Quoted from gunstarhero:
Already getting better...
[quoted image]
Looking better!
Quoted from gunstarhero:
Already getting better...
[quoted image]
Now do the double-size LED!
Oh I remember this, lol. I thought for some reason you were talking like the XL display from the remake and I was like whaaaaaat?
This is pretty cool tho and I don’t know why ColorDMD isn’t all over it... besides the fact that I am sure they’re busy enough.
Does anyone know where I can get my Figures airbrushed / painted?
I am in Europe, but still contacted modfahther. The one guy in Europe I know, Juve, is a bit too expensive for me, so I'm looking for an alternative.
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:
Does anyone know where I can get my Figures airbrushed / painted?
I am in Europe, but still contacted modfahther. The one guy in Europe I know, Juve, is a bit too expensive for me, so I'm looking for an alternative.
I'd look for locals who paint/play figurine based games like Warhammer 40k. Worth a shot at least.
So, how much did I fry and where do I start? Sounds like this will be a fun post right?
Attempting to fix flipper coils from disconnecting with the quick connect wires I decided to solder them on (removing the clips first). Did both and even had the kids help to learn how to solder. Great learning opportunity. Apparently, I swapped two wires on the left coil. Not realizing it.
Yellow-Blue and Orange-Blue were swapped.
Powered things on and bad thing happen to left coil. Chalking it up as the coil blew. (not thinking as much as I should have.) Needed to be rebuilt anyway... New coil comes in. I wire it up one wire at a time to make sure things don't get mixed up. (not knowing it is still wrong) Fuse F116 blows. This is when I realize something is screwed up. Looking over manual I find I have the two wires swapped. Fixed them, fuse replaced. Crossing fingers that I didn't toast a bunch of stuff. Power on... left flipper pops up. Power off right away and login to Pinside. (checked pinwiki as well but didn't find much there that was helping)
So, where do I start to figure out what all I screwed up? I'm not the best at reading the circuit diagrams yet but have been able to follow some of it. I haven't tested transistors (Q87 & Q89) before but seems they may be worth looking at but figured I'd get input on where to start and go from there.
Thanks for any guidance.
Look at the schematics and trace that coil to the driver transistor(s).
The diode probably caused you to burn out the driver transistors.
Quoted from Zitt:
Look at the schematics and trace that coil to the driver transistor(s).
The diode probably caused you to burn out the driver transistors.
Would a burned out transistor cause the flipper to stay up at power on?
Quoted from bikefreak:
Would a burned out transistor cause the flipper to stay up at power on?
Yes if it shorted closed.
Quoted from Zitt:
Yes if it shorted closed.
TIP102 in Q89 has failed. 0.075 & 0.499 readings.
Other transistors appear fine. (I also need to test the coil and diodes on the coil before being done)
Not having any TIP102 on hand, could I take a TIP102 from Q83 or Q86? (and not replace right away to get it running again in the short term) Q83/Q86 appear to be unused for 2nd set of flippers. I just don't know what happens if one of them is missing from the board.
Quoted from bikefreak:
Not having any TIP102 on hand, could I take a TIP102 from Q83 or Q86? (and not replace right away to get it running again in the short term) Q83/Q86 appear to be unused for 2nd set of flippers. I just don't know what happens if one of them is missing from the board.
I'm not an expert on this game... but I've seen other swap from other unused channels. I saw it done on my Bally Star trek with SCRs; so OPs did it normally. Doesn't Amazon prime TIP102s? amazon.com link »
Quoted from Zitt:
I'm not an expert on this game... but I've seen other swap from other unused channels. I saw it done on my Bally Star trek with SCRs; so OPs did it normally. Doesn't Amazon prime TIP102s? amazon.com link »
Arm twisted and ordered. Now I can make this mistake 9 more times. Thanks for the help on this one!
Quoted from bikefreak:
Arm twisted and ordered. Now I can make this mistake 9 more times. Thanks for the help on this one!
Everything all restored to normal. Even removed the GI diodes while the board was out. (And learned they needed to be done because of this)
Thanks for all the help!
Okay wondering if anyone else has seen this... when you trigger the trough 4 opto on my MB the whole switch matrix lights up. When all 4 balls are sitting in the trough I get a row 1 short and a row 6 short. When the trough is empty or there are just balls in spots 1 - 3 everything is fine.
Quoted from gunstarhero:
Okay wondering if anyone else has seen this... when you trigger the trough 4 opto on my MB the whole switch matr :thinking:ix lights up. When all 4 balls are sitting in the trough I get a row 1 short and a row 6 short. When the trough is empty or there are just balls in spots 1 - 3 everything is fine.
Not seen this sort of issue before ... maybe time for another coffee
If you do solve it please post what it was as I'm interested to know
Quoted from Manny65:
Not seen this sort of issue before ... maybe time for another coffee
If you do solve it please post what it was as I'm interested to know
It’s a problem on the 10 opto board; I swapped it with the one from my Shadow and the issue followed it. Not sure if it’s a diode or a chip on the board yet.
Diodes are easy to check on with the diode test on a modern multimeter.
I'm guessing it's a chip. Probably one of the comparators.
Figure out if two of the comparators are shared with R1 and R6; if they are both part of the same package - replace that package.
Was going through my closet and found a few gorgeous Monster Bash repro trans. I’d be Willing to sell them for $125 each shipped in the US. If interested, please PM me.
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