Hopkins, MN
Quoted from PinballGalore:spinner error on test report, yet works and registers spins just fine. what should be done? Thnx!
If it doesn't clear when you spin it, then next step is a factory reset.
LTG : )
(Topic ID: 222461)
Linked Games
Monster Bash (Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2018-
Monster Bash (Limited Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2018
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Monster Bash (Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2018
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Quoted from mbeardsley:Any advice/pointers would be appreciated.
The switch is hanging right behind Frank. You can't miss it. If you know how to adjust the wire part of the arm on a micro switch, it needs to come out a teeny tiny bit so he's more sensitive.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:But it is unclear to me how or where to adjust it. Any advice/pointers would be appreciated.
Red arrows point to wire arm of the micro mini switch.
LTG : )
DSC00208 (resized).JPGQuoted from mbeardsley:5 ) How do you bypass the "high power disabled" feature when the coin door is opened? I've tried pulling the switch out, but that doesn't seem to work. The manual does not describe this anywhere (and my Whitewater does not have the power lockout feature), so I don't know how this is supposed to function.
Open the coin door and you turn the high power inter lock switch and memory protect switch off. Pull out the knob on the high power interlock switch and you have high power with coin door open for testing and what not. Push the memory protect switch in and the message on the display goes away, whether you have high power on or off.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:That doesn't seem to work. If I open the coin door, and then pull the top white switch out (so that it stays in the out position), nothing seems to happen.
One thing happened. You still have HIGH POWER to check coils in test.
Quoted from mbeardsley:The only way that I can seem to get high power with the door open is to manually hold in the lower of the two white switches.
The lower switch - only has two wires to it right ? That has nothing to do with high power. That is your memory protect switch so you can make adjustments etc. with the coin door open, and when pushed in it turns off the coin door open message.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:No, I don't. The High power disabled message remains and none of the coils will activate.
Either the switch isn't working, or I am not understanding the process.
Lets start over.
Game turned on. Coin door closed. Coils work in game play ?
If yes, open coin door. Coils don't work ?
If yes, pull out the knob of the top switch and leave it locked out - they should now work in test.
Anything different from the above, then high power interlock switch with four wires to it is wired wrong, or the switch is broken.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:suspect the switch is broken.
Most likely. Though weird it works when pushed in.
LTG : )
Quoted from BanditBen:What can be done to fix this?
Could you post a picture please. Might need a little bend or something. With ball stuck and without.
LTG : )
Quoted from BanditBen:First game I played today...
Time for a gentle bend.
Tiny bit at a time.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:okay, but which part do you bend, and in which direction?
Where the ball is stuck. The top part of the wireform, just a small tug, up. To make room for the ball. The area where the middle green arrow is pointing.
LTG : )
47d8d7d918db37711dc6541bdc1155151952e91e.jpeg (resized).jpgQuoted from mbeardsley:I do have the Frank Table mod (which was put on by the previous owner). Could that be the cause of the problem? If so, is there a remedy?
Yes, that could be a problem. I'd check with the previous owner to find out what he did, different switch maybe ? Then the mod maker to see if they've had reports of any issues.
Switch is different on yours.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:Does your switch go into that hole in his back, or does it hit that little flat plate part below it? See Pic.
Your switch isn't hitting anything. See Pic.
LTG : )
DSC00209 (resized).JPGQuoted from mbeardsley:Does the CGC playfield glass seem noticeably thinner? The glass on my WhiteWater seems significantly thicker and somehow just beefier.
Measure it.
And your WhiteWater glass might not be original to the game.
Nothing to worry about.
Quoted from mbeardsley:When frank is lying on the table, what position are his arms supposed to be in? On mine they are already sticking up mostly. And then when he stands, they go up just a little bit more. Should his arms really be at his side when he is lying down?
Up.
LTG : )
Quoted from CFoote:I am curious if the CE's green display can be changed to the original plasma orange color we are used to on the older WMS/Bally games?
Page 1-11 in the manual. Red, Green, or Blue.
You can download the manual here - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf to help you before you get your game.
LTG : )
Quoted from CFoote:this is my NIB game ever since I joined this hobby 20+ year ago - I'm pretty psyched!
That is a great way to start your NIB experience.
Open that box up. The smell of fresh wood and new paint. Quite the experience. Enjoy it !
LTG : )
Quoted from Scot0308:Where do I go in service menu to adjust flipper strength?
Page 1-10 in the manual. The CGC menu.
Or :
LTG : )
Quoted from CFoote:Hey Lloyd, just a FYI in case anyone asks on the CE remakes, the display be be changed to match the "original" plasma orange DMDs. The display is actually pretty customizable with Red/Green/Blue adjustment for custom colors, but monochrome of course.
Chris
Thank you. I just checked the manual. Not having the games turned on here right now, I didn't check if it was like MMR or AFMR.
LTG : )
Quoted from PinballGalore:the spinner doesn’t register. It does so every once in a while.
Adjust the blade on the switch better. So the spinner When you do this, don't effect the rear part of the blade that pushes the tiny knob into the body of the game.
You need to bend the front end of the blade down a little so the arm on the spinner lifts it higher.
You could also loosen the screws holding the switch on a tiny bit and rotate the switch body up or down as needed to make it more sensitive.
Quoted from PinballGalore:I’ve noticed the top-wire switch, right behind drac, which Is essentially the right orbit entrance switch, also not responding (even manually)
Broken wire ? Tests - Switch Edge - does it work there ? Remove the switch and see, it could be stuck closed.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Strummy:Switches 63 and 73 register during test mode but not during game play.
In test - are you using a ball to hit them or a finger ? If finger, those switches probably just need adjusting.
LTG : )
Quoted from rjsoeps:If anyone knows more about the use of these playfields
Yes you can. A lot of work. No dimples underneath for all the light boards and stuff like that on the underside.
Built to Williams specs so flipper gap is the same.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from onemilemore:Or are CEs upgradable with screen size, too?
As far as I know, no.
Only MMR will have that option available.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:First, the plunger coil strength seems to be inconsistent.
Be sure it is hitting the center of the ball. The plunger/coil bracket can be loosened and turned, even shimmed up or down if needed and retightened.
Quoted from mbeardsley:Secondly, the trough kicker (that serves the ball) seems to have consistency issues as well.
http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:Do MBr and WOZ have a similar ball trough mechanism?
JJP games have the flap that stops the balls from falling out same as P2K. Otherwise the same as used in many later Williams DMD games, All the Jersey Jack Pinball Games, the Chicago Gaming remakes, and American Pinball games.
Not a common issue, but does occasionally pop up.
You can stand on the side of the game and watch the ball come up. If it hits the metal diverter and goes back down, that diverter needs to be bent out a tiny bit.
LTG : )
holding up OK?</blockquote
I've had one in commercial use since they came out. Spinner bracket and switch came a little loose. That has been it. Other than normal cleaning and waxing.
