(Topic ID: 222461)

Monster Bash Remake (MBr) Owners Club (with Poll & Pics)

By MrSanRamon

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 9,330 posts
  • 732 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Dashmonster
  • Topic is favorited by 277 Pinsiders

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“Monster Bash Remake (MBr) Owners Club (with Poll & Pics)”

  • I'm in on a CE 77 votes
    9%
  • I'm in on a SE 172 votes
    21%
  • I'm in on a LE 396 votes
    48%
  • I'm out for now 182 votes
    22%

(827 votes)

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There are 9,330 posts in this topic. You are on page 114 of 187.
#5651 4 years ago

Hi Guys:

New to MBr, so maybe a dumb question here...

"Sometimes the 'start' button flashes during gameplay.

I assume this is part of the programming so here are the questions:

What did I shoot to make it start flashing?

What is it supposed to do if I push the 'start' button while it is flashing?

Thanks.

Roger

#5652 4 years ago

start button flashes if you make skill shot depends on which monster

#5653 4 years ago

One other thing about the scoop SDTM’s, I found a mechanical solution that I have done along with the wavy washer and piece of foam inside the scoop. I literally locked the old visegrips on the top and gave the whole scoop a 1 to 2 degree twist to the left. This now aims really hot shots out of the scoop right at the pivot of the left flipper, no higher, and when it poots one out, like a misfire or soft eject, the ball gets to at least the meat of the tip of the left flipper, as in it will always rebound to the right flipper or rebound to be controllable. No more STDM or loss of control. CGC has told me they are looking at this issue when I talked with a rep about it, but I said since I have got mine tweeked, I have had no major issues since. I am getting to MOR regularly, my CG is 540M+, and so I consider mine as good as she gets right now.

#5654 4 years ago

Flashing launch button means you have a monster bomb qualified and ready for use. You get monster bombs by making the skill shot, you get them from scoop awards, and tomb treasure awards too, I believe, also qualifying a monster a second time before starting their mode gets one too, like completing Dracula if Drac attack is lit... but anyways a blinking red button means you can press it and it will complete one level of a currently running monster mode, and you get extra points, I think for using it to complete the last shot in a mode.

#5655 4 years ago

Thanks, so much, guys....

I said 'start' button but meant to say 'ball launch' button!

It's clear now, so thanks again.

Roger

#5656 4 years ago

A container is about to ship to the UK. Nice.

#5657 4 years ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

One other thing about the scoop SDTM’s, I found a mechanical solution that I have done along with the wavy washer and piece of foam inside the scoop. I literally locked the old visegrips on the top and gave the whole scoop a 1 to 2 degree twist to the left. This now aims really hot shots out of the scoop right at the pivot of the left flipper, no higher, and when it poots one out, like a misfire or soft eject, the ball gets to at least the meat of the tip of the left flipper, as in it will always rebound to the right flipper or rebound to be controllable. No more STDM or loss of control. CGC has told me they are looking at this issue when I talked with a rep about it, but I said since I have got mine tweeked, I have had no major issues since. I am getting to MOR regularly, my CG is 540M+, and so I consider mine as good as she gets right now.

How did you fix SDTM off dracs feet? It's getting to the point where I actively try NOT to hit the ball up top so it doesn't go off the feet and SDTM. I just hope for wolfman from the scoop hah. I've only ever had 1 SDTM from the scoop, so no issues there yet.

I did tighten up the side drains (lowered the top bumber down) and there are far fewer super suck side drains thankfully. It was really taking the fun out of the game when anytime a ball hit the side or off the lower bumpers it would end up down the side.

Dracs feet are my next big issue (after the side suckage, which is fixed)... the left ramp is tough but I have it down pretty good now. My left ramp seems to stall the second it hits the lower curve (unless hit perfectly) entering the ramp... rattles around on the way and stops partway up.

#5658 4 years ago

Assuming you start at dead level, tweak both of your right legs to be a turn or two higher than left. Reduced my drac feet issues significantly.

#5659 4 years ago

Wow....looks like a lot of shipping has been going on. Hopefully my LE will be in soon also.

