yes MB sound is very good - Star Trek TNG speakers seem to suck - upgrading them makes a big difference even more so if you do pinsound !

Yes I'm still running the original speakers in Star Trek TNG. I have Pinball Pro speakers in MB. It sounds like it was made yesterday.

I think they mastered the art of recording and equalizing the audio samples on Monster Bash. I've never played a cactus canyon in person, but I've got to imagine it's similar. You have to find a "sweet spot" in terms of what frequencies are recorded (as in, how much high end, how much low) so that when it's put on a chip and played back, it sounds as you intend it, and intelligible, etc. Even though it is pretty spot on nowadays, back then it was still kind of an art. AFM is not too bad but it doesn't seem as good as MB.

I'll tell you what is atrocious though - Doctor Who! I can't tell what the hell they are saying in that game, and I'm a fan! That's not WPC95 but is a perfect example of what NOT to do...

Slow news day around here.. here are some pics of my Ron Kruzman cleared and repaired playfield, hot off the presses! I will be doing the swap in December, looks like.

Also, a question:
I need to get my frank off the game to clean him up properly. The previous owner had stripped one of the Allen bolts so he is now stuck to the table mech. Any suggestions on getting that off?

IMG_2186 (resized).JPG

IMG_2188 (resized).JPG

Wow, beautiful playfield. With stripped screws or bolts you can usually apply some negative pressure and get them out while unscrewing. Like lifting up with a flat screwdriver.

I will try it! Poor frank...

carefully Dremel a slot and use a flathead screwdriver

That was my first thought too - but the bolt is inset in the frank body too far - I can't use the cutting wheel, it would dig into the figure

I was going to try the heat gun, on the chance that it would melt any gunk in there to make it easier to turn, but it seems too risky

Try tapping a torx bit close to the same size into the hex. I have done that in the past with some luck.

exactly what I was going to suggest, also maybe a metric that is close in size as well.

Thanks guys - I am going to have to try something a little more dangerous I think - both great suggestions, unfortunately did not work. I am starting to wonder if I've got crappy tools here!

Most times with this kind of problem is when using crappy tools first is that you sometimes ruin the fastner.

Right exactly - this one came to me like this - I only realised it when trying to get the figure off to clean and repaint him, and now I don't want to damage it

Happy National Monster Bash Pinball Day!

Wait, what!? that's great Miss my MB, getting it back sunday...

Anybody know of a good adjustment for the right ramp so the ball isn't flying off the wire when it comes around too fast?

Wow, talk about a coincidence! I was just going to ask that exact same question. Surely someone has cured this problem before and is willing to share. Thanks guys.

I know it’s a common issue; I thought my game was missing a plastic or something for a long time.. but it’s just how the game is. A friend of mine suggested maybe the ramp can be adjusted, I am looking at it now

I played a MB a few weeks ago; I think it was at Pinball Life's open house and I noticed that the right ramp played as smooth as silk. No balls jumped out of the wireform or even rattled around. Don't know who the owner was, but that machine really played well as far as the right ramp is concerned.

I've never had it happen on my machine.

Not an issue on my machine as well I think in all the games played on it maybe one ball if that dropped off the wire, not common at all.

Check levelling if balls are flying out.

There's a plastic over the top of the right ramp on my game.

I’ll post a video - it is -rocketing- out of the wireform. Not every time, mind you

It's got to be a ramp adjustment. That has never happened on mine and it plays FAST. However, it happens all the time on my AFMR. I don't have it quite dialed in yet. It may be a pain, but I'd say you just need to tinker with it.

I just created a thread on this, but thought I'd ask the question here as well .

Has anyone attempted or has fixed the typical wrinkle issue that MB cabs have? A friend recommended to use a blow dryer where the wrinkles are to heat the area up where I'd be able to smooth out the decals. I was wondering if anyone has attempted this before, or, if someone has a different suggestion?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I’m not sure that this problem is unique to MB but I was literally today talking with someone about how to address the wrinkling.

Yes a hair dryer or heat gun on LOW will help relax the decals a bit - the adhesive will melt and the decal itself will begin to heat up so you can smooth it over. You have to be incredibly judicious with the heat- too much and you destroy the decal irreversibly. Put the Heat on for 1 or 2 seconds, then see if it has started to soften. Try another 1-2 seconds. Don’t do too much at once

After you get it heated up, smooth it down gently with your finger, and work in very small sections. You’ll have it laying down nicely soon enough.

Then put the newer style metal cab protectors
On and throw away those plastic ones!

Rdoyle, thanks so much for such a quick response! Appreciate the input! I guess the trick here is to go slowly. I wasn't sure if heating this area would be the best approach since it could melt the decals if you go to.close with the heat gun. I guess the best approach is to try the hair dryer first. Thanks again!

Let us know how it goes

I do it with a heat gun on setting I or II, on its lowest setting is probdbly comparable to a hair dryer.

