Quoted from gigo:If reset it needs to get trained again a few games until it comes active again and light up.
yep, that was the issue..
Quoted from gigo:If reset it needs to get trained again a few games until it comes active again and light up.
yep, that was the issue..
Quick question. So original Williams Monster Bash had an issue with dracs feet causing SDTM. Williams offered a drag cut feet as a solution. So did CGC use original drac figure because I have a CGC and still hitting dracs feet ever so slightly sending it SDTM. Thinking of ordering pre-cut dracs feet and hope this solves it but wondering if CGC already addressed this and buying pre cut feet won’t help me.
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:Quick question. So original Williams Monster Bash had an issue with dracs feet causing SDTM.
Yes.
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:So did CGC use original drac figure
Made to Williams specs, yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:Quick question. So original Williams Monster Bash had an issue with dracs feet causing SDTM. Williams offered a drag cut feet as a solution. So did CGC use original drac figure because I have a CGC and still hitting dracs feet ever so slightly sending it SDTM. Thinking of ordering pre-cut dracs feet and hope this solves it but wondering if CGC already addressed this and buying pre cut feet won’t help me.
The Drac on MBr is NOT the one with the cut feet. I bought the "cut foot" version of drac to put in my MBr because I thought I was having that problem as well. Unfortunately, the "cut foot" version is much less detailed a figure than the MBr ones (at least on my MBr-SE).
And it turns out that the problem was not being caused by drac's feet anyway. It was really just coming down the side lane without hitting his feet. What I then did was put a piece of mylar along the metal side rail just above drac. That has improved things quite a bit and you can't tell the difference otherwise. YMMV.
Not sure why CGC didn't use the "improved" version of drac though.
Hi guys I have a question, I’m trying to figure out how to take the coil sleeve out of my plunger coil. Started to look at the manual and see two things. One it looks like my coil is install backwards according to the diagram and the other is my coil part number is different than the manual part number. Is this an issue? Plunger works fine. Also what’s the best way to remove the sleeve? I’m getting black dust in the shooter lane after ever 10-15 plunges and I think it’s a dirty sleeve.
AF4F5823-BCA7-4A12-BBA6-33A06C91054A (resized).jpegC791ADB0-C56D-41E6-AB23-29B6FE399D91 (resized).jpegTake out the coil stop (#4 in diagram) by unloosening those two locknuts. The coil and plunger should be able to be removed after that, then the sleeve pulls free from the coil. But how many plays does this have on it? I have never seen a sleeve produce that much black dust except after A LOT of play.
Quoted from Bublehead:Take out the coil stop (#4 in diagram) by unloosening those two locknuts. The coil and plunger should be able to be removed after that, then the sleeve pulls free from the coil. But how many plays does this have on it? I have never seen a sleeve produce that much black dust except after A LOT of play.
According to the seller 400 games, but who knows.
Does anyone know if the coil is installed backwards? According to the diagram from Chicago gaming the two wires part is facing the front of the machine and on mine they are facing the back of the machine, and does it matter the part numbers don’t match?
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:does it matter
No. Fires the same facing either way. Lugs away from the lockdown bar receiver is a good idea.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:does it matter the part numbers don’t match?
No. Coil used is a bit stronger.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flipper_Ripper:According to the seller 400 games, but who knows.
I got 1500+ games on MBrLE... no black dust in shooterlane.
Can anyone tell me what would cause one flipper to travel slightly further than the other. The left one goes about 1/8" further than the left. If I manually move it I can feel pressure(stop) at the same point as the other flipper, but then it goes a bit further after that.
Quoted from Zablon:Can anyone tell me what would cause one flipper to travel slightly further than the other. The left one goes about 1/8" further than the left. If I manually move it I can feel pressure(stop) at the same point as the other flipper, but then it goes a bit further after that.
