SE for me!
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Quoted from mtp78:
I personally cant see getting an se with and le only being 800 or so bucks more shipped.i understand everyone wants different things but the le comes with some cool stuff.
I can't put toppers on because my ceiling is too low. I would like the shaker though. I can do without the other stuff.
Quoted from MEuRaH:
He simply copy & pasted the message to everyone. It's a lot easier than sending a personalized message to everyone on the list. Did you order through PinballStar aka Joe as well? I'm sure he'll be good to his word.
Yes. Joe just said the pin is coming from Chicago to me direct. I will have to muscle it down the steps with my friend. We are getting too old for that!
Just came off the truck. I have to wait for my friend to help me get it down the stairs! I will send more pics later.
Thanks. I saw the CV for sale from Firebird Pinball. He did a nice job shopping it. I jumped on it right away! One of my favorites. Only pin I have beaten so far. You will love your LE.
Not many CV out there. Good luck in finding one. Some people do get tired of it. I never tire of the ringmaster. Rudy is better though!
Just got the shaker in my SE working. Thanks to Plunger069! Set on light it is working great.
I have played a few games since the install. Hitting Frankenstein's monster during multiball shakes. Also some times when the Mummy sequence is going it shakes. There may be more that I have not experienced yet. It seems to be used sparingly. I like it a lot. Worth it!
Quoted from ShinyBall:
I'm a little surprised that this wasn't caught by some kind of quality control, now that we have had 2 people with issues stated. You would think that someone had to force it in and would realize that at the factory?
I can only hope they will look into it.
I had the same problem getting the translight out. It did come out with just a slight amount of force.
I have had my MBr SE for three weeks now. I put in side art from Pingraffix and a shaker. It has played almost perfect from the start with no adjustments. The scoop protector is wearing but looks OK. It is doing its job. The ball has come off the right ramp a couple of times and landed in the poppers. It plays fast and is fun. It is a great game.
Quoted from dts:
Help me out...I'm on the list for MBRLE but have come across a STLE with a few hundred plays. Which will hold the most interest over time? I know, we are all different, but I'm curious what you guys think if you have a lot of experience on both.
Get both. I have had my ST for a while. I may not play it for a week or two but then when I do I remember how good it is. Multiball with the shaker is great. I just got the MBr SE. Always wanted MB but too much money. Glad I got the new pin. Different enough for me than ST. Lots of fun. I put shaker in MBr also. Will keep both.
Quoted from CGC-Ryan:
Happy New Year's Everybody.
I wanted to give everybody a quick update as to what is going on here at Chicago Gaming Company.
We are in production currently on the Monster Bash Limited Edition Serial Number matching games. We are working hard to get them completed to start our standard Monster Bash Limited Edition Production run. As you know we are committed to delivering the highest quality in all of our products, so we are taking a little extra time to ensure that every game is up to the quality that we demand.
We also have released a software update for all current Monster Bash games already delivered.
This update can be found here: https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/monster-bash/update
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:
1) Reprocessed audio to increase volume.
2) Fixed bug where custom logo would revert to default over a power cycle.
I want to thank everybody for all the support and wish everybody a Happy New Year
I tried with no success to update the new code. The folder says "MonsterBash102" only. No installer.img. I download a zip opener that did NOTHING. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Lloyd just sent better instructions that I will try later. Thanks. Was for Windows. free zip app from App Store.
Quoted from WizWiggy:
I'm having the same problem. No file to unzip, it's not a .img file. Following Windows OS instructions.
Lloyd just sent me better instructions that worked. I still had some confusion with the zip file though. Not sure what I did to get it working. You may have an easier time. PM me or Lloyd (LTG) for the instructions. Thanks again Lloyd!
Quoted from ninjabones:
I'm waiting for my MBR, somewhat confused by the mosh pit protection issues. Can someone confirm the latest recommendation? Is it to remove chest is included completely and replace drug the full sized cliffy and mantis protector?
