Quoted from knockerlover:I followed the treasure cove instructions explicitly, no acetone, no priming. The paint spattering technique, at least from the can I was using the spatters came out a lot bigger than in their example.
Hmmmmm.
Quoted from knockerlover:I followed the treasure cove instructions explicitly, no acetone, no priming. The paint spattering technique, at least from the can I was using the spatters came out a lot bigger than in their example.
Hmmmmm.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hmmmmm.
I don't mind doing it again if you have an alternative approach, that you think would look better!
Quoted from knockerlover:I started working on the coindoor.
Doing a full MB restoration, yet refinishing and re-using a one-slot import coin door? Get a better door.
Quoted from knockerlover:I don't mind doing it again if you have an alternative approach, that you think would look better!
Quoted from littlecammi:Get a better door.
You guys have sold me. I was thinking I could keep the cost down a little, but I know this is going to bug me.
pinball life used to have a pretty good price on those entropy doors, but I don't see them listed any more
marco specialties still carries them for $219
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/09-61000-X
Quoted from knockerlover:I followed the treasure cove instructions explicitly, no acetone, no priming. The paint spattering technique, at least from the can I was using the spatters came out a lot bigger than in their example.
The spattering technique is something you need to practice but once you get it, it's pretty simple.
don't listen to that asshole, he can't paint worth shit. it just so happens that all his paint jobs look so bad that they actually look like the splatter technique!
Quoted from j_m_:don't listen to that asshole, he can't paint worth shit. it just so happens that all his paint jobs look so bad that they actually look like the splatter technique!
Unprovoked!!!!
Another suggestion....take the tip off the can and add small washers. If the spacing is right, you'll get spatters by just depressing the tip.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Another suggestion....take the tip off the can and add small washers. If the spacing is right, you'll get spatters by just depressing the tip.
Said now verified,Bryan has a depressing "Tip"
The decals came from pinball decals and were packaged very well. A mailing tube wrapped in bubble wrap in a well marked box.
They look great, although I expected to see massive differences between the two on the bottom that I bought from a pinside and these. A few of the colors on the PD ones are a little deeper/darker, the other ones were rectangular. Overall they look great though.
Need to get the cabinet primed and put these things on!
Using the "wet" method. I cleaned the surface with glass cleaner then sprayed a soap and water mixture on before the decal.
Applying the decal, and working all the bubbles out (bondo spreader again) and my trusty pinball restoration partner overseeing things.
Trimming the edges with a razor blade. I found it worked really well to hold the decal firmly in place with the squeegee and run the razorblade along side it.
The finished product.
Decals done on the lower cabinet as well! The headbox decals were small enough that I could remove the adhesive paper backing all at once and position it easily. The side decals were a little trickier as, and what I found worked best is to pull back about 10" of the rear of the decal and stick it gently where I wanted it to sit. Then inspect the sides and front to ensure the decal is evenly covering all of the cabinet, once I'm happy with how it's lined up I soaked the cabinet w/ my soapy solution and started to squeegee it on about 6" at a time making sure to get all the bubbles out I could.
In cases where little bubbles couldn't get out, I used a tiny pinhead and poked it and squeezed out the air/soap water until flat.
This definitely looks easier than it is. When people say that the decal will pick up any imperfection in the cabinet, that is absolutely true. I was happy with how the original decal looked for the most part, except for the legs, so I figured this one would look fine. I still used bondo on the sides, but if I could go back an do it again I would probably do several applications of the bondo to ensure everything was completely filled and flat.
Here are some of my lessons I learned:
1.) Bondo, sand, Bondo, sand, sand, prime, sand, prime, etc.
2.) Things you can't see on the bare wood, you can definitely see with primer.
3.) These decals REALLY stick to themselves, if that happens it is very difficult to rescue without stretching the decal.
4.) Be liberal with the soapy water solution, somehow it evaporates or dries quickly and I got stuck with a decal position I wasn't 100% happy with but made it work.
5.) Cut a good portion of the white space off the decals to make them easier to work with, but leave yourself some room to work with the exacto/razor blade.
6.) Dont cut the edges too quickly or too slowly, as the decal could "pull" causing a wavy cut line on the edge. I had to do a couple of passes using the squeegee as a guide/holding the decal down as I went to get a good clean straight line.
