Joined the club on Friday.
P_20200208_164754 (resized).jpg

Has anyone gotten detail pictures of the "improvements" made to the MBr?
Specifically interested in the Lit Moving targets, plasma disk, and most specifically the Lit Drac coffin.

Would the "Premium Sound System" be nothing more than a PinSound board?

My bride seems to stick with her head up. Haven't looked at the mechanism yet; any suggestions?

First on my list is a ColorDMD, a Pinshield, followed by Pinblades. Not sure what else the game really needs but I'm sure I'll find something.

Has anyone tried UV lighting the PF? Does it fluoresce?

My first mod for my New-To-Me MB... was to install the 1.06 home roms.
My eeprom programmer is as old as dirt (EMP-30) and it refused to hold it together long enough to program a SST MC27C801-100 "pull" from China.
Every time I tried to program; it'd fail at a random address. Finally; I think the moon pulled just the right amount of gravity against the electrons and it programmed a chip with repeated "patching"... it sudden started programming the device so I pulled my hands back from the laptop/programmer until is passed. :whew:

I have a newer USB / XP compatible programmer on the way from FleaBay… so maybe it'll have better luck for next time.

My next mod for my monster bash was to document the painting of my Monsters on my blog. I started with Gill (Creature) in Part 1:
Gill

And in Part 2; I tackled the Mummy:
Mummy

I'm not sure whom I'm going to tackle next. I’m still trying to decide which of the remaining monsters is easiest to remove. I’m guessing the Bride of Frankenstein might be the next easiest… but I’m not sure how her assembly is put together. I somewhat hopeful that I just remove the screw on top of her head and then her head comes off the pogo stick – then maybe her body will just slip over the stick.

Has anyone done removed Bride?

Great thanks!
I thought about add wolfman; but I couldn't really figure out where I'd put him - nor which one specifically to get on fleabay.

Are you going to add detail to Drac? he already looks pretty detailed at first glance. I htought maybe changing his shoes but haven't given it a lot of thought.

I was wondering the same thing.
I have a vinyl cutter and was eventually planning on creating a mylar for it... but I haven't progressed more than "I should do this" phase.

Cool. Nice work on that cover.

I worked on my MB yesterday... well got a prototype project working...

I got my proto Drac Coffin LED strip to work.
P_20200229_005841 (resized).jpg
I need to do a Fab B as I have a connector issue to work out; but it worked exactly as designed - after infinding a shorted solder bridge and a incorrect silkscreen diode indicator.

If she did; it'd be safe to tell'um to go du*k themselves.
I'm about 80% sure she's using store bought fabric which is should have been licensed from Universal. As a result; her product is 100% safe to sell without fear of a C&D. That said; I can't see the art clearly enough to be sure if it's something custom.

Now; if she custom printed the fabric in some way... then yeah; she'd have a problem.

That said; David better have some Stern Pop Caps on that star trek.

New mod installed today:
ColorDMDLCD
Such a welcome update from that Orange DMD. The two hardest parts about this install was finding a small enough USB stick... and installing the display upside down initially.

Not an expert on this game; but does the up/down bank run in diagnostics?
I know from my design work on a mod for the game; that there is one switch which tells the game when the targets are "up" and one which tells it when it's down. They both have to be set for the extremes of the up/down travel.

If the motor doesn't run in diags; check the driver board. Make sure the dc motor is connected properly to the driver board.

NM- I was confusing drac driver board and the frank driver board.

Brian,
Thanks for you're post... They need to be roasted and attacked to be honest.
What they are doing is simply theft and unacceptable. I am about 90% sure this violates Pinside's Terms of service.

I'd actually like to make a couple of requests from you.
1) Can you talk and/or work with CPR to get your alternate translite made into a mirrored backglass? I'd much prefer to have that than their current offering.
2) Are you interested in doing some additional art for the MB game? I have an idea for something which would proably be right up your alley. If so; feel free to PM me.

John

Can someone post a picture of two places in their game?

1) the back connection on top of the inlane where the ramp attaches to the lane guide.

I recently upgraded the pop skirts, bases, and bodies on my game... and something about that attach point on the ramp feels wrong. I reassembled with all the part I remember... that back point attaches to a threaded post on the inlane IIRC. and there is a 11/32 ?#6-32? nyloc nut that secures the ramp to that inlane.