#5660 4 years ago

I spoke with Ryan at CGC and he had me really crank hard on the wireform. I just wasn’t doing it hard enough. It finally “gave” and allowed me to bend it. I went a little too far at first, bent it back a tad, and now it works just like it should!

Quoted from Bublehead:

This is a bit long, but I have extensively worked on my left bride ramp to make it smoother. The difference between OG and the remake is the shape of the stainless wall and the shape of the wire form matching each other. Since there is a misshaped difference, the ball will come off the rails and sling around the corner riding the wall and the outside wireform rail. When it gets around the corner, they start to match back up in shape and the ball falls back onto the wire form rails and trys to get up and over the hill. This allows the centripital force to be reduced, the acceleration reduced, and so when the ball gets to the final part of the hill, it runs out of momentum and fails to go over the top. You want the left bride ramp to be smooth, you have to bend either the wireform or the stailess wall to make the ball ride both rails and the wall as it goes around the corner and it converts all the centripital forces into linear acceleration to send it up over the hump. This was the biggest and hardest issue I have had to tweek out, after the scoop SDTM and Dracs feet SDTM which was the most pressing issues to keep the arcade patrons happy (the wife, me). I eventually tweeked the stainless to be closer to the same shape as the wireform, and then moved the wireform on its mounting nuts to give me the best result as you hit the really tight shot between the phantom flip targets. If you were to disassemble the whole upper left of the playfield you would be able to shape the stainless a little better. This is what is really wrong as far as how it came from the factory. But now that I got it rolling good, it just feels good to hit it.

#5661 4 years ago

Where on the wireform? I guess w/o knowing what it "should" look like, I can't tell if anything is wrong with mine. Solid shots seem to make it every time, it's the waffle shots that don't.

#5662 4 years ago
Quoted from Jigfrog:

How did you fix SDTM off dracs feet?

I slightly bent the ball guide inward and it solved the problem of Drac kicking the ball SDTM

#5663 4 years ago
Quoted from rad:

Did you use a kit or wire your own LED strip? If kit, which one? If you wired your own LED strip - how/where did you connect that? thanks.

https://lermods.com/products/monster-bash-remake-pinball-led-strip-interactive-rgb-trough-light-kit

It's super easy to connect it, took me two minutes

#5664 4 years ago
Quoted from Jigfrog:

How did you fix SDTM off dracs feet? It's getting to the point where I actively try NOT to hit the ball up top so it doesn't go off the feet and SDTM. I just hope for wolfman from the scoop hah. I've only ever had 1 SDTM from the scoop, so no issues there yet.
I did tighten up the side drains (lowered the top bumber down) and there are far fewer super suck side drains thankfully. It was really taking the fun out of the game when anytime a ball hit the side or off the lower bumpers it would end up down the side.
Dracs feet are my next big issue (after the side suckage, which is fixed)... the left ramp is tough but I have it down pretty good now. My left ramp seems to stall the second it hits the lower curve (unless hit perfectly) entering the ramp... rattles around on the way and stops partway up.

Small black piece of 1/16 to 3/32 inch thick adhesive backed foam pressed to the side of his feet. Now there is still a slow roll up that will come down just right that heads SDTM, but 95 to 99% of the rolls out of the jets are recoverable. And anything fast enough through the upper right gate comes down the sling to the right flipper. My left right table level is level, I do not adjust the right up. I consider my machine “as dialed in as an OG” since right now I am getting MOR just about weekly, Bashes, Mosh, and Frank MB’s daily. She plays like 20 years ago in my minds eye. And she is beautiful. GC right now is ~540M, but the MOR champion default 200M has not been beat yet, freaking 198M is my best so far.

#5665 4 years ago

Threw up a measly 161M bash only game before turning in. Went through 3 Franks and started but didnt finish b&c 3 times, one frank had 5 out of six monster modes stacked, finished 5 intruments in one mb, then hit bash before starting bride (like usual) and finished the game leaving 5 instruments on the table, a special, and an extra ball. This machine shames you to push the start button, over and over...

#5666 4 years ago

What would cause the phantom flip to occasionally not flip? This happened on my game several times yesterday after playing several hours and it did it on both sides.

