The ball from the scoop is hitting the left sling and not the left flipper? Ideally it should hit the left flipper. Still, though, congrats as anything is better than SDTM.

Yeah I think the stripping I got is a little thicker than I should be using and I put it towards the very edge of the top right side. Maybe that's why , ill get a thinner set and see if that does anything. But you're right that's all I care about right now, no more SDTM garbage.

and Mmmmmmm screwball......

Anyone have a Brian Allen translite for their MBr they decided not to use And want to part with?

Havent touched my MB remake in months, decided to get to work to enjoy it more, maybe this will help someone:

1) Leveling- make sure game is leveled good, mine is set at 6.5, with maybe the front right leg just one or two turns higher. I think this has helped avoid drac feet things, bouncing off of him doesnt happen very often now.

2) Ramps - my right ramp works fine, and I can actually backhand sometimes. The left ramp would constantly go up, then come right back down, really annoying. I adjusted it by loosening the bolt all the way at the back where it touches the playfield, pushed it hard all the way towards the apron, and screwed it back real tight. Same with the second bolt holding it down. Then I put a thin coat of car wax on the ramp itself. Now its like super fast and hardly get any rejects, Im not even worried about it anymore

3) Scoop- for the STDM from the scoop, I put a washer under the front left screw, and set it to minimum strength eject. No more STDM

4) Wax - I found this really important. I used some car carnauba wax, man its super smooth and much more fast/enjoyable now

5) Launcher - sometimes my ball would ricochet off the path after being launched and not make it smoothly to the top, setting launch eject to minimum helped with that.

Great game finally with the adjustments above
Thanks for all the tips on this thread.

IMG_6375 (resized).jpg

Nevermind still get stdm
Guess I wil ltry that washer to make the coil move less

Putting a rubber ring at the end of the coil like everyone suggested fixed my scoop issues
Finally can enjoy the game ! Wish sterns Outlane adjustments were as easy as this design !

Nevermind after several games started going STDM again. Must be the thickness of the ring I used, I will try it a thicker one.]

EDIT: Thicker rubber o ring at the end of the coil helped, goes to left flipper everytime. Praying it continues to play great!

Hey, my Topper on my LE stopped working. What could be the culprit? What fuses are associated with topper? What board/connector should I reseat? Thanks.

Hey what stopped working ?

The lights ?

If so remove the front on the right speaker. Plug them back in. Try and get some slack on the wires so they stay plugged in.

LTG : )

Ok, not the plugs into the topper interface board. White flashers are still working, but leds are not. Removed and reseated all connectors on topper interface board in right speaker facade panel, and all connectors that the topper pigtail connects to indirectly and directly after the pigtail connector once inside the backbox. Still no blinky blinky of the LEDs. Does the topper interface board have an LED driver transistor that may have gone tits up?

Yeah the weather stripping I put in the scoop only lasted about a day. Now about every 4th scoop shot goes STDM. What a shame.

i tryed the washer,the rubber etc... nothing helped really,a friend bought me the stainless steel scoop,now its much better.not perfect.

in the end i have the feeling the plunge is not consistent,thats cause the problem,whe i look the old scoop,the marks of the ball,is not always in the middle.

Yes, that's the problem I have. The kickout is not consistent, so no matter how I try to adjust it, it still goes SDTM about 10% of the time. All the tricks with washers, foam, rings, etc., just change which 10% goes bad.

I wonder why that is. I don't think mine has ever went SDTM and I've never done anything with it. My only issue is the dracula feet thing.

I wonder if it is more related to angle and level.

Did you adjust the scoop in the settings menu to allow the ball more time to settle before ejecting?

the dracula feet problem,i get rid of it with leveling.0.1 degrees makes a difference

That setting you are talking about is not for giving the ball time to settle, it's for how long the solenoid is engaged when it does fire (the ball has losts of time to settle while it is displaying the random award or starting a mode).

The other setting is for the strength of the kick, and yes, I have tried adjusting both those settings, but have not found a worthwhile combination. Like I said, it just seems to alter WHICH 10% goes bad.

I tried looking for that setting last night with no luck. Can you please help me with this. ( strength setting ).

You need to go into the "special" CGC menu, not the normal Williams menus. If you look in the manual, it is described there. I'm at work at the moment so I can't give you more detail right now.

You have to hold down the button that gives you credits for like 5 seconds then you can acccess CGC menu

Thanks!

Which one is the scoop setting? I’m terrible

A88FEDAF-F4FF-4798-BFAC-897296F6ABD6 (resized).jpeg

None of those.

LTG : )

Can you please enlighten me where I can find the setting ? I’m lost. I’d appreciate it

Go one more screen. Left Popper ( by creature ) Right Popper and Right Popper Timing.

Every time you push the left button you advance one screen.

