(Topic ID: 222461)

Monster Bash Remake (MBr) Owners Club (with Poll & Pics)


By MrSanRamon

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,210 posts
  • 482 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Oaken
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Monster Bash Remake (MBr) Owners Club (with Poll & Pics)”

  • I'm in on a CE 40 votes
    7%
  • I'm in on a SE 102 votes
    17%
  • I'm in on a LE 304 votes
    50%
  • I'm out for now 161 votes
    27%

(607 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #4230 Potential fix for SDTM from scoop. Posted by Reznnate (7 months ago)

Post #5928 Frankenstein switch adjustment tips Posted by MGM2 (61 days ago)

Post #6026 Links to STDM Tweaks Posted by Oaken (47 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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-1
#204 11 months ago

Dumb question? But is the "LE" really a "Limited Edition"? How many are they making? I mean if they made 1500 vs. 2500 does that really matter these days? Is LE more of a marketing thing since the manufacturers are making the games now in such a way that if you are ready/able to spend several thousand dollars on a pinball machine, why not make as many as the market demands. Do they produce "LE" models to drive that market? IE, I better buy the most expensive one, so I don't miss out. Just curious how many the MFG is making, as I've not seen on their website how many of the LE's they are making.

Don't get me wrong, I'm very seriously considering buying an LE, just trying to understand the way these games are being brought to market these days. And really, at the end of the day, I don't care if I get number 759 vs. 1029 (although I guess if you got #666 that might be interesting LOL). I don't think the actual number you get on the LE changes the value does it?

Just trying to get more information to make an informed purchase.

1 month later
#934 10 months ago

Quick question regarding total price / shipping on the MBr. I ordered an LE and put my $1000 deposit down with the expectation I'll pay the remaining $6999 when it's ready. I would like to know from you guys if any of the distributers are offering any type of cash discount, or are charging more if you pay with a credit card? I paid the original $1000 via paypal using the option that doesn't have any fees, and I expect the distributer would like me to do the same for the remaining balance, essentially making it a cash deal. I inquired about paying with my credit card and was told it would increase the price slightly. Should I expect free shipping if I'm paying cash? Just curious what you all are dealing with relating to total price, shipping costs, etc. You don't have to mention any specific distributors, but I'm just interested in what other are seeing before I part with the rest of the money I owe on my LE (whenever it eventually is ready LOL)

Thanks

1 month later
#2082 9 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Please check this link... I've made several different logos...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1THp-UwMFn_A4XMPIahoYMrmyGP8mlwNr
320x80 is pretty limiting in terms of what you can do

Thanks for sharing these!!

1 week later
#2464 8 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

wow - March? I guess I'm in the same boat. That is CRAAAZY. I'm personally not waiting as much as others are but i can see people getting pretty pissed, especially those that already paid in full.
For me, that would be literally a 3 month delays compared to what I was originally told. Damn.

Same here - I ordered mine the first week it was announced. Paid my $1000 deposit and was told I'd have it around Thanksgiving, then Christmas, now who knows when (mine is non-matching SN). At this rate, maybe I'll get it for my birthday in July. Glad I'm not really in a big hurry, but starting to loose the excitement of owning it. I'm sure it'll be worth the wait, so I continue to patiently wait.

1 month later
#4012 7 months ago

Just got word last night that my non matching LE is being delivered to my distributor today. I'll be picking it up at the Retro Jax show in Jacksonville FL next weekend. I ordered it back in October, but honestly haven't minded the wait. Kind of makes me remember what it was like when I was a kid, and would get excited as Christmas got closer. FYI, I ordered mine from The Little Shop of Games in Florida, and Marshall has been great keeping me updated on the status over the last several months. I'll post some pics once it's home.

1 week later
#4292 7 months ago

My new MBrLE is having sound issues day 1. So I've got about a dozen games on my brand new MB, and all of a sudden, the sound starts cutting in/out with a really large pop sound coming from the speaker. I've power cycled the game, tried factory reset, etc., but nothing. Turned it off for a couple of hours and then tired it again, thought the problem went away, but after playing a couple of games, it came back. I had to leave town today for work, but thought I'd see if anyone else has run into this before I call support. Here is a link to a video I took if you want to see how bad this problem is: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bFPiBkr8HK8R6gDs8

A couple of other thoughts on the handful of games I was able to play before the sound issue started:

1 - Yes, the STDM drains from the scoop are annoying. Very inconsistent but seems like about 30% of the time it just fires it STDM. I've seen other posts about this issue, so I'll have to figure out what I am going to do, so if there is a consensus on what works best I'd like to hear it before I mess with it.

