Monster Bash (Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2018
Monster Bash (Limited Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2018
Monster Bash (Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Rdoyle1978.
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Quoted from DudeRegular:Pinballmap says that Carpool Bar has one. You should go play it!
Just know that the MB at Carpool is notorious in the area. It looks like it has never been shopped, is
Set up super floaty (like all games at carpool) and is very dimly lit with incandescent bulbs still. The shots are pretty well set up but not perfect. Keep in mind This will not be a good indicator of how the remake will shoot or look.
Quoted from scarybeard:I'd want code to replace 'Phantom Flip' with something else. That feature is the only dark mark on this game.
I was just having a conversation about this - the Phantom Flip is almost always setup inconsistently on location. The games get moved, aren’t level, get their data reset, all the time. The Phantom Flip is super fragile because of all the stuff involved. My game at home has had good data for Phantom Flip for a long time - maybe 6 to 8 months since I had a factory reset. It almost never misses. Seriously - it almost never misses the ramps, can hit the loops, etc.
Quoted from MrSanRamon:This game availability delay is getting to be pretty strange...seems like something got forgotten and now CGC is scrambling to recover.
It’s essentially the same game, with a topper & color display.
It has to be some issue with the topper.
I can't see CGC buying parts for a 1000 games without getting some kind of approval from the rights holders. Can't see them stupid enough to go ahead without knowing that the game is approved.
The time delay, being this long, is odd.
Robert
We may never know. The mechs aren’t very complicated, and the topper shows it’s not that hard to get sculpts done of the monsters. I’m Of the opinion it has to be some rights issue, or that Universal is holding up approvals for some reason.
If it were me, I’d replace the toys in the game with more screen-accurate versions, but maybe that’s then not a “remake”
Quoted from bigd1979:Trust me a cliffy isnt enough... i tried just cliffy on my original and it dented and started to deform quickly. Now a mantis and cliffy combo worked excellent and never had a issue..... tight fit but it worked well.
Second this. I actually just have a Mantis protector and it works awesome. If you install at the right height the hole won’t get beat up, as the ball will hit the protector consistently
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:WHAT? Is that 2nd picture even real? lol. Way too bright, but I know you're just doing this to show the possible change.
I think 25% would be perfect. I'm going to be installing mine tomorrow, so I hope those instructions are good to go by then.
When you take photos of LEDs, the camera can never capture the look as you see it in person - i bet this is way more extreme than it really looks
Man I wonder what the story is with the protector? Do the CGC games come with real Cliffys, or are they a CGC special? The thin line protector seems like it’s actually a better protector than the original one
Quoted from PtownPin:CGC does their own thing....JJP went down the same path and build shitty protectors as well....I was really hoping these would hold up, but apparently thats not the case
Aaah man that is bad news. I had a Cliffy on my original and that held up pretty well in a VERY worn out scoop. Eventually when I restored the game I went for a Mantis, and I think that is holding up well
Quoted from knockerlover:In my original MB when I had it, I added a hex post to each sling with a spotlight on the top tapped into the sling GI. It was perfect in my opinion.
That's a great idea, I may do that myself. Where approximately did you point these spotlights?
Quoted from Deez:Here's what keeps happening to mine. Do you guys have it set to higher than 6.5 degrees?[quoted image]
Mine’s an original, but it is the only game I’ve set up at over 7 degrees. It’s way more fun when shooting really fast, and the shots (creature especially) are much harder. Games are super short and fun and you’d never have that issue with the trough
Quoted from bigdaddy07:I've looked there a few times. Nothing for audio.
I have to believe its an issue in the software, since my AFMLE has outstanding audio. Like I said, I think CGC can open this up with a simple software fix. Since the audio is IMO useless with anything that's turned up below the halfway point, change the volume adjustment level so that the new low is the current halfway point. Let us crank it up!! This is one one major disappointment in the game so far. I played it last night for a while then moved over to my IMDN and it just blew MBR away in audio. For 8k the audio should e better.
Surprised to hear this - IMDN has some of the worst audio I’ve ever heard in a modern game. OT I know, but Care to share your settings?
Quoted from Higloss67:Pinball life had Cliffy’s. Got one last week
I believe PBL only stocks the regular “big” Cliffy. You want the slimline one, which you have to order from Cliffy himself. The Mantis protector works great by itself though
Quoted from Ricochet:I've an SE and I've just noticed that my monster figurines do not have "improved detail"... the mad scientist has no face detail and the bride has no color whatsoever. I will take a better pic later tonight and see if its consistent with what other people have... or don't[quoted image]
Are the pop bumpers not orange in the remakes?
Quoted from Ricochet:They are clear. The LEDs are RGB on the SE/LE... I think this is why.
Weird. I will have to check out a video. Seems like that would wreck the moon and mummy GI effects
Quoted from netman63129:I agree, the figurines are pretty similar to the original MB IMO. I would have preferred something like this...
After all, they are in a Rock Band
[quoted image]
ModFather special!! I love the wires between Frank and the Tesla coils
Speaking of which ... where the hell are all the mods for this game?! For example, I would love to see Igor moving back and forth, as was originally intended.
Quoted from mrfp:I am having issues with both ramps, although right ramp is worse. Curious to hear what they say.
Right ramp needs to be adjusted EXACTLY perfect to avoid fly outs. If you unscrew it a bit, you
Will see it has some play. My original MB used to do this as well. Also the clear plastic in the very rear of the game (kind of in front of the wolf man, with the posts on it) should be positioned a little bit over the ramp to avoid fly outs. The ball has a tendency to whip around the curve, and since that long spider plastic isn’t anchored, the only thing stopping the ball is that weird shaped clear plastic.
I can’t say for sure whether you also need to dial down the flippers, but it seems like CGC should have that down exactly, if the game is suppose to play identical to an original.
Quoted from Ricochet:Yup. I set out to buy JJP POTC. Then I played it. Now ... it’s a beautiful game ... seriously... it’s an amazingly beautiful product. It’s a very complex game ... and probably an awesome game for a really good pinball player. I’m not that good... admittedly. So I found JJP POTC difficult to enjoy. I was also not impressed by the soundtrack of POTC... it just wasn’t great to me.. I felt like it should have been more impactful for a Pirates themed pin. This could entirely be because I wasn’t able to progress very far in the game... but it wasn’t doing it for me. It’s also a very expensive machine. When the cost begins to exceed 8K... it starts to become a bit more of a difficult purchase.
Enter Monster Bash... a game that is just fun... no matter how good (or not) you are. So bang for the buck... the value is there for me. Pirates really frustrated me and I didn’t want to buy a new pin, spend all that cash and have it frustrate me right out of the box. So MB fit me better all around. Maybe one day when I get better ... I can appreciate POTC... but for now, MB is just perfect.
This is bang on the money for the stuff you want to consider. MB is really fun, immediately out of the box - but it is indeed also very shallow. You need a game like that in a collection though. Probably not if it’s your only game, but you can’t have every pin be an hour-long slog. IMO your best bet right now is to go for MBr, keep it a year or so, then sell it and buy a POTC when the code has been brought up to the level of Hobbit (which is now out of this world good, and better balanced for new players)
Quoted from pintechev:I bent the right rail out just a snug and it’s much less frequent now. When it hits his feet, it’s often going to the left flipper, so, while it might not be exactly as Gomez designed, it’s not draining here.
Would be good to hear from original owners if this happened. I can’t see how it wouldn’t. A straight shot down should avoid Frank, but if it’s bouncing off the rail, there’s no way that I can to completely avoid it.
For what it's worth, my original MB also does this - I have gotten to be a master nudger when the ball circles the right side. it never seems to hug the ball guide the way it seems to be intended. But fear not! I just put up a 500M game today. Personal record baby!
Quoted from elf70:While I'm at it - Any thoughts on this ball trap? 3 times now.. wedged between the wall and the rail above.
[quoted image]
that should obviously not be happening. the ramp isn't quite high up enough - I would add another washer under the nut, or put in a slightly higher post. Man that sucks!
Im curious how well Frank registers hits - I have an original MB but seem to have about 50% of shots to Frank not register. The switch is working fine, I think it may be alignment-related, but I'm not sure whether or not that's just normal. Does Frank generally register most shots on the new games? thx!
Quoted from Concretehardt:Keep playing, below is straight from the tech at CGC...
“When the customer gets their game, it usually takes 3-4 games before the phantom flip will start working . And it learns left and right separately, so often the left or right will start working before the other side.”
It's way more than 3-4 games. you have to *make* the shots consistently over more like 20 games. And even then it really takes a while to get properly dialed in. The good news is it's always learning, so it gets better over time. As long as everything is working (i.e. switches, optos and the sensors not blocked or failing or whatever) it is pretty accurate. Not as accurate as "Thing Flips", but that was only for one shot. This makes 3-4 on each side
Quoted from tomtest:I put it in mine and it made a huge difference with the reflection, I think it's a must have, I lowered the translite intensity also.
absolutely is
Quoted from jbug:Let us know how you like Houdini. Would you keep the game in the long run? I considered Houdini also but after watching gameplay videos and seeing many shots not making the ramps, I was turned off. Another thing (if I'm correct) is having to hit shots in a particular order. The odds of doing that for someone with basic skills are not good and would contribute to someone walking away after a couple of games. Like, the theme very much though.
Houdini couldn't be more different from MB, but it is absolutely just as fun. MB is my go-to game for a quick one (mine is also set up super fast and no ball save, so games can be QUICK!), and Houdini is much more of a longer game. There is just *so* much to do in it, it can get overwhelming. It has like 14 different modes between the Stage tricks and the movie modes, plus a huge number of hurry-ups, several multiballs, and these combos which grow progressively harder. That's where you really have to do things in a certain order.
The ramp shot is also earlier than on most other games (higher on the flipper), so you really have to power it up there, but it is easily makeable.
There's a ton of complaining about the "tight shots" but IMDN has shots which are just as tight (e.g. left ramp!) and no one's complaining about that. Visually I think the game can get in your head, but once you've spent some time on it, you realize it's no different than any other game from that perspective. Anyway, there's a lot of complaining about the shot geometry, but it's basically just whining because it's not set up identially to a fan layout Bally game. There's some stuff that could be better - it's kind of "slow" as far as the software (meaning load times can be noticeable on rare occasions), and the graphics are more "Stern Aerosmith" than "JJP Pirates", but the game itself is really fun.
Quoted from dts:I've been tracking the Munsters thread and while it looks fun, reviews are saying that it is too easy. Not sure I understand why more new buyers aren't going over to MBr instead... I've played the LE quite a bit now, and it is just great!
Keep in mind that's what most people say about MB. It blows my mind that there's so much complaining about Houdini being hard and the shots "too tight" and a game like Munsters is "too easy"
Quoted from PinballCoug:Mine goes to the right flipper unless it hits Dracs feet sticking out under the coffin. When Drac kicks it it'll go SDTM.
Has anybody looked into whether or not this is fixable? The ball hits Drac's feet on mine too, after I restored it, but it did not do it before. I'm stumped on how to fix it though
Quoted from Ricochet:I’ve never had this happen. Does this happen at any velocity... or is it when it’s kind of a weak roll out of the loop?
It’s very frequent, but I am pretty sure the majority of the time it’s with a weak(er) roll. If I get a good shot in the orbit is very smooth, but coming back off the pops especially it always hits Drac’s feet or the top of the sling
Quoted from cheshirefilms:So the most likely reality is- they overshot demand on the CE and SE, that's why they're available, and they haven't sourced enough playfields to keep up with the LE. Had they "guessed right" on demand across the board, all 3 versions would be hard to get, and thered be more LEs in owners hands by today. #Facts
Is the LE playfield different somehow? I thought they were all the same
Quoted from Cyrus:Apologies if this is mentioned/buried somewhere in the 100's of postings on this thread, (I did a search but did not find a reference) but I was really happy with the MB pin blades I got for my SE. They are made by a guy in England who on Pinside is known as SillyOldElf. Colors are well blended and his scenes correspond with the sections of the PF. We put these on last night and they are gorgeous. He ships from England so some extra time needed for it to arrive, but I think totally worth the wait. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1073-sillyoldelf-mods. My photos don't do the blades justice, but here is an idea of what they look like. If you have NEVER put blades on before, do yourself a favor and watch some of the youtube videos. We prefer the soapy water in a spray bottle method.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
These blades have been on my mint original MB for a long time now; they look like they shipped with the game. Absolutely outstanding attention to detail and colour; a PERFECT match to the art, which is not always the case with these type of blades.
sillyoldelf has also recently
Made them longer so they completely fit the side area of the game. Day 1 purchase. And he ships Fast!
