83 3/4" with nuts off on rear and leg levelers adjusted all the way down or 84" to be safe which allows a 1/4" side to side adjustment for leveling if needed. The brides head is the tallest point of the topper.

Nice Job.

I asked in the mmr thread but haven’t heard, can the old Williams mirror blades fit the remakes? Or is it recommended to just wait for cgc to make more mirror blades? Need them for my mmr and mbr, but I have a pair of old Williams mirror blades sitting around

I think they do fit, but I could be wrong. I know the sets that I got for my AFMr and MBr said they fit both the CGC remakes and the old Williams games.

Yes.

LTG : )

Merry Christmas

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Haha, that’s great!

Happening here as well!

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Hello All, Having a slight issue with the Mummy casket not opening all the time. Fails one out of five-ish. When it doesn't open there is an audible hum. Tested Solenoid and it flips slightly open but doesn't seem to be an issue. I did notice the plastic cover over the ball rails for Bride that runs directly beneath the casket is touching the bottom of the casket.

Anyone else seeing this issue?

Thanks
Matthew

I'd deal with that first.

LTG : )

Yep, Strange, is that piece of plastic above the ball rail has one hole drilled so it would be adjustable left or right, but the other hole is not, it's cut to fit the post exactly round. So you can't really adjust it. I might just elongate that round hole so I can adjust it just a bit.

Thanks LTG...
Matthew

Yeah used cointaker William mirrors. Says remake too.

I haven't heard back from the BA thread. I recieved the brian allen MB translite. Put it in and when I install 2-3 of the plastic guides the translite starts to pull off the glass. How are people installing translites and keeping them flat against the glass? I see 2 of my plastic guides are already splitting.

thank you! I'll have to test fit the ones I have on hand.

Having a new issue where whenever the ball gets stopped for Frank Multiball, it gets stuck in the spot after the stopper goes down. It looks like the pin may be blocking the ball. Anyone else have this problem and know how to fix?

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The arm of the switch needs to be adjusted so it doesn't trap the ball and still works.

You might be able to loosen the two screws a little holding the switch down and turn the body of the switch a tiny bit clockwise and then retighten the screws, not too tight.

If it doesn't move, then you need to gently bend the arm of the switch a little. So it lets the ball roll by but still triggers the switch.

LTG : )

Yep, exactly this. My OG MB had the same issue. The switch arm is so long it does not need to move much to trigger

The Pingraffix blades fit both original and remake.

I'm hoping that somebody can offer a little helpful advice.

I'm installing some Pin Stadium Neo's to my MBr CE and I'm a bit stumped. My other pins are all Sterns (all but one have Pin Stadiums). This is my first CGC machine and it is noticeably different under the play field, from the Sterns.

I attached a photo of the connectors that Scott included with the Pin Stadium Neo's. It surprises me that the Pin Stadiums that I have purchased have not come with any kind of printed instructions.

If someone out there owns a MBr CE and can let me know where you connected your GI and flashers, I would really appreciate it. For the record, on my Stern's, I used the red and green wire (they would be the ones with the Alligator clips, in the photo) for my flashers. I'm not even sure where to connect the other other connectors (the splitter attached to the blue and white wires) on my MBr.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Dave

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MRr 01 (resized).JPG

Recently installed on my MBr as well. Scott pointed me to a few posts and sent me PDF's as well. Check out the following:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/85#post-4952945

Posts 4209 and 4210 (if I recall correctly).

Hope this helps.

Thank you, I did reach out to Scott and am hoping to hear back by early next week (given the holidays).

Thank you, very much. This was actually very helpful and much appreciated. It gave me the location to attach my GI adaptor. I sent an email to Scott to inquire about a good location for the flashers. Those attach via alligator clips, though I do not see any metal posts to attach to (all the lights look like they use plastic clips).

Actually got the 666 "Monster Bonus" today for the first time. I wasn't even trying (as I usually try to concentrate on one monster at a time), but I suddenly had 5 all going and I was just able to start Frank before the Bride timed out.

I still need to get to Lyman's Revenge (closest I've gotten is like 36 of the 44 needed).

