I would be happy to custom paint the MB figures for anyone that wants to upgrade the lackluster paintjob provided by the factory circa 20 some odd years ago....

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How are the rubbers holding up after all these months? Glow-wise and play-wise?

They look great! Glow-in-the-dark stuff always reminds me of growing up in the 80's...

They look and play great. Still really glow. I did put an LED black light bulb above the game... makes the playfield and rubbers "pop"! Funny that you are asking... Last night was the first time I had to change a flipper rubber. I had a spare on hand. Seems like it wore thin at the tip of the flipper then broke. The other flipper has the wear area starting, but still OK. No wear spots on playfield rubbers... Got dirty once so I wiped them clean with rubber cleaner (PBL) and they look brand new.

Bump. Any answers to the question below? Thanks to anyone who knows. Seems weird to have a pf under with no light behind it...

Is there a light bulb socket in the chain floating around under the playfield somewhere?

I didn't see one! Nor did I see pilot holes where it would be drilled into the playfield. Seemed really weird though.

I'm assuming you are talking about the one next to Frank? Either way, yes, all of my phantom flips have a socket underneath. If you zoom in the attached PF pict, you can see them lit up.

I can take some detailed pictures this weekend to help you identify the wiring if that would help.

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Man, that's a beautiful machine. I would love some close ups of that area. I can't actually remember which one it is right now!! I'll see if the guy can send a pic. It would be great to know where it should be wired in. I have a spare socket, and I would assume I could just add it in to the matrix somewhere?

Thanks. She wasn't always that pretty. While it was a one owner game, I don't think they cleaned it once.

Am not sure why there isn't a dimple or socket. But since it's the same matrix, I don't see why you couldn't run your own wires and punch them into the socket. Again, PM me this weekend with your email and I'll send you detailed pix when I get back to the machine.

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Nice job! It almost looks like you photo-shopped the dirt in, it so bad. Did you do a complete tear-down to clean it? Days? Weeks? Months?

The backstory on this was the machine it was a one owner machine and he had it at his baseball clubhouse. The story seemed legit as the machine was covered in that fine baseball field dust, I mean everywhere - on everything. Between the layer of dirt, black rubber on the PF and numerous switch errors - I had no choice but to do a complete tear down.

For the tear down, I did it in sections. I followed Vids guides on cleaning and ultasonic + polish all the plastics, novus 1, 2 & wax on the PF and a ton of work on getting all the switches and drac gears back in order. That fine baseball dust had clogged up about a half a dozen switches - which I de-soldered and gave an ultrasonic bath. Overall, am very happy with the machine but it still needs a little more work and some new decals. Once the weather gets better, I'll be stripping/prepping the cabinet and going back and regraining some of the guides.

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That playfield looks awesome, nice work!

Where did you buy yours? Can't seem to find them on their site, maybe discontinued?

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/3181

HA, great, thanks!

Is your kit 100% complete and tested?

Complete for my game with just a couple extras. I feel like there can always be a post that someone changed here or there that may need a different rubber. You can cross check it with the other kits to be sure. I'd also add a second set of flipper rubbers... those will be the first to wear...

Hi, I'm working on a partial MB restore for a friend and I can't get the right proximity sensor and therefore phantom flip to work properly. The LED on the auto eddy board will come on and stays lit intermittently without a ball present at the sensor. I've reflowed the board connectors solder, verified continuity on the sensor wire and connectors all the way through. It will detect the ball in switch test but if I leave it in switch test I can see the eddy sensor switch flicker and then stay on eventually. I'm guessing my next step is to replace the auto eddy board and sensor cable? I found the board at Pinbits but I can't find the eddy sensor anywhere. Does anyone have a source for this? Thanks!

Can't wait until the restoration on mine is finished!

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Are you sure both are broken? I'd swap out the left for the right board/sensor and try to determine first if it's a the board, sensor or both.

FWIW, I had the same issue and went thru the same tests and fortunately it was just the board. Ordered a new one from Pinbits and now everything works perfectly.

Yeah you're probably right. I'll do that to confirm. One of the leads of the sensor (resistor?) was broken outside the connector so I soldered it back together. Not ideal and it's a cheap part so I'd still like to replace it if possible.

Hey Gang!

Any easy way to LED the 555 lights that are under the board with the drac trac piece. If you have done this please help. All done except for this.

Saw this and just sat there. Hahah.

Joined your club yesterday. Love it.

Thanks

Scott

Just remove the four screws holding the Drac Motor assembly. It will drop down enough to get in there.

Shameless plug This would be a great time to install my MB Scoop Light Mod

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Lee - that is exactly what I did. I bought both Frank & Scoop light mods from you at the Ohio show. While installing LEDs throughout the game, I added your mods. They look great!

Just got my MB. Does anyone know where I can get the plastic that attaches to the wire form in front of Igor?

Hey G
That would be part # 31-3219-27.
In stock at BAA. http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-MB31-3219-27
You also need a rubber ball stop 23-6828 avaiable at PPS or Marco.
Wally

I replaced most of the switches and the game is working great. It game showed no errors but the switches were so flakey. I forgot how fun the game is when it is all dialed in....

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I hope this isn't too divisive a question, but here goes: I'm going to shop out my MB and was thinking about going with LEDs as long as I'm doing the rest of the work. The only LEDs that I have used are the regular Cointaker retro warm white 44/47 bulbs. They worked well in an early solid state game. I'm afraid of ghosting and flickering in the newer game. Does MB have that problem, or did they fix that issue by the point the game came out? Also, are white bulbs OK or should I try to match the insert colors? I was looking for a color map for the game's inserts but did not find one. Finally, whose bulbs do people like? Nifty, Pinball Life, Comet, Cointaker, and all the others? I don't want to start a religious war, just looking for advice to wind up with something nice without overspending.