Bear in mind, I do help with their tech support.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Gorgar666:...lost Backbox key. I need a little star keyed Screwdriver bit. To remove the 2 wood screws. To replace the key tumbler. Any idea what type/size that is?....also have what appears to be moisture between the Translite and translate plastic panel??...
T 20 torx security bit. Many bit sets and driver sets have it. Available Home Depot, Amazon, Autozone, etc. etc.
Might not be moisture, could be static cling. Either way remove light tub/backglass/translite. Slide off plastic channels. Remove backglass and clean and dry. Carefully wipe down translite with microfiber cloth. Reassemble. If problem returns, repeat process. Before you reassemble lightly dust the glass with baby powder or talcum powder, blow it all off. Reassemble. That should cure it if it's a shiny translite.
LTG : )
Quoted from bigballa81:interested in getting a Monster Bash classic edition. Out of curiosity if you get the upgraded color display chip, can you switch between the color and the orange display in the settings, or would you have to take the chip out every time you wanted to switch from color to orange?
Page 1-11 in the manual. In the CGC menu you can turn the colorize on or off.
You can download the manual here - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from nicoy3k:Another related question, is there a way to run a test on the sarcophagus opening? Can’t seem to find it in the test menu.
Tests - Solenoids - 03 Mummy Coffin
LTG : )
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from bigballa81:Wondering if anyone can recommend the best place to buy the color chip upgrade for the classic edition online. Would have to ship to Canada. Thanks!
Your distributor who sold you the game.
Or Planetary Pinball Supply. If not on their website, email Sara - [email protected]
LTG : )
Quoted from guss:Can SE owners chime in if RGB can be turned on/off in settings or set to a steady color?
Yes they can. In the CGC menu. Starts on page 1-10 in the manual.
LTG : )
Quoted from smallstocks:Hi everyone. First time on this forum. After years of thinking about it I finally purchased my first pins, MBrLE and MMrLE. I'm taking delivery this weekend and can't wait!
Mike
Well Mike. You are in for a great weekend !
Congratulations !
LTG : )
Quoted from smallstocks:Guys who set it up came back and supposedly fixed it but now he doesn't go back down properly either.
Get them back there to fix it right.
Switch 28 is likely up the playfield behind Frank and he's stopping balls from getting past him.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Bublehead:Does the MBrLE trough use opto's?
Yes.
A few things to check. Is the shooter lane switch stuck down or binding in the slot in the playfield, and launch plunger isn't hitting the switch ? Only four balls in the game ?
Then turn the game off. Reseat the connectors to the ball trough boards and be sure they are pushed on tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from nicoy3k:Where can I order that?
http://www.passionforpinball.com/mbscoop.htm
Cliffy's the man !
LTG : )
Quoted from nicoy3k:I sent him an email and he hasn’t responded, strange ordering system lol...
Send him more.
He's usually pretty responsive. Though this has been a crazy year for everybody.
LTG : )
Quoted from BallPin:Hey guys, is there a way to play 2-player on Monster Bash? If so how do you do it?
One to 4 players.
Have enough credits on the game or have it set on free play.
Push the start button once for each player you want going. Once, twice, thrice, fource.
LTG : )
Quoted from rwalters21:whats the latest code rev? I think I'm at 1.06b
Check the first screen in the CGC menu. I don't think 1.06b exists.
LTG : )
Quoted from rwalters21:whats the latest code rev? I think I'm at 1.06b
That is the Williams code.
Don't go by it. It never changes. Go into the CGC menu. Page 1-10 in your manual. When you are in there the first screen shows what you are on.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:I have a new CGC MB playfield which I’ll possibly just use as wall art, but if it was to be used, could it be be put in an OG? I’m assuming yes, with some modification.
Bare playfield ? Yes. A lot of the dimples on the underside of the playfield you'd need for an original MB won't be there. You'd have to make your own.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from bigballa81:but when bending the wireform - do you just do this by hand
That is what I'd do so you don't get too aggressive and break stuff.
LTG : )
Quoted from SkaterVet:The center spinner often holds the ball up and causes it to roll back down. Is this normal. The bottom of my spinner is not parallel with the playfield. Maybe it needs to be adjusted?
Try a tiny bit of oil on both sides where the wires goes into the metal frame holding it.
Be sure it spins freely and switch isn't holding the arm of the spinner too tight.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from SkaterVet:The ball plunger on my MBr always shoots the ball against the left side of the shooter lane. It does not seem to cause any issue with game play. That said, my MMr shoots straight. Is this normal for MBr or is there an adjustment that can be made to the shooter mechanism?
Loosen the screws holding the bracket with the auto plunger and turn it a little to hit the center of the ball.
LTG : )
Quoted from Rhyme0rc:Other than using pliers to change its angle what is another solution someone can suggest for fixing it?
Please no.
The switch is mounted with two small screws. One into an elongated hole. You can loosen the screw a tiny bit and turn the switch body up or down as needed to make the switch more or less sensitive. Retighten the screws. Not too tight or you'll bind the switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Please no.
The switch is mounted with two small screws. One into an elongated hole. You can loosen the screw a tiny bit and turn the switch body up or down as needed to make the switch more or less sensitive. Retighten the screws. Not too tight or you'll bind the switch.
If the switch body can't be turned, then carefully adjust the wire part of the switch arm. See attached picture. Bend a tiny bit where the black arrows points.
LTG : )
switchadjust (resized).JPGQuoted from bigballa81:anyone got any tips for getting rid of backglass rattle?
A little black foam rubber weather stripping.
LTG : )
Quoted from PAPinballer:Would this also apply to the purple domes next to the monster? Mine popped off and I wasn't sure how I should put it back on. Didn't want to superglue it out of fear that I might need to replace the light in the dome, if ever.
A dab of hot glue. Can be removed if and when you need to.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from insight75:Hi all......I did a factory reset and the volume won't go lower than 8 and its quite loud at that level. How do I get it back to being able to lower it?
Adjustments A.1 #28 I believe, minimum volume over ride. Turn it opposite of what it is now.
LTG : )
Quoted from ArcadeBar:I didn’t see a setting to change the high score 3 initials to 10 characters, is this not an option on CGC machines? Thx
In the Williams programming. Not an option. Williams didn't want kids putting in dirty words/sentences.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from weaverj:noticed there's no ball save at start. is that normal?
Please check your settings in the game. In the manual page 1-39
A.2 01 Ball Save
A.2 02 Ball Save Time
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:While I love MBr for the most part, there are a few things on it that could have been done much better - and Phantom Flip is certainly one of them.
That was true of the original and I don't believe they can change the Williams end of things.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:I do wonder though, that if CGC actually did "buy" the rights to the Williams stuff (rather than just licensing them),
I don't think the rights can be bought.
Way back when Williams wanted to sell the pinball division. Anything that was used or could be used, in slot machines. Wouldn't go with. Which would include their source code and a lot of the pinball software.