Quoted from LoserKid_Pinball:I received my LE last Thursday and has been playing amazingly! I'm very impressed with the quality of the machine and couldn't be happier.
I have 2 complaints. The first complaint is the same issue that Arcade is having. The ball will come out of the shooter lane and instead of going into to pops, it rejects. Can't tell if it is a gate issue but it has only happened 4 or 5 times out of the 100+ games my family put on it this weekend so it's hard to pinpoint BUT I've already talked to CGC and they are on top of it.
Last complaint is kind of a stupid one but I wish a Monster Bash key fob came with the pinball machine. I know it is really dumb but I like having a key fob from the specific pin for the key to tell the difference between my keys to my pins. I wouldn't mind so much if I could just buy a key fob online but apparently they are non existent for Monster Bash
Overall not only am I impressed with Monster Bash and it's quality but I'm impressed with CGC as well!
they are definitely out there. I’ve bought 2 at shows and have at least 2 additional “Universal Monsters” fobs. Let me see if I can find the other one..
Quoted from GCS2000:Is that really possible? My loves the artwork for the sides more than the mirror blades but wants the LE edition that we have on order for all the other things.
They are really that good
Quoted from drummermike:Anyone know where the monster table wood overlay mod went?
Mezelmods. I will put up a review when I receive it tomorrow or thurs.
Quoted from Classicgames99:I installed the plasma disc and the side blade decals. I think they look great
[quoted image]
Just get some Invisiglass or PDI on there and you're done!
Quoted from Nytewatch33:So I'm having second thoughts again. First of all, I have an LE on order (non matched). I'm getting very tired of waiting as I have room for only 1 pin in my house and this delay has meant I have nothing for months. Prior to this I had a WOZ (which was definitely fun, but I was never all that crazy about the theme). I have always loved the call outs and campiness of MB, but the other day I went and played one on site, but at the same time I played a Hobbit and a Pirates of the Caribbean, and I have to say while the MBr is gorgeous in it's own way and if I had several pins I wouldn't have many doubts - I'm starting to wonder if it will get old quickly being my only pin.
If you were me (and particularly for those that own either The hobbit or Pirates) would you choose one of those pins instead as your only pin? There are so many modes on both that could keep me occupied for a long time. But I also know my wife loves to bash the ball around without really paying attention to the rules. Still, this is 90% for me, and she will only play occasionally. Thoughts?
I’d say go for Pirates except that I don’t have a ton of time on one, but it is feature packed and lots of good shots. Hobbit is a KNOWN amazing, amazing pin right now. So you probably couldn’t go wrong. IMO MBr would be a tough one to last long in a 1-pin collection. But there’s no question it’s an awesome game in its own right, especially if you set it up super fast and hard, no ball save
Quoted from fxdwg:please share, I didn't know these existed. I did a search and found Lyman's Lament, https://www.ign.com/wikis/pinball-cheats/Monster_Bash_Cheats not sure if that works on the remake or not... going to try here in a few.
edit: just tested... it works. pretty cool. now I want more!!
You can also get that mode started by hitting the scoop 43 or 45 times in a game!
Does anyone know if the replacement parts are being sold yet? I am looking for a couple of things under the PF, prox boards for example
Quoted from LTG:Same driver board as AFMR. Which has a real knocker, plugged into Knock J115.
There isn't anything plugged into your Knock J115. And it probably isn't supported in software. Since it has the audio KNOCK.
LTG : )
It is actually supported by software in the original games, so you could hook up a physical knocker; I imagine it would work in the remakes too
Quoted from Kneissl:Any idea if the coil test let you fire it? The version in mbr skips over the knocker coil.
There is a setting in adjustments somewhere that turns it on and off
Quoted from Bublehead:Has anyone toggled the knocker adjustment and tried the coil test in both configurations? Does it skip over pausing and firing the coil or does it pause and just not fire the coil? I know the WPC menu system has worked like this is the past for adjustments, one adjustment is not made available until another adjestment is set to enabled. Seems Lyman would be smart enough to skip the unused coil if the default knocker sound is enabled. Specifically just to keep the “clack” count rhythm... when a tech starts the coil test on free run, there is a cadence as each coil is fired that the tech listens to. If he DIDN’T skip pausing for the knocker coil during the coil test, techs would be confused. This is the kind of level of programming detail that lets me know just exactly why Lyman’s code is more robust. Even when taking money out of the BOM, I think leaving it in the code so ops can add the knocker in later is Lyman saying, “OK, but players are going to want a real knocker...”
The remakes just emulate the exact same code, so it should work identically
I was skeptical of pinstadium for quite a while - but I just bought another WOZ, and what game is darker than WOZ? it looks spectacular. The pinstadium rails are kind of annoying but I’m not pulling the PF regularly so NBD.
Just to see, I installed them into my MB to see what it was like.. looks like ass. not every game needs/wants it, but that doesn’t make pinstadium a bad product. YMMV
I do have to say that MB looks astonishing after a full LED overhaul (mines an original). Took me all day but man it was worth it.
You may also have to slightly bend the whole arm Drac is on. Those screws allow some play on purpose so he will move a bit and trigger the switch. Eventually he will get back into that position. Slightly bending the arm forward or back may help. I just did this yesterday and MAJOR difference. Tiny change
You should also make sure he’s not rubbing up against the coffin when he comes out - this can lead to him not going all the way back in when it’s time to go back to sleep. Finally, his feet can drag on the PF but they should not - watch him closely in test mode for any “shuddering” you see
Quoted from SkaterVet:Anyone know the best place to buy Invisiglass? Is there a place that gives you a price break on more than one sheet?
Pinballstar does deals if you pick up at a show they are attending, and you order beforehand. It's not a huge discount but it's something
There's always the Stern glass, which isn't quite as good but still rejects a lot of reflection. I have not used PDI/Roman glass but that is supposed to be the best
Quoted from Bublehead:I read somewhere they originally cut off Drac’s feet on OG MB’s to solve this SDTM off the feet problem... anyone able to confirm that? Or is that an oft retold myth?
That happened before the game started shipping, prototyping phase. There used to be a couple pictures George Gomez
Had posted online but they appear to be gone
Quoted from drummermike:I got 4 sheets from JJP. They shipped 2 and I picked up 2 at their factory. I have Magicglass on my Houdini. The Invisiglass and Magicglass are almost identical. They are both great.
Invisiglass and Magic glass from AP look like they could be from the same supplier (I am totally guessing). Stern glass has a slight purple hue to it, and does not reject light as well as the other two, but it still looks good. It’s better than a perfectly cleaned piece of regular glass but not $250 better. Could be just where I have it in the room I suppose.
Quoted from drummermike:I got 4 sheets from JJP. They shipped 2 and I picked up 2 at their factory. I have Magicglass on my Houdini. The Invisiglass and Magicglass are almost identical. They are both great.
Invisiglass and Magic glass from AP look like they could be from the same supplier (I am totally guessing). Stern glass has a slight purple hue to it, and does not reject light as well as the other two, but it still looks good. It’s better than a perfectly cleaned piece of regular glass but not $250 better. Could be just where I have it in the room I suppose.
Quoted from SkaterVet:I just paid in full for my non-matching LE and am getting all set for its arrival. Does anyone know anything about the HD Glass Marco sells for $246 (includes delivery)? They claim: HD glass blocks 99% of UltraViolet light rays that deteriorate playfield plastics and artwork. Reflects less than 1% of ambient light for clearest possible playfield viewing.
Super neutral optical coating allows true color transmission through glass.
Also I believe the Marco glass is the same as the Stern stuff
Quoted from drummermike:The Invisiglass has a more green color. The Magicglass has a lighter less pronounced green hue when you look at the image of the overhead lights. They are different.
Different batches? 
Quoted from GCS2000:Looking to add some LED Britebuttons to my LE when it arrives - what is everyone's opinion on color choice?
Original buttons were yellow. I see lots of redone OG games with blue. I think purple also works.
As I look at side art of the LE (with the blue trim) I am also thinking the green ones might be a solid choice as well.
TIA
Mine are translucent purple
Quoted from shock_me:Has anyone else experienced a lot of rejects on the Brides ramp? Mine with a good flip will loop behind the Bride, and stop at the apex of the wire ramp, and roll back down. Everything seems to be adjusted right back there. Frustrating.
Something is definitely wrong there - I echo the suggestion to increase the pitch. Mine is at 7.2 which might be a good starting point
Quoted from shock_me:Pitch increased to 7 degrees all good now thanks guys. Everything works great now, and I'm loving the Phantom Flip now that the game seems to have dialled it in! One small issue though. The domed lamp on top of the Creature Feature mode lamp board never lights. Is this GI for Frank? There doesn't seem to be a flasher test associated with it so I'm assuming GI. Anyway I checked wiring and connections still no joy. What should the voltage be at this socket?
It’s GI yes. It should be on pretty much all the time, except for effects where the GI dims.
I’m not sure where it’s attached to on the remakes but the original has its own dedicated plug. Its regular AC on originals, 6.3V lamp
Quoted from mjannusch:I paid my deposit for a non-matching LE like 5 minutes after ordering opened on 10/19/18, and haven't heard a single word about it since then. So yeah, that's a little frustrating but I'm holding out that it'll get here soon now that non-matching ones are getting in people's hands.
You guys crack me up. I waited 8 months on preorder for Houdini!
Quoted from TheLaw:Thats maybe the saddest story I've heard in awHile
Haha That was the easiest softball ever... didn't even take 1 whole
Minute!
Quoted from hollywood:8 months?! Shoot, that’s a brief nap compared to wait on the MMRLE!
hahaha, you're right!
Quoted from playernumber4:I wonder if some creative pinball game owner with the right tools at his shop could make an angled shim of some sort to put on the side of the scoop to deflect the ball at a slightly different angle? It would not take much, and it would be easy to stick it on. Its a good chance for someone to make a couple of bucks towards his pinball habit too!
Can you post a picture? It may not be the scoop
Quoted from cscmtp:Talk about a letdown huh? This pin on the other hand is actually fun and beautiful (Hobbit is beautiful...and that's it)
Played code from last month? It’s a whole lot more
Quoted from Who-Dey:You're welcome. That is just a piece of ball dead drop foam that i stuck in there on my GB game because it was kicking out SDTM of my flippers and now it kicks the ball out to the right flipper like money every time. Theres probably some kind of foam similar to that at hardware stores i would assume. I got that at pinbits.com i believe a long time ago. Good luck.
It’s hard to find in the same density and thickness that Pinbits sells - id order from there if it’s still available
Quoted from Diospinball:Well... Just got Monsters of Rock... Settings are not really that nerfed. I do have ball save timer on. Only because I tend to get houseballed due to dracula's dang feet.
Going to see if I can adjust that better. I did adjust it a bit like CGC suggested... But, I think maybe if I increase the pitch on my machine it'll make the game faster and so less likely to hit his feet, so in a sense, more predictable...
I think I'll try to also lower flipper strength one or two more notches below.
Anyway, my current settings also are 60 million extra ball, and then another at 120 million and another at 180 and another at 240. I like these rewards as you still need to have a good game to reach the threshold... In fact I normally get Monster bash at around 45-50 million mark. So its not like an extra ball helps me get to the first wizard mode. And again it just for me keeps the games fun and attainable.
Lastly besides points what should I shoot for now. Lymans lament???
Try to get the 666 bonus. Start all monster modes except Frank, then hit the Frank ramp. It’s a tiny little animation but big points. Lyman’s is really hard to hit from a practical standpoint. IMO set the game up on hard, no ball save. 7+ pitch
If it’s hitting Drac’s feet just bend back (or forward) the bracket arm. It’s a very small spot where his feet hit the ball. Or bend the outer orbit ballguide just a tad further in toward the middle. You may need a screwdriver for that
Quoted from PtownPin:My play field has part of the 'M' missing as well...not sure if this is normal or not? mine doesn't have any other issues....
It is not like that on the original, but perhaps all the CGC games are like that.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:7.2 on mine for the win. Go no lower than 7. A few may disagree but this is a game that can take bash airballs so I'd say 7 minimum to keep that down a bit.
As for left ramp- play better. Lol
Right orbit should return to flipper but given it's coming from the pop bumper lottery there's no total guarantee.
