CE for me.
Just voted for a CE, a nib mbR at $6k is hard to pass up. By the time I’m done with the game, it will look like an LE and we will have mods available to improve aesthetics so others can benefit too.
For those interested, we have a monster bash remake rgb undercab light mod tested and ready to go. It is similar to our afmr undercab lights. The undercab lights tie into the speaker lights and move in sync with them. For now, these work with the le and se only.
We will have both speaker lights and undercab lights for the CE, but I am waiting to get my CE so I can test them. Other mods also in the works, but I need my game first
Got my game today and overall it's really nice, but I am extremely upset that I cannot get the translight out. The key works, but panel will not rise enough to clear the speaker panel. I took the lock out still nothing. Reached inside to see if I could move the speaker panel enough to free the translight. No luck. The most simple of things it seems they didnt get right. I'll have to waste more time trying to free this thing. A bit of a joke.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Quoted from LTG:
Plastic trim on top or bottom of the translite slipped up ?
Haven't seen this issue before.
LTG : )
Trim looks fine. The panel won't go all the way up, seems something is obstructing it. Pic shows the panel pushed up as far as it will go, needs to go higher, bit it wont.
I finally got it out, but putting it back in is just as difficult. I tapped on the trim with a rubber mallet to make sure it's seated and it's still very tight going in and out. I basically have to slam the translight up to get enough room to clear the speaker panel. speaker panel is sitting flush with the bottom so that’s not the issue.
I can now get it in and out, but it's not right compared to any other game, including my afmr and mmr. I'll call them on monday. Not really sure what they can do, maybe I need a new panel.
If I had to guess, I'd say the light panel is sitting too high. In fact, you can see in the pic that there is some black paint on the panel corner suggesting it is hitting the top of the cabinet.
Quoted from andrewket:
Pissed is a strong word, and the issue doesn’t seem to raise to that level. Annoyed, sure. Pissed? Give them a break. I’m sure they will fix it. Go play a few games.
In my view, it does rise to that level. It's a simple thing to ensure a backbox can be opened. It's also a major flaw so CE there is no way I csn possibly fix it. That said, besides this issue, I'm very happy overall with the game and I expect they will fix the issue.
I had two other issues, a wire came off a gi light in the backboard, didn't look like it was soldered and just held on with heat shrink and my lock down bar needed adjustment, both I consider very minor. I will put a ticket in for the backbox, but only fix I can see is a new better formed backbox.
It's really hard to believe I have a brand new mb, unthinkable just a few years ago.
Quoted from JeffF:
Just had an incredible game for me!
Stock settings except I closed the inlanes and have free balls set for 60m, 120m and 180m. I know some of you can probably get this score on your first ball with wide open lanes only using one flipper since MB is so "easy"... but it felt like I won a small world war using a dull butter knife! LOL.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Crap, and I thought I had a good game. That's a great score. My game plays really well.
For those having issues with your back box translight being too tight, the solution is simple. Took me 5 minutes to fix. Cgc responded to my ticket first thing this morning with the fix.
Remove the trim around the back glass, remove back glass and remove the translight. Draw a 1/8 line across the bottom of the tub. Trim off the part you marked, reinstall everything making sure the glass is even with tje bottom of the tub. It will overhang the top of the tub slightly. Really easy fix. Cgc was aware of the issue and said a few had been cut long so those waiting on their games, don't worry.
i have one on my MMRLE, came with it on when I bought it. i don't notice its even there. if i ever take it off, will be nice to have a brand new pf underneath.
Quoted from tktlwyr:
Here’s my SE in the dark, set to max brightness with warm white on G.I.
Not as bright as you guys are thinking and why I ordered Pinstadium lighting for the game.
Not sure what kind of camera or settings you are using, but here's my CE with just a blue trough light taken with a pixel xl2, no flash, pitch black room. It's not dark at all.
Quoted from JeffF:
Just added mirror blades and a $10 plasma thingy to our MBr CE.
Here are a couple videos showing some gameplay, lighting in a very dimly lit room, and the plasma thingy doing it's thingy.
Plasma thingy video:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like your plasma disc is always on so receiving constant power. I struggled to get it interactive in the game as Cgc has disabled the feature in the CE. If you are running it off the GI, there’s a good chance it won’t last long as the disc is a 3v unit and the gi is 5/6v
Here’s mine in the SE, interactive. we put a nice cover over it too.