I have seen that much difference due to give between the crank and shaft caused by flipper being physically blocked at end of stroke and the overdriving of the crank wears a spot on the shaft. This feels like that when it happens. The deformed shaft will eventually wear until the crank physically can not be tightened down further because the two sides to the crank have met and there is no longer a gap between them (OD of shaft goes undersize due to wear). This can happen rapidly if there is a mechanical blockage of the flipper. I don’t think this is your problem, however, it could be. I rebuilt a flipper in my BOP way back when and it had a inlane guide installed wrong and it was doing this to the flipper.
Quoted from Zablon:Can anyone tell me what would cause one flipper to travel slightly further than the other. The left one goes about 1/8" further than the left. If I manually move it I can feel pressure(stop) at the same point as the other flipper, but then it goes a bit further after that.
I notice a lot of games do this. I’ve measured, rebuilt, tried to compensate... finally I just kinda decided it was one of those things.
My baseless theory was it was the uneven alignment of the flipper plates.
I joined a couple of weeks ago. I picked up a very low use classic from a friend's bar. I am rather shocked by the amount of dimpling with under 1500 plays, aside from that no complaints. I still prefer the WPC, but for the price you can beat these.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I joined a couple of weeks ago. I picked up a very low use classic from a friend's bar. I am rather shocked by the amount of dimpling with under 1500 plays, aside from that no complaints. I still prefer the WPC, but for the price you can beat these.
For the price a classic is great, but honestly the LE (and to a lesser degree the SE) are where this version shines.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I joined a couple of weeks ago. I picked up a very low use classic from a friend's bar. I am rather shocked by the amount of dimpling with under 1500 plays, aside from that no complaints. I still prefer the WPC, but for the price you can beat these.
Yah I just picked up an SE and also surprised by how many dimples, especially when everyone here raves about CGC playfields. Maybe they made a bad batch? I’m still having fun playing it, but boy oh boy is it ever dimpled and it only has 500ish plays
hey, just tested my frank targets. both work fine in test. during gameplay, with ball in hand, first five hits registered perfect for the body parts, then nothing scores after that. i tried them like ten times; both targets.
the next hit should lower them, right? is there a bug in my version of the code? looks like it's 1.0.3; june 5 2019. i think that's the newest. it also says the firmware is 2.0 le. i have a premium though.
actually, watching a video, it looks like when you get the fifth body part (the head) the targets go down. maybe that's my problem; the drop target mech. i was thinking it took six hits.
update: i cycled the mech in test and it worked fine. tested gameplay: works now. i guess i just needed to cycle it, like a reset or something.
I saw that someone had bought the LE Armor from planetary pinball does anyone know if this is still possible?
Also there was an LE topper for sale but it seems to have disappeared don't even see it as archived.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I joined a couple of weeks ago. I picked up a very low use classic from a friend's bar. I am rather shocked by the amount of dimpling with under 1500 plays,
I had the same problem until I turned the flipper strength down. Out of the box when the ball hits Frank's feet the ball flies everywhere. I had more dimpling in those first 100 games than the post-adjustment following 500 games.
Quoted from arcyallen:I had the same problem until I turned the flipper strength down. Out of the box when the ball hits Frank's feet the ball flies everywhere. I had more dimpling in those first 100 games than the post-adjustment following 500 games.
Interesting. How did you do that?
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Interesting. How did you do that?
Go into the CGC settings area. See manual
Quoted from LTG:Page 1-10 in the manual or :
LTG : )
Thanks, I don't have the manual (bought the game used) and when I looked on IMDB the original MB
manual was listed.
The manual can be found here : https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf
Quoted from arcyallen:I had the same problem until I turned the flipper strength down. Out of the box when the ball hits Frank's feet the ball flies everywhere. I had more dimpling in those first 100 games than the post-adjustment following 500 games.
what did you turn them down to? What was the original factory default setting? thx
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I don't have the manual
Quoted from mbeardsley:The manual can be found here : https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf
mbeardsley posted the link. ( thank you )
All the remake manuals can be downloaded from chicago-gaming.com
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:The manual can be found here : https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MB_Manual_Rev_1.pdf
Thanks. It's so rare for me to have a machine so new, that I instantly default to the pinball database.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Thanks. It's so rare for me to have a machine so new, that I instantly default to the pinball database.
