be too worried (which I realize is easier for me to say since i have a game), CGC will deliver a great game.

Demanding your funds back is not an approach I would personally take as it could lead to even more delays. CGC/Distro has to issue a check, takes 3-5 days to arrive, you deposit your check, takes a few days to clear, you mail a new check back when asked, takes another 3-5 days to arrive. You are potentially creating a 3 week delay for yourself.

Before i received my SE, I was told by my distro that my game was two weeks out from being shipped and I needed to pay in full. I sent a check to the distro and two weeks later I had my game, drop shipped from CGC. This is how it is supposed to work. If within that two week period, something happens on CGC's part, such as finding a defect, then a delay occurs and this is what I suspect is happening now.

Yes, same way you hook up to other games, clip on positive, clip on negative, run wires to sub. Polk psw10

I’m totally fine if my SE has some minor playfield coloring defects, it never crossed my mind and would not have swayed me either toward or away from an LE. It’s nice that Cgc has a discerning eye, but I think for most people, they will never find the defects. It’s not like we are talking about ghostbusters type issues.

Cool, glad you like it! Where to plug it in with pics and how to install it is in our instructions on our website. The packaging it came in also provides info on where to find the instructions.

Got mine too, good quality and looks great.

We developed an interactive trough light tied to the GI. It matches the GI, changing color when the gi lights change color. For the SE and LE only, sorry CE owners. For CE owners we have a standard RGB trough light.

https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-led-strip-interactive-rgb-trough-light-kit

Should be on the Cgc website.

Maybe it was the extreme temperature changes that we just went through the past couple of weeks.

The good thing is that all three play exactly the same. Choice is really based on aesthetics.

Accent lighting looks much better to me than flooding the playfield with light.

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It does change with the game on the SE and the LE, but not the CE.

Now I know why my games never get delivered on time

Yes, but a bit risky. Open coin door, clips could move. Better off either soldering them or connecting to the 6v header header. Typically clips are fine, but not in an area that sees a lot of movement. Blowing something on this game would be very costly.

I bought mine from cointaker, check with them

Joe is a standup guy, I would not lose any sleep over dealing with him. I have my money with him for potc le. You will get your game. It’s possible joe sold out of his batch of games and is waiting on the next delivery while othe distros May still have supply. He responds quick when I’ve emailed him.

I didn't know joe sells stern games.

Was having just a few too many sdtm shots Frome the scoop so added a piece of 1/4" foam to the inside right of the scoop. Shoots to the left flipper every time now.

Also added a couple of drops of dry lube to the woman's metal post (her name escapes me) and it's now a lot more active.

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Duplicate post

Congrats, you’ll love it, worth the wait.

I can only answer about the trough lighting as I have an SE.

https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-led-strip-interactive-rgb-trough-light-kit

https://lermods.com/t/monster-bash-remake-pinball-mods

i actually prefer the RGB interactive (yeah, I know it costs more), but it seems to fit the game better and I like, for example, when everything turn red for dracula or green for creature. RGB colors are never going to be quite as bright as a single color. for single color, blue or purple solid are great choices too, and are a lot cheaper.

The CE is a great choice, it is basically exactly the same as the stock Williams game. The color upgrade is a must in my view, it's like adding a colordmd to the original. The SE and Le just have added bells and whistles, which are really nice. Enjoy the game, I love mine!

We can provide the disc without the ring if someone wants it. For the CE we would need to add a small component to reduce the voltage to 3v.

You can buy the disc and wire it up yourself. You just need to reduce the power down to 3v. On the SE, the same plug the LE uses is active with 3v. On the CE, that plug is disabled so you have to run it off the 6v header and reduce to 3v. There is a high failure rate if not hooked up correctly as 6v will kill it faster.

I'm happy to answer questions people have about it, but ours costs what it does because we've done all the legwork, invested in the game, etc. I actually thought the ring was a nice touch rather than just having a bare disk.

No offense taken whatsoever, everyone has different tastes. We just modified our Disco ball for a customer as he didn't like our original design. All good.

For plasma disc, unlike the SE and LE, it will be on all the time in the CE, it is not interactive, there is no way around it unfortunately. We recently made one for the original game, it just requires a tiny board to reduce the voltage from 6v to 3v.

Look on ebay or Amazon for a 6v to 3v converter. You run the wires off the battery terminals in the disc, then to the converter, then to the 6v header. We have instructions on our website for the connection...all transparent.

Please ask questions, we don't want you to hurt your game or blow up the mod. PM is fine too.

I’m telling you guys, a small piece of foam weatherstripping on the right inside of the scoop is all that is needed to avoid sdtm.

Both topics have been covered extensively in this thread. The scoop is an easy fix with a small piece of foam weatherstripping on the inside right wall of the scoop.

I had the CE and it was too stripped down for me. The ability to do some add-ons to the SE plus the larger color screen made me switch to the SE.

Picked up some mirror blades from cointaker at the Allentown show. Good fit, no need to remove the hinge bolt as the holes are wide enough to go around them...really like the fit and look on the game, much more depth.

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Run the wire out the back of the play field. It mounts on the screw in the back left so very easy to just go right out the back. Instructions on our website.

Back corner, little gap there. Feed wire over the top of the backboard, then slide your wire down the side of the backboard.

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People say it's an easy shallow game, but I find it to be pretty difficult actually. Every once in a while I'll have a great game, but if you can't hit the shots the game is very unforgiving.