Agree with all this 100%
Quoted from Bublehead:I remember hazily there being an issue with how deep the pocket was the eddy sensor was mounted in, which affects the ability for the eddy sensor to sense the ball passing over it so it never gets the final input needed to trigger the flip, so the ball rolls off the flipper and drains. But that was a memory of discussing this on RGP about the original MB back in the long long ago. Seems to me the fix was getting the eddy sensor physically closer to the actual ball when it passes by it. Not sure anymore of my memory... I just turned way effing old Friday.
This is correct. The sensors are just held in with little clips under the PF - they can bend and work themselves out. Jam the eddy sensor up in tight, as close to the ball as possible - and crank the clip screw in tight as well. If that doesn’t do the trick, Underscrew the clip and slightly bend It to give it a bit more force, then screw it in
Repositioned Dracula inadvertently while installing new LEDs.. now I’m getting the ball hitting his feet! looking to move the ball guide a bit inward to address this. Should I bend it or try to reposition it by unscrewing ? (Is there even room for adjustment in the guide slot?)
Quoted from delt31:dumb question but does Franks ramp get used for more than starting and restarting frank MB? I love that shot so hopefully yes?
Yes, it’s also used in Monster Mosh Pit
... lol ok noted already about 50 times
Quoted from bigdaddy07:You're on the right track. The only thing I wish the CGC topper had is the other band members. Aside from that it kicks ass. I want to see the complete band.
Having trouble finding Dracula for less than $100.. which sucks because I already have his guitar!
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Gryszzz:Sumbitch that axe is NASTY Rob. Wonder about the tonal quality esp low end you just adjust your eq for that?
Oh yeah. added a Behringer BOD400 specifically for that issue
Quoted from jbug:Did you come across this: amazon.com link »
Drac is about 7 inches high. Only one left at Amazon. [quoted image]
Yeah I did - and there’s one that is also 7” that looks quite a bit like Drac on the playfield - I’m going back and forth between getting that one or the actual Bela Lugosi one that matches the rest of the crew
Quoted from ChiroCop:My Frankie spotlight only illuminates (flashes) when his table brings him to a standing position for multi ball. Is this normal? Seems it should turn on more often.
did you get a response on this? I thought that spotlight was GI
Quoted from jbug:Are the joints on the arm adjustable on this one?
They're not - plus the figure is only 7" and despite me liking his face for MB better, he doesn't match the other figures. I finally struck a deal for $75 (ugh) for the Bela Lugosi one. Ridiculous, but the figures are 20 years old, so that's what I get... Too bad Universal is blowing it so hard on their monster universe right now.
Quoted from ChiroCop:Thanks to Mezel Mods, Frank has a comfy table.
[quoted image]
I've had one installed for a couple weeks. It is MONEY. It makes the game look outstanding. Fits both original and remakes (which are different!). Get this, the blue trough light, and maybe the flasher covers, and you are good to go.
Quoted from delt31:I put a LED strip (5 bucks) that is hooked up to a couple of alligators that I've attached to the coin door lights. Works perfect. [quoted image]
Yep, that's what I'm talking about! I replaced the GI lights with the brightest LED Comet sells, and the LED strip tied in to the GI.
Same Difference -
Looks amazing!
Quoted from shock_me:Same here and mine just trickles out. Maybe the original does this too?
Yes, it comes out smoothly, not nearly as strong as the scoop kick
Quoted from Tradesman:Those look very cool and accurate! Can't wait to see the finished product!
me too!! Haha. I already modeled the amps, but I am printing some stuff for a costume for my son, so those need to wait. Then I need to print that and need to add a stage riser for the drums... then I will start building the harness to tie the lights in
Quoted from evh347:I love the collection and the fact that its all six 'monsters' (no disrespect)...but how much does that cost to compile in comparison to just ponying up for the LE which comes w/ an official topper w/ interactive lights?
still WAY less than the topper since this is an original MB and I had most of these guys already... but not about that anyway, I just wanted to build it! This way I can light it however I want too
Quoted from drummermike:That is fantastic! Do I see Bela Lugosi Igor in the back?
Ygor! He will be next to the Amps, as in the. backglass
Quoted from drummermike:I must have Young Frankenstein on the Brain!
That would be Eye-gor! Walk this way!
I found Ygor loose with another set of figures so I figured I’d throw him in. I have the Son of Frankenstein monster somewhere but he has that fuzzy wool outfit so I went with the classic suit jacket original
Have to paint Drac’s guitar and make a strap for the Mummy’s pharaoh bass tonight!
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:Had my MBR LE A few days and I'm noticing that the ball goes STTM on right orbit 50% of the time. Any ideas of what I should do to fix this? Thinking of loosening the screws and pushing out the wall a bit if I can. I think it's hitting Drac's feet as it comes down. This can't be normal. Should the ball be hitting the left or right flipper when it comes from right orbit?
It’s Drac’s feet, and it is pretty normal. You can adjust the bracket slightly under the PF (bend it) or bend the ball guide inward a tiny bit. The ball usually doesn’t come off the ball guide with enough velocity to maintain a Straight Line, so it curves out and hits his feet.
The other thing you can do is slightly raise the right front leg a turn or two (doesn’t have to be much)
The game was designed with an additional tiny ball guide in the middle of the wolfman’s head on that right side, but they removed it in production.
Quoted from GCS2000:I agree about the raising the leg. Before I leveled my game we really weren't having an issue now just about every time the ball comes around it hits Drac's feet and goes SDTM (at least 90%) its to the point where the family doesn't want to play. I have bent the bracket and tried other things with only temporary relief. Guess I will change the levelness of the game so we can get back to playing. Its that or I am cutting his damn feet off!
Unfortunately, that doesn’t really help either...
It doesn’t take much to change the behavior, only turn the leveler a couple times at first. And you have to try off an initial plunge a -lot- since it get randomed by the bumpers. Then make sure it comes around at a faster velocity (ie like in full moon), which it still should no problem.
FYI my game is at about 7.1/7.2
Quoted from ChiroCop:1.) How much is it?
2.) Where do I get it?
$350 from pinball decals, $300 from JJP (“Invisiglass”), $260 I think from Stern and pinballlife
In order of apparent preferredness/quality
Quoted from Johncare07:Has anyone added a LED strip to their trough? I know there is a MOD that has sequencing with the RGB of the GI, but I was wondering if anyone has done it on their own for less? I think that mod runs $40?
Anyone try the Comets like in my pic? Will those work?
[quoted image]
This and the LerMods equivalent are fantastic. The RGb controlled one is great in concept but is kinda lost in the light shows - one that’s clipped to the GI just shuts off, which IMO is better
Quoted from Bublehead:Once adjusted correctly, I think the lever action lockbar is faster and more convienient, and I have been using the same ones for years. The new design is cost reduction imo, and by that definition, of lesser quality and less ease of use. Ymmv.
Same here -i hate the new Stern lockbars.
they do a good job of locking the glass down (until QC starts to be a problem), but they are a huge PITA to get on and off
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Yikes. Side note- here's the research on the PDI vs. Invisiglass glass performance differences from Pinball News. An actual test study, not opinions.
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/glass/index.html
This is very interesting - I finally got some PDI glass
To compare to my Invisiglass and Stern glass, and I happened to do the direct reflection test (test 2) in this study - and my experience was absolutely not the results reflected in this study. The Stern glass had the worst anti-reflective
Properties, but Invisiglass rejected the LED light source (a flashlight) very well.
I have a neon light above the game on the end of the lineup, and when the light is on, games with regular glass are unplayable.
Stern glass is better and you
can actually see the ball, but Invisiglass and PDI were like the light wasn't even there. You
can see sort of like A "shadow" of It, but it's pretty remarkable.
Quoted from Diospinball:Well, one problem that I do have. Is the glass starts to slide down immediately and I have to hold it up with one hand. Always pressing it up as it just keeps sliding down. Won't stay put. Pitch is only 6.5... I don't have that problem with any of my other machines. I generally have enough time to put the bar on before it starts to slide. Not with this one. It starts to slide right away.
You can wrap a piece of electrical tape vertically along one or both sides of the glass; just enough so that it goes in the rail but isn’t visible outside. You don’t even need much; put it near the top and the glass won’t slide any more
Quoted from PtownPin:I had the same experience in my setting....my point is I don't think PDI is worth the extra $ One can't go wrong with either product....that being said maybe we don't have sophisticated eye balls
How dare you question my eyeballs!!
Totally agree. But even if (especially if!) our eyes aren’t good enough to discern the difference, the savings is worth it
Quoted from LTG:I had to search. Your picture of the driver board has an unused spot for a knocker.
I'd check with the CGC engineers to see if one can be hooked up there ? As I am now confused. Maybe the coin meter in tests fires it since coin meter isn't used on USA games ?
LTG : )
The original games had/have a 2-wire Molex connector just hanging there in the upper left hand corner - connect ‘Er up and disable the Knocker Sound (I cant quite think of the right term in the menu) and Bob’s your Uncle
Quoted from PtownPin:I've heard rumors of that sale, but have never seen it....All my Invisiglass has been $320 shipped....PDI distributor charges an arm and a leg for shipping....
... and everything else
Quoted from CKrueger:I like Stern's design. It's simple, doesn't need adjustment, and you can put the lockdown bar fully in-place without moving the spring-loaded lever.
30 years from now if people are trying to refurb a Ghostbusters, a trip to the hardware store will be all that's required to seat its lockdown bar properly.
Fair point - all true. But I still don’t like it
Quoted from Oaken:Non-matched, deposit only at end of November guy here. Was just told I should be in the next batch (not this week)...so, I am hoping folks like bubbles there are about to get some very good news.
My first machine. Given recent discussions I am all terrified about my lockdown bar. Should be interesting.
LOL don’t worry! It will come! The lockdown bar has been grossly over exaggerated !
Quoted from Bublehead:Ok, I had a personal talk with @cgc-ryan this morning, and I want to thank him, @cgc_dougs, and CGC for reaching out (again) to us MBrLE waitees. Quality. It’s all about the quality. They have a reputation for it, for delivering it, and they are trying to maintain it. And, he said screen printing for a collectors market is the hardest part of pinball.
He shared the issues they are having and the reason why 17 screens, 11 spot colors and lack of availability of qualified screen printers (I read this as someone who has dragged a squeegee for a living for 10+ years and isn’t just a t-shirt jockey) has really put a wrench in the cogs.
These are old school screened playfields, they are using the best material, the best personel they can find, and they are working them as hard as you could reasonably ask them to. (50 hours a week!)
I asked him if we could opt for a lesser grade playfield, like send me pictures and let me decide if it is “good enough” for me, he said he would rather not ship out a playfield that doesnt meet their standards of quality, so no. He said they want it to be as good as it gets, right out of the box, not after shipping you a drop in replacement playfield for a loss. Now that was the statement that changed my mind to continue to wait, because I was litterally offering to let him off the hook, and he jumped right back on it like a ravenous dog on raw meat. I respect that.
The update he gave was pretty brutal, his reject rate is astronomical, and he said if he was being honest, my wait is not over, but the light at the end of the tunnel is not the on-coming train, but just my MBrLE a little ways off in the delivery distance.
Looking forward to a pint with Ryan at TPF. BH
Thanks for the update. This is great on CGC’s part to want to keep their quality level consistently high - it’s tough to maintain. I can only imagine MBr was an even bigger hit than AFMR and MMr, which is why they are having such major supply problems
Quoted from Diospinball:Man. That is looking cool...
I never really liked toppers. Until I saw MBr LE topper. And then when I got it and running in my house. I totally have the topper fever. I think I will be creating a custom topper for all my pins. I did just buy one for my maiden... But, I might buy the Aces High one as well.
I thought they were unnecessary... And they are... But, they're cool and they can add a nice light show.
Can't wait to see your finished product. I hope you might consider putting up a tutorial. As I don't see a lot of those online. And I think it could be a fun source of modding. As I don't think I want to do full restorations or rethemes... But, making a topper might be more my speed.
Hey thanks! I don’t normally go crazy like this but I’m super into the Universal monsters, and mostly this is just an excuse to have a little hands-on project going at the house.
I wanted an excuse to get into 3D modelling, so between this and my kid’s Halloween /comic-con costume (see photo), we’ve been busy!
image (resized).jpgQuoted from MERGatroid:Hello everyone. Looking for some thoughts about weather to get a munsterspro or monster bash so. Seeing people selling Munster pro and le in 1 week. I have a aerosmith pro I love and looking to add to my collection. I love old horror movies. I was a little kid when munsters came out. So both are great themes to me.
