We're back!

After a disaster in our datacenter took down our server, we are now running Pinside on a brand new server. However, things may not work as expected as we are still polishing the playfield and adjusting some switches! We might be switching to maintenance mode a few times. Please see this forum topic for more info.

(Topic ID: 68910)

Monster Bash Club


By cjmjmm2006

7 years ago

Topic Heartbeat


Topic Stats

  • 779 posts
  • 187 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 34 days ago by Williampinball
  • Topic is favorited by 82 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

There are 779 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 16.
#701 9 months ago
Quoted from PStudart:

What´s up guys! Monster Bash base rules in 4 minutes is already online!
Hope you like it!

Pinball Mods Brasil

#702 9 months ago
Quoted from brian-allen:

Hi everyone - My name is Brian Allen, I'm the artist of the Monster Bash alternate artwork attached here. My artwork is officially licensed from Williams.
THIS TOPPER IS BEING MADE AND DISPLAYED WITHOUT MY PERMISSION.
Xtreme Custom Gaming (Ultra Custom Cabs Arcade) is STILL using my Monster Bash alternate artwork WITHOUT my permission to make a Topper.
Please understand, I am not asking you to attack his person or business.
I just wanted to make it loud and clear:
THIS PRODUCT TOPPER IS NOT AUTHORIZED BY ME, AND I AM NOT INVOLVED IN ANY WAY. It is an unlicensed product.
They claim that they are no longer selling it. However, they have been untruthful about this before.
When originally confronted, he told me he never intended on selling it. This is untrue because, in his first promotional video, he clearly said “This will be available on our website for $325”. I have the recording of this video.
He told me he would remove the video and not sell the product, and I agreed to remove my original Facebook posts about the theft.
Today, he posted a new video using the piece as a promotion. This is unauthorized use.
I’ve asked him to destroy it, and he has chosen not to.
If you choose to try to buy this from him, please let me know first. I can most likely get you one directly from the artist.
If you're interested in getting anything directly from me with this artwork on it, you can view it here:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/
THANK YOU for your time. Sorry to bug you with this.
[quoted image]

Brian, your art style is really cool. Congratz, dude!

#703 9 months ago

And specially to Monster Bash enthusiasts, base RULES in just 4 minutes is already online!

Hope you like it!

Pinball Mods Brasil

1 week later
#704 9 months ago
#705 9 months ago

Hi Guys
Thought you may like my Custom Classic edition update. ( I know some will not!)
I've had 2 minty originals and wanted to try something different and more appealing to me.
Cheers from down under.. SOrry for the blown out lighting - not to good with the phone and video.

3 weeks later
#706 8 months ago

Question, my MB is rebooting whenI first fire it up. The first few games you'll play a little and the game reboots. I'm thinking caps? One way to make it happen is multi ball or hitting both flippers at the same time. Good place to get a rebuild kit for it? I see Marco sells one.

#707 8 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Question, my MB is rebooting whenI first fire it up. The first few games you'll play a little and the game reboots. I'm thinking caps? One way to make it happen is multi ball or hitting both flippers at the same time. Good place to get a rebuild kit for it? I see Marco sells one.

This sounds like a 5v reset which is a common error on WPC & WPC95 machines and is well documented.

A quick (temporary) fix is to use a Kahr board https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

However if you want to troubleshoot and address the issue (which it sounds like you do) then the below will help - the majority of the below is word-for-word from "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" but it has some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.

"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

#708 8 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This sounds like a 5v reset which is a common error on WPC & WPC95 machines and is well documented.
A quick (temporary) fix is to use a Kahr board https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
However if you want to troubleshoot and address the issue (which it sounds like you do) then the below will help - the majority of the below is word-for-word from "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" but it has some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.
"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

Thanks for the info!

#709 8 months ago

Hi there
Can anyone tell me where can i buy this plasma balls mod? It looks very nice

4B8D1F88-DCC1-4B60-AE25-18AFFDD6F897 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#710 8 months ago

Well I bought the cap kit and diode kit for my MB from Marco. I'll install that and see how she holds up with my intermittent rebooting. So hopefully that fixed that issues then I'll confirm all the number again thanks Manny65! While poking around in the backbox, the battery acid demon was trying to strike again! Shout out to Frank Lindenmuth and his amazing button battery board, no more AA's will be used in this Monster Bash! Super easy to install even for the beginner. Some basic soldering skills and anyone can keep the acid monster away! While there are many options to rid yourself of the sooner than later AA's blowing up on you, I like Franks board because it's super easy to install and takes no time at all. Typically with NVram you need to solder in a socket and WPC's can be a bit challenging when adding a socket to the CPU. With the button board it's 4 solder points and done. Order one today right here... https://noquartersarcade.com/

50215908773_ed788d8f8f_4k (resized).jpg50216562741_031c0cd18c_4k (resized).jpg50216562876_ec1f75706e_4k(1) (resized).jpg50216563716_a3d3594668_4k (resized).jpg50216788962_33eaa750b8_4k (resized).jpg50216789047_c088f1574d_4k (resized).jpg
#711 8 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

I'll install that and see how she holds up with my intermittent rebooting.