#5667 4 years ago
Quoted from Moeman65:

What would cause the phantom flip to occasionally not flip? This happened on my game several times yesterday after playing several hours and it did it on both sides.

Phantom flip is triggered by 3 things: a regular switch, an Opto and a proximity switch on each lane. Check under the playfield that the proximity switch hasn't gotten loose. It's held in with theee plastic clips and they aren't perfect. The switch needs to be as close to the surface as possible

#5668 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Phantom flip is triggered by 3 things: a regular switch, an Opto and a proximity switch on each lane. Check under the playfield that the proximity switch hasn't gotten loose. It's held in with theee plastic clips and they aren't perfect. The switch needs to be as close to the surface as possibleThanks for the info. Found out mine has been redesigned. It has sensitivity adjustment and is set to 3. Increased it to 4 and will see how it works.

#5669 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Phantom flip is triggered by 3 things: a regular switch, an Opto and a proximity switch on each lane. Check under the playfield that the proximity switch hasn't gotten loose. It's held in with theee plastic clips and they aren't perfect. The switch needs to be as close to the surface as possibleThanks for the info. Found out mine has been redesigned. It has a sensitivity board set to 3 so I Increased it to 4. Will see how that works out. Sensors are mounted better too.

#5670 4 years ago
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#5671 4 years ago

I'm considering purchasing the MB (limited) but maybe I can save a few bucks and just get the SE? It's odd that they would price them so close, the main aspects that I like more in the LIMITED is obviously the Topper (can be purchased on its own?) and the plasma disk. The rest of the differences aren't important to me.

I also quite like the MUNSTERS (B&W) but most everyone seems to think that game sucks at this point, so I assume MB would also have longer shelf life and resell value.

All opinions welcome!

#5672 4 years ago

Topper can't be purchased separately unless someone with a LE wants to part with theirs.

Supposedly munsters and MB are similar...but I haven't played one so I can't say for sure. I think MB theme is a bit more timeless than Munsters even if it is a game from the 90's.

#5673 4 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Topper can't be purchased separately unless someone with a LE wants to part with theirs.
Supposedly munsters and MB are similar...but I haven't played one so I can't say for sure. I think MB theme is a bit more timeless than Munsters even if it is a game from the 90's.

I own the LE so my opinion is a little screwed, Munsters doesn't even come close to the quality even with the addition of the mini playfield.

#5674 4 years ago

MBrLE has longer (2 year) warranty, blue metalic rails/lockdown/legs, Laser etched Monsters Plaque on lockdown bar. Plasma disk, more detailed painted sculptures, higher quality playfield screening, larger color display than CE, but same as SE. Interactive RGB LED GI, shaker motor... etc... etc...

We went with the LE... it is the bomb, and we looked at everything we could get NIB back in October of 2018

#5675 4 years ago

SE has the more detailed characters and RGB GI, same as the LE. If you can live without the topper and the lockdown bar plaque, the SE is not a bad choice at all and you could mod it to be essentially the same if desired.

Feature matrix on the product page:
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/monster-bash

#5676 4 years ago

I went with a show used CE. Basically a brand new Monster Bash with warranty for $5500. The game plays perfect and is probably one of the most satisfying pinball purchases I have ever made. I doubt I will even mod it...not even the color chip. Just having a MB with a perfect cabinet, ramps, playfield, etc. is good enough for me. Four years ago, I was trying to find a decent project MB and the prices were insane.......

#5677 4 years ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

not even the color chip.

The color chip is DEFINITELY worth the $400!

#5678 4 years ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

The color chip is DEFINITELY worth the $400!

Well, there begins the slippery slope of mods and I would probably just try to find a used SE or LE. I could add the color chip, art blades, a topper, some upgraded RGB lighting and I would have.........a modified CE with 1k in mods.

Nah, for as much as I play it and only glance at the DMD, I think I will keep it the way it is. I am pretty sure if the right deal on an SE or LE came along, I could get my money out of the CE.

#5679 4 years ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Well, there begins the slippery slope of mods and I would probably just try to find a used SE or LE. I could add the color chip, art blades, a topper, some upgraded RGB lighting and I would have.........a modified CE with 1k in mods.