There are always people who buy, and then 5 months later when the game arrives things come up, so the game goes up for sale. MB has had a *lot* longer to be proven out as a classic game. It's not super deep, but it's really fun. Munsters has a lot more going on as far as modern pinball design, but only time will tell if it stands as a classic game. IMO go for MB but it's possible Munsters some day may have some updates which really make it shine
Quoted from Tsskinne:Anyone else had the ball get stuck behind the CFTBL saucer? I went to check on my game on location last night and I thought I had remedied this issue before but man the ball was really wedged in there. Almost wondering if I should place something in that space so that another ball can't get into the area.
This can mean that the wire ball guide is not pounded in deep enough, it’s leaning to the inside, or you just have bad luck on the alignment 
Buy a blue square rubber and stick it in there on top of the other one; it doesn’t affect the runoff area at all, and it’s easy to remove if you ever for some reason want to do so.
Quoted from arcademojo:LOL Now WTF!!!!!
Did a quick check on tracking this morning to see if they updated delivery.
Yeah they did. Now it's in Lake Katrine NY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 5 hours away.
[quoted image]
Weird, yes, but not unusual - it’s on a Biiiiiig truck and sometimes schedules don’t line up. There must be something else in that shipment that got paid to be there ASAP
Quoted from NeilMcRae:anyone had a a problem with the ball getting stuck under the plastics near creature? Played the game in cidercade last night and the ball kept getting stuck up there. gave up in the end, but the LE is so super shiny- very impressed.
Check literally 1 page back
Quoted from BryanBPH:Just curious if anyone knows the logic on why the drag mech under the playfield was mounted in such a way that it is visible on the playfield? I know it was that way on the original MB, and honestly I never really noticed it one way or the other until I started inspecting my playfield. At first I got excited thinking it was some cool feature that was part of the game, but then when I raised the playfield and looked under that's when I realized it was just the drac mech. Just seems like an odd design to have the mount visible on the playfield.
[quoted image]
The drac mech is heavy... pretty sure they were trying to ensure it doesn’t rip the game in half, or tear through those holes, using established hardware
Quoted from Johncare07:UPDATE!!!!
NOT SOLVED. It worked for a game or two and reverted to the old problem. Once I hear back on next steps I’ll post again.
Do your yellow buttons have screws in them, that are touching the flipper opto interruptor? That's the typical way to resolve this
Quoted from GCS2000:Raise your right side front leveler a bit so that the ball tends to lean left coming out the scoop and off Drac's feet. I found this alleviated 90+% of my SDTMs. Yes the game will now be just a hair out of level but I'll take it. Still get an SDTM every so often but not much.
It also helps to raise the rear right leg a turn or two; that puts both out of level, but not as much of each as if you're doing it on only one leg. You won't notice the difference in playing
Quoted from PinballCoug:Hitting Dracs feet was mentioned as an original problem, but don't recall the same mentioned regarding the scoop eject.
Nope, this is specific to the remakes
Quoted from sgorsuch:I just had a long game with 3 Monster Bashes and 1 Monsters of Rock. Are the Monster Bash and Monsters of Rock champions scores cumulative or just the best score during the particular mode?
I probably did not ask this correctly , but trying to find out if the three Monster Bash scores added were added together.
Best score during the mode. If you earn all instruments before starting a multiball, you’ll get “Bash before Rock” and they are treated separately
Quoted from cheshirefilms:Or maybe not. MB might be the most difficult playfield to screen of all time. It's all easier and more efficient from here..
How could that possibly be? There’s tons of blank “blue” space on the PF and the characters aren’t that complex. (Guessing) I don’t think it even used that many colors
Quoted from cheshirefilms:I forgot the exact number but the layers in the screening process on MB is by far the most of any modern era pin.
The monsters all next to each other on the lower playfield for one, all colored very differently..
If they wanted to do lower quality digital printing, it wouldn't matter-
But the richness of the screen print product, its CGC's calling card-
The last standing manufacturer that makes PFs the old fashioned way..
No kidding? That is kinda cool, actually. Not for CPR, I guess. I’m still waiting to see the CPR digital print option. Hopefully they can get the high quality people are looking for.
Quoted from cmelbye:I can't speak for CGC but I know when you buy a classicplayfieldreproductions playfield they tell you specifically to let it cure for 30-45 days before playing on it due to the number of clear coats. CGC's reject rate on limited playfields (if true) means there is NO WAY they have cured for any length of time. That by itself is cause for concern.
I can’t speak about what CGC does for their process, but this is a very very good idea. Clear takes a long time to fully cure, even when it feels hard on the surface, that’s just the very top layer of molecules - the underlying layers are still not hardened. This applies to every coat they lay down. If you play on it too early, those dimples will be pushed into the clear layer forever, vs if you wait, you see far less.
Quoted from Oaken:Others have mentioned putting in a string of LEDs in the trough. If you try that, let me know how it goes.
Major, major improvement. Small cost, super easy install.
Quoted from Monk:My Dracula isn’t registering hits. I haven’t played with it yet, but does anyone know how adjust the Dracula?
He’s attached to the arm with two tiny little screws in the cape. I’d remove him then check the switch behind him. Make sure he has play when You reattach him. You do need to hit him with a fairly direct shot to register
Quoted from zpinman370:I had a PM from one other fellow and also some feedback on the burrs that are on some of the steel trim on the ramps, scoop etc. What I did do, is file and sand down the burrs that I could see and feel after running my fingers around all the metal surfaces. Beyond that I did find that if you stick your finger in the front of the scoop there are 2 screws that actually protrude into the scoop maybe an 1/8" or so. Not sure if the ball is hitting these on the way in or out but I did put a small piece of duct tape over them to cushion the ball a bit. Other solution is to pull the screws and get shorter ones but with all the things people were saying about the SDTM's coming from the scoop didn't want to mess with it. Mine shoots great to the left flipper as it is now. My playfield is still dimpling like crazy (IMO) so will see how that evens out over time. Still, all in all, a great game, but these issues do take away from it a bit being the LE was supposed to be the cream of the crop. This was a game I looked forward to for a long time and will just play the heck out of it anyway. I am already thinking to order a replacement playfield to swap out in a few years as I don't see this one lasting with the wear it has after only 50 games.
Worth mentioning is the Mantis protector covers those 2
Screws, and does a great job protecting the scoop
Quoted from delt31:So after being very vocal about why people are still waiting for their "pre order" of MBRLE while others are still waiting with no end in sight, I've received many PM's from pinsiders explaining their case. What's funny (or actually sad) is that they are all dealing with the same distributor....Joe @ pinballstar.
I've never dealt with Joe before but I'm sharing this in the thread to help others. If you have a game locked in with Joe, you're not alone. I have no idea what's the hold up on his end (he appears to be a big distributor around here) but again - you're not alone so don't think this is just one persons issue.
It really frustrates me to no end when Pinsiders give money (usually in full) to distributors and they end up still waiting regardless. I'm calling this out here so folks can learn from this experience and maybe think twice about pre orders but more importantly WHO we're buying from. In certain situations, I'm hearing 1k deposits are being held if someone were to move to another distributor. My opinion - that would be the last time I do business with Joe if he wouldn't refund my money. If you can't fulfill your responsibility, allow the consumer to buy elsewhere since they're available.
I have no idea about Joe's situation - I've only heard from others that time tables are close to 2 months with no other explanation. I believe Joe reads these boards (heard him on Kaneda) so maybe he can use it as an opp to inform all of his customers at once but ultimately, I respect transparency and informing other pinsiders to help as I would want the same if I were in your shoes! I hope you guys get yours soon.
Not all the orders are with Joe; this is how rumors get started
Quoted from indypinhead:This is the first time I've heard about this.
Details???
Uh, check out the date, my friend
Quoted from Bublehead:Yeah. Sucks doesn’t it?, so do failed right ramps coming back SDTM, or failed Frank shots heading for STDM or catch the back of a phantom flip target and head toward right outlane, or failed left ramps coming SDTM or just catching the sling and then SDTM... or... all the shots in MB are risky. Not a single one is a gaurantee except the scoop, but hard in and outs do dumb things too. The orbits are safer, but not off Drac’s feet. Reason I love MB... hit it or shit it. There is no try.
Try getting your game level, then raising both right legs a few turns, then raise the front right a few turns more. No more drac soccer.
Quoted from Monk:That seems like it would be way out of level. With this setup, if the ball is rolling straight up the playfield does it come straight down on the same path? Seems like it would roll to the left.
If it’s noticeable, you did it too much. Also, it’s direct from an old ops guide I have somewhere
Quoted from PinballCoug:1- my scoop STDM is going on 2 1/2 months and still not fixed. Guess Bublehead will get his MBr before my scoop is working!
2- I bent the ball guide out slightly and now even slow orbits miss Drac's feet. I first tried raising the right levelers, perhaps too much, but noticed it affected the ball path coming down the playfield.
Also there is a little bit of play in the scoop - a tiny move makes a huge difference. Have you tried looking at that?
Quoted from PinballCoug:Yep, tried that second after playing with coil strength first. There was very little play on mine and I couldn't notice any difference after the adjustment.
Weird. I wonder if the CGC ones attempted to “fix” the scoop by making the holes more tight. There’s always the Mantis super-reinforced one, which does allow adjustment
Quoted from pintechev:Yes, but you’d lose the scoop LEDs if you went to the mantis. I think an idea is to enlarge the scoop mounting holes to give it more torsion adjustability.
I guess so, but that’s like a $4 fix to replace them
Quoted from metal-mods:For those that posted that they only increased the right popper power setting to max with no change on scoop SDTM problems, YOU NEED TO ADD THE SPRING WASHER TO THE SOLENOID !!!! Throw away the duct taped shoe pieces and glued flipper rubbers, stop putting game off level, and stop bending the scoop.BUY A SPRING WASHER AND INSTALL IT LOL!! It takes 5 minutes, literally. I've played over 100 games since INSTALLING A SPRING WASHER, which means I've probably hit the scoop at least 500 times- every eject has gone to left flipper
Just so nobody’s going to get confused - the adjustment where the game is slightly higher on the right side is intended to address the issue with Drac’s feet, not the scoop... but maybe you could add a spring washer to him too?
Quoted from Bublehead:All of these made me laugh... Ok, to come clean, I did ask her today- “Hey honey, about your travel schedule, yeah when will you be home?, ok, when do I have to come pick you up at the airport?, yes, (you don’t mind if I unbox MB?), What, no I will be there as soon as you land. Yes, so you will be home Friday at 4pm, um hmm... ok, dear, so we are good, yes? Ok, love you too... “<click>
Unfortunately that is not how that conversation actually went... it started with a “Honey, do you really mind if I unbox Monster Bash without—“
On the other end of the phone, Satan cut me off and responded “You can suck C@C&$ in hell before deciding to unbox that machine without me!!! And to those who say otherwise, feel NOW the wrath of my Power Who-ha ha ha!!!” <picture recieved tone>
She then sent a NSFW picture... (for reals...) that I would like to post, but not sure I want to post, because a pic of my wife’s hand flipping the bird to everyone is bound to get more than a few downvotes. Right?
Well.. at least you know she’s a keeper!
Quoted from CKrueger:Yeah, people say they're jealous when your spouse is also into pinball. They never believe us when we say there are actually downsides.
I think you should have led with "I have a plan for when you return. I'll pick you up at the airport and we'll stop at that coffee shop you like on the way home. You'll need to coffee because at home your slippers will be ready and Monster Bash will be all cleaned and ready to play. The first game is yours."
And try not to snicker as you say it.
Your wife getting on your case for you wanting to open your NIB game together is not a downside. “You bought ANOTHER ONE?! Where will it fit?!” Is a downside.
Quoted from Bublehead:No reason to feel stupid, just because you are inexperienced and have never adjusted Drac before, now you have, and you can help the next poor fellow who posts on here, “hey my Drac aint registering hits...” because this is it baby, this is what we are here for, helping each other keep these things running.
Which gave me a cosmic thought... we sit around and design, build, play, repair, and restore artificial adversaries to test ourselves against one and other, to see who is “The Best” but then that begs the next question, best at what?
Playing pinball in general, or having high accuracy, or being informed, or smarter than your human opponents? Better at altering the path of a steel ball without imparting too much momentum into a swinging mass? Or just real, real, really lucky?
