you can try this one, looks fine on mine: https://www.dropbox.com/s/g8gkx7y2s712h9i/userlogo.bmp?dl=0
it's already in the correct size, looks blurry when zoomed in, but works well on the game itself.

the spotlight is switched on only if Frank's table is up, spotting to standing Frank - also during lamp tests, the table needs to be up.

yep, its looking like a bulb with mine. was working with Chicago's support simultaneously to this, testing continuity etc, and learned from them that that light doesnt actually flash during any of the lamp/flasher tests, it only comes on during the frank table test. well i mean, mine doesnt, but yknow lol

also if anyone was curious the time/date problem was caused by the battery holder being full of some sort of sticky/paper residue??? no idea why it was in there and it was a pain in the ass to clean out, but it keeps time now

now if i could just come up with a cheap solution for the glare from the backbox ill be content. even at the lowest backbox brightness setting its just super glarey, ionno if im being picky or if anyone else feels the same way

In regards to SDTM problems:

A long while ago, I had planned on fabricating some adjustable spacers so that the ball would be resting on the plunger while in the scoop, as the plunger sits about 1/4" lower than the ball, and off center- resulting in random kickouts.

If the spring washer and/or other methods don't work, I definitely recommend doing this. The spring washer did the trick for me until the code update, and then I started getting SDTM drains again. The obvious underlying problem is that for whatever reason (flashers etc), the coil pulse power is inconsistent. This was addressed in the code update by allowing you to increase the pulse power, but it is still erratic, maybe even more so.....

With the erratic pulses, all you can do is try to control what you can- the spring washer helped to prevent coil movement, this fix will help prevent the chaos from the plunger hitting the ball off center, like a flubbed billiards shot lol. Anyhow-

After some quick measurements, there was really not enough space to fit in the adjusting nuts necessary for a stable jacking plate assembly, which is good, because this is even simpler.

All you need to do is:

a) Buy a package of "HEAVY DUTY ANTI-SKID PADS" from your local home depot, or order online. SKU is 101-032 (You'll also need a #12 3/4" machine screw and nylon nut, as well as a piece of 3/16"-3/32" heat-shrink tubing)

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b) Slightly bore out the pad with a 7/32" drill bit
c) Put a #12x3/4 machine screw through it.
d) Put a piece of heat-shrink tubing over threads, then cut about an 1/8"-3/16" away from rubber pad.
e) Remove the rubber grommet at bottom of assembly.
f) Place pad with machine screw through home where rubber grommet used to be.
g) Tighten nylon nut using an offset #2 screwdriver and 7/16" nut driver.

This pad is rubber, and the perfect height once installed, so that the ball is resting on plunger when in scoop. I used #12 bolt size and heat-shrink tutubing so that it would perfectly fill existing hole in bottom of assembly bracket with zero chance of it wiggling around and wallowing out the hole. If you don't have a drill and the necessary drill bit, you could install this using a #10x3/4 machine screw/nylon nut.

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Pics installed.....?

Lol sorry about that, it's there now.

Looks like the one I made. shoot me a PM if the website is down.

http://videopenny.com/images/userlogo.bmp

Is 1.0.3 the latest software?

Thanks - Brad

Yes.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd!

Pop Bumpers Help: My pop bumpers, 50% of the time, can function completely normally and really get the ball moving. The other 50%, for instance, the ball can roll through the left lane, roll of the left bumper and then roll off the bottom bumper and never trigger the bumpers. I have attempted adjusting the bumper spoons under the playfield. They are near impossible to see. So, by trial and error, I have tried multiple different positions, but nothing helps. The distance between the switch blades looks good.
This can not be normal, correct? Am I missing something else that could be adjusted?

You have to adjust the leaf/spoon switches. As hard as it might be to access, that’s where your issue lies. You can put the game in switch test mode and roll a ball around the bumpers to see if they are triggering. If not, keep adjusting.

I did this on bottom bumper, got 50 percent, improvement. I did some trial and error doing a ball kaunch to numbers to test .