You mean the scoop?
Mine shoots the ball pretty much to the middle of the left flipper. If I do nothing it bounce passes to the right flipper for a nice controlled shot.

I learned here on Pinside that you can loosen the scoop bolts under the playfield and slightly re-position it. It worked for me. someoneelse is right, it should go to the middle of the left flipper. I think there is a thread or two on this.

I have my restore almost finished.

I put the question on where to connect Frank's ledded eyes wires under the playfield,
I guess I should have asked it here - but please let me know!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mb-where-to-connect-mbfranks-ledded-eyes-under-playfield

Those with a new playfields: how does the ball behave, when it rolls down beside Frank in slow speed?
In mine the ball bounces a bit at drac lane - is this normal? I have the drac lane bracket in place, but
it seems it cannot level the playfield sufficently at the end of the drac lane.

Thanks for any info!

If I remember correctly there is a setting where you can turn phantom flip on/off - so if you don't want to mess with it, you can turn it off. I had the same errors on mine and replaced the Eddy Sensor. Since then, no further Phantom flip issues. But you may want to further look into your issue before replacing the sensor as it could be either the sensor or the board. Fortunately for me, it was only one side - so I was able to swap boards to determine that it was in fact the sensor.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_7&zenid=4144a754ee8c0a3de316758a989a0027

Hmm, didn't realize they were different. I'd just call Terry from Pinball Life and talk to him and see if he has them or if he can track them down.

Just joined the club!
Is there a setting to adjust sound balance thru the speakers??

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NO, just go buy a decent Polk external powered sub (PSW 10) at 1/2 the price of those upgrade kits and you will love it. Hooks up in 10 minutes.

if you put the machine into test switches you can drop the ball past the switches and it will show on the DMD.

One thing to additionally note, when you get the switches working, the machine has to learn how to master the flipper so for a few games it will just give the 500K but eventually will start doing the phantom flip, its a cool feature.

Neil.

I have an interesting mini problem with my monster bash that I only really noticed as I played another one at a pinball arcade.

When the ball is sent up the middle area where it has the monster mosh right words on my machine as long as the mirror switch is moving the points go up, on the machine in the pinball arcade - this was not the case, it added an initial score for triggering it but stopped right away. Which one is right? I'm guessing not my machine

@ngg: Usually WPC95 comes with parallel speaker set-up in the backbox (tweeter & mid-range). They are amplified through one output (J504) whereas J505 is for the woofer in the cabinet - which means there is no choice of balancing l/r speakers. You can upgrade to a Pinsound board which actually is quite fun on the MB, see my next post...

Just finished installing my LED board which I built using a diode circuit. Connected J111 (flasher earthing) as an input while using the 20VDC voltage from J133. The board feeds a 12V LED strip (20V input reduced by a Z-diode) behind the topper, flashing together with the flashlights on the playfield. I aligned the diodes to enable the following color matching...

J111-1 (wolfman) --> white (RGB)
J111-2 (bride) --> magenta (RB)
J111-3 (frank) --> blue (B)
J111-4 (drac) --> red (R)
J111-5 (creech) --> lime (G)
J111-6 (mummy) --> yellow (RG)
J111-7 (scoop) --> cyan (GB)

Here a two videos that I shoot showing the LED stripe

...in the test mode:
https://vimeo.com/181840459

...during gameplay:
https://vimeo.com/181838515

If you are interested in the circuit layout I am pleased to share it with you. The total cost of the parts was less than 5 Euros (excl. LED stripe). Sound files come from a Pinsound board. Still doing an optimization of the sound package a while longer until I will share it on the PS community.

Cheers from good old Germany,
Alex

Picked up this restored Beauty .....what a fun pin but it definitely needs to be set up correctly. Open outlanes , factory settings , very sensitive slings and fresh wax on the new playfield and man its really brutal .20161002_225345 (resized).jpg20161002_225405 (resized).jpg20161002_232206 (resized).jpg20161002_232218 (resized).jpg

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Been a member of the club since before 2000. Was the first game I ever got, and is the primary reason I've been so involved with pinball ever since. Managed to find a really great game from an operator up near central NY, but the game was very clean, still had the goody bag in it etc. Haven't modded it at all since I've had it, but I do have a complete stash of parts to ensure that if need be, the game could be brought back to better than new.

Of note, the game is an early production line version, and the only difference that I can tell besides the serial number is Drac still has his feet, and there was no drac trac bracket installed (I have one now, but don't use it... was actually worse with it installed).

Still the one game out of the hundreds I've had through my home that the wife insists will never be sold. Everything else can go she says!

And my favorite "rare" quote is when you can get a ball back off the right bride ramp into Drac's backside while in Drac Attack, and every once in a while he'll say.. "Hey, that's my Ass!" Extremely rare, as I've only heard it 6 or 7 times since I've owned it!

May not have the depth of some other games, and while inherently beatable, this game has long lasting appeal for so many reasons, not the least of which is the fact that you CAN beat the heck out of it. And sometimes that's just what you want. My best game is 1.2 billion, and lasted for about an hour (3 ball) factory settings.

Your story sounds similar to mine, Vinnypin. This is the machine that got me "hooked" and it will be the last machine I ever sell. Your scoop still looks great - can't tell from the picture but you must have a Mantis in it - they work great.

L is for the ladies..

Any thoughts on how to improve lighting at the bottom of the playfield?