Got the email Wednesday that my first NIB Pin (MBR LE of course) should be shipping early next week!

Thank you for posting this. I bent the metal wall on mine in a slightly different spot, where the ball was riding the right wireform and the right metal guide wall. This has dramatically reduced failed bride ramp shots. Before, direct bride ramp shots would work maybe 1 out of every 10, and now it's more like 7 of 10.

For anyone who is still having issues with the scoop and SDTM... I was still having this issue yesterday until I finally found my large vise grips and took care of the problem permanently. Locking the vice grip on the top of the scoop, think of it like pinching the edge of the scoop left and right, with the right side of the scoop having the bent metal edge, and then locking the grips down tight. This now gave me purchase to tweek the twist of the whole scoop just a little to the left, so now it shoots the ball to the left flipper 100% even when it “poots” and missfires, it gets it to the middle of the flipper. Strong ejects kick it right to the pivot point on the bat or a little lower. Way more controllable and flippable after scoop ejects, and no more SDTM from the scoop. I will take a photo if anyone wants to see how I grabbed the top edge and how to twist it. This is not for the weak stomached, weak handed, or weak minded, because it takes a good pull to bend it and you need to be careful not to do any damage to anything else. I highly recommend this mechanical “adjustment” as now my STDM’s come soley off Drac’s feet every once in a while now due to a slow rolling ball and a bad bounce.

Fortunately so far my scoop lands left flipper every time with a strong kick. No issues with it.

Drac feet is another story. I moved the machine out of position to wax the pf and now I definitely hit Drac into SDTM more often than before, so any movement of the machine appears to effect how it sits inside. It's not a tremendous amount, but seems to happen when I'm having a good game :/

I will say, anyone who said this game is easy..I just suck. This thing drains the outlanes almost as bad as my AC/DC.

And if you have the pf at 6.5 degrees, the outlanes are even worse... I can see why people jack this game up to 7+ and those outlanes are the reason.

Yeah I think I have mine at 7.5....top of bubble is in the middle.

I feel very fortunate

Same here... my ownership has been nothing but a great experience AFTER they got it delivered. And the tweeks to get it playing smoothly have been frustrating, but fairly simple. Now if the outlanes would just calm the fuck down for a few good games... “Switch all outlanes to ‘Super-Suck’- switch ALL outlanes to ‘Super-Suck’... Maintain maximum Outlane Suckage until further notice... that is all”

Had my best game today 867 mill. The best parts were making 2 objectives. Got Lyman's Lament for the 2nd time. I also got 25 center shots to get to a second Mosh Pit. somewhere in the second Mosh Pit there was applause from the audience and the display had hands signing Shaka- which was a 1st for me.

I have a CE and love it. It is the perfect fit for me. I very much like and appreciate the SE, but didn’t want to spend the extra money for it. As far as the display, I bought the color upgrade which is great. The extra large screen looks great also, but I personally don’t look at any screen much during the game. Love the CE for my use.

Ya Baby! This is like a brand new release for me. I have only played it a few times before this purchase.

I only went with the classic addition on this but man it is awesome.

There is nothing in the 5K market that can compare to this.

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Yeah I agree but more like $6700.

Is there a way to tone down the sensitivity of the slings, they go off at the slightest graze by the ball. I checked the menus and couldn't find anything, was wondering if anyone has a solution or is this just part of the game play to figure out.

Adjust the switch itself. Mine were also super sensitive so widened the gap a bit and all better.

There is a way, but you need to physically adjust the switch. If you've never done that, I recommend you buy the Leaf Switch adjuster tool from your favourite pinball parts website/supplier, and watch a few video/text guides on "adjusting leaf switches" either on these forums or on youtube. There's a bunch of varying quality. The only advice I have is to try to adjust as close to the base as possible, and always the short side.

I'll look into it, thanks for the help

Please turn game off first.

Thank you.
LTG : )

Yes, this is also good advice.

Some quick pics for @who-dey....
300+ plays...
And now she has the cutest dimples... and lots of them in this area. Basically the dimple epicenter is here and they get less dense as to head towards the flippers. Ah the joys of HUO ownership. And you got to love knocking the new off a NIB machine. I will say, however, these look tame in depth compared to the ones on my Family Guy (around the fart targets) after 255 plays when I first brought it home from Expo in 2008. They never got much worse, so I figure these will flatten out pretty well after 10,000 plays.

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Nice to see you got your game and are playing the crap out of it!

Anybody had any problems with the RGB LED bulb covers popping off? I had one of the two under the right Bride ramp break? or pop off. The only way I can get to it is to take the whole ramp assembly off, and I really don't want to do that.

I had the same thing happen. I put in a ticket with CGC and they sent a new bulb. Sounds like a recurring problem.

Congratulations Bubblehead, that sure is a beautiful game buddy! Sucks that you had to wait so long but it looks like it was worth the wait.

Thanks Who-Dey , been playing more pinball than I thought I could... with 3 “new” (ok 1 new, and 2 “new” to me) machines to play, 2 of which are fricken amazing- one because it is a brand new 20 year old design, and my Central Park, which is 53 years old and plays like it came out of the box yesterday. My South Park needs a chip replaced to get the lamp matrix working, but there is a lot of restoration work yet to be done on it. I have 50 new lamp sockets to replace all the broken ones, that is going to take a while to do, along with a major cleaning, plus cabinet needs new decals, which the currently available ones are a bit “Dude, weak!”