7.) Don't work the squeegee too hard as the decal could tear, if the decal starts to feel like there is some resistance, let up on the squeegee and try a different approach.
Looking good so far! Are you stripping the bottom of the PF too, or just going to rework everything and clean in place?
Quoted from mavantix:Looking good so far! Are you stripping the bottom of the PF too, or just going to rework everything and clean in place?
Eventually I'll move everything over to the new mirco playfield when it gets here.
To apply the decals wet, I like a brayer a lot better than a squeegee. It lets you press pretty much as hard as you want without risking messing up the decal.
https://www.amazon.com/6in-Soft-Rubber-Brayer-SBA4129/dp/B0017D3D2G
Quoted from lb1:To apply the decals wet, I like a brayer a lot better than a squeegee. It lets you press pretty much as hard as you want without risking messing up the decal.
amazon.com link »
Man. That's a really good idea.. sort of like a J-Roller when doing laminate. Too late Next Time!
Quoted from knockerlover:.. sort of like a J-Roller
I knew a lot of these back in my high school days
It's been about a week since the latest update, I've made a little progress working on the machine. Taking littlecammi's advice I put a brand new B/W coin door in and lockdown mech.
I received new rails, lockdown bar and hinges and am trying to decide exactly how/where to powdercoat. I'm thinking I'll have them done in a nice dark green, but still pondering on all the colors. What do you guys think?
Mirco playfield should ship today, and I've been talking with Ron Kruzman about clearcoating. Other little parts from various places, plastics, pop bumpers, etc. have been slowly trickling in.
A good majority of the upper playfield parts were in the tumbler for a few days, and I just pulled them out and sorted them into drawers. I used exclusively walnut media and flitz this time, and was very pleased with the results.
I've pulled all the toys off of their mechs and gave them a bath this morning in purple power and scrubbed them. I'm on the fence about attempting to paint them myself, or heading up to games workshop to find a model guy to take on the job for me.
I can't recommend Kruzman enough. He CC'd my IPB pf and it looks amazing. Well worth every cent.
Also, I'd recommend sending the monsters to ModFather. He does each set differently, and does outstanding work (and quick too).
I finished my restore in July, from it being an unplayable piece of garbage, imported from Italy, to it's beauty now.
Keep up the good work, and updates.
Quoted from knockerlover:It's been about a week since the latest update, I've made a little progress working on the machine. Taking littlecammi's advice I put a brand new B/W coin door in and lockdown mech.
I received new rails, lockdown bar and hinges and am trying to decide exactly how/where to powdercoat. I'm thinking I'll have them done in a nice dark green, but still pondering on all the colors. What do you guys think?
Mirco playfield should ship today, and I've been talking with Ron Kruzman about clearcoating. Other little parts from various places, plastics, pop bumpers, etc. have been slowly trickling in.
A good majority of the upper playfield parts were in the tumbler for a few days, and I just pulled them out and sorted them into drawers. I used exclusively walnut media and flitz this time, and was very pleased with the results.I've pulled all the toys off of their mechs and gave them a bath this morning in purple power and scrubbed them. I'm on the fence about attempting to paint them myself, or heading up to games workshop to find a model guy to take on the job for me.
How about a green like this. To bright?
Quoted from MustangPaul:How about a green like this. To bright?
Not necessarily. Is this yours? Would like to see some installed.
Quoted from littlecammi:Doing a full MB restoration, yet refinishing and re-using a one-slot import coin door? Get a better door.
I understand what you're saying and why not re-do everything while he's at it, but what's wrong with a one slot euro door?
Unless the thing is damaged, dented or rusted out, I say spruce it up and keep that. Pay homage to the game's origins and where your game has been or where it all started. I think that tells a story and is way cooler than a standard 2 or 3 slot US door. But that's just me, I'm a sucker for romanticizing the hunt and history behind these machines.
My TFTC has a one slot euro door, with a British pound currency label, and I actually really like the conversation that's started around it when a guest notices it. The game has been across oceans and back again.
Plus, with the one slot, you can always put a really cool label design in there, like a skull, or Frankenstein face to light up. That would look cool too while leaving some token of the game's originality. You can always re-apply a new door later if it really does bother you.