LTG : )
Quoted from Eduardolicious:- is there a reason these four brightass GI leds next to the launcher need to be pointing in my face, or can i cover the tops of them or something? cuz good lord they are bright
Put a bulb condom on them.
Quoted from Eduardolicious:- the spotlight that points at Frank (attached to the back of the creature feature lights/sign)
Try Tests - All Lamps - see if it lights then. If not check if bulb is bad, and connector below playfield is plugged in.
Quoted from Eduardolicious:i tried swapping out the CR2032 coin cell battery in the back box in case that was the culprit but still no dice.
Please try cleaning new battery and holder.
LTG : )
Quoted from Eduardolicious:its the whole backbox/translite thats super glarey
Page 1-13 in the manual. You can adjust it in the CGC menu.
LTG : )
Quoted from KingMixer:What size/type of rubber do I need to order to replace it? And can I just replace the broken one, or should I replace both at the same time? Thanks for the help.
https://www.pinballlife.com/black-flipper-rubber.html
I'd replace the broken one. I'd replace the other if worn. I'd order a few spares.
LTG : )
Quoted from SkaterVet:Pop Bumpers Help:
Turn the game off. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
LTG : )
Quoted from SkaterVet:I do believe the spoons may be doing more than just resting on the rod. What would be the adjustment to lessen their contact?
Yes. Adjust down a tiny bit. May take a tweak or two to get it right.
LTG : )
Quoted from SkaterVet:how do you adjust down to create resting instead of firm contact between the rod and the spoon?
Bend the leaf blade with the spoon down a tiny bit, back towards the fiberboard spacers. Remove the bracket holding the leaf blades to get at it better, but harder this way and easier to screw up. Or a point bender. Me, I use my finger.
Clean them first just to be sure. A piece or paper between the leaf blades, gently hold them closed and pull the paper out.
LTG : )
Quoted from rai:Anyone know where I can find an LE nib?
Maybe call Mike http://pinballs.com/ or Chris https://www.kingpingames.net/ or http://www.planetarypinball.com/
LTG : )
Quoted from SkaterVet:Thanks for any suggestions toward fixing the error.
Page 1-54 in the manual.
One of those pesky errors that will likely clear itself with playing the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from CaptainRedEye:I just received my new MB LE and I want to make sure the software is up to date. Just to confirm, my machine is running version 1.0.2 and the most current is 1.0.3.
Go into the CGC menu to check. You picture is the Williams start up screen.
CGC Menu page 1-10 in the manual. First screen has what is in your game or -
1.0.3. is the latest.
LTG : )
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I really don't understand why the scoop is such an issue on the remakes? Didn't CGC use the original schematics and playfield dimples? My OG MB has never had this issue, and you can't even dial in the scoop coil strength.
Quoted from Indusguys:This is not a problem on every machine, I have never adjusted mine and it has worked perfectly from day one.
CGC did use the same.
And like the original. Some games had issues, some didn't. My original MB I finally elongated the holes on the assembly so I could turn it to throw the ball better.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jigfrog:My left flipper has started staying up when used. It will drop back down if I hit the left button a few times... or if I hit the right flipper once.
Any ideas?
Coil stop loose ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jigfrog:I don't see it getting stuck on anything underneath.
Is the pawl grabbing the end of stroke switch leaf blade ?
You may have to remove the plunger and see if the plunger/plastic link/pawl isn't swinging freely.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jigfrog:Feels like it's moving freely right up until the end... maybe it is the sleeve already.
Something is binding. At the end does it still have a tiny bit of up and down play - not too much ?
Easy to check the sleeve. Turn the game off. Remove the two allen head screws holding the coil stop on. Remove coil stop, slide coil off of the plunger. Shove the sleeve out of the coil. Dirty, chipped, cracked ? End of plunger not worn or mushroomed or have a sharp edge ? The coil stop - the raised part that sits inside the coil - is it loose ?
LTG : )
Quoted from happyclan:Does anyone have some close pics of that area,
Does this help ?
LTG : )
DSC00386 (resized).JPGQuoted from happyclan:Question. Near the red flasher, on the ball wire return, does the ball roll over the plastic above the jet bumper?
The wireform where the ball rolls is above the plastic. So the ball never contacts it.
LTG : )
Quoted from happyclan:I'm saying if I push the ball UP the wire guide I hit that plastic lip.
Shouldn't be doing that.
LTG : )
Quoted from happyclan:Should I just place spacers where I need some lift to clear the jet bumper?
I'd try that.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Medic:Can someone tell me how to turn off topper lights in LE?
Did you try page 1-13 in the manual - Upper Strip ?
LTG : )
Quoted from BAMcDonald:2) Frankie faceplants. He doesn't seem to stay hooked in and falls forward face planting after a Frankie multiball.
See the tab circled in red. Yours is likely on the wrong side of the opening. The tab prevents him from falling all the way forward.
LTG : )
DSC00416 (resized).JPGQuoted from BAMcDonald:Any help with this frustrating issue would be appreciated.
Look at my picture in post #7578 and note the black metal part is bent so it's in the center of the leg. Yours needs to go over more. Not just the tab, but the whole metal blade the tab is on.
Check out the yellow arrows I put on your picture.
LTG : )
8df20e0aac8e76063623d536610221b073a9383d (resized).jpgQuoted from Jigfrog:Check switch F7 center spinner
Is the switch and bracket on tight ?
Tests - Switch Edge - raoll a ball though the spinner - does it register on the screen ? If not adjust accordingly. More sensitive if need be, less if it's stuck closed.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jigfrog:I'm not sure how to make it more sensitive.
Learn how to adjust a micro mini switch.
Look at it. You can see what needs to happen. Watch as the spinner turns, what the wire sticking out the side does to the arm on the switch. Every time the spinner goes around the wire sticking out the side of the spinner pushes the arm up once. So the end of the arm where it contacts the wire of the spinner needs to be bent down a tiny bit so the wire on the spinner lifts the arm of the switch up more. A tweak or two should do it.
You can also check if loosening the screws holding the switch body a little, allow the switch body to be turned a bit - back end higher front end lower. That would do it too. Retighten the screws and not too tight that might bind the switch.
If you are uncomfortable doing this. Seek help. A little hands on help can go a long way towards learning more about your game.
LTG : )
Quoted from SitnBull:any help would be apprecited.
Pull and check fuse F103 lower right corner of the driver board in the back box. If blown replace it. 4 amp slow blow 20mm fuse.
If blown. Please lift playfield up and pull out and rest on the front of the cabinet. Inspect the auto launch coil, wires, and lugs. See if anything came in contact with the lockdown bar receiver when the playfield is lowered.
LTG : )
Quoted from SitnBull:MB owners have you had any experience with it not finding balls in the trough? only 10 plays on it and
They aren't rolling into position to get kicked up for play and for multiballs ?