They always say to try your luck playing in a tournament, but luck has nothing to do with the final three players at the top getting there, but from there on, luck is a bitch to be ridden by skill.
Ok now back to my artificial adversary...
More posts like these please!
Quoted from Lermods:I can only answer about the trough lighting as I have an SE.
https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-led-strip-interactive-rgb-trough-light-kit
https://lermods.com/t/monster-bash-remake-pinball-mods
TROUGH LIGHTING. BLUE. Order ASAP
Quoted from zpinman370:You are supposed to get one??? News to me as I sure did not.
they were in some of the games in the goodie bag. I'm a bit surprised CGC doesn't include them in all the games, though. My OG MB still has the key fob stapled to the goodie bag in the cabinet. Truth be told, it's a little lame - just a small circle, but it's cool to get them nonetheless!
Quoted from Only_Pinball:Are you doing the code with game started and ball one in the shooter lane?
Yep! And I know I have to shoot the scoop
Quoted from Bublehead:Ok, get MOR as fast as possible without scoring MB to get the 50M “Rock Before Bash” bonus, and make sure to get double and triple instruments before rocking. Then use Frank MB’s and Mosh Pits MB’s to complete instruments again, Then MOR again, then Bash, a couple more Frankie MB... Do I need to go on?
LOL...
Quoted from aztarac:uhh....turn the volume up?
No kidding - I’ve done that! Mine has this high pitched squeal, I’m just not sure where to adjust, trying not to lube anything
Quoted from Bublehead:Geared motor for frank can be a pain sometimes like all drop bank motors- the metal gears have burs that make them sound like gawd awful at times. Replacing the motor was the quick fix in the old days. Was sometimes hit or miss finding a quiet one.
Well maybe I’ll look into that - this looks like a relatively off the shelf common motor.
Quoted from Oaken:After two weeks around the country on a truck, I got my machine this morning (#901). Box was pristine. Pretty excited to build it tonight after kids go to bed.
I got it partially unboxed and I noticed some blemishes on the cabinet corner. My intial reaction was "no big deal", but since this is my first machine I thought I would double check with the community. [quoted image]
Every game ever on day 2. Just sharpie it and PLAY THE DANG GAME!
Quoted from Zablon:Which flipper is it SUPPOSED to spit to? Mine spits solid left 100%.
depends greatly only what pitch your machine is on. If it's set up higher, it is more likely to hit the left flipper. but this is also a good way to avoid Drac's feet
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:depends greatly only what pitch your machine is on. If it's set up higher, it is more likely to hit the left flipper. but this is also a good way to avoid Drac's feet
My fault - my comment was about the orbit, not the scoop. Scoop should be 100% left flipper. If it's going to the right, there's something wrong. The coil power may be too low
Quoted from Tmezel:Tesla coils from mezelmods.com[quoted image][quoted image]
Man, I really like the look of those! Wow!
Quoted from Ace8Track:I'm having this issue. About every 5th trip down it will go SDTM of Drac's feet. Actually, it almost always hits his feet, but every 5th time it will drain out instead of hitting left flip.
raise your back legs a bunch (try 7.0 pitch) , and slightly raise the right legs a few turns up a bit higher. That's really the only fix, sorry!
Definitely the music is one thing I probably wouldn’t change - although it would be cool to hear in stereo! I’ve got a mod in mind to play video clips from the Universal movies; just have to figure out where to install it!
Quoted from cloggedDrain:Playing the video clips ... where? On a tiny screen installed on the playfield?
Yep - I thought about integrating it with the DMD but it means moving my SmartDMD to that game, etc, and I thought having it on the PF would be more noticeable
Quoted from neverahighscore:I have a pinsound in my bsd and love it. This mix is annoying. Background voices mixed with the callouts doesn't work imo.
That’s fixable - you just have to tweak the settings on each callout
Quoted from Jigfrog:This. I'm experiencing every single thing listed here. The only thing he left out was the deflection off Dracs feet STDM, but that doesn't happen often anymore. Usually it barely gets to the tip of the left flipper now. My biggest complaint is the side drains. Super suck is an understatement. There are a lot of very predictable places where you are guaranteed a side drain. This game is a bit more difficult than the original due to all the above.
The only setting I've altered so far was the ball save.
due to the drains or due to drac’s feet?
Quoted from Johncare07:Anyone have a solve for the phantom flipper not being accurate? I have:
Ensured machine is level
Played at least 200 games on it to let it learn my patterns.
Any help is appreciated.
You really have to consistently hit a -lot- of shots for it to learn everything. The PF is comprised of 3 components per side: the inlane switch, an opto in the slings, and a proximity switch (under the playfield). Make sure all 3 work - they should fire in succession when you roll a ball down the inlane
Make sure you hit the bride shots successfully a lot, and the Frank ramp a lot; these are most commonly what it goes for
Quoted from Bublehead:One smart piece of advice... never use Phantom flip. If it hits a shot when I let it try I am amazed, otherwise, I trust my own flipping more than I trust PF. That being said, I don’t recall how many times now I have started B&C, then let PF flip my last shot on the monster ramp to have it rebound back to the right or left outlane off the PF targets. Phantom flip is good only when it accidentally makes a shot because you did an inlane roll back with it qualified in the lane, and it hits a shot to a ramp giving it back to your flipper. Other than that I never use it unless I am really sucking hitting my shots and give it a go because it can’t be any worse than me.
This must be a machine-specific thing - mine is pretty good at nailing the left Bride ramp and the Frank ramp. Occasionally I will have it hit from the left flipper, but it tends to be usually coming from the right for some reason. You really have to make sure those proximity sensors are right up to the playfield and don’t move after it’s done learning. Not the best design I guess
Quoted from Oscilated:I want to share the response I received from Arturo at Chicago Gaming regarding the ball striking Dracula's feet and getting redirected straight down the middle (SDTM):
For what it's worth, I noticed on a few different PAPA videos of competitive play, the (much more experienced than me) players would often nudge/jostle the machine every time the ball was approaching Dracula's feet. And the announcers in this following video even mention the issue specifically around 2:25:
In the end, I'm thinking CGC built a pretty "accurate" remake... flaws and all.
Raise. The. Pitch. The end. Slightly raise the right side legs if you still have issues.
Quoted from Oscilated:Mine is set darn close to 6.5 degrees, as recommended by the manual. If memory serves me correctly, during a recent Q&A video posted to Facebook, even Steve Ritchie insists games are designed and engineered to be played at 6.5. I'm too new to this hobby to understand why others recommend 7+ degree pitch. Seems like the enthusiasts are looking to get something out of a machine that it was never designed to give? I donno.
Nonetheless, I agree that by raising the right side legs to be just a hair taller than the left you will reduce the frequency of Dracula playing soccer. It's a trade-off versus being level. But compared to my Stern Star Wars, Monster Bash seems much less sensitive to being slightly out-of-level. I really don't notice it during play (spare the Drac issue).
I guess everyone's mileage will vary based on the unique characteristics of their individual machine.
Most games are intended for 6.5 pitch, but not all - Houdini is better at about 6.2 (yes it needs to be that precise) and MB has a design flaw with the outer orbit which you can only correct by raising the pitch a bit and raising the right a touch, which gets the ball rolling faster. MB originally had a very small ball guide in the right hand wolfman’s face to solve the Drac issue, but it was removed because it interfered with other shots. They elected to put the game out without it and just deal with the Dirac SDTM issue.
Interestingly, my original play field as factory installed did not exhibit the issue, but when I replaced the playfield with a repro, something about how I installed it (or dimple alignment, something...) causes Drac to kick the ball a lot
More frequently.
There’s an original with powder coat and every mod in the world available for
LESS than an SE. What are you guys waiting for ?!?
Quoted from Bublehead:I want to thank everyone for putting up with me while I was waiting on my LE, and personally thank cgc_dougs, cgc-ryan, and Joe pinballstar for getting me my daily dose of crack, er, I meant pinball. And to those still waiting, it was well worth it, just hang in there just a little longer... I have been so happy playing MBrLE, no matter how frustrating it has been to get the SDTM’s from the scoop and dracs feet dialed out, and the left Bride ramp a lot less clunky. My only pisser right now is the clanking rejects from the scoop, but that is due to the hole protectors doing their job. If you didnt care about the chipped wood around the scoop edge, it would play better without it, imo. Maybe someone will get totally pissed and remove them and see how it plays?
There’s always the Mantis protector - it sits inside the scoop, and if installed precisely, protects the wood perfectly with very few rejects. Looks better, too. Cliffy’s slimline protector also works great
Quoted from Mahoneyj:I have 86 inches and mine just fits with a bit of room to spare. Why would you need to lift it? I put sliders under my feet so I can easily slide it to move. If I need to get it off the ground for some reason I would drop the back box if necessary and leave the topper on. Not sure I will ever need to do that though. I just push it around on the sliders when needed.
SLAM TILT!
Quoted from Bearcat:Apologies if this has been covered...
We are having major issues getting the ball through the left side bride ramp - even on perfect shots, the ball almost always (at least 18 of 20 shots) hangs up and comes back...
Any advice?
roll the ball up by hand and make sure it's smooth. there were some games that had problems with the ramp installation and/or burrs on the ramp which impeded the ball
Quoted from f3honda4me:It's a flaw in the design of the ramp. The rails are set so that direct strong shots, the ball rides up on the outside rail and against the outside wall, eventually rolling down into the middle of the guide rail causing it to slow WAY down. I have yet to find a way to really fix it well, though I get a few less rejects now after trying to do some bending of the rail/wall.
Not so much in the design, as specific to the remakes. Originals do not have this issue
Quoted from Zablon:After a few 3 or so weeks of having this, I can say I really love it, and I really suck at it. I have one minor complaint, and that is since it isn't ROM it takes forever to boot up. I'm used to just turning a game on and in a few seconds I'm in a game. Now I get into the habit of turning it and another game on, and playing a quick game on another one until it's ready.
My phantom flip does a pretty damn good job already. It rarely misses, although it does occasionally go for the wrong thing.
First modern game probably? JJP and AP games take 2 or 3 minutes sometimes. Lots of stuff going on in new games
Quoted from Bublehead:moeman65
That lights for Last Chance when you end Frank MB without getting his Organ, this insert flashes to let you know if you hit Frank, or the standup bank in front withing the timer, frank opens up again and if you shoot him, Frank mode is extended I think for 10 seconds and you can hit Frank and complete his instrument (organ). And I think it flashes when double and triple super jackpots are qualified too.
Speaking of Frank MB - sometimes I get 3 balls, sometimes it’s only 2, and I’ve never figured out what the difference is. It’s not like there’s a lock, so how is the game determining whether or not to send the 3rd ball?
Quoted from Zablon:I always get 3 on Frank MB.....monster mosh pit is 2 (iirc)
Weird. This happens to me rather consistently. Definitely not Monster Mosh Pit, although you can get add a ball on that too I think.
Quoted from bigdog50:Frank is always 3 balls. On Mosh Pit it is 2 balls but if you shoot up the center spinner you get another ball added and if you make that spinner shot twice you get a 4th ball. So when you start Mosh Pit only aim for the spinner until you max out.
This helped me after I found it for rules and strategy --
http://pinball.org/rules/monsterbash.txt
And here is a 6 year old thread on pinside that talks more about stacking monsters before starting multi-balls
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/monster-bash-stacking-strategies
Him.. I may have something wrong then. I’ll check settings, thx!
Quoted from PinballGalore:https://papa.org/2013/12/developing-monster-bash/
I’ve come across this link. It looks like a bunch of photos I would LOVE to see are in existence, but won’t load. Has anyone got these on record? Has anyone seen these photos of the development of monster bash, from back in the late 90’s? If you know where I can view these i’d be forever grateful.
Cheers
i don't have all of them, but these are some of the interesting ones
MB playfie3ld (resized).jpgMB sketches (resized).jpg
MBSketchcolor2 (resized).jpgMBsketch1 (resized).jpgMBsketchfaces (resized).jpgQuoted from Rdoyle1978:i don't have all of them, but these are some of the interesting ones
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The last one with the faces is particularly interesting, because it is a sketch of faces from actual promo photos from the original Universal movies, but uses *none* of the original actors who made the characters famous.