My original protector is holding up. There is a mark where the ball is going in but no bad dents. I would wait and see how it holds up.
Quoted from delt31:
For the SE guys expressing frustration - I do understand your point You seem to be very particular though about the machine which leads me to something I don't understand. If you're that particular how in the world do you not get the LE version of this game? So much more value and you get the definitive version that it appears you're looking for.
I got my SE for the upgraded figures, sound and display. I added the shaker, side art and the plasma light. I have no room for a topper and would not want it anyway. The blue armor is nice but not needed. I do not like the lock down bar.
Just put in the Lermods plasma disc. It works and looks great. Should show or tell where to plug in though. Nothing in manual. Goes under the playfield on a dedicated spot.
Quoted from Lermods:
Cool, glad you like it! Where to plug it in with pics and how to install it is in our instructions on our website. The packaging it came in also provides info on where to find the instructions.
I looked again and did find the info on the plastic bag it came in. Sorry about that!
MBr SE needs 4 more ratings, MBr LE needs 5 more and MBr CE needs 13 ratings to get on the top 100 list.
I took the CGC hole protector out and just put a piece of mylar down. I cut a section of the protector out to stop the ball from hanging up but did not like the result. Mylar works!
Just to let you know, the table mod does not lower the arms. Kristen said the design was changed because of a fit issue.
Quoted from Mdanielb:
Have any of you guys that have split decals submitted a ticket to CGC regarding that issue? I contacted my distributor, that is what he instructed me to do. I did so on Monday, but haven't heard anything back. Just curious if anyone else is in the same boat. I'm not sure what to expect from them response time-wise.
I just looked at my MBr SE. The right corner is split. Not going to worry about it.
Quoted from Zablon:
Is that because newer cabinets are made differently? Weren't old style cabinets brought to an angle at the corner to the point? Whereas these newer cabinets all appear to be flat box corners.
Quoted from Bublehead:
One thing the Navy taught me to do as nuclear ractor operator was think outside the box, or on top of it
But honestly, when looking to solve issues like this, you gather as much info as possible, brainstorm all potential possibilities and then construct and conduct investigations that eliminate each possibility. Do we see CE’s and SE’s with decal cracks, no?, so why LE’s? The topper shipping box et. al. and it's 40 pounds of dead weight is a HUGE floating mass at the HIGHEST distance from mother earth, which is like the absolute worst combination. This would be on my list of “possibilities” along with “heat embrittlement” if they use hair dryers in the decal applying process, or “chemical embrittlement” if they use solvents for ANY cleaning operation, vinyl does not like some solvents and can become brittle when exposed to them. These three are the biggest what if’s on the list to be explored- phisical cause, thermal cause, or chemical cause. It falls into one of those three more than likely, so now figure out how to eliminate each one. That can take time, which is something CGC is already having a problem with on LE deliveries.
My SE is now cracked. It was not cracked when I got it NIB.
Quoted from SkaterVet:
Anyone know the best place to buy Invisiglass? Is there a place that gives you a price break on more than one sheet?
I got 4 sheets from JJP. They shipped 2 and I picked up 2 at their factory. I have Magicglass on my Houdini. The Invisiglass and Magicglass are almost identical. They are both great.
The Invisiglass has a more green color. The Magicglass has a lighter less pronounced green hue when you look at the image of the overhead lights. They are different.
My 5 IG are all the same. Got them at different times. Glad they all do their thing!
Quoted from GCS2000:
Looking to add some LED Britebuttons to my LE when it arrives - what is everyone's opinion on color choice?
Original buttons were yellow. I see lots of redone OG games with blue. I think purple also works.
As I look at side art of the LE (with the blue trim) I am also thinking the green ones might be a solid choice as well.
Green or yellow.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
How many people actually have a game? Every time I check this thread it’s about somebody disappointed or waiting for their delivery... who’s actually playing the game?