Please check the plunger/coil that kicks the balls up to the shooter lane. If the plunger is sticking up a tiny bit too high, balls won't roll into position right. The plunger/coil are fastened to a bracket. This bracket is fastened to the end of the ball trough. 4 screws in elongated holes on the opposite side of the coil. You can loosen them and lower the plunger a tiny bit. Don't go too far down or up.
That should fix you up.
LTG : )
Quoted from SitnBull:Empty balls test doesn't fire the coil.
Quoted from SitnBull:Flipper coil test wont fire flipper coils either.
I'd check fuse F103 - bottom fuse of three fuses on the driver board in the head, lower right edge.
LTG : )
Quoted from mostater:I noticed these 2 posts (circled). Not sure if something is supposed to screw into each, but I don't think so.
Neither of those two posts gets a screw.
Hang onto the screw in case it turns up missing from something else.
LTG : )
Quoted from SitnBull:All the fuses look good including 103
Look good as in pulled and checked with a meter ?
Those 20mm fuses can be bad and not look blown.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jeffster:Should the coffin open an close during the test?
Yes. Pull out the high power interlock switch and test it.
If it doesn't work. Go over basics - is it stuck on something ? Broken wire at the coil ?
LTG : )
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:Does the connector piece look normal to you?
Looks like the one end didn't get flattened while it was in the part to stay in place.
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:I am wondering if CGC sells the backglass unit as one whole piece
CGC doesn't sell parts. http://www.planetarypinball.com/ Planetary Pinball Supply sells the remake parts. If not on their site contact Sara.
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:if I should just go to a custom glass shop to get it repaired?
If you do be sure and get tempered glass.
LTG : )
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:Do you think I’ll be able to flatten that piece?
Hammer, punch, block of metal to pound on. Yes.
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:I opened up a ticket.
I alerted it to Edwin to assist you.
LTG : )
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:I'm not sure how to hammer that other end flat with the gate installed on the playfield.
You'd have to remove the gate from the playfield to hammer that end flat.
I'd try a tiny cable tie on the bad end and see if that keeps it in place. Even a dab of hot glue. Things you could try while it's in the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jigfrog:Might have stopped after I fixed the center spinner.
Did stop. No more error alert.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from TJG81296:Any ideas what would stop the switches from functioning? Should they show in the switch test list?
Tests - Switch Edge - do they register on screen when pushed closed ?
If not check if they are stuck closed, check for broken wire at leaf blade switches, and follow the wiring to be sure their connector is pushed onto board tight.
Quoted from TJG81296:Do you all put loctite on these if they back out?
Not first time. Might consider Locktite blue if they keep falling out.
LTG : )
Quoted from mostater:I'm not particularly skilled at soldering,
Practice at a work bench or table. Use scrap wire and solder. Youtube is littered with short how to videos. You can teach yourself in minutes how to heat a joint and let the solder flow into it.
Or get the new switch. And swap the arm from the new switch onto the one currently in the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:1. The left trough bumper keeps triggering and going off without a pinball even near it... constantly throughout the game. If I hit the left flipper I can make that bumper go off sometimes as well. This was not an issue until now. Any ideas or should I open up a ticket?
The left slingshot kicker ? If so -
Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:2. The ball often doesn't sit properly on the plunger so it often comes back down the shooting lane. Looks like the plunger strength is not the issue, but rather how the pinball sits on the plunger after being ejected from the trough.
If it's hanging up on the switch in front of the plunger, adjust it so it doesn't effect the plunger but still works when a ball rolls on it ? Or the plunger isn't hitting the center of the ball ? If loosen the screws holding the bracket/coil/plunger and aim the plunger better and retighten the screws.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:more details for this,
Look at it. Roll a ball down the shooter lane to the auto plunger. Does it stop on the plunger ? Good - switch is okay.
Does the plunger look like it will hit the center of the ball when activated ? If not. Lift playfield up and pull out and rest on the front of the cabinet so you can ascertain what needs to be loosened to turn the bracket where it needs to go. Only a few screws hold it.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:No, the problem I have is with the loading of the ball INTO the launcher. The ball fails to reliably make it into the shooter lane from the trough below. I suspect that the ball is not sitting in the trough properly and/or it is not being kicked "cleanly" by the up-kicker.
It's hard to tell what is really happening, as you can't really see it with the playfield down in place, and you obviously can't try it with the playfield up.
Sometimes it loads correctly on the first try, sometimes it will take several attempts. I have tried adjusting the coil strength each direction, but that does not seem to help.
Easy fix. The ball shoots up and hits the deflector that should send it to the shooter lane but instead goes back down.
Problem can occur on any game using a Williams style ball trough. JJP uses it, AP uses it, CGC uses it, etc.
Though this features a WOZ, it's the same fix - http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
Bend the deflector out a tiny bit. And you may still need to play with the strength. Weaker or stronger.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:Unfortunately, I have already tried that, and it didn't help.
Coil loose ? Plunger tip worn or broke ? And the whole plunger/coil/bracket is fastened to the bracket on the end of the ball trough by four screws which make it adjustable up or down. Don't go too far either way. To high and balls can't roll into position, too low and you don't get a good kick. You might play with that.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Purdue:Can you still get one new?
Check with distributors to see if any have one in stock.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Pizzaman13:I’m trying to make sure I have the latest update. How can I tell?
Go into the CGC menu. Page 1-10 in the manual or my AFMR video will help. 1.0.3 is the current.
LTG : )
Quoted from woody76:Any ideas?
Tab circled in red got out of position. Gently bend the whole part over a bit so the tab is more to the right. ( after you get the tab in front of the metal guide )
LTG : )
frank (resized).jpgQuoted from Gorgar666:Phantom Flip doesnt work, after collecting all letters. It is not disabled. Edge test detects as it should. I'm lost.
Try a factory reset and see if it comes back.
Quoted from Gorgar666:Does CGC support activity help these kinda issues?
Yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:I don’t really mind but why does the computer have a mind of its own?
If you have it set to auto percentage. Yes it does. Things get easier or harder depending on how you are doing.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:If you have it set to auto percentage. Yes it does. Things get easier or harder depending on how you are doing.
Page 1-34 in the manual A.1 05 Replay System - auto or fixed.
Page 1-39 Extra Ball Percentage.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:Quick question. So original Williams Monster Bash had an issue with dracs feet causing SDTM.
Yes.
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:So did CGC use original drac figure
Made to Williams specs, yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:does it matter
No. Fires the same facing either way. Lugs away from the lockdown bar receiver is a good idea.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:does it matter the part numbers don’t match?
No. Coil used is a bit stronger.
LTG : )
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I don't have the manual
Quoted from mbeardsley:The manual can be found here : https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf
mbeardsley posted the link. ( thank you )
All the remake manuals can be downloaded from chicago-gaming.com
LTG : )
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Thanks. It's so rare for me to have a machine so new, that I instantly default to the pinball database.
At least you went looking. Too many don't try.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from smaynard:any assistance would be much appreciated.
Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Thoughts?
Check fuse for solenoids on board in the backbox. And be sure the high power interlock on the coin door is held in by the flap on the coin door that pushes it.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Check fuse for solenoids on board in the backbox.
F103 - lower right corner of the driver board.
LTG : )
Quoted from FiatsRUs:The fuse checked ok and the coin door interlock works. I also pulled out the interlock service button. Nothing.
How about fuse F108 ?
Are the wires on the high power interlock on tight ?
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from bigballa81:I'm somewhat of a noob on this too - do you have to change the battery regularly
No. Once every few years or so. Probably longer than that.
LTG : )
Quoted from C0nstantyne:do I need to contact CGC for warranty?
NO.
Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.
LTG : )
Quoted from moat-pin:Any ideas how to correct?!
Play a bunch of games on it. The machine learns the shots. Then will do them for you.
LTG : )
Quoted from golfingdad1:Curious.... maybe I am reading mine wrong, when turned on .
1.06B....it is an LE .Got it now I see it ......thanks always .
1.06B is Williams software.
In the CGC menu you see what is in your game.
Glad you figured it out. I followed up for others.
LTG : )
Quoted from arcyallen:I know I may go to pinball hell for disagreeing with LTG but that neck is too high.
Disagreeing is fine. We are all just trying to help.
I went by the one in my game. You must have the rare low neck version. 
Checking the game and manual, it doesn't look adjustable.
LTG : )
DSC00493 (resized).JPGQuoted from cmdestin:Any tips/suggestions?
This :
Quoted from LukyDuck:Clean it up and keep playing. It is a normal occurrence.
From rings, flipper plungers, all kinds of things produce that or attract it.
Main thing to keep an eye out for would be broken metal, loose screws, or brass dust. Those are things I'd look into.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from moat-pin:Any ideas?
Follow the wires from the lights that are out to the board they go to. Anything unplugged ?
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from Napoleon:Seems an odd omission.
Williams didn't think of it in the years before they closed.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from chickenscratch:I can only describe the ball movement as obvious magnet-like deflection
Harry Williams said it best. The Ball is wild.
It is rolling and spinning. Ball hits a clean spot, waxed spot, dirty spot, etc. etc.
Welcome to the wonderful world of pinball.
LTG : )
Quoted from chickenscratch:*Eh, doesn’t look like I can (or don’t see how) to post video here.
Post on Youtube or somewhere and post the link here.
LTG : )
Quoted from chickenscratch:Geesh, just realized I'm an idiot and your Learn to Google (LTG) at the end of your comment was your damn username/signature... unless
You're not an idiot. It is my damn username/signature. From about 1975, my old video game initials. Way older than Google.
Though there has been a few times where people thing it means to Learn To Google and then they get mad at me.
Todd Andersen included it in a Pinball News article. Scroll down a little to read it.
https://www.pinballnews.com/sites/ssbilliards/index.html
LTG : )
Quoted from Bublehead:What has been your experience on LE's? Have you seen anyone else putting in pf tickets for dimpling?
No.
LTG 
Quoted from golfingdad1:What do you guys think compliment this game side by side or even on both sides ?
This works.
But I'm prejudiced.
LTG : )
cgcupdate (resized).JPG 3 weeks later
Quoted from J_Striker:On startup I get an error for F8 U.L. Flipper
Tests - Switch Edge - push left flipper button in slowly. First lower opto should register, then upper opto ( F8 ) should register. Lane changes, initials, etc. See if it works, needs cleaning, if opto interrupter is moving enough to trigger it.
Swap left and right flipper button opto boards to see if problem moves. ( bad opto )
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from bossk4hire:Frankenstein isn't registering all the hits when he's up.... anyone have some ideas?
Adjust the switch behind him. Make adjustments past the body of the switch so you don't effect the tiny knob the blade pushes into the switch body.
Be sure the bracket holding Frank hasn't slipped out of the slot holding him.
LTG : )
DSC00209 (resized).JPGfranktablefix (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Go into test mode and see if you can get it down raise and lower on its own, not in the game
Please go into Tests - T.18 Frank - run in up and down. See what he's doing. If he or the targets don't move.Targets are T.17 up/down Bank. If they aren't moving. Check to be sure the motors are still plugged in. On the targets, there is a cam behind them the motor turns in an oblong groove, check if it came out. If the targets get bent forward that can happen.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Do you know by chance if I can swap my light boards out on my classic so I can get a brighter light in there?
The RGB GI kit can be installed in a Classic MMR. It is GI only, not all the lights or pop bumpers.
LTG : )
Quoted from docquest:Nerdygrrl was asking about upgrading to her MBr CE, not MMr. I'm interested in this as well as I also have a MBr CE.
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
No kits available for MBr
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from northvibe:but with the MBr classic did anyone upgrade to color gi?
No kit available for it.
Kits were for MMR only so those games weren't left behind with some of the improvements.
LTG : )
Quoted from Nikrox2:Is this a switch adjustment issue
It's right behind Frank.
LTG : )
frank (resized).JPG 3 weeks later
Quoted from northvibe:is there any known issues with working on him before I pull the glass and manual?
Check if he's binding on plastics. Run him up and down in frank table test.
LTG : )
Quoted from northvibe:Ran test and it seems to be working now.
I'd put a tiny drop of oil on the metal moving parts that lift his table up and down.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from mbeardsley:exactly what is it that took you a year to make?
Grand Champion 558 million.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Photopin:I went back, reformatted my card and tried it again. When the install program came up on the machine it said Current Version: none.
So, I reinstalled 1.0.3.B6.
It said it was successful, but when rebooted it doesn't get past the screen I showed before. It stays on for about a minute, goes out, then comes back on again.
I'd start all over. Format the micro SD card. New download of the update. Stick it on the micro SD card. Insert it in the game.
See if that does it.
LTG : )
Quoted from The_Swearwolf:Can anyone who has done this assist?
I haven't done it. But I wonder if under the playfield they loosen the popper bracket, slide the washer between the underside of the playfield and edge of bracket. And then retighten the screws.
LTG : )
Quoted from golfingdad1:Is this in regards to the scoop throwing ball down the middle . Recently had become an issue with mine as well. Have tried to adjust 3 or 4 xs.
Yes.
Easy cure. Remove balls. ( from game, not yours ) Turn game off. Lift playfield up and lean back.
See the assembly that pops the ball up and down the middle ? Remove it. Two wood screws, one machine screw, one locknut. You can kind of leave it hang there. There are four holes that hold it to the playfield, two on top and two on the bottom. Put a thick washer on the left top and left bottom, on the side that touches the playfield. I taped the washers in place so as not to lose them.
Put the assembly back in, replace screws and locknut. Now it leans to the left a little. ( like the one on AFM )
You can play around in the CGC menu with strength. I set mine to Min. Now it kicks the ball to the left flipper.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:Any help would be appreciated.
Problems like that are usually related to flipper button switches.