Frankenstein is Lon Chaney, Jr, who normally played the Wolfman - but played the Monster in the Ghost of Frankenstein.
the Wolfman is actually Henry Hull, who played an earlier Wolfman in "Werewolf of London". Here he has way more hair added to the sketch.
I believe the Mummy is also Lon Chaney, Jr, from one of the Mummy sequels (curse of the mummy, hand of the mummy, etc)
Not sure on Drac and the bride - but they are not Bela Lugosi and Elsa Lanchester, respectively.
Quoted from Captain-Flint:It's only supposed to go on during Monster Bash, and Monsters of Rock, and tilt. Kind of like a stage light. Don't expect it during the game.
Is this unique to the remake? That is not how the original works
Quoted from Fizz:Was this game going to be named "Monster Mash" at some point? That's what it says in that last sketch.
Gomez would have to confirm, but it seems likely that's what they started with. That last sketch is for sure one of the earliest pieces of work
How many people actually have a game? Every time I check this thread it’s about somebody disappointed or waiting for their delivery... who’s actually playing the game?
Quoted from Bublehead:Start every monster mode all at the same time... saving Frank to the last shot... you will see a 6 6 6 flash on the display as Frank multiball starts... finish all monsters to light MOR when last multiball drains, score it to get Rock before Bash 50M bonus. Pretty much tops out MB, with the Lymans Lament being last thing to try for.
Quoted from Bublehead:Start every monster mode all at the same time... saving Frank to the last shot... you will see a 6 6 6 flash on the display as Frank multiball starts... finish all monsters to light MOR when last multiball drains, score it to get Rock before Bash 50M bonus. Pretty much tops out MB, with the Lymans Lament being last thing to try for.
Fun thing to try for - I didn’t even know it was a thing until I’d had my game for 3 years- unfortunately the points make it hardly worth it, but it’s still a great feeling when you get it!
Quoted from ercvacation:I had my first test report issue. Frank table down quit working. Checked it out and both screws were very loose. Tightened them up and back in business. Decided to do some other work. Added the spring washer to coil for scoop and got things nice and tight. I had at least 50 ejects and none went down the middle. Hopefully that is the end of that. I noticed a loose connection that needed tightened. I am surprised it was making contact. Also found a small screw at the bottom of the machine I couldn't find where it went but I have it in case I find it.
Next issue was my right orbit. Pretty much every ball hit dracs feet but went to the left flipper so I left alone. Now I wanted to get things working as they should. I tried raising the right side. I think I have it working well but still get some off the feet. Are the real slow ones still supposed to hit his feet? Is it just the clean shots that go with speed that are supposed to go straight to the right flipper? I did some searching and found some dracula's for sale that had cut feet for $50. Does that work. Seems like it would if enough was cut off. Any thoughts on this?
Later games that rolled off the line had the feet cut. CGc decided to include the full feet but without addressing the issue for some reason
Quoted from Moeman65:What would cause the phantom flip to occasionally not flip? This happened on my game several times yesterday after playing several hours and it did it on both sides.
Phantom flip is triggered by 3 things: a regular switch, an Opto and a proximity switch on each lane. Check under the playfield that the proximity switch hasn't gotten loose. It's held in with theee plastic clips and they aren't perfect. The switch needs to be as close to the surface as possible
Quoted from sgorsuch:I woke up for the past two days with a sore throat and just kind of blah feeling.Thought I would break the boredom on staying inside with some pinball. Played a long 40 minute game on Houdini, which got me to the Master Magician mode, but FAILED as usual. Thought I would then play a quick game on MB....wrong. Had the game of my life on this game.Had 3 monsters complete as well as their instruments on ball 1, and managed to start the remaining 3 monsters as well as MB. Then started MoR at the end of MB. This was a first.I came so close to defeating the default MoR score of 200 mil with 191mil. Having made this milestone, I set my sights on Lymans Lament as I had 28 concert hall. I did get to it for only the 3rd time, but alas shot out of the scoop went SDTM, ha. I managed to end up with a score of 1.598 bil. I had 6 MB and 2 MoR.I also had my highest end of ball bonus of x80. I checked the settings ,and it was factory for Monster EB and Instrument EB. I think that I got 1 RB as a treasure from the scoop. I wanted to see how long the game took, but the audits only had a > than 15 minutes . My best guess is at least 1/2 hour game.Game was 3 ball.So much for a quick game.
Awesome game!
How do you know how many concert halls you've hit?
Quoted from greenhorn1:Nearly 8 months after ordering, my MB LE finally arrived today and appears to be in pretty good shape with the exception of the fact that the ball gets stuck on the left ramp right after the switch. Does anyone know an easy fix for this? I haven't completely leveled the game yet but that is not going to help here as the ball definitely doesn't have enough space to clear the ramp unless I pull on the wireform a bit. I could probably pull on ramp enough to bend it slightly more open but I don't want to risk making something worse if that's the wrong move here so I figured i'd ask first.[quoted image]
Wax it!
Quoted from bigdog50:$169 for 3 figures (!!). Sold Out
Much cheaper to DIY!
D0855203-98A9-48B4-9116-AD48858F06D7 (resized).jpegQuoted from BOBCADE:Where are those from? I thought about the leftover topper parts but with another $20 for shipping the cost wasn’t for me.
Official Universal Monsters figures from about 20 years ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:Got back after a long day, no ones home, and right after the shower I decide it’s time to play some MB. Why bother getting dressed?
I had a bash in my birthday suit. Very refreshing, and liberating .
Highly recommended.
Recommended High.
Oh, my. Hope you got MOR!
Quoted from TODD969:The batwing looking one goes in the upper right track, should have pharaoh by pops, no idea on other
The smaller one goes to the right side of the upper right pop bumper. The plastic it protects has the Sphinx on it. Not sure about the remake, but this is an often skipped protector on vintage games. The plastic standoff things don’t hold the plastic very Weller e
Quoted from Spanky7:Does anyone know of a TV mod that does the slideshow or shows the old Universal films?
I’m working on one right now, although not to sell or anything. The trouble I’m having is I feel like the movies should be on a theater screen, not a tv. There’s lots of mods out there that do this - you could easily replace the videos on the TZ one, for example
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Question on this PDI glass--can it be cleaned just with Windex? I ask because I'm considering some for my MBR. I'll be routing my machine (don't shoot me!) and they'll be cleaning the glass occasionally, so I just want to be sure it doesn't require the special cleaner sold by PDI.
DO NOT use WINDEx!! Use the stuff LTG suggested. You can get it at Home Depot. Do not use windex.
Quoted from CUJO:Still having issues with the ball making it into the shooter lane, even on MIN setting.
Can someone else please check their MBLe and see if they too have a piece of rubber on the topside edge of the trough where ball come out of?
I'm thinking the ball is hitting this due to improper placement and falling back down.
Yes there should be a rubber piece like this:
D7F1D78B-892F-4477-BB3D-4B37B78A9135 (resized).jpegQuoted from LTG:Close but no cigar. It's hitting the metal flap that should divert it to the shooter lane. ( if changing power higher or lower doesn't help. )
For WOZ, yet this will help - http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
LTG : )
Yes, this worked for me on my Hobbit, which has a pretty similar trough
Quoted from gjm7777:New to the club, an SE & very satisfied with the game - CGC continues to get better with each release.
Right now I'm totally pissed at myself, I was making some tweaks to things
Left Bride ramp wasn't flowing as well as I liked - Bent the right/outer wireform to be more level coming into the first turn and then bent the metal walls inward to pinch in closer to the wireform. It hasn't helped 100%, but much better - I suspect if I took off the Frank ramp I could really get at it to help in that first turn.
I also decided to bend out the right orbit guide a tad to help with the ball hitting the upper right sling, and then I totally messed up by doing the same to the lower guide under the coffin. The lower part was much closer to the playfield than I thought, and while the upper part of it bent out no problem, the lower part dug in a bit and chipped out a tiny piece of the CC/Paint. It didn't come up all the way so I was able to mylar it back down but it really bums me out. I could probably look to seal it with some clear down the line.
I drew an outline around it for a better look. The crazy part is I have done this on plenty of games and never had a problem.
So yeah don't be an idiot like me.
[quoted image]
Bummer! I know how ya feel.. it doesn’t look that bad though.
Quoted from Lounge:First post - first pin in years - LE #449 December build.
A little late to the party but I made it. Love this pin even with the small issues.
My early machine has all the little bugs that are addressed in this thread. A huge thanks to the big-brains that solved the scoop kick-out and the left ramp issues. I’m away from my machine for a bit but can’t wait to fix these.
Has anyone experienced the ball hopping out of the right ramp where the ramps come together? I’m thinking a small plastic bit covering the transition will fix that - anyone with another solution?
TIA
My original used to do this - see if you have any leeway to adjust the right ramp. It needs to be aligned pretty perfectly in order to slow the ball down when it comes around that corner
Quoted from SkaterVet:All Monsters and instruments, but the mic. Multiple Monster Bashes and a Mosh Pitt. Still no Monsters of Rock. My last ball was lost because Phantom Flip failed to fire. Argh!!!![quoted image]
Quoted from SkaterVet:All Monsters and instruments, but the mic. Multiple Monster Bashes and a Mosh Pitt. Still no Monsters of Rock. My last ball was lost because Phantom Flip failed to fire. Argh!!!![quoted image]
That is strange - on my game, if phantom flip screws up, I always get a ball save.
Quoted from SkaterVet:I've only had Phantom Flip fail to fire twice. The first time, the ball was saved. That's why I felt comfortable allowing it to try and hit the shot I kept missing in my best game ever. Of course, that time, my ball was not saved. Ugh.
That sucks!
Quoted from indybru:The first picture is what I had and tried.
The second is was the tech's solution to right outline drains. He said the new rubber post was from Data East part. Good luck[quoted image][quoted image]
So what this is doing is pushing out the ball guide, similar to what has been discussed before, but it is a better option than just bending the part out because it's supported by the post rubber. Nice
Quoted from Moeman65:Phantom flip learns or teaches itself to operate. It takes several games for this to happen. The manual addresses this and also the tech dept. told me the same thing. Code update probably erased what was previously learned.
It's a *lot* more than "several" games too. You have to have the ball come down the inlane and roll onto the flipper, and make a shot (to the bride ramps, or the frank ramp usually), and *that* has to be done several times before the game will attempt it
Quoted from PinballGalore:The learning curve is understood, that’s not the issue here. What happened was that one side of the feature was disabled altogether. Only one side would light up while the other was just completely disabled, so when you hit the flipper for the blue light to switch sides, because that’s the inlane the ball is going to, it would not light or register it as a phantom flip. Nothing to do with learning the shot. That’s why it was so odd. Never happened when I got the machine in June nib.
Ok now that does sound like a bug. You checked the LED in test as well?
Quoted from PinballGalore:Thanks lounge.
as mentioned I have the latest update on my mbr - and did it all myself with the msd card. Very simple.
1) I was asking what needs to happen on those older machines I have.
Twilight,flintstones,wh2o and monopoly.
All those games could do with an update as they are all the same code that left the factory 25 years ago. I’m considering replacing the rom/version - and I’m trying to understand if that’s a simple, no solder, take out old chip stick in new one...
2) I’d also like to know where I can figure out which rom is the smoothest running, good for home use etc - so where can that info be obtained. Each game would have different rooms to choose from.
3) My last question was to better understand what replacing a sound rom would do to a game. Is it something to consider?
Thnx
Read about each game on ipdb.org, and you will find the latest version numbers listed. You can even download the actual ROM, and if you have an EEPROM burner you can make them yourself! Or buy from one of the many retailers who sell these.
TZ latest is 9.4H. -DO NOT- buy the 9.4CH, they are different and 9.4CH was made as a hacked version, and stopped Ted Estes from ever putting out further TZ updates.
Not sure on WW, a lot of games never get upgraded, you should verify you have the latest.
To install you just carefully remove the ROM chip (it is not soldered), and carefully reinstall the new one. Don’t Bend the legs!
Quoted from PinballGalore:Oh and what would replacing the sound rom give ?
I think it depends on the game, but many games use the same Sound ROMs even when you upgrade the main game ROM, so there's nothing to upgrade. You have to look on IPDB
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I can't get the shooter to shoot straight and there seems to be very little, if any room for adjustment. The ball tends to bounce its way up the shooter lane, occasionally hitting the upper plastics falling back down the right orbit. Has anyone had this and what did you do?
