A-19308 is the blank spinner target (spinner with wire). It is used in Circus Voltaire, Monster Bash, No Good Gofers, Road Show, Theatre of Magic and Who Dunnit. I'm not aware of anyone having this in stock and is hard to find.

A-22268 is the entire MB spinner assembly but not aware of anyone having this either. Not sure if the MB Remake uses an identical spinner and whether it can be substituted but that could be worth looking into or otherwise trying to pick up a spinner from a parted out machine (any of the above games would be suitable and then you just need to stick on the MB spinner decal) - this is what I had to do.

spinner (resized).png

Tangles has them in stock - I have them in my MB and works a treat

https://www.tanglestech.com/Smart-Eddy-Board-Monster-Bash--a-re-designed-“Eddy”-proximity-detector_p_37.html

When I was looking to fix mine (pre-MBr) no one had replacements either but I was able to source a spinner from a different parted machine that used the same spinner (A-19308) - it is used in CV, MB, NGG, RS, ToM, WD

I assume that the MBr would use a similar spinner, just not sure whether you could get one of those or whether it'd fit an original spinner assembly.

Hope this helps

Yes and it is the same - so works for the 6 original B/W plus the new MBr. Glad to see this back avialable

Wow that playfield looks in fantastic condition - no insert wear on the instruments, no damage on the drac track, the cliffy maybe covering some wear but from the rest of the playfield I doubt it. One thing I would do is to replace the blue plastic leg protectors as they will cause decal wrinkles or tears, the metal leg protectors are the way to go. Congrats - you've got yourself an amazing pin!!!

Leaving the plastic leg protectors on may end up causing more wrinkling. My advice is to get some metal leg protectors (screw them on and cut the decal around the edge of the protector, remove the cut decal from under the metal protector). You can also try removing some of the wrinkling by lightly heating with a hair dryer and working them out. If you like the look of the blue plastic protector or need to cover some of the wrinkles you can put them over the top of the metal protectors - but now they will slightly stand off from the decal and not cause any more wrinkling.

This sounds like a 5v reset which is a common error on WPC & WPC95 machines and is well documented.

A quick (temporary) fix is to use a Kahr board https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

However if you want to troubleshoot and address the issue (which it sounds like you do) then the below will help - the majority of the below is word-for-word from "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" but it has some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.

"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

Great pickup - nice PF!

Here's some ideas for making the game harder
- In settings under utilities, set U9 Presets to Install Extra Hard (this will turn off ball save, no Frankenstein body parts or Dracula letters are given at the start of the game, and the timers for Drac Attack and Ball & Chain are reduced)
- Turn off extra balls
- Also open up your outlanes to max and if wanting to you can remove the rubbers off the outlane posts as well

Not seen this sort of issue before ... maybe time for another coffee

If you do solve it please post what it was as I'm interested to know

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Williams/Williams_Monster_Bash_instruction_cards.zip

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Bally/Bally_Williams_Price_cards.zip

If you know their part number or size, you'll be able to find them in the MB parts list (from ipdb.org) which will then show you which assembly they are used in. Hopefully that'll be enough to figure out where they go or someone will then be able to take some pics of the assembly in question.

My game says the factory settings are Off and 3 respectively

Is this what you are looking for?

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/lamp-socket-p-2189.html?_route_=lamp-socket-p-2189.html
https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Light-Bulbs-and-Sockets/Sockets-Lightbulb-sleeves/lampsocket-wedgebase-for-backbox-williams-system-11-and-wpc-old.html?language=en

http://www.pinshakers.com/ makes a shaker that is compatible with WPC95 games including MB

And here as well

https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Game-Specific/Williams-75/Monster-Bash/Monster-Bash-Coffin-Cover.html?language=en

Think MB would really benefit in having a skill shot though - they did it for AFM and MM … and maybe some others as well

A star post

058EB428-06EC-4C62-AD41-EFC9D127005D (resized).jpeg