I started getting this buzzing noise which I thought was one of the speakers on my LE. I lowered the volume to zero and still got it. I have a feeling it’s something in the translite or something similar in the backbox movement causing this. Anyone experience this on the remakes?

Turn the game off. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

Yes. I did on afm classic. change the brightness on the translight. It will fix the problem

Thanks LTG. It is near impossible to see where the left bumper rod rests on its spoon, but I am able to press down straight on each of the leaf blades and the corresponding rod does not move. I believe this means they are well centered. From what you mentioned, I do believe the spoons may be doing more than just resting on the rod. What would be the adjustment to lessen their contact?

Yes. Adjust down a tiny bit. May take a tweak or two to get it right.

LTG : )

Yes, how do you adjust down to create resting instead of firm contact between the rod and the spoon? Thanks again!

Bend the leaf blade with the spoon down a tiny bit, back towards the fiberboard spacers. Remove the bracket holding the leaf blades to get at it better, but harder this way and easier to screw up. Or a point bender. Me, I use my finger.

Clean them first just to be sure. A piece or paper between the leaf blades, gently hold them closed and pull the paper out.

LTG : )

Yes. Change the back box brightness and you should hear a difference. I’ve checked about this before and it has something to do with resonance or something like that. Either way, it was relayed that it is nothing to be concerned with.

Another newbie question... I've got a Theater of Magic as well as an MBr SE, and I've had them both for about a year, so I was told it's time to change the batteries. When I changed the batteries on TOM, not only did I lose all my high scores, but all my settings as well. Had to go through and reset my settings all over again.

Glad to see that CGC replaced the AA batteries with a button battery. So my question is... Should a button battery be replaced after a year, or does it have a longer life? And also, is there a way to replace the battery without losing all my high scores and settings? Thanks!

If you change the batteries with the power on, you'll keep your settings.

Hmm, these new games don't have NVRAM?

No ROMs, so no.

LTG : )

This for your first question...

I check the voltage of the battery when I install it. Should be 3.3 or higher. Based on my key fob batteries, once the battery reaches 3.0 volts or less, it’s time to change them. I use the same rule of thumb for my pin batteries.

Check them once a year. If 3.0 or less, replace them.

You can enter your pins on pinside in your collection. There you can enter the date of the battery installation under maintenance. After one year goes by, pinside will send you a reminder email to change them. I use the feature and like it.

Thanks, everyone, for the info!

PXL_20201101_193712486.jpgAnyone having issues updating to the latest code? I'm trying to update my CE to the 1.03 version and it keeps giving me an error. I've redownload the file twice and flashed the image three different times now with the same result. I just updated my mmr using the same process and it was seemless.

Wasn't 1.03 already in your game ?

LTG : )

Stupid question. New MBLE owner. Where is the adjustment exactly to set the scoop coil for max power? I didn’t see it when going through and scoop shoots sdtm every time.
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You may need to update your software. I believe that the Scoop adjustment was added later (and may not be listed in the manual).

Anyone know what the most recent code is? Mine says 1.06B on start up

1.0.3 is the latest on their site.

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/monster-bash/update

Yeah i'm running 1.03, no choices for scoop i can see. Maybe i'm missing something.

It is on the next page under Game Features Menu....

Capture (resized).PNG

L eject strength ?

I believe it is the right popper coil. I think the left one is referring to the creature.

That's correct

Correct and from the patch notes:

Added setting to keep right popper coil activated longer to help avoid center drains from the popper.

I believe it was 1.01 but I'll have to double check now. Mine was one of the first CEs off the line and has never been updated.

Adjusted, was going SDTM 100% now 50% but even if it doesn’t it barely hits left flipper. I ordered the washer recommended on this thread. Any other known fixes? Thanks for any help.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/monster-bash-remake-mbr-owners-club/page/145#post-5800923

I confirmed it's version. 1.01 any tips on updating?

Follow the instructions on the website.

LTG : )

Their update is a pain. You need a micro sd card

PXL_20201101_193711552.jpg

I did and it gives me this error.

Try to reach edwin at cgc. He will know what to do. I can't remember how I got thru updating, but harder than sterns

Are these still around with dealers?

Anyone know where I can find an LE nib?