You’ll need to realign the ball guide a bit where the ball comes off the shooter ramp, and double check that the curved wire form (the one that partially encircles the plastic with the Sphinx) is pounded in tight and not moving
Quoted from drummermike:I have had my MBr SE for a while now. My high score is 477 million. Now when I play it is a huge drain monster. I am lucky to get 4 million now. PF angle is 6.5. I twisted the vuk to stop the SDTM and send the ball to the left flipper. It seems as if any ball coming down the pf heads SDTM.
From which side? You might want to think about increasing your angle a touch, and slightly raise the right legs (specifically the rear one by a couple of turns)
Quoted from drummermike:Thanks. Usually ball comes from the center or right side and goes SDTM. I will try your suggestions,
the other thing you can do is bend the right-hand ball guide (the one directly above Dracula) outwards - toward the middle of the playfield more. If you want to get really fancy you can add a thicker post rubber to the post in the area, which will keep the ball guide in place. I just bent mine gently with a padded screwdriver, but having the post rubber would make it more or less unmoveable. You don't need to bend it much, but just keep rolling a ball down and make sure it doesn't hit Dracula's feet (which is what causes most of the drains from the right orbit)
Quoted from drummermike:Never have problems with Dracs feet. I will bend the guide to see if that helps though. I raised the right side legs. So far it is slightly better. Have to play more to see results. Thanks again.
You bet - raise all 4 legs a bit too; helps slow down left-to-right movement (and increases downward movement!)
Quoted from NielsVV:About the SDTM from the scoop...
At first i thought i could live with this. But after more than 100 games it became really too much for me and decided to do something about it. I was very nervous and sweaty to start, but with success! I placed a plastic spacer between the coil. After reassembling the coil, the play was gone.
So far, the SDTM from the scoop has not occurred anymore. See attached photos of the method I used. I hope I did everything correct with the place I mounted the spacer?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Does this mean they are using the wrong size sleeve on the coil ?
Quoted from LTG:No. Same set up as Williams used, and a problem with the original Williams game too.
LTG : )
No kidding. Huh. I must be one of the lucky ones!
Quoted from LukyDuck:If I remember correctly, the volume change was part of the update. I have no rattling sound that you speak of, but during the boot sequence, the speakers pop really loudly. I was going to ask if anyone else has this new loud pop in the speakers when booting up?
Everyone who ever owned a WPC game ever
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:Any chance you could post a pic of where you placed the mylar? I'm picking up a MB shortly and want to protect it before I play my first game on it. Thanks!!!
He’s saying basically the middle right of the playfield. The 2 main wear areas are the scoop and the Drac trac. If someone is getting air balls though, it may be worth looking into dialing down the coils, or checking flipper alignment. There shouldn’t be hardly any air balls ever
Quoted from themegabuck:Just got my SE last night from Little Shop of Games and super pumped to add this to my lineup!
I had a question about the games history that has always had me curious. Does anyone know the story why the Phantom of the Opera was not one of the game's monsters? Growing up in Orlando, he was always a big deal with the Universal monsters at the parks (all through the 90's), especially when the "monster band" was featured.
Does anyone know the story behind the Monster choices? Where's Gomez?
The classic “Universal Monsters” don’t always include the Phantom - mostly because the classic Phantom film (the one everybody knows) is silent. It was re-released in the 1950s around when Creature was coming out, when the other films were going through a revival, but it didn’t fare super well (silent movie), and the remake with Claude Rains is nice but it never caught on huge like the other monsters.
The Invisible Man isn’t included either.
... or is he?
Quoted from Zablon:<phantom flip> *cough*
You'll note that the phantom flip character on the playfield is a ghost...
But maybe that was Gomez' way of at least including the "idea" of the POTO. You know, come to think of it, I wonder if there was a licensing issue with the previous game (even though that appears to be based more on the Leroux novel, it still looks a heck of a lot like the 1943 Raines remake)
Quoted from Zablon:Actually I was alluding to your suggestion about the invisible man, but not seriously.
*facepalm* LOL
Quoted from mcfly:Didn’t even know he was meant to move and I was still impressed. I’ll pop the hood tomorrow and see what’s going on. Awesome game hey Kurtis
Yes, he should be bouncing around under that lagoon plastic,
From all the movement in the game.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I don’t recall whether the original MB Creature wiggled. Is it meant to? And if so, is it just the force of hitting the creature shot which creates the wiggle? Yep these fixes I enjoy
Yes he wiggles on my original MB. Just genersl shaking should make him move - I don't have a shaker in mine but he moves quite a bit on his own from the bass and from the ball rolling around, mechs firing, etc
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Ribbing or wood grain seems to be more and more common on new games these days.
Cheaper, softer wood?
for sure. There just isn't a lot of quality wood *in the world* any more. The replacement forests that are planted just don't have time to grow very dense before they're cut down.
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:So magnets. What do they do in MB and how often are they used? I am using the supplied balls but I’m not really seeing any magnet use?
There are magnets in MB...right? Lol
um... what?
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:What I asked is whether MB had magnets.
It doesn’t. I was wrong.
PM me with further confusion.
Aah. It doesn't. But it's still a kick ass game!
Quoted from V8haha:Anyone know is there a setting to add a ball save after the ball comes out of the scoop? I have mine on location and randomly it seems to shoot right down the middle.
Rather not piss anyone off haha
I couldn’t find anything in the settings
No but you can find some fixes for that issue. Some have increased the coil power, some lower it, others adjust the scoop itself
Quoted from Lounge:Cliffy’s
Cliff doesn’t make shooter lane protectors - he does make the trough eject protector. You can buy “nudies” (look them up on Pinside) for protecting the shooter lane
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:Anyone know where to get the Dracula bat?
there's a dracula bat?
Quoted from Zablon:Here's a question...can you reset the phantom flip learning?
It would be cool if you there was simply a 'learning' mode that you keep feeding the ball down the lane, and it shoots the shots until it has the timing down.
Yes, do a factory reset, then play a TON of games, and make lots of every shot to have it re-learn
Quoted from Jigfrog:What's the best way to clean your play field from the normal dirt/grime that might accumulate during normal play?
Naphtha, thoroughly. Make sure you open a window. Then re-wax it. Thoroughly. See Vid’s guide
Quoted from sgorsuch:Had a productive day- had a few nagging issues that are nothing new, just finally decided to look at each one.The scoop was easily removed and and i just loosened up the coil stop and and moved it to the tightest position against the coil and retightened . It really seemed to help. Prior, I had just tried various coil strength adjustments -with no consistent improvement.Having the ball go SDTM is a real joy killer, so far after playing 3 games- no SDTMs.
The other nuisance issue was the outhole protector- every once in a while a ball will not enter the trough, and the ball is hidden from normal view. Just had to remove it and add a couple minor tweaks to get the edge flat again.
By adding a slight bend to the Dracula stand, I am hoping this will help with the flow of the game. Usually it is when the ball is moving slowly from the right orbit that it hits his feet and more often than desired- it tends to gravitate between the flippers.So far - the bend looks to have improved this issue.
I have not yet discovered what the fix is for the launch of the ball- as about 1 in 10 times it will bobble and not even make it to the roll over lanes.I have tried different coil settings, but it occurs on all settings. Has anyone had this issue and found the root cause for it? Thanks
What is the “Dracula stand” you refer to?
The ball launch issue is a combination of the tightness of the left ball guide wireform and the straightness of the ball trajectory- you have to really be sure the launch pin is hitting the ball straight on, and that the wire guard is deep in the wood. Then wax the crap out of all involved components
a good longer term solution is also to remove the bulbs and replace with a blue frosted strip from Comet
Quoted from NeilMcRae:You can make either hard or easier. The remake tends to be faster because the new play field is quicker and the parts are all new. But with a decent effort you can make the original just as fast, clean and wax, sort out all the coils so they move quick. Tighten the pop and sling sensitivities and boom. I had an original but WPC games of that era that I’ve owned start to need a lot of work on the switches and I got fed up replacing them all the time. So after having such a great experience with MMR and AFMR I sold my original and bought an LE. Haven’t looked back. PAPA’s original monster bash I’ve payed at three Pinburghs and it’s slaughtered me every year. But assuming I get a ticket, this year is going to be different!!
Restored my original williams MB and it plays just as good as a remake. New playfield, new plastics, polished everything within an inch of its lift, new coil sleeves, etc. Took me 5 months MBr plays real nice too, you can't go wrong either way - it's just a matter of how much you like to work on the games. I do, but that restore took the fun out of working on games for a good 6 months...
So.... for those who have been looking for a solution to the drain issue.
The best solution I’ve come to thus far has been to bend the ballguide above dracula. I bend it out slightly so the ball trajectory is curved a little more inward. It seems counterintuitive since we are trying to -Avoid- middle drains, but that’s what works. Fairly consistently keeps the ball in play. For a little while. After a few good solid plays, the ball guide works its way back, and I’m back to nudging and praying.
So the other night I’m thinking about what I can use to wedge in there to keep the ballguide in place. I root around for rubber, and find a ring that perfectly fits around the existing black rubber -and- pushes the ballguide out. It worked flawlessly!!
Took me all of about 30 seconds to install (lift the plastic gently and shove it down around the black post rubber, push the ballguide out of the way so it has clearance, done.
I do want to find a similarly sized piece that’s made of firmer rubber, but this seems to be the trick. Does not impede the ball whatsoever, and I’ve got a perfectly level game with no issue hitting Drac’s Bruno Maglis!
Quoted from PolePosition:Rdoyle1978..... can you post a pic?
Sure, will do tomorrow!
Quoted from mjannusch:My Drac came with (what I think is) trimmed feet from CGC so, fortunately, I haven't had the Drac drain issue - but I'm curious if bending the ball guide above Drac still allows the ball to feed to the right flipper, or does it redirect the ball over to the left flipper?
If I’m not mistaken the remakes came with the original full feet. Can you post a photo?
Anyway the ball guide change drops the ball fairly consistently to the same spot on the Right flipper. This changes the ball trajectory so that it avoids Drac but still continues in a pretty straight path down to the flipper
Quoted from mjannusch:Here's the feet on mine. On the front they angle back from the top at about maybe a 60 degree angle. I don't have another game to compare to, so maybe this is normal? Mine's a very late production LE.[quoted image]
that looks like the original feet to me. The later williams games basically cut off everything that extends beyond his leg
Quoted from pintechev:I just repaired an original MB and the feet were cut back farther. I might do that on mine.
I believe you can buy a NOS Drac at PPS or Marco (I forget which) which has the feet pre-cut. Might be a simpler solution and you can go back if you ever sell.
Quoted from LTG:Please put a tiny drop of oil on the pivot points, then run him up and down a few times in test.
Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
LTG : )
and I STRONGLY suggest you buy one of these guys if you're messing with the trigger switch leaf blade:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Quoted from etien:Quick question. I should receive my MBrLE anytime soon now, it is work upgrading the translite to a proper mirrored backglass and if so is the classic pinball one compatible and worth the price?
Cheers
Étienne
It looks nice - it is VERY expensive. You will need to increase the light output of the backbox considerably. I would not make it a top priority
Definitely pitch is a factor. Plus my original game kicks SIGNIFICANTLY harder than the sort of pathetic dribble out the remake does.
Perhaps the kicker tip hitting the ball off Center is also a factor. Has anyone compared parts to see if the remake uses a different length, or if the coil is fixed in a different way somehow?
Quoted from LTG:Did you try making the kick stronger in the CGC menu ?
Built to Williams specs.
Something else is going on if yours dribbles out. Way the ball sits in there ? Or rests on the plunger ? Misformed plunger end ? Loose coil or sleeve ?
LTG : )
Mine works great, it’s an original Williams I think because others are getting SDTM drains from the scoop, they have lowered the coil strength. This leads to a wimpier game IMO
Quoted from metal-mods:Even with the coil strength increased to max with the new code, every once in a while it shoots out a real weak one.
Weird
Quoted from Zablon:If it isn't hitting the ball center, it won't matter how strong it is.
So what's the deal then? If it's original Williams specs, are the games just assembled wrong?