I'd swap your left and right flipper button opto boards. See if problem moves.
I clean mine with a damp Q Tip.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:I have the same problem as Flipper_Ripper with the scoop...exactly how is this related to flipper opto buttons?
How does the scoop firing "lamely" sometimes, be caused by the flippers?
I made a mistake. I read it as the flipper went limp when the ball hit it. I'm sorry for that.
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!
I'll try again. Please check wiring to coil. Reseat it's connector nearby. Be sure the cone for it in the backbox is on tight. And check inside the scoop for any obstruction.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:do you think a sleeve would cause that limp eject?
Yes. I'd check the end of the plunger, see if it has a sharp edge or mushroomed. And the top of the coil stop, it it's not flat any more but cupped.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:So the tip of the plunger is a bowl, sharp edge around the bowl. Is that normal
Normal.
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:Is the coil stop the bracket with the two screws or the round piece at the end of the plunger?
Yes.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from t2000tjt:Anyone know the height in inches of the LE with topper?
About 84 inches.
LTG : )
Quoted from t2000tjt:I have 84 1/4” haha. Hmmmmm
Worst case screw the rear leg levelers in a bit. The front ones, remove the nut so the screw can go further into the leg and put the nut on the top side. To help you get a good playfield pitch.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Tenner:I did notice the plastic cover over the ball rails for Bride that runs directly beneath the casket is touching the bottom of the casket.
I'd deal with that first.
LTG : )
Quoted from marsattx:how to fix?
The arm of the switch needs to be adjusted so it doesn't trap the ball and still works.
You might be able to loosen the two screws a little holding the switch down and turn the body of the switch a tiny bit clockwise and then retighten the screws, not too tight.
If it doesn't move, then you need to gently bend the arm of the switch a little. So it lets the ball roll by but still triggers the switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:can someone post a picture of where they placed their washer to prevent the SDTM from the scoop?
No picture. Loosen the screws holding the assembly to the playfield. Push the washer in the left side between the bracket and the playfield.
When the playfield is down, looking at the scoop it should now lean to the left a little.
LTG : )
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:I’m also not sure where to turn the power up in the menus. Feel like I went through everything and didn’t see that option
Page 1-10 in the manual.
Game turned on. Hold the escape button for five seconds or so. This brings up the CGC menu. Every time you push the escape button you advance one screen. Use the "-" or "+" to go up and down the screen. Hit the enter button to change one.
Keep hitting the escape button to get back to the attract mode.
LTG : )
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:This game is making me so mad.
My original Monster Bash was incurable with this.
I removed the scoop bracket. Stripped the parts off of it. The four holes used to fasten it to the playfield. I elongated them. Cleaned it up. Put it all back together. Put it back in the game turning the whole assembly clockwise and tightened the screws.
This pointed it at the left flipper no matter what.
Figure out ahead of time which direction to turn it and what shape to make the holes to do this.
LTG : )
Quoted from TheBeefSupreme:Oh man, ha I really hope I don’t have to do all that.
Half hour of work and no more problems ?
Use a drill with a drill bit the same size as the holes. Rock it back and forth to gouge out the holes wider.
LTG : )
Quoted from dddanielll:Would someone be willing to measure the instruction apron card for me when they have a chance?
5 7/8 by 3 1/8
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:where can i find tilt bob kit? i recently purchased a machine that is missing the thing that holds up the tilt bob
Marco has the clip you could use. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14653
LTG : )
Quoted from Pizzaman13:Frankie had an accident. Not sure how it happened but more importantly, I’m not sure how this is supposed to reattach. Any suggestions or pictures appreciated.
See picture. Looks like the tab on Frank flipped out of the slot in the table.
Might need to be bent a little so it doesn't happen again.
LTG : )
franktablefix (resized).jpg 1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Not sure how to test the proxy sensors in switch edge
Switch edge - roll a ball over them.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from golfingdad1:Any way to just have the topper lit, when not being played . So it doesn't flash every 3 minutes .
No.
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from Zablon:So my Frank has started to need to be bashed harder to register.
Adjust the switch behind him to be more sensitive. Balls bashing Frank may have bent it a little less sensitive.
LTG : )
Quoted from ExSquid:Heading to home depot today to pick up some weather stripping. Also ordered that washer from marco.
Home Depot out of washers ?
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from Bublehead:Hey, my Topper on my LE stopped working.
Hey what stopped working ?
The lights ?
If so remove the front on the right speaker. Plug them back in. Try and get some slack on the wires so they stay plugged in.
LTG : )
Quoted from ExSquid:Can you please enlighten me where I can find the setting ? I’m lost. I’d appreciate it
Go one more screen. Left Popper ( by creature ) Right Popper and Right Popper Timing.
Every time you push the left button you advance one screen.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Bublehead:I may open a ticket even though I am way out of warranty.
Please open one anyway. See if the engineer has any ideas.
LTG : )
4 months later
Quoted from SwissMTNAlien:and a pic of the pieces I found under the playfield.
Switch arm broke.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-68.html
You can swap the arm off of the new switch onto your old switch body if you want.
LTG : )
Quoted from Zablon:What exactly is the best way to adjust this?
Bend at the black arrows, opposite of the direction the red and white arrows point to. So it sticks out a little more and Frank hits it better.
LTG : )
switchadjust (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from Dane186:still no response
Please PM me the ticket number and I'll alert them.
Thank you,
Lloyd
3 weeks later
Quoted from Filimurz:Pinball Life is sending me a new coil.
Please remember to remove the diodes and get the wires in the right spots.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from pghpinfan:Where can I find a replacement
https://www.planetarypinball.com/ Is the source to buy CGC Remake parts not under warranty. Contact them. If not on the website call or email them.
LTG : )
Quoted from dddanielll:Can somebody take a photo of the order and stack of plastic washers on the bottom / mech side of the standup Frankenstein bank?
I was going to take a picture for you and discovered mine was in pieces. I found the two thick white nylon washers, nothing else.
So being 11pm and hardware stores aren't open. I studied the manual and used parts on hand.
The white nylon washers go below the large metal plate that goes up and down, on the posts. On top I put small fender washers, and clips that hold springs on trap door flaps like on MMR and Hobbit. I didn't have any tiny "E" clips.
This holds the metal plate that moves up and down level to the base plate. And works quite nicely in test and in game play.
I have a couple pictures, sorry the one showing where the white nylon washer is, is a little blurry.
LTG : )
DSC00791 (resized).JPGDSC00792 (resized).JPG 1 month later
Quoted from mbrave77:I guess just check the leaf switches?
I'd check if the coil stop is on tight. Then clean the flipper button optos.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from scampa123:I was wondering though, is there a way to lower the default high scores? I’ve reset high scores, reset H.S.T.D. but the default high scores are still out of my range at the moment. Is there a way to lower them?
It's tricky and may take a couple tries.
Go into Adjustments. High Score Adjustments A.4 then in 05, 06, 07, 08, lower them.
