It's dialed in! Thanks LTG

or just loosen the nuts connecting the plastic. The original game was fairly loose in this part

Anyone want to buy a Monster Bash topper? I sold my LE and bought a modded SE which included this topper. I have limited "main lineup" space when toppers are in play. Just got Dialed In with a topper and have a Black Knight Rage with topper coming this week.

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I was exploring our new CE tonight. It looks like they use the same GI harness on all models even though the CE doesn't have RGB Leds in it. Am I correct in assuming these are white only and not RGB but presenting only white color? I find the white lights next to the shooter lane to be a little bright to the eyes. Before I realized how the light sockets were wired, I was going to try some frosted 44s there to dial it down a touch. Are there any other frost white or maybe blue Leds available with this socket fitment? You could certainly mod it by using a 4 pin male to male connector and wiring it to a traditional socket and put different Leds in it. I haven't metered it to see if they are 5v or 12v. The other option would be adding a smoked or colored plexi to sit right on top of that long thin plastic.

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Thanks for the sanity check. Game likes things loose is right! But it's playing rad.

Messaged you

I've just finished reading the first 57 pages of this thread. I hope you all got your machines

Brand new, never used, Frankenstein table mod for sale. $40 shipped (save $8 on shipping versus buying it online).

https://mezelmods.com/products/monster-bash-pinball-franks-table

This is an incredibly cool mod. somebody get it quick!!

And I did...

Yup, sold!

Anyone else having their plastic rubbing on the heads of the post screws and getting scratched? I'll probably put some washers in to create a gap. Seems like a poor design, having the plastic resting on top of a screw head.

IMG_20201121_134244920.jpg

I thought the OG MB used round head screws here? It still rubbed a spot but it was just a small double line and not very noticeable. On the other hand, I bought my MBrLE to keep till I die, so I couldn't care less about tiny scratches. Now the massively dimpled playfield makes me worry a bit... have to say I'm a tad disappointed with the dimples.

Side note, the dimples are all wood related, that is its not dents in clear, these are dents due to substrate compression- i.e. there are no dimples over inserts- the areas around the inserts looks like 100 monkeys with tiny ballpeen hammers have done a Russian sabre dance all around them but the reflection off the clear top coat is smooth as glass on top of the inserts. So wood compression is the culprit...

use clear plastic protectors

i lasered some for me

Yes, and in the exact same spot as shown in the pic. I have not noticed this happening elsewhere, though.

Quick question (not looking to bitch, just curious).

Do the MBr playfields easily dimple? I bought a NIB MBrLE a few weeks ago and it has significantly more dimpling than my MMrRE. I only have about 200 plays on the MB and over 1,000 on the MM.

Yes

Funny email exchange with my local glass company:

Me: "Do you guys have available anything like this specifically for pinball machines? I'd like prices for normal and anti-reflective glass.
https://cointaker.com/products/hd-anti-reflection-pinball-glass
Thanks
Ron"
---------------------
Glass Co: "Hey Ron. We have a Non-Glare glass which works against reflections and only partial UV blockage, but it is not the conservation grade UV protection you may be looking for. This glass is just under a 1/16” thick and goes for $7.95 plus tax per square foot. A standard, 1/16” clear float glass goes for $3.75 plus tax per square foot."
---------------------
Me: "Something is horribly, comically wrong here. I'm pretty sure that glass isn't 1/16" thick. Picking up and handling a sheet 1/16" think that is 21" x 43" seems impossible without breaking. I'm pretty sure it's not "specifically for pinball machines". And I'm also pretty sure that whatever glass you're suggesting would burst into a million eye destroying pieces when a pinball hits it at speed during a game and I'm staring directly at it.
Perhaps we can try this again? I don't mean to sound snarky. I just know this is way, way off.
Thanks
Ron"

I think I'll wait for the next post-Covid show and pick up a sheet or two then

Yes. Personally from what I see and own almost every pin out there has dimples some more then others. Frank’s feet make the ball bounce up and Dracula also but not as much. There is a place around the corner from me that has 32 pins, range from old to new, and I have looked at all of them and see dimples but again just depends on what you have that will bounce around causing this. When you compare that to Medieval Madness which is mainly ramp shots and about the only bash toy is when the trolls pop up then you can see a big difference. Frank is always in the way causing mayhem , trolls only every once in awhile.

Too funny! That's about 3X too thin, for sure. I am interested in hearing what your glass company says in reply. Could be a heck of a lot cheaper going through a local glass company instead.

Their second reply did not instill me with confidence, talking about "safety glass like a car". So I'll take a different route.

Can someone tell me how to turn off topper lights in LE? I like my pinball room to be dark and the topper is a little too much. I held down settings button and went to the options where it says “topper speaker brightness: OFF” but the lights are still coming on. TIA

Did you try page 1-13 in the manual - Upper Strip ?

LTG : )

I would love to know if you ever figured out the answer. I just bought my machine 5 days ago and am wondering the same. I'm having two issues with my machine.

1) The center popup seems to fire the ball strait down the center drain 9 out of 10 times.
2) Frankie faceplants. He doesn't seem to stay hooked in and falls forward face planting after a Frankie multiball.

Are you having either of these issues?

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1) Make sure your game is level checking left to right on the playfield.

2) can you take glass off and take pic of were Frankenstein is supposed to go onto with the glass off?

It came with 1.0.2 and I updated to 1.0.3 (it was my first time updating any code). It was a piece of cake, I just followed the instructions of the CGC website. I don't have the Frank faceplant issue, but I did have the SDTM from the scoop. I did the foam fix and 99/100 now go perfectly to the left flipper. Mostly eliminating the SDTM makes the game 1000% better.