Also, great job OP! This thing is going to look amazing. I love MB.
I suggest staying away from the oversized plastic protectors. You risk messing up the decals. You want these http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711 possibly with some felt protectors too on top.
Quoted from lb1:I suggest staying away from the oversized plastic protectors. You risk messing up the decals. You want these http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711 possibly with some felt protectors too on top.
I'm using these on every restore from now on. Put them on an EM cab I'm almost done with and they are great.
Quoted from knockerlover:Not necessarily. Is this yours? Would like to see some installed.
The wireforms on my BF are this color. On the work order from the coater is says "Sparkle Granny Smith/Dormant" then under it is says"049/50032" and the Clearcoat box is cheched. So it looks to me like Sparkle Granny Smith with a clear coat. That would look wild on MB and then with my green Leg Light-Ups and Beatmasters green shooter housing light up you'd have a KILLER looking inside and out. My mod fits over the Stern type of protectors so you don't have to worry about wrinkling the decals but you would have to get the 2 3/4 inch leg bolts, the Refinery show quality chrome bolts are that length and they are beautiful, I have them on all the front legs of my games that are blinged out.
Quoted from MustangPaul:The wireforms on my BF are this color. On the work order from the coater is says "Sparkle Granny Smith/Dormant" then under it is says"049/50032" and the Clearcoat box is cheched. So it looks to me like Sparkle Granny Smith with a clear coat. That would look wild on MB and then with my green Leg Light-Ups and Beatmasters green shooter housing light up you'd have a KILLER looking inside and out. My mod fits over the Stern type of protectors so you don't have to worry about wrinkling the decals but you would have to get the 2 3/4 inch leg bolts, the Refinery show quality chrome bolts are that length and they are beautiful, I have them on all the front legs of my games that are blinged out.
I did buy the 2 3/4 gloss black leg bolts. I thought with green legs it would look kind of like Franks neck.
Soapy water, nylon brush, air dry? Or do you do something different?
I actually just had to repair a 906 socket on an under PF board on my STTNG, and learned my lesson about inserting 906 LEDs (pull the board out of the game to insert them). Fortunately the lamp base pulled cleanly and didn't damage the board pads/traces, so it was a quick solder job to reflow/touch up.
Quoted from mavantix:Soapy water, nylon brush, air dry? Or do you do something different?
Simple green and a tooth brush. Hit it with the air compressor then finish in the oven at 150.
Quoted from knockerlover:So this got here today. I know I should send it to kruzman for clearing. But I'm not sure I can wait!
SUPER!!! You really should have Kruzman do-it-to-it but you's have to wait at least 6 weeks before you put parts back on.
Bunch of parts with the powder coater now. Ended up having him do the granny sparkle smith as mustang Paul suggested. The swatch matched frank and creature on the decal really well. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out.
Getting legs, hinges, rails, lock down bar, habit rails and trying something different and getting the inane metals done also.
I had all my figures set to go out to modfather, but then I figured.. I have nothing but time on my hands.. waiting for the powder coater to be done, the playfield to cure, and then.. out to get redone after that.
That being the case.. I thought to myself.. let's learn how to paint figurines! I have zero painting talent, and am really terrible with colors in general. I watched a few videos on youtube about basecoating, dry brushing, and wet washing.. as well as painting faces. Not a terrible result I dont think for an hour or so of work!
Quoted from knockerlover:I watched a few videos on youtube about basecoating, dry brushing, and wet washing.. as well as painting faces.
Great job! You have the link to the videos? I'd love to learn how to paint like that.
Quoted from knockerlover:I can't believe how much fun I'm having with these figures.. might be a new hobby in here somewhere.
Your gettin good.
Quoted from Dante:Great job! You have the link to the videos? I'd love to learn how to paint like that.
This is the first video I watched.
From there you can pretty much watch any similar video to learn different styles and techniques, but these three are what I used the most.
I think the mad scientist is definitely my favorite. I like the creature also. I'm definitely more comfortable painting models with more definition to help guide the painting then trying to paint it myself.
I was also surprised how well the frank wood table came out, I painted it black first, let it dry then painted brown with a brush.. and used a striping comb until I liked the wood grain look it had.
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