Then get out of adjustments back to attract mode. Then hold the Test button for 5 to 10 seconds or so.
Any kind of luck that will do it.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from ripit:I am wondering if someone can answer a question for me. On the controller board in the back box is cr10 which is red supposed to be lit.
Page 1-56 in the manual. Normally off. On at boot up.
LTG : )
Quoted from ripit:screen said no playfield hardwire connection .
If still going on. Please try reseating the cable from the playfield board to the small board in the head. Both ends. And be sure they are pushed in tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:- 3x have tilted out when Dracula is in play. Any thoughts on why this is or how to correct? No, am not hitting, shaking or doing anything to machine. Only tilts during Dracula. Have tilt setting in menu set to a 5.
Disconnect one wire to tilt thingy and see if problem goes away. If so put wire back. Lower tilt bob as much as possible. Be sure it is centered in the ring - brackets can be moved or bent as needed. Be sure leg bolts are tight, be sure bolt for leg leveler to leg is tight.
Quoted from FLNetMAn62:- How do we reset the High scores to 0 or a non-default setting or to numbers of our choice? Went through manual, did a reset of HSTD.
Tricky, might need a few tries to get it. Go into Settings - A.4 High Score adjustments. A.4 11, 12, 13, and 14. Lower them there. Then back out of settings and back to attract mode. Then hold the high score reset button ( enter diagnostic button ) down for ten seconds or so.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:I am not a big fan of the bride head "popping".
If they were going to spend the money for a triggered coil, I wish they had spent it on a mechanism that would affect the ball somehow, instead of something that just makes an annoying noise.
A simple right-side outlane gate that can return the ball to the shooter lane would have been a better choice.
The popping Martians in AFM and "Party Monsters" in Elvira are similarly a waste of resources.
It's Williams fault.
LTG : )
Quoted from Oaken:Any suggestions?
I'd try cleaning with alcohol or something and then reseat the connector. Be sure it is on tight. Maybe a dab of hot glue.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from JohnTTwo:Figured out the bushings are for Frank up and down
Yours are very worn and E clip holding a washer over them is broken.
LTG : )
Quoted from JohnTTwo:Figured out the bushings are for Frank up and down
Page 2-28 and page 2-29 in the manual.
https://www.pinballlife.com/monster-bash-slide-roller.html?Category_Code= bushing.
3/16 E ring. 7/32 X 7/16 18 gauge washer.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from xAerox:Is there a method to adjust Franky's sensitivity in MBr?
Adjust the arm on the switch behind him.
LTG : )
DSC00209 (resized).JPG 2 weeks later
Quoted from JohnTTwo:LTG I need you. Left flipper flips but then goes crazy flipping rapidly about 10 times then drops. All this while holding the button in the entire time.
Broken wire or solder joint at the coil lugs, and dig around the thin wires from the coil windings to the coil lugs, easy to have a crack or break you can't see.
Less common bad coil, issue inside the wrapper you can't see or fix.
You could swap left and right flipper coils, but if you get that far I'd just replace the coil.
LTG : )
Quoted from JohnTTwo:What is the best way to remove the coating from the coil wires?
Scrape, sand, file, hold gently with a pliers and pull. Heat up with a soldering iron and try flux to get solder to stick. Etc. Etc.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from JohnTTwo:where do you source the flipper fuses from?
I usually add them to an order so I have them on hand.
Planetary Pinball Supply, Pinball Life, Marco Specialties.
LTG : )
Quoted from JohnTTwo:Thanks have you ever found them local
No. But then because of not finding them, haven't looked for years either.
LTG : )
Quoted from dtmail209:For the remake what do you do for maintenance/cleaning?
You'll get lots of answers. I wouldn't use magic erasure.
I use Novus 2 ( this is commercial use, home use Novus 1, swuirt on a micro fiber cloth, clean, then polish when dry. Follow with a hard automotive carnauba wax, not liquid. I used to use Maguires Hard Yellow was, though I did switch to Blitz from Pinball Life.
If money is no object use this wax - https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12701W-100-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B016XVD8D0/ref=sr_1_10
LTG : )
Quoted from dtmail209:How often do you wax? Think I need to do so after 1500 games?
I don't go by game count.
You can see when it's dirty. Clean and wax then.
LTG : )
Quoted from JohnTTwo:How long does it take to put in the metal pull down in a pop bumper. Lower right, both metal post snapped off by the nutz.
Depends on your tools. And which one, you might have to remove the wireform over it, or at least loosen to get out of the way to remove the two screws holding the pop bumper cap on. 11/32nds nut holds them down over slingshot plastic. Remove the pop bumper cap.
I use a 5/16 nut driver below the playfield. Two nuts on the pop bumper ring rods. Yours are snapped off, hold what's left with a vice grip to remove the nut. Should be a couple washers too.
Slide the busted pop bumper ring up and out. Slide the new one in. Below the playfield fiddle around and line up the holes on the metal yoke and fiber board yoke that hooks to the plunger. Stick the washers on then the nuts. When you fasten the nuts, finger tight is good enough. Over tighten bends the rods and they break off prematurely.
Half hour should do it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:POP switch skirt seemed like it needed a good amount of force to push it down by hand, is that normal on this game?
No, the pop bumper skirt might be the issue. Sticking on the pop bumper body. You'd have a lot to disassemble to fix. How is it compared to the other pop bumper skirts ?
Also check below the playfield that the leaf blade switch isn't the issue. The rod from the skirt is centered on the spoon on the switch and moves freely.
LTG : )
Quoted from SiN13:It's like it didn't come in at the pop bumper with enough momentum to trigger it.
Make sure the pop bumper skirt moves freely up and down. Then check the leaf blade switch below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. Clean the leaf blade contacts, a piece of paper between them and gently hold closed and pull the paper out. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
Clean the leaf blade contacts, a piece of paper between them and gently hold closed and pull the paper out.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:The skirt rod is centered on the spoon I remember checking that while gap adjusting.
Make sure it moves freely on the spoon. No dirt or any plastic flash binding it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:1) Do these look like original legs?
Yes.
Quoted from Mully911:The feet push up and cover the adjustment nut making it impossible to adjust height without raising the game off the floor.
When the game is in the air, the foot hangs low enough to get at the nut part of the leveler.
You don't really need that nut above the leveler on a new leg and leveler. The nut above loosen it and spin down. Grab the leg leveler and turn up or down as needed. Retighten the nut to the leg.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:So the leveling cannot be performed while it's standing on the ground like some other games I have. Thanks
You can get different levelers.
I never level mine when sitting on the floor. Hard on the floor. Easier to stick a knee under the game and lift it up a bit.
LTG : )
Quoted from Swoods5688:Need some help here.
It can be tricky. PM me your email address and I'll email you a pdf with a little better instructions.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from KidDynamite:Can someone enlighten me on “the spring washer method” and plunger replacement? Sorry, pretty new to this.