It tells you in the manual that they specifically deactived in the CE all the cool features of the SE and le, disappointing. Since you seem well inclined, You should do an led strip in the coffin, just solder to the flasher board below the pf.
Quoted from Ricochet:
When will you have that available for sale? I would love to put that mod on my SE.
We are having the frame of the disk 3d printed, I'd guess we will have it ready late next week or the week after. If you or anyone is interested, PM me and I'll email you when they become available before we list it. I'll have about 10-15 of these in the first batch. Not entirely sure on price yet, probably around $70 depending on printing cost.
I had a nib mbrse delivered last night, plays perfect right out of the box, zero adjustments needed so far. Balls not flying off ramps. I had one or two balls go sdtm from the scoop, but it was not the norm. Two initial observations.
1. The game is much darker compared to the CE, likely due to the RGB lighting, especially on the lower area of the pf. But when in modes, the RGB lighting really shows. Hoping a trough light will help with this.
2. The protector in the ball drain is different. It has a piece cut out to prevent the ball from getting stuck. In my CE, there was no cutout.
I'll spend some more time on it today.
I couldn’t decide what color trough light to put in this (had blue on my CE, which looked great), so I put in an rgb color changing trough light. Lights the lower playfield well.
Why is the scoop protector getting beat up on mbR but not AFMr? Same scoop, same shot. I have a cliffy on my AFMr scoop, no wear.
Quoted from Ledman62:
My fix for straight down the middle from middle kickout popper. Max out coil strength and bend the metal like my pic. 100% now.
On my GBLE, I put a piece of foam weatherstripping on the inside of the scoop, it worked and deflected the ball to prevent sdtm. Maybe that would work here for those with the issue. It's an easy, cheap and quick fix if it works.
Quoted from Blackzarak:
I just adjusted the ramp the most I can will see it if works.. thanks for the help.
I got one more question when is the shaker motor supposed to interact with the play field mine only activates when Frank's multi ball and when I bash Frank or when mummy's coffin opens it doesnt seem to really interact I was wondering if the LE are the same [quoted image]
Shaker isn’t very active in my SE.
My ball gets stuck a little lower on the ramp. I need to increase pitch to 7.
I think it’s pretty cool you can load custom logos on the game. Didn’t realize I could do it to my afm se also.
I set mine at 7, same as my AFMr SE. I like it loud and I have it hooked to an external sub, sounds great. I wish Cgc could remaster the audio for MMr, which always sounded flat and a bit tinny, even with the Pyle upgraded speakers.
What is the phantom flip supposed to hit off each flipper? Or is it just a random shot?
The only reason I can see to get the le is the topper and maybe the lock down bar plaque. Everything else can be duplicated on the SE, including the plasma disc, which as noted, we are offering plug and play and exactly mimics the performance of the disc on the le.
The CE is completely different and is missing a lot in my view, though it is more akin to a stock original MB.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:
Is your plasma disk interactive or it just always on?
Interactive! There is a plug in the game specifically for the plasma disc. The disc only lights up when the signal for that plug is activated. Hits to Frankenstein, when Frankie mb is ready, when Frankie mb is active and a few other times throughout the game. It is not always on. This plug is also in the CE, but it is disabled and cannot be turned on so no signal comes through.
I can wire one for the CE, but it will always be on.
Quoted from GCS2000:
Any idea what it costs to powdercoat side rails, LD bar and legs these days?
Find a local wheel repair shop, they likely do powder coating. You can do an entire game for well under $200. It's about $10-$15/part plus the cost of powder, which is about $30 delivered. Prismaticpowders.com for color choices. I almost exclusively use the illusion series of colors. And my place turns it around in 2-3 days.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:
It's damned if they do and damned if they don't. My guess is the delay is due to a QC issue. If shipped out with that issue, they would be getting flamed for thier quality. If new parts had to be ordered, it could take a month or two to get the inventory. Where CGC is screwing up is communication, or lack of. Most people would be calm if they simply knew what was going on.
Quoted from arcademojo:
As someone that has worked in manufacturing for 15 years. I try to explain these setbacks and delays from all companies.
Do you people really think these companies just decide to hold games for weeks at a time just to piss customers off??? Because that’s what a lot of you sound like.
The smaller the production line is the harder it’s hit by anything that can cause a delay. I’m waiting on an LE. If it’s delayed by a month or three to get it right then so be it. I’d rather wait for a correct finished product then something rushed just to please a few whinny customers.