Depends on which version of the game you have. For the SE/le we have an interactive trough that changes with the GI and we could also supply one for the backboard if you want more light than the cgc RGB strip provides

https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-led-strip-interactive-rgb-trough-light-kit

That looks pretty good! I was thinking of doing mine in a blue flake.

there is an open header under the playfield that supplies 6v. you can use that. check the manual for the wiring diagram, which shows it.

if you did it this way, the spotlight would only come on when that color was active. like I said, the easiest way is to use the open header. if you want I can make up a connector so you can connect your spotlights. contact me.

Upgraded the code this morning, improvements are significant for sound and the shaker. Shaker now more active, including in the pops, and the game now sounds more like AFMr. It wiped out my custom logo unfortunately, but not my scores or other settings.

its a lot crisper(and louder) for the treble and the bass feels stronger, even with the external sub I have hooked up. If you had AFMr, you would notice the difference between MBr and AFMr. AFMr has some of the best sound from a stock set up I've ever heard, and now MBr has that same sound. I wish they could do it for MMR, which has pretty bad sound.

Congrats! Not much to do, no protection needed other than periodic wiping it down and waxing (carnuba only).

Yes, you can get it from the Cgc website and update via USB. A few things were addressed, include scoop kick out and sound plus sone added shaker interaction.

People have been complaining about how dark their lower playfield is so we made some spotlights. Didn't want traditional spotlights as they seemed out of place so we made our own. It's a 3d printed bracket/cover with a piano key decal on top. We will have them on our website And pinside shop maybe later today or tomorrow for those interested. Runs off the game's 6v circuit.

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Thx, that was our intention, throw some light on the middle of the playfield, yet integrate them into the background. They are up on our website if anyone wants a set. Plug and play.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fmonster-bash-remake-spotlight-covers

What’s your game pitch at? I set mine at like 6.8-7. I had the same issue and changing pitch helped.

No magnets

I use the Clinometer app for my pixel, works great.

Pop bumpers

No, it’s more active than that, just giving an example so you can see if it’s working. Are you running the most recent code? Earlier code had limited use.

Here's a link to our mbr page with all of our mods. The most popular are the plasma disc, RGB trough and undercab linked to the speaker lights. We also recently added spotlights for the lower playfield.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=t%2Fmonster-bash-remake-pinball-mods

Been pretty quiet in here so here’s one of our newer mods for MBR and MB.

Illuminated Bat Mod.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fspooky-bat-mod-spk-bat-mod

Yes, search my username in this thread.

For me it was a deal breaker. I initially had a CE and didn’t like it, it was too stripped down so I sold it and got an se that I am very happy with. Things are deactivated in the CE, like being able to add a plasma disc or light up Dracula, the sound and big screen are much better and I really like the rgb lighting and speaker lights, plus the shaker motor. In the end, game play is the same across models, but I think the experience is a little better on the SE.

If you have a budget, stick with it. If you can add some money, the SE is a great choice too.

Pop bumpers too

These can be rotated downward so they don’t wash out the instruments or monsters or they can be mounted on the lower screw of the sling plastic instead of the upper screw. Maybe try that. I did notice on the brightest setting it does wash it out, but once I dimmed them down it wasn’t an issue.

I actually never noticed this until I just looked for it. The speaker lights actually reflect much more.

Here's how it looks in my game. instruments are very easy to see, I see The others well.

Yes, I use the pinnovators mixer and pinsub on my game, sounds awesome. Definitely makes a noticeable difference. Maybe you dont have it connected properly?

It only comes on at certain times during the game, such as when frankenstein mb is ready. Should not be on all the time.

You have to adjust the leaf/spoon switches. As hard as it might be to access, that’s where your issue lies. You can put the game in switch test mode and roll a ball around the bumpers to see if they are triggering. If not, keep adjusting.

Place a 1” piece of foam weatherstripping along the right wall of the scoop about halfway down and it will go to the left flipper every time.

I posted the fix a while ago in this thread...it’s as simple as that. I used the same fix on GB.
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Can’t recall the exact size I used. Try something like 3/8” thick x 1/4” wide. We don't have metric sizes here in the US.

Yes, there are open ports on the main board under the playfield. We offer reasonably priced low profile piano key spotlights that are dimmable.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/monster-bash-remake-spotlight-covers

Anyone know if you can plug the le topper into the se and have it work the same as in the le? I’m thinking it won’t work.

guilty…

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-motorized-disco-ball-mod. Triggers off the extra ball insert, which is when it shows on the display.

I'm disappointed to hear this, you should have contacted me, we take care of things like this very quickly. You can still send it back and I'll take a look at it, no charge, I'll even cover your shipping both ways if you are in the US, hassle free, just send me a PM or email. Depending on when you purchased it, it's possible you had one from a batch of louder motors, but most likely it's picking up some vibration from the plastic. We now use some dead foam on the bottom to isolate the noise. It is, however, a motor, so it's not going to be silent. These have been really very reliable and we use the same motor across many different mods. I'd say the failure rate is below 1%. And we always fix or replace them at no charge, same with any of our mods that might have an issue.

If I recall, it goes off in the pops, when Frank’s table is hit and when the game ends. Might be a few more instances, but it’s not much more active than that.

We offer some lighting options, including backboard, trough and playfield spotlights.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/categories/monster-bash-remake-pinball-mods

The spotlights can be set to different levels of brightness with a dimmer module. The backboard lights really are user preference. Most popular seems to be blue, purple or white.

https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-led-strip-rgb-speaker-light-kit