A round concave spring ( like a concave washer made of spring steel ) that sits between the coil and coil stop, thus holding the coil firm so it doesn't move.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:A round concave spring ( like a concave washer made of spring steel )
Like this.
LTG : )
washer2 (resized).jpgQuoted from KidDynamite:Does it install between 2 and 6?
Top or bottom of 2 ( the coil ) in this application.
Myself, if 6 was a coil stop and not the coil sleeve running through, then I'd put it on the bottom ( 6 )
LTG : )
Quoted from KidDynamite:So 6 in the diagram is not a proper coil stop, just a bracket? So the spring washer should mount above 2 in this case? I’m guessing 3 should stay flush with 2?
In the case of this kickout, the spring washer can go on either end of the coil. It doesn't matter.
If ( big if ) it were a coil stop there, I'd stick the spring washer there.
A coil stop lasts longer and holds the spring washer better than a coil sleeve. But in this case since you have the coil sleeve on both ends of the coil. Put it on which ever end you want.
LTG : )
Quoted from KidDynamite:I saw a video maybe a week or so back from someone saying the flipper gap on the remake was wider than the original, is that true?
No. Same company made both playfields.
LTG : )
Quoted from WombatPinball:So has anybody else heard the rumors that CGC and Planetary pinball will not be working together in the future for any other remakes.
Just unsubstantiated rumors here on Pinside.
LTG : )
Quoted from WombatPinball:I’ve heard that Planetary may be in with another party
They have other projects going on. Like the Funhouse kit, Fathom, etc. etc.
Has no bearing on PPS/CGC remakes.
CGC is working on other things too.
LTG : )
Quoted from WombatPinball:I did find it strange though that MBr seemingly only had the one run of it and there wasn’t ever a second.
MMR is the only one that had a second run, the Royals. Which like the remakes that came after MMR had the big display, speaker lights, RGB lighting, and topper. Which also made those three kits available for early CGC remake customers. So their MMR could look like AFMR and MBR.
And another run of MMRs is coming.
Way back when this started there was talk of 10 remakes, reduced to six. So unless things change, there are only two more remakes coming.
Only time will tell. Only CGC knows for sure. Only thing we know is CGC is building CCR, added another line, and Pulp Fiction is coming.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from dtmail209:‘check switch 18 shooter lane’ code.
Ball kicks up out of ball trough. Goes to shooter lane. Switch #18 Shooter Lane switch is there.
Go to Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball from the rear to the front to close the switch. Does it register on the screen ? Does it stay closed ?
May need simple adjusting.
Quoted from dtmail209:I have a friend that rebuilds machines,
Get him to give you some hands on help so you don't make things worse. Easy to adjust, yet easy to make things worse.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Johan:Can they easy reset the total plays?
You mean like go into Utilities and reset audits and stuff ? Do a factory reset ?
Yup, easy to do.
Amount of plays doesn't matter. It always comes down to condition.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Anders2642:Any other ideas?
Take a pliers and bend the upper part of the scoop to aim it better.
Gentle and only need a little bit.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:Or should it read closed when ball is touching the plunger?
Plunger isn't a switch.
See the shooter lane switch, right in front of the plunger - sticking up through a slot in the playfield ? As long as a ball is on it, it should report on the screen as closed. And the ball should stay on it keeping it closed until it is shot into play.
Try and figure out why the ball is rolling too far, or why the switch is opening up.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:Thank you.. so the ball does close the switch but rolls too far on its way to rest on the plunger and the switch opens again. Is there a way to adjust the plunger rest position to be further out?
Has the switch ever been replaced with the wrong switch ?
No real way to adjust the plunger.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:so the ball does close the switch but rolls too far on its way to rest on the plunger and the switch opens again.
Here is a picture from a MMR. Same thing as your MBR.
Is your coil sleeve broken or in the coil wrong facing the wrong direction or the wrong coil sleeve ?
LTG : )
DSC00858 (resized).JPG 2 weeks later
Quoted from Mully911:Any thoughts on what to check?
Page 1-57 in the manual. Fuse list. Check LEDs next to fuse to see if fuse is good.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:I repeated opening the coin door
Try this please. Game turned on. Open coin door. Pull out the top fat white switch's knob on the left inside of the coin door. That enables the high power interlock switch.
Then play a game. See if everything works.
If so the metal flap on the coin door that pushes the switches closed isn't doing a good job. Bend it over a little so it closes them better.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mully911:Wouldn't the "coin door open" display on the screen if the switch were not activated by the flap?
Memory protect switch would display that. We are talking about the high power interlock switch. It is possible one of the switches is pushed in better than the other.
LTG : )
Quoted from JBtheAVguy:Thankfully LTG doesn't think that way.
He's a good man. I think this was tongue cheek.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from 2manyhobbies:Is this still the correct coil or do the remakes take a different coil?
That coil will work IF you cut the diodes off.
LTG : )
Quoted from eroomnek:I know the new switch is working.
Is it staying closed with a ball on it ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Qui-Gon_Pinn:Can it be removed easily?
Yes. Unplug connectors in back box going up to it. On top four screws.
Quoted from Qui-Gon_Pinn:Does it impact game play in any way?
No.
LTG : )
Quoted from dtmail209:Maybe there is a setting to increase it?
In the CGC menu in the game. Page 1-15 in the manual.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Medic:I’m trying to tap into a 5v source to light up a mod. I already used the p87 for one mod and looking for another source. Does anyone know how I can test the plasma disk to see if it outputs 5v or any other 5v sources? Not sure the GI is 5v but it has 4rgb cables and don’t know if I can tap into that.
No idea.
What ever you are doing, please be careful. I'm tired of tickets on the help desk with people damaging their boards. CGC repairs them or new boards. Both of which costs money.
You might consider a separate power supply and plug it into the service outlet.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from JohnTTwo:I got a call the GI lights are off on my machine. What fuse should and I bring and anything else?
They part of all the lights. Fuses are on page 1-57 in the manual . F105 and F106 would be my guess. 20mm 3A slow blow or time delayed.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pinballers:please does anyone have any ideas
Adjustment A.1 28 minimum volume over ride. Change it.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from SiN13:I'm interested, I have a CE with the 13 and 7/8 inch display and the HD color upgrade. I'd like a little more info on this. What is the price and what is included? I'm assuming the 19 and 1/4 inch display and the frame to accommodate it. Does it included the SE/LE speakers with LED lighting?
I got this correction from Jim.
"CCR is only the large display.
These would be for MB, AFM and MM.
The speakers would be upgraded in this kit as well. New speakers in the speaker panel and a new 8 ohm center speaker too!"
Thank you,
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from macchiato:Thanks for any thoughts!
Try playing a game with coin door open and high power interlock switch pulled out.
If that doesn't do it. Turn the game off. Reseat cable between playfield board and board in the head. Be sure all the connectors to boards in the head are on tight.
LTG : )
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