All very good points!

#5680 4 years ago
Quoted from BeeGeeMtl:

I'm considering purchasing the MB (limited) but maybe I can save a few bucks and just get the SE? It's odd that they would price them so close, the main aspects that I like more in the LIMITED is obviously the Topper (can be purchased on its own?) and the plasma disk. The rest of the differences aren't important to me.
I also quite like the MUNSTERS (B&W) but most everyone seems to think that game sucks at this point, so I assume MB would also have longer shelf life and resell value.
All opinions welcome!

Please find link to different versions of MBr. The topper only comes with the LE. For us, we love the large color display.

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/monster-bash

Munsters is an awesome game. I find most people love it. Block a few of the Stern haters and you will pretty quickly realise there are only a few people complaining about Munsters. I understand why people that drop coins in to game are not that keen for Munsters. Game is hard, quite brutal and has short ball times. We love ours, game rocks.

Buy whatever you like best, or both, only you can make that choice.

#5681 4 years ago

I know the number, It's happening
Should be boarding A FLIGHT from Frankfurt to TLV next week.... Anyone else had theirs delivered to an airport ? Kind of cool...

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#5682 4 years ago

I went with the same show special deal as post 5676 gearheaddropping. I'm good with what I have and not having the color chip works for me.

I have plenty of other pins with bells and whistles and have no color chip in 4 other pins. So half my collection have them and half doesn't.

#5683 4 years ago

I am a couple of days away from purchasing a MB LE. The distributor told me they can't check production numbers and give me the highest but can confirm they have nothing under production number 100. Where is the cutoff on issue fixes related to production numbers or does it not matter? Thanks.

#5684 4 years ago
Quoted from indybru:

I went with the same show special deal as post 5676 gearheaddropping. I'm good with what I have and not having the color chip works for me.
I have plenty of other pins with bells and whistles and have no color chip in 4 other pins. So half my collection have them and half doesn't.

Best deal in pinball IMHO....

#5685 4 years ago
Quoted from gmagno:

I am a couple of days away from purchasing a MB LE. The distributor told me they can't check production numbers and give me the highest but can confirm they have nothing under production number 100. Where is the cutoff on issue fixes related to production numbers or does it not matter? Thanks.

Others can chime in, but I'm not sure there were any critical issues on MB production other than playfield silk screening, which is still probably an issue. Mine has a build date in May of this year and the decals are wrapped, but differently than on my AFMr built in December 2017.

There was a software update, but it only addressed volume issues and the custom logo resetting with a power cycle.

The LEs were not the first on the line (they did a number of CEs and maybe some SEs as well before starting on LEs) so I would not worry about it too much.

PS The serial #s are allll over the place! They have little indication of the actual production date.

#5686 4 years ago

Weekend bump on my MBr SE for sale....... I can't imagine you will find a nicer one!

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/80657

#5687 4 years ago

I woke up for the past two days with a sore throat and just kind of blah feeling.Thought I would break the boredom on staying inside with some pinball. Played a long 40 minute game on Houdini, which got me to the Master Magician mode, but FAILED as usual. Thought I would then play a quick game on MB....wrong. Had the game of my life on this game.Had 3 monsters complete as well as their instruments on ball 1, and managed to start the remaining 3 monsters as well as MB. Then started MoR at the end of MB. This was a first.I came so close to defeating the default MoR score of 200 mil with 191mil. Having made this milestone, I set my sights on Lymans Lament as I had 28 concert hall. I did get to it for only the 3rd time, but alas shot out of the scoop went SDTM, ha. I managed to end up with a score of 1.598 bil. I had 6 MB and 2 MoR.I also had my highest end of ball bonus of x80. I checked the settings ,and it was factory for Monster EB and Instrument EB. I think that I got 1 RB as a treasure from the scoop. I wanted to see how long the game took, but the audits only had a > than 15 minutes . My best guess is at least 1/2 hour game.Game was 3 ball.So much for a quick game.

#5688 4 years ago

I received my LE Thursday and just got it all set up tonight. As usual, I’m so impressed with Chicago gaming quality and attention to detail. The game is packed so well, and I didn’t have one issue after setting it up. The topper is amazing.