Quoted from zpinman370:Hey Guys- has anyone bought one of the re-pro mirrored back glass from CPR- just wanting to know what you think for quality, fit etc. vs translite
I have the TZ one - it’s .. not perfect. Looks ok but the light distribution is unusual; some spots are super dark, others give off enough light. I’m not really thrilled with it, and while it’s cool to have the backglass instead of a translite, I frankly don’t think it looks any better. The mirroring looks really nice -WHEN THE MACHINE IS OFF- but you can’t even tell it has mirroring if the game is on. Maybe the MB one is superior
Quoted from marc_b:Anybody have success, or even try, to use pinball browser or similar to change the music out. Love the callouts- but, IMHO, it would be nice to be able to change the monster music to different eras, etc. Plenty of good rock music out there that would fit this theme! PinSound for CGC remakes would be AWESOME
Pretty much impossible given the way the game ROMs are emulated in the CGC boards. Sorry :/
Quoted from Zablon:Hmm..so maybe unrelated to special then. I didn't notice 6 6 6. Anyone know what special does since it happens on a drain?
666 is not related to the special. You have to get all 5 monsters going -at the same time- And then hit the Frank ramp. It’s pretty hard to do, and the points definitely don’t reflect the difficulty!
Quoted from mbeardsley:I wish someone would make some sort of mod to hide some of those nylon standoffs. They really sort of stick out. Even just using a different color would be an improvement.[quoted image]
I agree. I took those out and cut some purple post sleeves and connected them with a screw and a nut. Looks MUCH better
Quoted from PinballGalore:This flew off the other day. Won’t sit back in place.
should I glue it on?
Does the warranty cover this and a new one Can be sent my way?
Thanks guys.[quoted image]
Don’t use super glue! It will frost the inside of the globe (unless you want that)
I found these “glue dots” my kid had from school and they work PERFECTLY for this type of stuff. They are very sticky but not so much that they can’t be removed, and they will squish down nicely on those globes.
Quoted from PinballGalore:I’ll give it a try if I can find them. Thank you.
You can use hot glue too, just don’t use super glue (cyanoacrylate)
Quoted from PersonX99:Some fun bling for your MBr. I also put a set on my AFMr as well. Very easy to daisy-chain into existing speaker lights.
Welll that's a cool idea. Can you see them when you are playing, or is it more of an attract mode effect thing?
Quoted from Sleepy:I tried everything I could think of to fix this problem including trying to bend the guard rail, loosening all nuts everywhere in the Drac assembly and trying to re-align, closing the gap on the switch on the back of Drac, trying to bend other stuff, and probably a few other items I can't think of right now.
I think the best out of those was bending and tightening the gap on Drac so he stood in a more upright position, but it still caused occasional drains.
The final solution that has worked great with no drains ever since I did it was altering his shoes.
I took him off and used my grinder to shave the front of his feet off. Then I just took a black sharpie and coloured the white exposed plastic. You can't even tell it was done. I have had plenty of people play the game without noticing. It also has no impact on the game play during the Dracula mode.
Doing this and adding a spring washer to the eject coil to prevent drains down the middle out of the scoop has made all the difference. The game plays amazing now, especially with the orbit shots during the Werewolf mode.
That's what Williams eventually did. I'd paint the feet - eventually that sharpie is going to wear off.
Quoted from tilted81:Got any pics? I wouldn’t mind seeing how that looks...
Holy thread revival! Let me see what I can do...
Quoted from mbeardsley:A couple more issues/questions...
1 ) When frank is lying on the table, what position are his arms supposed to be in? On mine they are already sticking up mostly. And then when he stands, they go up just a little bit more. Should his arms really be at his side when he is lying down? And if so, can they be adjusted just by the hex screw that attaches the arms?
2 ) Does the CGC playfield glass seem noticeably thinner? The glass on my WhiteWater seems significantly thicker and somehow just beefier. Even just tapping on the MB glass produces a "tinnier" sound. If you tap on the Whitewater glass, it sounds like a car window. If you tap on the MB glass, it sounds like a curio cabinet. Is this normal? Could the MB glass be non-tempered? (I believe that both glasses are original)
3) I mentioned above that my Eddy sensors (for Phantom Flip) had calibration issues. In the switch test, the right flipper sensor was triggering intermittently for no reason. Furthermore, both sensors would consistently detect my switch adjustment tool at even a pretty far range. This was at the default setting of 3 on the board. After fiddling with the adjustment on the board (while still just in the switch test), the sensors started behaving normally, even at the same setting of 3. Now, they don't detect my adjustment tool unless I put it right on the playfield and right by the sensor (previously it would get detected from a much larger distance and could be a couple inches about the playfield). It was like the board was in some sort of super-sensitive mode (even though it was set at 3), and changing the setting back and forth "fixed" it somehow. Previously, the Phantom Flip really sucked, and already I have seen a great improvement after only a few games (I reset the Phantom Flip data after doing this). Hopefully, it will get even better as it learns. I just wanted to describe this in case other people have poor Phantom Flip issues.
1) they stick up mostly. this bugs me too, but it's not fixable without remaking the arms
Quoted from zpinman370:hey guys- is there a decent speaker panel overlay out on the market?? Have the LE but was just looking at how bare the panel is and wondering
Do these exist for WPC95 games? Looks like the original to me. You could always buy the Mantis metal replacement panel and powdercoat it
I’ve had mine for several years now. I don’t play it EVERY day any more, and yes the ball times can be short, but a longer game is really fulfilling. Set it to no ball save for maximum punishment!
Quoted from ShinyBall:Since this is the (MBR Owners Club) very interesting on having it for several years [quoted image]
Sorry, forgot to mention, mine is a Williams, had it for QUITE a while. Just saying it’s worth keeping
Quoted from mbeardsley:I don't know what a sim card hole protector is. The drac track has mylar around it and the scoop has a new protector around it. I haven't had my machine long enough to know what the wear issues might be, but I have no concerns at this point - especially since it will be HUO.
Sim Card hole is a shot in Dialed In.
Quoted from rjsoeps:No i really mean the flipper gap.
I have read the flippers are further apart
Than the original pins.
If anyone knows more about the use of these playfields in an original pin,
Pls reply.. maybe cgc has the awnser
They are definitely not. I have an original, and play is roughly the same on a CGC. spacing is identical. If you are thinking about replacing the playfield, you would be well advised to clamp the two playfields together and drill through the dimple holes so you can be sure they are in the same place.
Quoted from rjsoeps:Thanks for the responce.
What do you think about quality corvette to other playfield manufacturers?
Maybe others can chime in here - I’ve only played on a friend’s remake, but the Playfield looked spectacular on that one
Quoted from LTG:JJP games have the flap that stops the balls from falling out same as P2K. Otherwise the same as used in many later Williams DMD games, All the Jersey Jack Pinball Games, the Chicago Gaming remakes, and American Pinball games.
Not a common issue, but does occasionally pop up.
You can stand on the side of the game and watch the ball come up. If it hits the metal diverter and goes back down, that diverter needs to be bent out a tiny bit.
LTG : )
Those flaps are the greatest invention ever. You can buy them at PBL for a couple bucks and save your games from being destroyed by ball bearing hail! most WPC games can accomodate them - although not TZ apprarently
This wolfman is scale appropriate to the game, and looks pretty good installed:
ebay.com link: NEW SIDESHOW STUDIOS UNIVERSAL MONSTERS THE WOLFMAN 8 LON CHANEY JR
(maybe find one not new in the package...)
Quoted from Zeusflurry:Thanks man! I felt he needed a more swampy vibe when lit up. If I was more talented and could paint, I would consider painting the Creature however I will leave it along for now.
Send him to Modfather!
Really though, since the lagoon plastic is green, you really Can’t see much even when he is painted
Quoted from kapsreiter:here is a nice mod
do you like it?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those look great! Even better than the original. I may put some in my Elvira too
Quoted from smallstocks:Frankenstein nightmare! Just got the game. A few plays in Frankie flops face down onto the machine. Guys who set it up came back and supposedly fixed it but now he doesn't go back down properly either. Help!!!
Better post some photos, kind of hard to help until we can see what the guy did! He is fixed at the feet but should move freely when you lift him off the table
Quoted from Bospins:New to the club as of this week. Kids played for 2 hours straight yesterday.
A few questions for you guys (Either couldn’t find or missed these in the manual)
1) the lcd has this simulated led/dot thing happening. Is there a way to make it so it behaves like and lcd, and not like an lcd simulating an led / dmd?
2) I can’t get the volume to go below 8 and it’s still pretty loud. Is that normal? Why won’t it go below 8?
3) what do you guys recommend in terms of cliffys and shooter lane protection? This thing is huo but I’d like to keep it as mint as possible. It looks like there is some Cliffy-like thing around the scoop from the factory.
Sorry if these qs have been asked in this thread before or answered in the manual, but I couldn’t find them with whatever search terms I chose.
Thanks!
1) don’t think so, it’s not the same as ColoDMD
2) in the adjustments menu there is a minimum volume override you will need to set in order to allow it to go quieter
3) mezelmods sells a plastic shooter lane protector, I just installed it yesterday. Seems to work great for original or CGC MB
On the scoop - if it’s got a Cliffy on it already, you should consider the Mantis protector. It goes inside the scoop and gives you a hard metal lip which protects the wood. Lined up correctly, you don’t need the top-of-playfield Cliffy (although it doesn’t hurt to have both)
Quoted from mbeardsley:I purposely have not used it. I want to earn "Lyman's Lament" myself...at least for the first time.
I've been trying for years, but have never been able to get it. And I HAVE gotten the 666 award in a regular game, but Lyman's Lament? forget it!
Quoted from Lounge:What’s the 666 award??
Let’s see... you have to get Drac, Bride, Creature, Mummy and Wolf Man modes started, and get Frank to start while they are all still running. It’s just a quick surprise award, but the DMD gets this “666!” Animation on it
Quoted from tracelifter:Done with Ebay, made the mistake of signing up for Paypal who then froze my CC.
They now want another card so I guess they can void that one also.
I closed my Ebay account and blocked all emails from them.
Now I cannot buy from any seller that uses PayEnemy.
I guess Ebay is controlled by PayEnemy and can do nothing to fix the problem.
Tons of stuff also on Etsy. In fact, it's easier to find certain items on there vs. Ebay
Quoted from Nepi23:I made a search for "Creature hole" in this topic without results, so I guess I am allowed to ask the question here, hopefully the matter is not already discussed to death - is there a Creature hole protector available and if so, please give advice where to get it. Atleast cliffy doesn't seem to have one.
Thanks!
Believe it or not, it's not really needed. That hole just doesn't get much traffic. I have a playfield from an original Williams MB, in which the scoop hole was just TRASHED - it looks like a huge oval instead of the roughly square shape. Drac trac is slightly damaged; area around the pops slightly worn. The creature hole is perfect.
Quoted from Lou-E-Gee:Wow, you went a little crazy with the mods there, your Monster Bash is starting to look a lot like Medieval Madness
LOL
Quoted from mostater:While cleaning the playfield, I managed to pop off the cover on one of the GI lights. Does anyone know if those covers just snap back on somehow or did I actually break it?[quoted image]
Better to just replace it. Lift the playfield, and unscrew from underneath. Usually those little tops are glued on
Quoted from mostater:I was thinking that would be the case so I started searching for the part on Marco and Comet but no luck. The part # is PIN-LMP-LEDRGB per the manual. I'll keep looking, but if that fails I may just end up gluing the top back on.
Isn't it just a #44 bayonet style bulb?
Quoted from ArcadeBar:They added the new bigger/color monitor and created new graphics on it, so I don’t understand why they couldn’t have at least provided the option to use either 3 or 10 letters for the high score entries.
The color and new graphics works the same way as the ColorDMDs do - it detects that the "scene" is to be shown, and it shows it. But it works on "top" of the existing code, in between the CPU and the DMD signals. No code change involved. Even something simple like adding a new way to enter high scores would require getting access to the original (likely lost) source code and modifying it. Almost no chance of that happening
Quoted from ArcadeBar:Hmmmm, I heard there were new graphic scenes/illustrations created to add to the newer screen, but maybe that’s inaccurate.
No, you're correct. That process is like this: show the (old) Frankenstein "He's alive" sequence. QUICK swap in the new HD graphics!
The code is still sending the commands to show the graphics, it's just that the board is intercepting the actual graphics that get shown, and replacing them on the fly with the new HD graphics. You can't do that with a score table or anything that's interactive.
Quoted from ArcadeBar:Ahhso gotcha, that makes sense thanks for clarifying.
Well everyone’s loving it at my little tavern, first time for us to have a machine there and it’s already got its groupies! The lighting, audio, and screen upgrades just make the machine feel so amazing. Definitely makes me want to get their AFMr SE one day too
No doubt!!
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Shepherdsville, KY