A couple of noob questions from a new owner of a Williams:

1. ROMs are revision 1.06, & is not free play-only. I understand that there's a home version (free play only), & a Williams beta version. Is there a preferred version or resource to learn about the different revs?

2. Is GI OCD recommended? All of my GIs are LEDs. I haven't come across any modes where the game's attempted dimming results in awful flickering. (I put a GI OCD into my Cirqus Voltaire, where it made an enormous improvement to fix the light show.)

Thanks,
-Jason

1) there's almost no difference between the versions - 1.06 has a couple extra callouts, if I recall correctly, differences in the 2nd/3rd times the callouts happen (e.g. if you start Frank multiball the 2nd time the doc says his stuff it's usually different)

2) Highly recommended to get GI OCD, it makes the pops dimming during mummy and (I think?) wolfman modes - very noticeable

Any toper ideas fir an original Williams Monster Bash?
From a quick search I wasn't able to find much out there.

Buy this fantastic one! =D

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/monster-bash-club/page/18#post-7027254

-Jason

I bought this one that came off an IGT slot machine. It's animated, might be a bit big, but I like it. Do some research, but I bought it off Ebay.

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here's my topper with green flashing green LED eyes

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I really really love this one

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2-monster-bash-toppers-i-made-with-video#post-3552325

Ever seen this one before? Bouncy ball lands on Frank's shins. This cracked me up.

-Jason

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Is there a MB operator's handbook? A lot of the WPC manual packs I've seen have an operations manual and smaller operator's handbook but I've never seen one for MB.

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Placed this topper few days ago. At last a topper on my MB

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Pretty cool, but I would get rid of the backlighting and put a smaller light facing up into the monster faces.

It's a LED tape that changes colours. I might make few modifications.

It just seems too overwhelming, IMO. If you could dim it with a trimpot, or something, and direct it more at the monsters faces, I think it would look better. Regardless, very cool topper.

If he adds a smaller LED strip or handful of spotlights the backlighting will look awesome!

What am I missing here? Skinny post? Star post?
It doesn't seem to be critical--I just noticed it after several months of ownership.
The Sphinx plastic was sometimes getting out of whack, probably b/c I'm missing something that protects it.
Thanks,
-Jason

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A star post

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Thank you!

Scoop kickout:
It used to consistently go to the left flipper.

Now, it usually kicks out to the left flipper.

Every now & then, it goes STDM, sometimes a few times in a row.
Rarely, it will go to the right flipper.

I took apart the mech & saw nothing obvious. Coil was mounted tightly, coil sleeve was intact, tip of plunger wasn't damaged, etc.
While it was apart, I cleaned it up, put in a new sleeve, & reassembled it snugly.
We'll see how it fares.

In the meantime, any ideas or things to look for to make it more consistent?

Thanks,
-Jason

Check under the top of the exit to make sure there is no wear from the ball hitting on the way out, maybe bend the top towards the left flipper as well

Did you find it in the machine somewhere or do you think it was never there to begin with?

I didn't find it in the machine. Probably removed or lost years (decades?) ago.

Thanks,
Jason

Scoop popper kickout fixed.
Ended up getting the A-22266 assembly from Marco.
It had a handful of issues (wrong coil sleeve, needed to file open 1/2" hole to fit coil sleeve, opto didn't work, wings for opto weren't quite parallel), but I got it all together.

The problem *may* have been a broken weld on the old unit. The equivalent weld on the new assembly is much longer--perhaps it will be more sturdy.
But the old assembly also did have its fair share of wear up top.

It kicks out super consistently now, just to the right of the middle of the left flipper. Hooray!

Thanks,
-Jason

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PS to the post above: does anybody want my old parts? Pay for shipping from USA 92620, & I'll send them to you.

- Weldment frame
- Coil
- Coil sleeve
- Plunger w/ rubber tip
- New non-working opto pair from Marco. I know the black one is broken. Unsure about the white one.
- Coil bracket
- 2 Nyloc nuts

Thanks,
-Jason

PM Sent. I live in SF Bay area.

Thanks Jason. Just curious, why did you need to replace it? I ask because I have to constantly adjust my VUC Mosh Pit to make it shoot to the left flipper and not straight down the middle.

Scroll up to post #919.

Jason

Anyone have a good pic of all the plastic / post locations for the original williams monster bash? Trying to shop out one that was routed and has many questionable plastic and post changes that i want to return to original. Thanks.

Sehr me your email on pm and I'll upload a complete set of photos for you.

I always liked to consider myself as a Pinball Scout and the truth is that I have found many great titles in the wild over the years.
This is the second Monster Bash I find. Bought it on the spot.

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Loks almost exactly like mine, whe i bought it. What did you have to pay for it?

I got a fair price regarding the market here and its abandonment.

Congratulations! I remembered reading some posts by you explaining how rare pinball is in Greece. Most people don't know how hard it was for you to find that Monster Bash!

What a response...

Thanks

Well said my friend.

When I found the first MB everyone here, including me, thought that this must was the only one in Greece. Who would believe that I was going to find a second one.

No one will say what they paid for it lol

Wanted to get thoughts on Trade Value:
Original very nice Monster Bash for NIB Godzilla Premium

Seems like a pretty fair deal.

Not really sure depends on nice your MB is if it's like my almost new with low plays some MB goes for more then a NIB so not sure it really depends if your happy with the trade

And why is that? I paid 4500 EUR for mine in 2020. Invested a lot more into it after. I now have what I wanted - a now perfect over-the-top original, which will always remain repairable. Why to be secretive about it, if someone asks out of genuine curiosity. The only reasons I could see is paranoia or unwillingness to expose themselves to unqualified opinions about it, like "You are a dumbass because you paid too much". Send a PM then. Or don't. Whatever. It's not like it was more than mere curiosity about price levels for a machine condition similar to mine two years ago.
For me this seems like not having the guts to be challenged regarding your willingness to pay. So that's an unqualified opinion I have now. So, regardless, what you say, opinions will always be there. And again - who really cares?

That’s about what I paid back in 2017 or so. Cargo shipped from the Netherlands, was stuck in NYC shipping terminal for like a month, thought I’d been scammed!

The playfield was 100% trashed. Scoop hole looked like someone had taken a chainsaw to it. Power driver board had a couple of bad TP101s and some other stuff I had to fix. One Kruzman-cleared playfield, swap, powder coat and cabinet refinish later - and I’ve got a perfect machine. Dropped a bunch of money on it right before the remake came out, but I still prefer my original.

Too much analysis I think. I dint say what I paid for it because I simply didn’t want to or perhaps because the guy that sold it to me didn’t want me to tell or whatever. It does not matter.
I don’t question someone’s genuine curiosity and if someone had indeed sent me a p.m, I was probably going to tell him. No, I am not afraid to get opinions like ‘’you paid too much for it’’ because as I said I got a good deal for it, and the price was really fair regarding the market here. What is more to say, why should I give a specific amount, what purpose will this serve to the community here for a pinball I found in Greece?

If its low it might encourage others to not overpay, which helps to keep price levels accelerating slower.
The opposite can also happen. Never mind tho. Welcome to the club IF you need support or photos of anything in particular, feel free to ask on PM - I have everything documented in extreme detail

Thanks...
Actually this is the second MB I found. The previous one I repaired abd upgraded as much as possible. It's almost mint now.

If anyone is interested in selling their MB SE or LE and you live in or around Colorado please PM me. Thank you.