It always was a beautiful game and the things they added, improvements on sound, the screen, shaker integration, etc...it just takes it up a notch.

#5689 4 years ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

I woke up for the past two days with a sore throat and just kind of blah feeling.Thought I would break the boredom on staying inside with some pinball. Played a long 40 minute game on Houdini, which got me to the Master Magician mode, but FAILED as usual. Thought I would then play a quick game on MB....wrong. Had the game of my life on this game.Had 3 monsters complete as well as their instruments on ball 1, and managed to start the remaining 3 monsters as well as MB. Then started MoR at the end of MB. This was a first.I came so close to defeating the default MoR score of 200 mil with 191mil. Having made this milestone, I set my sights on Lymans Lament as I had 28 concert hall. I did get to it for only the 3rd time, but alas shot out of the scoop went SDTM, ha. I managed to end up with a score of 1.598 bil. I had 6 MB and 2 MoR.I also had my highest end of ball bonus of x80. I checked the settings ,and it was factory for Monster EB and Instrument EB. I think that I got 1 RB as a treasure from the scoop. I wanted to see how long the game took, but the audits only had a > than 15 minutes . My best guess is at least 1/2 hour game.Game was 3 ball.So much for a quick game.

Awesome game!

How do you know how many concert halls you've hit?

#5690 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Awesome game!
How do you know how many concert halls you've hit?

Yes, Got the 44 to get to LL, then the counter started over and ended up with 28 more. I tried to get to 25 MP loops , but missed it by 3. I have only done that once.

One thing I have wondered about MoR- during this mode occasionally there is a shout out of Monsters of Rock. Is there a set of shots that trigger this ? I think my best at this is maybe 4 times.

-1
#5691 4 years ago

Its hard to picture but the plastic protectors from mezel are worth it

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#5692 4 years ago

I have the same question. Is there an indicator somewhere showing the number of concert halls? How do you keep track of them?

#5693 4 years ago

Newbie issue here: I am having a problem with the “D” in D-I-G not always registering when a ball goes thru the gate. Happens about 50% on plunge and maybe 25% during the gameplay. Annoying during plunge because I lose the skill shot.

What are the usual suspects for this sort of thing?

#5694 4 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Its hard to picture but the plastic protectors from mezel are worth it[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you have to remove the spacer washers on the slings to get them to Fit? I couldn’t get mine to fit and sent them back

#5695 4 years ago
Quoted from Oaken:

Newbie issue here: I am having a problem with the “D” in D-I-G not always registering when a ball goes thru the gate. Happens about 50% on plunge and maybe 25% during the gameplay. Annoying during plunge because I lose the skill shot.
What are the usual suspects for this sort of thing?

Likely that the switch needs a slight bend in the arm to register better. Put the game in switch test and roll a ball over it and see how consistent it is. Then try bending the arm to help it. It’s just a switch.

#5696 4 years ago
Quoted from Oaken:

What are the usual suspects for this sort of thing?

Adjust switch. Loosen and turn the switch body so it's more sensitive retighten.

LTG : )

#5697 4 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Likely that the switch needs a slight bend in the arm to register better. Put the game in switch test and roll a ball over it and see how consistent it is. Then try bending the arm to help it. It’s just a switch.

Loosen the switch body first. Many of them can be turned a little on one end up or down.

If someone is new to this, bending the switch arm often leads to disaster trying forever to get it right.

LTG : )

#5698 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballmlb:

I have the same question. Is there an indicator somewhere showing the number of concert halls? How do you keep track of them?

By holding in either flipper button for STATUS.
Cheers

#5699 4 years ago

Confirmed via test it was not registering every time.

Loosened switch a bit. Moved one side and retighened. Went to not registering at all with ball but yes with finger. Had to be depressed further than other lane switches to register.

Freaked out a little bit. 4 yr old came downstairs and gave me her lovey (apparently I was cursing and mommy said I needed to calm down).

Waxed playfield to calm down. Went back in and did the opposite of everything I had just done and boom. Back in business.

#5700 4 years ago

A little Modfather Magic!
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