Can mbr still be found new at any distros or is that long gone? I know I probably sound real out of touch and yes I am. I haven’t bought a machine in many years so not familiar with the market cycles etc. thx

As far as I know there are none available at MSRP
This dealer has a classic edition for $11,000 if you are willing to pay that.
http://pinballs.com/

Pinballs is automated….he seems to keep finding games from the back of his warehouse, call and see if he’ll work a deal on pricing

Thanks for the lead guys!

Just want to give a 'shout out' to Scott, from Pin Stadium. He communicated with me, over the Christmas Holiday, to troubleshoot my Pinstadiums. Others, above, were also very helpful. My MBr CE looks sooooooooo much better with the Pin Stadiums working.

My appreciation to all who offered great advice and Scott should get some kind of award for truly AMAZING customer service!

No picture. Loosen the screws holding the assembly to the playfield. Push the washer in the left side between the bracket and the playfield.

When the playfield is down, looking at the scoop it should now lean to the left a little.

LTG : )

I did have a picture.

LTG : )

pitfix (resized).jpg

Power for coils is in the cgc menu iirc, open the coin door and hold the right most button and it should bring you to the cgc menu.

So how did they attach?

Page 1-10 in the manual.

Game turned on. Hold the escape button for five seconds or so. This brings up the CGC menu. Every time you push the escape button you advance one screen. Use the "-" or "+" to go up and down the screen. Hit the enter button to change one.

Keep hitting the escape button to get back to the attract mode.

LTG : )

bump

I had a similar problem. Brian’s version is bigger than the original. I had to carefully and slightly trim Brian’s to make it work. It doesn’t look like should be a problem but for whatever reason it is. Lay the new over the original and I think you’ll see the small size differential I’m talking about.

Ahhh, interesting. I’ll do that and see what the difference is. Yeah kind of annoying….

Thanks!

Thanks so much for posting this LTG! I was having the SDTM problem from the scoop and this fixed it. Bracket was a bit stiff to come off the bottom of the playfield even with the screws loosened, but eventually pried it off a bit and got the washer in between.

Played a few games and I’m still getting the SDTM issue maybe one out of 4 times, maybe I need a thicker washer. I have seen someone post about using a spring washer. Would this perhaps provide a better result?

If your coil is loose a spring washer will help tighten it up and help prevent balls going straight down the middle. I believe I put mine next to the coil stop to tighten everything up. This solved the problem for me. Also make sure you squeeze everything together when tightening the coil stop to further reduce movement in the coil.

LTG's washer fix helps direct the ball more towards the left flipper I believe, but that may not be your issue.

I know this might be a bit much to ask, but you think you could take a picture of the spring washer you put next to the coil stop on your machine? I’m not quite sure what to do and a pic might help.

Here is a picture. I actually have it on the opposite end of the coil stop, between the coil bracket and the coil. You can just see a piece of the spring washer sticking out at the top. I hope this helps.

MB Spring Washer (resized).jpg

If that doesn’t fix the problem, push the plunger on the coil manually a few times. If you feel some resistance replace coil sleeve. I had the SDTM issue however mine just limped out of the scoop down the middle once in a while. I was under the hood and just checked the coil and I found it had some resistance like almost like a bit of sand was in there. Replaced coil sleeve and never had an issue since.

Thanks very much for the tips and the pictures! I’ll give it a shot.

Whoaaaa that is different. Hmmm gonna trim , just need to decide if it’s all four sides or two
It is 3/8" too large on 2 sides. The "genuine" sticker is blocking a lot from cutting the bottom. I'm going to split the cuts on all 4, but the bottom will be like a 1/16"

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EDIT:
I cut 3/16" off each side and 1/4" off the top. the trans fits MUCH better but still is not stuck to the glass. However you can't see any lift/creases so it is good to go!

Glad it worked out for you. Once I figured that out, I’ve never looked back. Love the look of his alternate translites.

I fixed the SDTM issue from the scoop. I just had to tighten us the 2 nuts on the coil bracket. Don’t know why I didn’t think of this earlier!