After two weeks around the country on a truck, I got my machine this morning (#901). Box was pristine. Pretty excited to build it tonight after kids go to bed.

I got it partially unboxed and I noticed some blemishes on the cabinet corner. My intial reaction was "no big deal", but since this is my first machine I thought I would double check with the community.

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It doesn't look that bad. Just get you a marker the same color and touch it up you'll never see it again

Every game ever on day 2. Just sharpie it and PLAY THE DANG GAME!

I thought theynstopped the wrap around decals? It may not be a big deal to some but i wouldn't be happy i can tell you that. At the prices they are charging i want to be the one that puts any scratches on it if it gets scratched.

@Oaken, I realize it's an expensive item, and you might expect it to be perfect, but I'd also advise you to not be particularly obsessive about pinball tables if you're going to collect more of them in the future.

Pins get beaten up and knocked around. If you ever move your pins you're likely to add some damage to them of about the scale of that scratch. And if you buy any table that isn't NIB it will certainly have damage like that.

Incidentally, my MBr's cab lost a chunk the first time I moved it. There's maybe a 1" square splinter from the bottom of the cab that pulled out, pulling some of the side decal with it. I'm going to treat it to avoid a growing of the splinter.... probably some wood glue and perhaps some clear packing tape so there's no edge to grab. Annoying, but pins never stay perfect forever.

My AFMr came with a small hole in the box, which I peeked through and only saw a minor dent to the back of the backbox, so I accepted it. I later noticed that the inside of the backbox is cracked from the impact (in a big X shape), but you don't see it unless you take the translite off. I decided it was way more trouble than it's worth to deal with trying to get a new machine, so I let it go.

If I were buying used, something like that wouldn't concern me at all because 99% of the time the machine is up against a wall. I'd expect only a $50-100 discount for something like that on an otherwise mint machine.

Some people would be livid at something like that, but at the end of the day you just gotta do what makes you happy.

They said they were going to but still haven't stopped doing it. My MBr made April 9th still has wrapped corners, which is like over a month after they said they were going to stop doing it.

Took me awhile but got it fully built last night. Let me just say that without you guys and these forums I don't think I would have been able to do it.

More than once I was stuck staring at a part going "what the hell is this and where does it go?" A quick topic search here provided the answer.

A big thank you to everyone.

Has anyone installed a proper knocker in their game? The over the speaker one is cool and all, but that real knock is nice.

I've also tried all the drac feet adjustments and still get the occasional STDM. Is there any other fixes besides bending the arms? Has anyone filed the hole a bit to add some more room to the adjustment?

After a couple hundred games, it's wearing in nicely and plays super smooth besides dracs feet.

Does anyone have video of a classic edition with the color upgrade kit? I can't find any examples of it online anywhere. Just wondering what it looks like.

Check the TPF report on Pinballnews.com , There may be some in the videos there. CGC had some there and I helped install the color chips before the show opened.

LTG : )

Got the MB CE yesterday. My granddaughter 7 who really doesn't play much played so many games on MB I couldn't believe it. She did quite well much better than many of my scores, and had at least 12,000,000. Only left when when it was time to go home school night.

Initially had some problems with drains from the right after launch now its better after leveling adjustment. I had my neighbor over he was here for 2 hours playing. He's big on b/w games and has some of the best. Really enjoying it. Cheers

10:28 a brief shot of one.

LTG : )

Congrats on getting your first pinball table going! You picked a heck of a nice table to start with!

Got my LE (#919) a few days ago and it plays with no issues so far. Scoop shoots the ball to the left flipper everytime with little or no variance and no bounces off Drac's feet.

This machine is a beauty.

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Which flipper is it SUPPOSED to spit to? Mine spits solid left 100%.

depends greatly only what pitch your machine is on. If it's set up higher, it is more likely to hit the left flipper. but this is also a good way to avoid Drac's feet

My scoop is 100% left flipper. Haven't messed with scoop at all. Rarely do I have any issues with drac feet. My pitch is 6.7-6.8.

The issue I do have is that any shot with any sort of strength that goes up the center lane has about a 90% chance of coming around and going SDTM. Very annoying. Weaker shots that dribble around are okay. Any suggestions?

I have had a ball ride the top of the the left loop twice which was kinda fun to see...until it drains.

Mine and every one I've ever played goes to the left flipper.

My fault - my comment was about the orbit, not the scoop. Scoop should be 100% left flipper. If it's going to the right, there's something wrong. The coil power may be too low

Mine is left flipper no matter the playfield angle. And on a dead bounce it always bounces to the right flipper nicely.

I get a bounce off Drac's feet if the ball bounces down the right orbit, as it sometimes does when exiting the pops. On a Full Moon Fever orbit it's nice and smooth to the right flipper.

Tesla coils from mezelmods.com

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I think I like the originals better...I think actual plasma balls would be way cooler though.

On the site it says it includes one Tesla coil. so do they come in sets of two or is it 40.00 for just one?

Their site says per coil $80 feels pricey for this one. Their Frank table is excellent though.