I agree with both of these posts. It is unfortunate that people paid and haven't received their games. If I were CGC, I would try to communicate with distributors to explain what the delay is so it can be relayed to customers. Doesn't have to be specific, just a general reason/update would suffice (parts supply issue, technical issue, etc.) A few weeks delay is one thing, but if it is going to extend beyond a month or so, something should be communicated given that expectations were that payment was due in full two weeks before shipping. Overall, i would not be too worried (which I realize is easier for me to say since i have a game), CGC will deliver a great game.
Demanding your funds back is not an approach I would personally take as it could lead to even more delays. CGC/Distro has to issue a check, takes 3-5 days to arrive, you deposit your check, takes a few days to clear, you mail a new check back when asked, takes another 3-5 days to arrive. You are potentially creating a 3 week delay for yourself.
Quoted from delt31:
Not sure i follow this - maybe I don't understand how the process work.....
The full payment from the customer that is being requested is going directly to the distributor. The distributor has already paid CGC to get their game allotment. These distros that are asking for full payment way in advance are just covering themselves. Is that not the way it works? Serious question not being sarcastic. All of the delays you speak of is between customer and distro to actually allow them to release the game to you and in reality it wouldn't take that long at all. Distro says I have your game, you say great - here is a wire (instant), check 3 days, credit card (instant) etc.
I would think this is true b/c not all distros are asking for full payments on the game yet. Mine hasn't recieved more than 1k yet they def have their allotment already from CGC. They don't "need" the remaining balance for CGC to then begin building my game - that is just ridiculous. I personally wouldn't support distros that do that - it's just not a pro consumer practice. That's why I always go to the same distro as I've bought many NIB and never paid in full in advance and guess what - my game was never delayed. Things worked out well each time.
I think communication is bad and yes we're going to get games so I'm not personally pulling my hair out. What's frustrating is distro's asking people like us to front them money for games that are perpetually delayed in addition to owners of LEs and even SEs saying hey guys - it's all good.....you'll be fine. Then they step away from the computer and play their new MBr haha.
I'm all for delays if it's QC issues - just communicate that to us. At least give some update as to what's going on. CGC usually does this in the thread so I anticipate they will here - I think that will help.
Before i received my SE, I was told by my distro that my game was two weeks out from being shipped and I needed to pay in full. I sent a check to the distro and two weeks later I had my game, drop shipped from CGC. This is how it is supposed to work. If within that two week period, something happens on CGC's part, such as finding a defect, then a delay occurs and this is what I suspect is happening now.
Quoted from GCS2000:
So I have read on many threads for other games that adding an external Polk sub under the cab is way better than using what's in the cab - would you guys agree the same should be done for MBR? If so how would this be hooked up and which Polk sub is recommended for this?
Yes, same way you hook up to other games, clip on positive, clip on negative, run wires to sub. Polk psw10
I’m totally fine if my SE has some minor playfield coloring defects, it never crossed my mind and would not have swayed me either toward or away from an LE. It’s nice that Cgc has a discerning eye, but I think for most people, they will never find the defects. It’s not like we are talking about ghostbusters type issues.
Quoted from drummermike:
Just put in the Lermods plasma disc. It works and looks great. Should show or tell where to plug in though. Nothing in manual. Goes under the playfield on a dedicated spot.
Cool, glad you like it! Where to plug it in with pics and how to install it is in our instructions on our website. The packaging it came in also provides info on where to find the instructions.
We developed an interactive trough light tied to the GI. It matches the GI, changing color when the gi lights change color. For the SE and LE only, sorry CE owners. For CE owners we have a standard RGB trough light.
Maybe it was the extreme temperature changes that we just went through the past couple of weeks.
The good thing is that all three play exactly the same. Choice is really based on aesthetics.
Quoted from delt31:
I put a LED strip (5 bucks) that is hooked up to a couple of alligators that I've attached to the coin door lights. Works perfect. [quoted image]
Yes, but a bit risky. Open coin door, clips could move. Better off either soldering them or connecting to the 6v header header. Typically clips are fine, but not in an area that sees a lot of movement. Blowing something on this game would be very costly.
Joe is a standup guy, I would not lose any sleep over dealing with him. I have my money with him for potc le. You will get your game. It’s possible joe sold out of his batch of games and is waiting on the next delivery while othe distros May still have supply. He responds quick when I’ve emailed him.
Quoted from Pinballer31520:
Joe has always been prompt to reply to any issues I have had with any game and he has made sure my purchased machines are shipped as soon as possible. He goes above and beyond for me . Sorry if you have had issues and I know the frustration of wanting the machines asap. I have bought 6 games from him so far and just preordered Black Knight LE. I enjoy working with him .