I have my SE about 5 months. Love it! Not as easy as lots are saying. FUN. Added side art, shaker, plasma disc and changed some rubber to add more color.
I fixed the right ramp ball stuck issue on my MBr. I took the ramp out and filed the V inner edges down. There were six small nubs. I also bent the ramp in slightly. No more ball stuck on ramp. I think this fix was posted before.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
the other thing you can do is bend the right-hand ball guide (the one directly above Dracula) outwards - toward the middle of the playfield more. If you want to get really fancy you can add a thicker post rubber to the post in the area, which will keep the ball guide in place. I just bent mine gently with a padded screwdriver, but having the post rubber would make it more or less unmoveable. You don't need to bend it much, but just keep rolling a ball down and make sure it doesn't hit Dracula's feet (which is what causes most of the drains from the right orbit)
Never have problems with Dracs feet. I will bend the guide to see if that helps though. I raised the right side legs. So far it is slightly better. Have to play more to see results. Thanks again.
Quoted from Vabeachrunner4:
Random question that may have already been answered (sorry if it has) but I just updated my SE to the newest code and noticed immediately that the volume was “louder” at lower volumes and “cleaner” however I’m noticing a “vibrating” or “rattling” sound even with it turned down modestly to like a 4 or 5...has anyone else noticed this or am I just crazy?!
I have the MBr SE also. I have the new code and the volume is set at 1. I have no vibration or rattling until the shaker goes off.
I put in a shaker from AP that I got for "free" in my MBr SE. I used the power upgrade credit from my Houdini to get the motor. It works perfectly.
You could put in any compatible shaker from other sources.
Today my MBr SE has an issue. Test shows switch 81and 82 are broken. They are for the up/down targets below the Frank table. They seem Ok but will not activate the mech. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Hello Lloyd. Switches 81,82,83,84 and 87 all test OK. The table will not go up or down though. See photo. Thanks.
Quoted from LTG:
In test try giving it a push or pull, see if it's stuck on a plastic or something.
If it starts moving, check for obstructions and put a drop of oil on the pivot points.
LTG : )
Working now. Table wires were tight on the way up. Also a wire broke off the up/down targets motor. Thanks Lloyd.
Quoted from lockislit:
Anyone have issues with Frank's table or Drac not working all the time?I'll put on test and lift playfield and just touch connections and will start to work again.Ive reseated connections numerous times but after a few games starts messing up again.
My Frank table stopped working. A wire on the motor was broke off. I soldered the wire back on and gave them more slack.
Quoted from jorant:
To you guys that have owned this for a while, how are you liking it? I am looking to get another pin, and want a Monster Bash. Currently I have Dialed in and Hobbit, and love them, and am looking for a more shallow, quicker ball time game to compliment them. It is either this or an Attack From Mars. Just figured I'd ask some of you your thoughts on the game now that you've had it for a spell?
It will be shorter ball times. It can be a drain monster. It may be my least favorite in my collection.
It is fun sometimes though.
Get the SE. I added shaker and plasma disc. Love the larger screen and the color changing lights. Now if I can get the ball to not drain.
Quoted from mbeardsley:
Which rubber pieces are recommended for this machine? I just had one of the original flipper rubbers break, so I swapped both out with "ordinary" red flipper bands that I had from Pinball Resource.
It plays MUCH better now, in that the response from the flipper is much more predictable. I think that the original bands had much less grip, making the ball sometimes sort of "slide" off of the flippers during a shot.
I was surprised how quickly this band broke. Are people using Titan bands, and if so does it make the game play any differently? I had been considering upgrading to Titans on my other machines soon, but didn't think the the MBr would need new rubber this soon. Does CGC use crappy rubber as stock?
I use Perfect Play silicone bands from Pinball Life in all my pins. Lots of colors to choose.
I tried Super Bands but the PP are better. Titans look great but I have not used them.
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