LTG : )

LTG ,

I tried messing with plugs and wires to topper, no help, topper RGB still dead. White flashers still, and have always worked, just RGB went out. Looked for a fuse but didn’t see one. Not sure if there is a setting to turn RGB on topper off, if so, nothing has happened to cause any changes in settings. No re-flash, or factory resets, or software updates, I just turned it on and no worky topper RGB. Is there a LED driver or drivers that need replaced? Should a topper board replacement shotgun fix it, or is there a main board driver or communications line driver on the main board that also could cause an issue? Let me know, I may open a ticket even though I am way out of warranty.

BH

Please open one anyway. See if the engineer has any ideas.

LTG : )

My left Bride ramp has the common ball hang up issue where a weak shot will roll back down and stop on the habitrail. I’ve read all the posts in this thread about possible fixes. The outer rail looks noticeably lower than the inside rail in this part of the habitrail. Is this where I need to bend the outer rail up a bit?

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I threw in the towel and stopped fighting the erratic scoop. Ordered a Mantis Scoop because neither CGC nor PPS could offer to buy a CGC part.

Check out how much the scoop is worn.. and unless I'm mistaken, that groove and bump are from the ball. It's worn so smooth. Scoop isn't square anymore and the back curve is very out of shape.
IMG_2992 copy (resized).jpg

IMG_2994 copy (resized).jpg

IMG_2992 copy (resized).jpg

How many plays is that? Looks worn! Do you have the mantis yet?

Wow! That's a lot of bashing. Any idea on how many plays it took to get to that state? Are we talking >10,000?

The Mantis replacement is great; super reinforced and mine in my original MB has no noticeable wear, and zero damage in 5 years or so. However it is VERY unforgiving as far as sinking the ball; take your time adjusting it

I don't have the play count handy... but probably more than a few thousand.

Mantis was ordered Monday and I had it in hand by Wednesday. Kerry rocks.

Mantis as usual is beefed up vs the original WMS designs - but for CGC they added a LED board to the scoop that isn't on the WMS design, so also not on the Mantis design. I just hung the LED board with a ziptie to a nearby loom to aim it at the opening at the top of the scoop and it shined through fine.

Has anyone replaced/upgraded the speakers in the Special Edition? If so, worth the effort? Any suggested speakers?

Sorry if I'm wrong here but just browsing around but I was looking to order the color upgrade for my CE. And found something for MM that upgrades not only to color but has the expanded display also. Was that ever an option for us who own the MB CE remake?

Yes, that XL display can be used on MBr. But the color chip ($400) also has to be installed.

Thanks, looks like i missed the boat on those, nobody seems to carry them anymore. Ah well.

cgc is supposed to make more of the mod kits. but it may be when mmr ships again.. have to just keep an eye out. if you do not have the $400 color rom upgrade, you'll need that anyway, get that in the meantime.

Ok cool. I’ll definitely keep an eye out.

This is by design, a weak shot shouldn't make it.
EDIT
I failed at reading where you say it gets stuck that shouldn't happen obviously. Yes you will need to adjust and tweak it until it comes back out/down. Also make sure your game is level and at least 6.5 pitch or higher.

Can someone could share a picture of the back of the lcd wide backcreen please (speaker visible) ? Tks !

On the xl screen? I can when i get back in

Yes ! Thanks

Big thanks !

Question about mrs_mezelmods "Frank's Table":

I ordered this thing the other day and tried installing it in my original MB on the original unmodified table. However, it doesn't fit. There is a pivot point, when placing it on the table assembly and the images show why. The mod does not account for the lower welded part on the metal assembly and therefore will not sit flush.

The green circle shows the grove accounting for the top weld. The red circles show the missing groves for the lower weld.

PXL_20220909_172156198 (resized).jpgPXL_20220909_172202714 (resized).jpg

Has anyone installed this mod and encountered the same thing? Do I have a fraudulent part? OR did nobody except for me actually notice this and everyone just brute force stuck it down regardless?

This video by another owner clearly shows that his mod is sitting flush:

Huh. It fit on my remake. I would ask in the original Mb thread, you can’t be the only one with those tabs still there. Have you contacted mezel mods? I’d think they’d want to adjust for an original one that may fit a sub set of original games

I installed it on my original MB. It was a couple years ago but I recall I had to shave it down a bit using a dremel. I’ll check this morning and take a photo or two.

Consensus about the shaker motor on the MB? I searched and saw just a few posts about it. The Flyland alternate translite is also on the list. Had people over on Saturday and everyone gravitated towards MB over everything else.

I put shakers in everything, because, but MB doesn't use it "often" at least to me not often enough. Mostly during Frank multiball. Still fun to have it.

I have the Brian A. translight and had to manually cut it to fit the game. I like the art, I think it looks great, but the cab/pf art doesn't match so if you like it, go for it! And if you really like it grab the art blades?

Yeah figured id go all out and get everything I can, patiently waiting for an XL screen run again when MM comes back out. And maybe some lights for the speakers. I got my CE with the limited edition molding already on it, not sure where the guy who gave me the machine got that but whatever! The side blades are insane and I put them in as soon as the game was in the house.

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Has anyone seen any speaker panel artwork being offered? Always wondered why this panel was just left black.