(Topic ID: 68910)
Linked Games
Monster Bash
Williams, 1998
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Peoria, IL
1 year later
Quoted from burningman:Did a quick search on the thread and trying to figure out intermittent switches on the wolfman orbits. Both sides. Happens most often on the left. Most of the time not registering at all.
In test mode, switches register by ball and finger banging, but in play, only register intermittently and some plays, not at all. Also when testing it only registers the correct switch, it's not activating any others.
Any guesses as to what could cause this?
Just worked on same problem on mine. Worked fine in test mode, not so good in gameplay.
I just replaced both switches (brand new). Got tired of trying to readjust. Seemes all good now. 
1 year later
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:What did you replace it with?
A type of bycycle grease. I can check the label.
On my machine Dracs gear box had screws holding it together. Easy to open just hard to clean out old a get back together. Take a pick of gears first as you may have to scrape out old grease out. The grease I used is called Shimano premium grease, for bicycle bearings. I also used this high quality grease on my gearbox for TZ clock gears.
Quoted from allsportdvd:Okay I’ve cleaned Drac’s motor up but now I keep getting errors that switch 1 and 2 aren’t working as well the motor continuing to run at the 1 and 5 positions. How is this supposed to align? I also tested all opto’s in the switch test and all work fine
Are you testing it in service menu? Or is it giving error on its own?
I do not remember any alignment. The motor just runs and the optos tell the machine where drac is. Does your drac always run at same consistant speed?
Mine was pretty buggy to till I cleaned out gear box and put the fresh grease in. Also as a special note. This is one of those machines you should not turn off during a game. You may get a fake error that might take a while to clear it. TZ, Popeye, MB and White Water.
2 years later
2 months later
Looking for these IDC wedge base lamp sockets with diode, for Junk Yard machine. These go in the translite housing assembly. I think it is same as MB. The corrosion keeps getting worse and lights do not work sometimes. I would like to buy some. New or use is good, does not matter. Can anyone help locate these. I need 5 white ones with diode, and one black one, no diode. The black one with a cable tie on it is close. But does not fit. That is from macos.
LAMP SOCKET - WEDGE BASE#24-8818IDC lamp socket used in System 11 and newer pinball machines. Reference: 24-8818
Help please!
5E57418D-3EB4-4227-8AA5-FA49075C00C9 (resized).jpeg7A7CF5FB-A5B2-42F2-BB11-BF17E40CC81E (resized).jpeg7D6C7135-B7E7-4717-A083-26C652743EDD (resized).jpeg97C12BC9-DE7F-47C5-8E32-DF2C1E6D5FA9 (resized).jpegFCE48BC4-544E-4C7B-A2DB-994497352FE1 (resized).jpegThanks for help. I got some of these. I will try to word it so next person can search it successfully.
B/W WPC 95 lamp socket back box. Yes these will fit. They do not look the same as originals. Pinball life has then with and without diode. Yellow no diode. White ish diode.
423465AD-F3EF-4B1E-AE59-B325306FB783 (resized).jpeg 2 months later
1 year later
1 week later
Quoted from rx3:I've also had roll over switches that test fine, but don't actually activate during gameplay. I know that sounds unlikely, but it's actually a thing with Williams switches. They get dirty inside. It wouldn't hurt to replace them with new switches, They're cheap.
Yes, me too. On the switches that test fine and still get error. Replace switch all good. I think the term is switch bounce. Makes connection but doesn’t hold, hold it.
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