Just picked up a MBr SE, having issues with Franks head hitting the glass and not resetting after multiball. Anyone ever run into this, I'm guessing it's something easy as he shouldn't be close to hitting the glass. Moves down fine, the hits register, then he goes to move back to horizontal. He seems to dip forward and then get lifted up, which is causing him to hit the glass. Any help would be great.

See the tab circled in red. Yours is likely on the wrong side of the opening. The tab prevents him from falling all the way forward.

LTG : )

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Solved my own question, looks like the screws that hold franks body to his arms have stopped holding. Looks like the plastic worn down and gave away. That was making him slide and hit the glass on the way up.

I truly appreciate your assistance. This is the first Pinball Machine that I've owned and I'm very excited about it.

The back of the Frankenstein monster has this tab that goes into a notch. It seems that the notch SHOULD be longer to keep the tab in it's proper place. I read another thread that advocated bending it a bit with needle nose pliers to get it to stay in place. I did so and then Played it about 4 times and it seems to have done the trick. I'll include photos below.

I double checked and the Pitch seems to be right on. Additionally the playing field is level. See the pictures. If there is anything you can suggest to get the popup to stop sending the ball strait down the middle drain I'd be appreciative.

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Can you tell me more about this "foam fix" for the SDTM issue? Do you have a link to share?

Good pic in post below.

Is the MBr Speaker panel for sale asa spare part somewhere? I'd like to add it into my reguar MB with larger Pin2DMD panels. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

guys, need some help. i spent most of the day putting rubbers on. i'm totally exhausted, btw. wanted to confirm i put this section back together correctly. here's what i got currently from top to bottom:

hex nut
metal washer
plastic with those two clear posts
ramp
plastic spacer/washer
big hex spacer
metal washer
playfield

whenever you have a minute; no emergency. ty.

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i also wanted to show some scratching i inadvertently did while working on my pin. the right ramp cover was definitely from the mummy assembly i had loose sitting on it. i should have disconnected that or had a rag underneath it. damage to the plastic piece over the pop could been prevented by unmounting the bottom piece from the pop cap and body. hopefully you guys can learn from my mistakes. cheers.

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ahhman...

Hey Metal Mods, can you tell me where I need to add the spring washer on the solenoid to fix the SDTM from scoop problem? I'm a newbie and would be so grateful for a little help with this.

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Frankenstein Face Plant

20-25% of the time after the Frankenstein Multiball Frankie FACE PLANTS.

I've tried bending the tab as suggested in other posts but can't seem to get this sorted. The thing just does not stay in it's slot. (see picture)

Any help with this frustrating issue would be appreciated. Here is a 6 second video of what happens.

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Look at my picture in post #7578 and note the black metal part is bent so it's in the center of the leg. Yours needs to go over more. Not just the tab, but the whole metal blade the tab is on.

Check out the yellow arrows I put on your picture.

LTG : )

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Turns out I gave somebody else the same advice earlier today:

The arrow is pointing to where the spring washer is, between the coil stop and coil lugs. Be sure to push that coil stop back on real tight so that the neck of the coil sleeve is protruding into the coil stop.

Another problem is how the plunger is hitting the ball. I posted a small tutorial on how to fix that as well. See posts 7454 and 7455 in the thread.

Also, a piece of adhesive foam has been said to work for some people, see post 4890. I personally didn't want to do the foam piece, as I don't want a bunch of micro-debris getting everywhere over time. As a last resort I would add that if everything else fails you. Or maybe it's a perfect first resort if you're not mechanically inclined.

For everyone else reading this (LTG?) the true key to fixing this problem is figuring out when exactly that plunger is getting robbed of power-
it seems to be getting pulled down by a series of flasher events. If that sequence could be figured out, maybe the code could be altered slightly...?
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don't worry; ordering replacements .

damn. anyone know a part number for the right ramp topper plastic? having a hard time finding one. i really don't wanna buy an entire set...

nobody wants to check that post for me? come on .

Here you go brother. Hopefully these will help tried to get the same angle as your pic.

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HUGE APPRECIATION for Metal-Mods and JTG for their help.

I bent the back of Frankie's blade thing more and it seems to be fixed. WoooHoo!

To Resolve the Scoop shooting the ball strait down the drain, I maxed the power which reduced the problem to 1 out of 4. Added a spring washer which did not help, then added a "magic slider" (pictured below) inside the scoop which reduced the Straight down the drain to 1 in 10 or less. We can live with that.

I added a "magic slider" to Drac's foot which fixed the problem with him sending strait down the drain.

I turn the auto save on to 2 seconds

Our game is soooo much more fun now. THANK YOU!!!!

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tyvm. looks like i got it right. i think i bent the top side of the ramp a bit getting to the rubbers underneath it. that created some uncertainty when putting that clear plastic back on, since the fitment was so snug. i also added a washer, which is no big deal. i always do that when working on games. better than having pieces left over .

The placement on drac seems odd. Isn't the issue the ball hitting the tips of the toes, not the back of the feet?

My center spinner has been intermittent. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I've discovered that when it IS working, I get an error message when I open the door:

Check switch F7 center spinner

I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for. Everything looks correct.

When the spinner isn't working, I do not get any error.

Any ideas?

Is the switch and bracket on tight ?

Tests - Switch Edge - raoll a ball though the spinner - does it register on the screen ? If not adjust accordingly. More sensitive if need be, less if it's stuck closed.

LTG : )

Ok I went into the test menu... it does not trigger when I roll a ball through... or even if i manually spin it really fast. It will trigger if I manually push up the bar. I'm not sure how to make it more sensitive. Everything seems to be in there nice and stable.