That is more likely a stability issue on the 5V.

#712 8 months ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

That is more likely a stability issue on the 5V.

Most likely. I bought the cap kit from Marco and that's next on the list to do! Figure I'd check the battery holder and found that acid residue so off that came quickly! But yes after the cap kit I think she will solid!

#713 8 months ago

Can someone post a picture of two places in their game?

1) the back connection on top of the inlane where the ramp attaches to the lane guide.

I recently upgraded the pop skirts, bases, and bodies on my game... and something about that attach point on the ramp feels wrong. I reassembled with all the part I remember... that back point attaches to a threaded post on the inlane IIRC. and there is a 11/32 ?#6-32? nyloc nut that secures the ramp to that inlane.

When I reattached; it felt like the ramp should directly attach to the threaded post; maybe need a standoff or something. Today while playing a game; I noticed I had a slow ball "hang" in the ramp wireform. Which hasn't happend before. I'm wondering if I lost a part of something.

2) blue/black The ball and chain plastic on the left wireform. Again; I pulled this plastic - and now don't remember which way it went. The way that "looks right" seems to bend over "Egor's" arm... which didn't seem right.

#714 8 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Can someone post a picture of two places in their game?
1) the back connection on top of the inlane where the ramp attaches to the lane guide.
I recently upgraded the pop skirts, bases, and bodies on my game... and something about that attach point on the ramp feels wrong. I reassembled with all the part I remember... that back point attaches to a threaded post on the inlane IIRC. and there is a 11/32 ?#6-32? nyloc nut that secures the ramp to that inlane.
When I reattached; it felt like the ramp should directly attach to the threaded post; maybe need a standoff or something. Today while playing a game; I noticed I had a slow ball "hang" in the ramp wireform. Which hasn't happend before. I'm wondering if I lost a part of something.
2) blue/black The ball and chain plastic on the left wireform. Again; I pulled this plastic - and now don't remember which way it went. The way that "looks right" seems to bend over "Egor's" arm... which didn't seem right.

20200816_204644 (resized).jpg20200816_204655 (resized).jpg20200816_204801 (resized).jpg
#715 8 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Can someone post a picture of two places in their game?
1) the back connection on top of the inlane where the ramp attaches to the lane guide.
I recently upgraded the pop skirts, bases, and bodies on my game... and something about that attach point on the ramp feels wrong. I reassembled with all the part I remember... that back point attaches to a threaded post on the inlane IIRC. and there is a 11/32 ?#6-32? nyloc nut that secures the ramp to that inlane.
When I reattached; it felt like the ramp should directly attach to the threaded post; maybe need a standoff or something. Today while playing a game; I noticed I had a slow ball "hang" in the ramp wireform. Which hasn't happend before. I'm wondering if I lost a part of something.
2) blue/black The ball and chain plastic on the left wireform. Again; I pulled this plastic - and now don't remember which way it went. The way that "looks right" seems to bend over "Egor's" arm... which didn't seem right.

Sorry, cannot figure out how rotate. Let me know if you need more pics.

#716 8 months ago
Quoted from DavidCPA:

Sorry, cannot figure out how rotate. Let me know if you need more pics.

Thanks. I can't see the connection point clearly enough because it's obscured by the foreground wireform.
I've indicated the point I need in your picture.
pasted_image (resized).png

#717 8 months ago

Otherwise; that's how I thought the ball and chain plastic went on; but it doesn't appear to fit "ideally" there.

#718 8 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Thanks. I can't see the connection point clearly enough because it's obscured by the foreground wireform.
I've indicated the point I need in your picture.
[quoted image]

20200816_212046 (resized).jpg20200816_212115 (resized).jpg20200816_212125 (resized).jpg
#719 8 months ago

Perfect; that's exactly how I have it installed.
But there is a dead spot just past the orange double ring post on the left.
I wonder if I managed to bend it when I was trying to get it out of the way while installing the popcaps.
I'll grab a picture next time I'm at the machine.

2 weeks later
#720 7 months ago

Question for you guys, when I get the mummy, his case won't open all the time. In fact it won't open most of the time. The guy I got the game from said if you get it the one way it will open but if you get the mummy the other way it won't open. I'm still learning the game the more I play it but I thought I'd toss it up here see if anyone ran into that and the fix?

Also has anyone made a mod to light up Frankenstein after he comes up? Sad when he pops up you can't even see him in a dark game room. Would be nice to put a green spot light on him possibly. Also I'd like to get a spot light on Draq when he's moving around the PF. If anyone had tied in a spot light on either of those let me know how you did it.

I just rebuilt my driver board. Caps and diodes.

#721 7 months ago

My mummy always opens on "mummy mayhem".
However, mine never opens on Monster Bash.

