After a weekend of play here’s a Honeymoon Report.
Prior to play:
- Pf and balls waxed.
- Static mylar in shooter lane until I get some real protection, thought previously would need in pops but mylar there already as well as drops and drac-track. Nice.
Minor issues corrected:
- GI clear cap fell off, ca’d back on.
- lock nut under red star post on frankie ramp fell off - all lock nuts in that assembly w the flasher were not tightened.
- Bride’s head kept sticking up - solenoid shaft was binding in body as well as at half-moon shaped bracket (if the shaft was twisted to either side a bit). Re-aligned and shimmed body, small amount of graphite at half moon bracket.
- Most important correction - could not level pf side-to-side properly at both bottom and top - obvious twist. Lock down assembly (which hangers rest on) was crooked. Easiest way to check this is to open coin door and feel alignment of assembly bottom in relation to coin door top. Mine was high left side 3/16”. Screws removed, bolts loosened, assembly realigned & everything tightened back up. Most people check side-to-side level at only one spot on pf. While shot aim and return trajectories is something a player can get used to between machines, some games need perfect level / no twisting - for FG / Shrek perfect level (and flipper alignment) is necessary so that the orbits can be hit by simply energizing flipper when ball is at rest against up-post and flipper. PL designed it that way.
- Lighting. After redoing my TronLE again to allow ramps not to be overpowered by LED’s I defitnitely notice variations and personally find LED’s usually too intense. MBRSE out of the box is way overpowering for me in areas - adjusted light levels down and went custom GI color to go a little more yellow - but Creeches LED’s were still overpowering (IMO because they are aimed right at u) so stuck some green bulb condoms on and got what I think is perfect balance there - going after Frankie drop bank next as I find these searing as well - will probably diffuse those on the light board w simply some semi opaque tape.
- Frankie spot realigned to my pref.
- Played w subwoof setting.
- @ end of weekend pf cleaned and waxed again, rubbers cleaned, factory balls were chopped pretty good by breaking in metal edges and such on pf and scoop and therefore dumped and replaced w silver jets - which will be monitored.
Final thoughts after the weekend:
- So so nice to have a NIB MBR, really, I would have been fine if they only released the CE but the SE’s GI color integration (along w speaker lights) is fantastic, the redraw on the dots incredible.
- cc on pf is amazing.
- Biggest concern is longevity of scoop protector. I believe the reports from expo were that they seemed to be weak and after only a weekend of play I would agree. Ours is noticeably dented right in middle at front and near back on side and is starting to deform. It looks like a combo mantis and cliffy fused together but I don’t know if it’s the right gauge of materials. Always used Cliffy’s w no problems. I thought cgc said they were correcting it after it was noticed and reported at expo...?
Overall minor “4:20” production issues - which are easily overlooked by a NIB experience of a classic updated w/ the SE’s revisions, will start research into the scoop protector and if there may be a revision.