2 - My pop bumpers seem like they could use some adjusting. When the ball comes through the D-I-G lanes up top, I notice some of the time it just rolls off the pop bumper, never activating it, which is a problem since you need the pops to get the mummy. When they do pop and the ball starts hitting them, they seem very strong and responsive, it just seems like the switches are not set to be sensitive enough. Anyone else having this issue? I played a game at an event over the weekend (it was an SE) and it seemed to be doing the same thing.

Otherwise the game looks/plays amazing. Hopefully the sound issue is minor?

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#4295 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Easy to do. A little tweaking and you'll be a pro at it. With the game turned off lift the playfield up and lean against the backbox. At this point wish you'd removed the balls before they go bouncing all over.
A plastic rod from the pop bumper skirt goes through the playfield and sits in a plastic spoon on a leaf blade switch.
Clean the leaf blade switch. Put a piece of paper between the leaf blades, gently hold them together and pull the paper out. Check that the pop bumper skirt moves freely. And that plastic rod is centered in the spoon on the leaf blade. You can loosen the leaf blade bracket screws to aim it better.
Now the tricky part. That plastic spoon should just be resting on the plastic rod and not pushing it. Then the lower leaf blade. Close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it. Yet vibration doesn't. It may take a tweak or two to get it right.
LTG : )

Thanks - I should have mentioned I'm familiar with how to adjust them as you have described, I was just more curious if others were having this same issue right out of the box? Personally, one of my least favorite things in the world to do is adjust pop bumper switches (even using the special tool made for adjusting switches), so I was disappointed that I already feel like I need to do this on a new in box game. Minor issue I suppose, especially considering the sound issue I reported in my previous post which makes the game currently unplayable - which is sad since I waited almost 6 months to get it, and it's already not working on it's first day in it's new home

1 week later
#4566 6 months ago

Just curious if anyone knows the logic on why the drag mech under the playfield was mounted in such a way that it is visible on the playfield? I know it was that way on the original MB, and honestly I never really noticed it one way or the other until I started inspecting my playfield. At first I got excited thinking it was some cool feature that was part of the game, but then when I raised the playfield and looked under that's when I realized it was just the drac mech. Just seems like an odd design to have the mount visible on the playfield.

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#4574 6 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The drac mech is heavy... pretty sure they were trying to ensure it doesn’t rip the game in half, or tear through those holes, using established hardware

While I do agree that in 1998 mounting it that way probably made sense, I would have thought that in this day and age there would be a way to secure it without it showing on the PF. I am glad that CGC kept everything the same as the original (well sorta, since the lighting, sound, and display is upgraded), and I guess that's why they kept the mounts showing on the PF the same, to keep it the exact same as the original.

Not really a big deal, more of a disappointment to discover it wasn't some cool feature that I'd see when I finally reached monsters of rock mode.

On an unrelated note, but adding to the invisiglass, PDI, Stern discussion, I put the Stern glass on mine, and it's amazing. Zero reflection that I can tell, no weird colors or anything. Really makes the game look incredible vs. the standard glass. I'll try and post pictures to show before / after when I get back home.

#4575 6 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks for ruining it! Not sure i noticed that before. Now I can stop seeing it!
I'm joking - well kind of. It does stick out now more than before.

Ha - I know right.... I didn't notice it at first when I started playing the game, but one day I saw them and got excited thinking it was something cool - Would have been cool if they had just done some artwork over top of them to make them blend in. Oh well, the game is still absolutely beautiful even with them there.

1 week later
#4873 6 months ago

1 - I know there have been a lot of posts/suggestions around the STDM shots out of the scoop - Was there a general consensus on what seems to work? I've seen a variety of suggestions from adding a washer to the solenoid, putting some duct tape in the scoop, changing power settings, etc. I'm still having the issue, but before I decided to try something, I was hoping to hear what seems to work most consistently allowing it to fire it to the left flipper as it should.

2 - Same question regarding STDM rolls from the upper playfield that are hitting dracs feet on the way down. Seems to be happening a fair amount on my game. Just hoping to get an updated solution from those that have fixed this as well?

Otherwise I love my game - I have an LE and after a hundred or so games, I'm seeing some dimpling, but frankly (pun intended), it doesn't bother me. Sure it was a lot of money to spend, but I bought the game to play it and expect it to show some battle scars over time. I think the quality of this game is OUTSTANDING, and despite the long delay, I'd buy another game from them.

PS - The game even looks cool when it's turned off in my game room that has black lights

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2 weeks later
#5295 5 months ago

Hanging at Universal Studios this week in Orlando and had to snap a pic of this - Ready to get home and play some more Monster Bash!!

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