I didn't know joe sells stern games.
Was having just a few too many sdtm shots Frome the scoop so added a piece of 1/4" foam to the inside right of the scoop. Shoots to the left flipper every time now.
Also added a couple of drops of dry lube to the woman's metal post (her name escapes me) and it's now a lot more active.
Congrats, you’ll love it, worth the wait.
I can only answer about the trough lighting as I have an SE.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:
I apologize for the fact that some of this has been covered before, but I'm struggling to find time to read through all the thread posts and I anticipate my MBR LE arriving soon and am placing an order for some pin parts anyway, so I'm looking for some certainty about what the LE includes and what it might need to be more bullet-proofed or blinged.
Is there a metal shooter lane metal kickout protector installed? If not, would the one that fits on Stern machines below the bubble serve that purpose?
Is there a Cliffy-style scoop protector installed?
Any thoughts on the lagoon overlay?
I am getting the 7-piece plastic protectors (which includes the sling protectors) from Marco already. Any other plastic protectors available and recommended?
Some have mentioned that lighting can be added to the trough area. Can you point me to that resource?
I'll also be getting the spring washer to add to the scoop coil as recommended earlier in this thread.
Any input welcome, and thanks!
Quoted from GCS2000:
Trough lighting is a must! I have the RGB one but in retrospect would have preferred a solid color to be honest.
I also got the Lermods undercab lighting and its great. It runs off the speaker lights for the SE and LE so when they change with the game the undercab does as well. Nice effect simple install and looks great.
i actually prefer the RGB interactive (yeah, I know it costs more), but it seems to fit the game better and I like, for example, when everything turn red for dracula or green for creature. RGB colors are never going to be quite as bright as a single color. for single color, blue or purple solid are great choices too, and are a lot cheaper.
Quoted from Monk:
I bought the CE just over a week ago and to me it's perfect. I'm not a big mod person, so the additional cost to upgrade to the SE or LE was just to much for me. I have had newer Sterns, older Ballys, and older Williams and I have to say the remake feels just like the older BW pins. Very sturdy cabinet. Playfield looks great and they have added a cliffy around the scoop as well as maylar for the drac track. I did purchase the color upgrade just this week which looks great. I would play without the upgrade first as it might not be worth the $400+ for everyone. All in all I really enjoy the game and think the quality is excellent. No regrets from me purchasing the CE.
Edit: I'll just through this out there as well. I think what you get on the SE is well worth the extra cost. I thought about getting the SE, it just didn't fit my budget.
The CE is a great choice, it is basically exactly the same as the stock Williams game. The color upgrade is a must in my view, it's like adding a colordmd to the original. The SE and Le just have added bells and whistles, which are really nice. Enjoy the game, I love mine!
We can provide the disc without the ring if someone wants it. For the CE we would need to add a small component to reduce the voltage to 3v.
Quoted from konjurer:
Thanks but... I dislike that one and it's $70 more expensive that the ones you can buy off Amazon. Hoping JeffF can shed some light on his mod.
You can buy the disc and wire it up yourself. You just need to reduce the power down to 3v. On the SE, the same plug the LE uses is active with 3v. On the CE, that plug is disabled so you have to run it off the 6v header and reduce to 3v. There is a high failure rate if not hooked up correctly as 6v will kill it faster.
I'm happy to answer questions people have about it, but ours costs what it does because we've done all the legwork, invested in the game, etc. I actually thought the ring was a nice touch rather than just having a bare disk.
Quoted from konjurer:
No offensive was intended Lermods! I love your stuff - I just liked the plain disk better. Can you remove the outer disk from yours and does it work with the CE? Thanks for your help.
No offense taken whatsoever, everyone has different tastes. We just modified our Disco ball for a customer as he didn't like our original design. All good.
For plasma disc, unlike the SE and LE, it will be on all the time in the CE, it is not interactive, there is no way around it unfortunately. We recently made one for the original game, it just requires a tiny board to reduce the voltage from 6v to 3v.
Look on ebay or Amazon for a 6v to 3v converter. You run the wires off the battery terminals in the disc, then to the converter, then to the 6v header. We have instructions on our website for the connection...all transparent.
Please ask questions, we don't want you to hurt your game or blow up the mod. PM is fine too.