At least you went looking. Too many don't try.
LTG : )
So are there any more Monster Bash SEs being sold new anywhere, or are they all gone? I mean for sensible prices, not these bat shit insane ones.
Quoted from Doctor6:So are there any more Monster Bash SEs being sold new anywhere, or are they all gone? I mean for sensible prices, not these bat shit insane ones.
I know there are a few SE's left NIB, but the distributors I talked to are asking higher than retail pricing which is bull shit. I bought one of the last CE in the country a few weeks ago.
Quoted from Doctor6:So are there any more Monster Bash SEs being sold new anywhere, or are they all gone? I mean for sensible prices, not these bat shit insane ones.
check cointaker
Quoted from Mando:What is considered a fair price on this?
Whatever price you are willing to pay!
I have been looking into getting a MBr SE for about 4 months ($7299 at the time) but didn't pull the trigger because wanted to get more play time on one just to be sure ok. Fast forward to a week ago and got out and played one on location, great game, plenty to shoot for....., ok this will fit in my lineup. So the search began and found that most distributors were sold out, the ones that had some in stock the price had gone up significantly! I was like what is going on here is this price gouging or what. After about 5 days searching, calling, emailing, finally found one NIB for a price I could live with. If you are diligent should be able to find one, they are still out there just comes down to what you are willing to pay.
Quoted from BangbackBetty:Whatever price you are willing to pay!
I have been looking into getting a MBr SE for about 4 months ($7299 at the time) but didn't pull the trigger because wanted to get more play time on one just to be sure ok. Fast forward to a week ago and got out and played one on location, great game, plenty to shoot for....., ok this will fit in my lineup. So the search began and found that most distributors were sold out, the ones that had some in stock the price had gone up significantly! I was like what is going on here is this price gouging or what. After about 5 days searching, calling, emailing, finally found one NIB for a price I could live with. If you are diligent should be able to find one, they are still out there just comes down to what you are willing to pay.
Yes, the price gouging by some distributors is BS. I ended up getting a CE for $6k shipped. Great bang for buck and we have been playing it non-stop.
Quoted from BangbackBetty:Whatever price you are willing to pay!
I have been looking into getting a MBr SE for about 4 months ($7299 at the time) but didn't pull the trigger because wanted to get more play time on one just to be sure ok. Fast forward to a week ago and got out and played one on location, great game, plenty to shoot for....., ok this will fit in my lineup. So the search began and found that most distributors were sold out, the ones that had some in stock the price had gone up significantly! I was like what is going on here is this price gouging or what. After about 5 days searching, calling, emailing, finally found one NIB for a price I could live with. If you are diligent should be able to find one, they are still out there just comes down to what you are willing to pay.
Then let me clarify. I'm looking for a retailer that may still sell it for suggested retail and not gouging the hell out of me.
Quoted from Doctor6:Then let me clarify. I'm looking for a retailer that may still sell it for suggested retail and not gouging the hell out of me.
OUT THE GOUGERS!!!
Quoted from Doctor6:Then let me clarify. I'm looking for a retailer that may still sell it for suggested retail and not gouging the hell out of me.
I had one ass hat quote me a higher price than what was on his website for a CE.
New issue with my Monster Bash SE:
Drac stays in his coffin when you first get Drac Attack and start the clip. He does come out eventually but seems to be moving less than normal. I also noticed the ball will stay in the scoop when Drac Attack mode is active for abnormally long times (not always) before finally shooting out.
Any ideas?
Quoted from weaverj:has anything changed; mods?
Only thing I have done is add the shaker from the LE (and invisiglass).
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