When I reattached; it felt like the ramp should directly attach to the threaded post; maybe need a standoff or something. Today while playing a game; I noticed I had a slow ball "hang" in the ramp wireform. Which hasn't happend before. I'm wondering if I lost a part of something.

2) blue/black The ball and chain plastic on the left wireform. Again; I pulled this plastic - and now don't remember which way it went. The way that "looks right" seems to bend over "Egor's" arm... which didn't seem right.

Thanks. I can't see the connection point clearly enough because it's obscured by the foreground wireform.
I've indicated the point I need in your picture.
pasted_image (resized).png

Otherwise; that's how I thought the ball and chain plastic went on; but it doesn't appear to fit "ideally" there.

Perfect; that's exactly how I have it installed.
But there is a dead spot just past the orange double ring post on the left.
I wonder if I managed to bend it when I was trying to get it out of the way while installing the popcaps.
I'll grab a picture next time I'm at the machine.

My mummy always opens on "mummy mayhem".
However, mine never opens on Monster Bash.

I'm working on several mods for Monster Bash - original they tie all together. One of mine is a Drac coffin light that only lights when he's not in the coffin. The other is a RGB strip mod for Frank, the scoop, and trough. Again; still in development; so not a lot to offer yet.

My game has spots that light when Frank is down and with the mummy is open. Is that not stock?

The lamp here:
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4441&picno=21497
should point at mummy when open.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4441&picno=9810 should point at Frank. Or am I missing something?

Kudos to you on these.

That said; I'm very confused. Most of these characters have to be public domain by now... At best; maybe owned by Universal. PPS / Williams has zero rights to these art products as the art really isn't even "material" the the game they designed decades ago. Sure maybe there is a "nod" to the game... but the art isn't even close in style.

Regardless; These look nice - I wish you the best in selling these kits.
Admittedly; I'm temped for my MB - but I'd have to do a complete art conversion... which doesn't make a lot of sense to me right now. IF you ever do a complete art package with mirrored back glass; I might be interested.

I know. That why I said "Mirrored" backglass.
That said; I really have no desire to line Mr Personalities' pockets.

Look at the schematics and trace that coil to the driver transistor(s).
The diode probably caused you to burn out the driver transistors.

Yes if it shorted closed.

I'm not an expert on this game... but I've seen other swap from other unused channels. I saw it done on my Bally Star trek with SCRs; so OPs did it normally. Doesn't Amazon prime TIP102s? https://www.amazon.com/Bridgold-TIP102-Bipolar-Darlington-Transistor/dp/B07TWMT52G

Diodes are easy to check on with the diode test on a modern multimeter.
I'm guessing it's a chip. Probably one of the comparators.
Figure out if two of the comparators are shared with R1 and R6; if they are both part of the same package - replace that package.

Yes, some of them.
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?cat=198

I had problems with one of those optos. I ended up replacing it.

I did not order TCST1103
but the NOS part:

NOS Williams/Bally 5 Leg Opto Assembly
SKU: 5490-14575-00
which is looking like it's out of stock.

I don't think 1103 will work as the defender/drac optos are 5pin jobs.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-5-leg-opto-assembly-replacement.html
looks like the correct part.

Check for cold solder joints and bad LED resistors.

Nearly impossible to do on the Drac optos... you can't get a qtip in between the emitter and transistor.

Williams side armor does not match Stern. At a minimum; you'd probably have to patch the button holes and drill some new ones.
I'd love to say doing side armor is easy... but; the problem isn't the design - it's the bending needed.
I don't know anyone in the states that advertises they do custom armor.

Anyone have any tips for troubleshooting or adjusting the orbit gates on this game?
Right now my gate appears to be partially open so the ball doesn't always go from the launcher to the lanes.
I don't think I have a electrical issue... I think the gate is not quiet right from a previous owner.
No idea how one goes about adjusting these.

seems like you should take this to a Pin2DMD thread; not the club.

Pictures... worth more than a 1000 words.

I see an obvious BooBoo right at the eject hole (which appears to have a cliffy)
Is there clear coat damage near the drac cofin / orbit?

I'd think cutting some mylar with scissors would yield the best results.
Make a paper template which covers the area from the eject hole to the drac slot and covers the area of damage.
Make another paper template which covers the damage on the lower slot.

Once you have the paper template done and are happy with it.
Transfer the template to some mylar and cut it out with scissors and/or exacto knife.

Wax the PF before application (in these areas covered by template) and apply.