I’m telling you guys, a small piece of foam weatherstripping on the right inside of the scoop is all that is needed to avoid sdtm.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:
Monster bash is great but two problems . One the ball keeps getting stuck left ramp area and second the damn scoop fired right down the middle ! They didn’t test these things before shipping out ?
Both topics have been covered extensively in this thread. The scoop is an easy fix with a small piece of foam weatherstripping on the inside right wall of the scoop.
I had the CE and it was too stripped down for me. The ability to do some add-ons to the SE plus the larger color screen made me switch to the SE.
Picked up some mirror blades from cointaker at the Allentown show. Good fit, no need to remove the hinge bolt as the holes are wide enough to go around them...really like the fit and look on the game, much more depth.
Quoted from rwalters21:
has anyone installed the lermods plasma disc on a SE? can u send some pics on where u ran the wires through underneath the playfield?
Run the wire out the back of the play field. It mounts on the screw in the back left so very easy to just go right out the back. Instructions on our website.
Quoted from Bublehead:
Frustrated and vexed to no end... It plays and feels like a solid machine, and the newly added features are tip top. Plenty of dimples, due mostly to airballs off the tomb treasue target, and The Monsters feet... yeah, most call him Frank, but that is really not his name, but the Doctor’s. The Bride ramps are tight shots, so is Creature, and the right orbit is tight... every shot but The monster, left obit, and the tomb treasure target is tight. Drac stops at 4 locations that are not easy to hit unless you trap the ball and shoot him specifically. The drains are on super suck, there is no default ball save unless you turn it on, the scoop will reject balls readily unlike an original, unprotected one where the chipping wood helped wear the lip till even the slightest graze if the scoop was enough to sink the shot. Now, direct scoop shots tend to clang off the back of the scoop and the metal edge protectors and send the ball on an initially strait back to the flipper path just to watch the rotating axis of spin take the ball on a quickly curved trajectory SDTM. Hard rebounds off the tomb treasure target do similar things as the ball is initially lofted off the target but takes a radical SDTM turn once it regains purchase with the table surface. This machine embodies the phrase “this ball is wild”.
All in all, great title, great new features, but the same old frustrating MB... you got to love it. Oh, and the thing is a freaking one machine personal light show... by itself in a dark room... pretty amazing.
People say it's an easy shallow game, but I find it to be pretty difficult actually. Every once in a while I'll have a great game, but if you can't hit the shots the game is very unforgiving.
Depends on which version of the game you have. For the SE/le we have an interactive trough that changes with the GI and we could also supply one for the backboard if you want more light than the cgc RGB strip provides
Quoted from gjm7777:
I tried asking in the mod thread, but might as well ask here before breaking out the multimeter/schematics.
I want to add some spotlights to the game, does anyone have a good location to tap 5v? the GI should* be the natural spot but the connectors are obviously not normal.
The spotlight for Frank might be one location but it's not always on - the other two spots I was thinking of would be the GI under the slings or the inserts showing the creators/team of the game at the bottom L/R.
there is an open header under the playfield that supplies 6v. you can use that. check the manual for the wiring diagram, which shows it.
Quoted from gjm7777:
I also found these. I'm assuming in the case of adding a spotlight, one lead to 5v, one to a color, (or would it be ground) I'm just a bit nervous as I dont want to blow a board or fuse.
With a regular WPC pin the lamp socket terminals don't matter, and my logic would be adding one to 5v, one to color would basically emulate that.
if you did it this way, the spotlight would only come on when that color was active. like I said, the easiest way is to use the open header. if you want I can make up a connector so you can connect your spotlights. contact me.
Upgraded the code this morning, improvements are significant for sound and the shaker. Shaker now more active, including in the pops, and the game now sounds more like AFMr. It wiped out my custom logo unfortunately, but not my scores or other settings.
Quoted from 3pinballs:
was the sound not that good initially? what sound enhancements did you notice? thx
its a lot crisper(and louder) for the treble and the bass feels stronger, even with the external sub I have hooked up. If you had AFMr, you would notice the difference between MBr and AFMr. AFMr has some of the best sound from a stock set up I've ever heard, and now MBr has that same sound. I wish they could do it for MMR, which has pretty bad sound.
Congrats! Not much to do, no protection needed other than periodic wiping it down and waxing (carnuba only).
Quoted from GamesbyAPK:
Is there code updates for the remake? My distributor said that the code already was done before CG came out with the remake!
Yes, you can get it from the Cgc website and update via USB. A few things were addressed, include scoop kick out and sound plus sone added shaker interaction.
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