You know: “go slow” isn’t exactly the right way to put it - you want to get the heat on there quick and as soon as you see the vinyl start to change shape, remove it quick and gently use your finger to move the decal back flat. Takes a couple of applications but if it gets too hot, you can’t go backwards and the decal is wrecked. You are better off applying it in small bursts.

Remember the heat will be cumulative so the more times you apply it in a short period the hotter it will Be overall.

Also be careful with moving the decal too much - you will need to press it down but don’t pull it other than to smooth it down, it will rip in a microsecond.

Does anybody know what size the 2 screws that are used on Frank to screw him to the table? I just removed him and the screws are stripped so Iwant to replace them with new ones

New member here. Mine came in today. I bought a prototype. Supposedly #2. I played a couple balls on it but had to rush off to work. I noticed there is an EOS L flipper Switch error I will need to address. The switch looked good when I peaked through the coin door but won't register. The game is in really nice shape. I plan on putting mirror blades on it, some custom colored rubbers and pop bumper rings. I will post pics when it is done.

Consider the Sillyoldelf blades - they are PERFECTLY matched to the game art. What Color do you plan for the pop bumper rings?

I put mirror blades in. Eos switch was a broken wire. I bought a bunch of different colored led rings from pinballlife.com. I'll mess with those when I do the rubbers.

Looking for a light tub that goes in the backbox #03-9419-50065 Can't find it anywhere. Let me know if you have one laying around and would like to sell. Thx!

detail (resized).jpg

Were these ever remade? I’ve seen a number of threads about this in the past

Hey rx3
If you can't find an original, consider making one by buying a blank and drilling holes for lamps. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9419-500XX
Actually pretty simple. Pics are of my MB insert panel which I made by converting a different game's insert panel. More pics at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/theres-one-more-monster-bash.
Wally

100_8991 (resized).JPG

100_8992 (resized).JPG

Does anyone know how long it takes for the phantom flip to start working? I reset the data when we got the machine a couple weeks ago. All switches work and the feature is enabled. I heard it sucks but would still like to see it work a few times.

It doesn’t suck, it’s just not perfect. It should just take 3 or 4 games to get working, but it needs a certain number of balls going down the inland and hitting a ramp successfully. If you have a couple crappy games it won’t work . But a couple WEEKS is quite a long time. You may have a bad eddy board; check your switches. There is an opto and a mag switch on both outlines. You need to use a ball and roll it down the inlane to the flipper to test the mag switch.

Also check your eddy boards both have LEDs indicating they are receiving power

Okay, eddy boards do not have leds on. However, in switch test mode when I roll a ball over they register and the light comes on when the ball is over the sensor like a typical eddy switch. When I play a game and flip the right flipper the light on the board comes on and then when I flip again it goes off or if the right sling fires it might come on. Sometimes I have to flip a couple times for it to go off or cone on. The left flipper firing directly above the eddy board doesn't cause the light to come on so I don't think it is caused by vibrations. The left eddy board light only comes on in switch test as you roll ball over sensor.

Scratching my head on this one. Maybe I will swap the boards around.

Any thoughts? Are the lights suppose to stay on constantly?

All inlane switches and optos register in switch test as well.

All right, apparently the LED is not supposed to stay on, so it sounds like that is goood.

Do you have any credit dots? This brief thread might be worth a read:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-pinbits-monster-bash-eddy-microcontroller

And there’s an improvement documented as well, as the Pinbits replacement boards are not always readily availAble.

The culprit might be the other switch on your inlanes; I can’t remember the name of it. I believe the eddy boards control the “flipper proximity switch” so it might be the other one

Funny, I was just reading that thread. Seems like a lot of work to get something to work that is from the factory. I think the fact that my eddy board light stays onwhile flipping and then goes off while flipping is an issue. At least I know the lights should stay off. Now I have to figure out why mine stays on.

What's strange is my left eddy board seems fine, yet that side doesn't work either. Sounds like in the other thread the guys side with a good board worked.

It looks like I have the upgraded pinbit chips based on the chip sticker. I Snipped off c3 on each board. No change.

20180109_195442 (resized).jpg
20180109_195431 (resized).jpg

Well I swapped the boards and had the same problem on same side, so I know that it isn't the boards. I figured it has to be the sensor directly under the right flipper which makes sense because when flipper fires it turns light on and off. I pulled it out and reseated resistor. Seems to be working now, well at least the light doesn't come on unless a ball rolls over sensor. Still can't get phantom flips to light but I only played about four games. I'll monitor through out the week. Im sure I'll put in all this research just to disable feature later.

It took mine many games before phantom flip started working. I even removed the glass and rolled the pinball in the lanes to speed up the learning process.

Yeah, you have to have enough rolls down the inlane AND make a whole bunch of shots (various shots) before it will start working. If your switches register correctlly, it may just take some time

Do the sillyoldelf blades come back up for sale regularly? Would like to purchase a set...

... he's got a shop... RIGHT here on pinside. Or you can PM him

They show sold out. Thus my post.

Curious to know how you can tell if a MB pf is an original or repro?

Anyone?