I'm working on several mods for Monster Bash - original they tie all together. One of mine is a Drac coffin light that only lights when he's not in the coffin. The other is a RGB strip mod for Frank, the scoop, and trough. Again; still in development; so not a lot to offer yet.

My game has spots that light when Frank is down and with the mummy is open. Is that not stock?

The lamp here:
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4441&picno=21497
should point at mummy when open.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4441&picno=9810 should point at Frank. Or am I missing something?

#722 7 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

My mummy always opens on "mummy mayhem".
However, mine never opens on Monster Bash.
I'm working on several mods for Monster Bash - original they tie all together. One of mine is a Drac coffin light that only lights when he's not in the coffin. The other is a RGB strip mod for Frank, the scoop, and trough. Again; still in development; so not a lot to offer yet.
My game has spots that light when Frank is down and with the mummy is open. Is that not stock?
The lamp here:
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4441&picno=21497
should point at mummy when open.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4441&picno=9810 should point at Frank. Or am I missing something?

Hmmm maybe that's why the mummy is'nt opening I'm getting him on Monster Bash all the time. I'll have to take the glass off and play it a bit and see. Thanks for that tip! I do have the light on the mummy so he's good. Just Frank and Drac seem dark. Love those mods your making. I thought the same thing a led strip in drac's coffin would be cool and light him up when he's on the move. I didn't even think about checking others tables to see about the light on Frank. Seems mine is aimed more towards the bald guy there then Frank. I'll have to add a brighter led and adjust that. But yea keep up on those mods!

#723 7 months ago

Joined the club today !!

Went to a nice seller for a GOTG pro but came home with a nice MB equipped with Pinsound, Pinspeakers and Pinshaker
Pinsound is a lot of fun I must admit. Cabinet was touched up but decent. Playfield is almost spotless . So a real classic in the house. Now to make the settings more difficult, have Monsters of Rock already on almost first game .... . Any suggestions which settings to change?

Installed already a NVRAM to make sure no battery damage can occur down the road and a PIN2DMD which I had lying around.

20200905_082943385_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_085932843_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_085940008_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_085948223_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_100648207_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_100654366_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_100714855_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_100726595_iOS (resized).jpg20200905_100733830_iOS (resized).jpg
#724 7 months ago

Great pickup - nice PF!

Here's some ideas for making the game harder
- In settings under utilities, set U9 Presets to Install Extra Hard (this will turn off ball save, no Frankenstein body parts or Dracula letters are given at the start of the game, and the timers for Drac Attack and Ball & Chain are reduced)
- Turn off extra balls
- Also open up your outlanes to max and if wanting to you can remove the rubbers off the outlane posts as well

#725 7 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Great pickup - nice PF!
Here's some ideas for making the game harder
- In settings under utilities, set U9 Presets to Install Extra Hard (this will turn off ball save, no Frankenstein body parts or Dracula letters are given at the start of the game, and the timers for Drac Attack and Ball & Chain are reduced)
- Turn off extra balls
- Also open up your outlanes to max and if wanting to you can remove the rubbers off the outlane posts as well

Thanks. Will have a look at it

#726 7 months ago

The previous user already installed tasteful leds and extra leds but did today some extra myself
14AEED3D-D84E-4A39-8D21-92F692FFA78E (resized).jpegA63419D3-4278-44AA-86A5-2CBCE3DE4900 (resized).jpegF5A4FF1E-B4C2-4D0B-8623-1DFA55AC20FF (resized).jpeg

#727 7 months ago

Added a through lightning, some starpost lightning and added two spots to brighten up the midfield.

040E755A-D9C3-41C6-92EA-B4BFAD97BCDA (resized).jpegB86112C3-B503-49AB-A1AE-C9B83E19C354 (resized).jpeg

#728 7 months ago

Shot a gameplay video

It has been said befor but for a pin which is considered to be a top 5 pin this must be the quiets thread on pinside

#729 6 months ago

Brought the MB from the Garage upstairs to his final place in the gameroom keeping the other pin’s company. He is not lonely anymore

Look forward to playing it for coming year and see if he can step up against the others. Out of Space so something in means something out

FD757732-AD52-410F-B523-1F551AB421BD (resized).jpeg40E58C96-0318-4690-B207-F702586E505D (resized).jpeg4224212B-F321-4377-85F5-07AA2A84C22F (resized).jpeg2B29A19D-7FD1-4724-B641-B4650673BF54 (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#730 6 months ago

Home made plasma disk mod of less than 10USD.

03AD91F3-CB8C-47C2-BC0F-DC25F1A76608 (resized).jpeg
#731 6 months ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Home made plasma disk mod of less than 10USD.
[quoted image]

Nice, but Hopefully you wired it so it’s only 3v, otherwise it won’t last.

#732 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Nice, but Hopefully you wired it so it’s only 3v, otherwise it won’t last.

No worries. Hooked it up to the GI, than converted it to DC and than several diodes in series which lowered the voltage to approx 3V.

1 week later
#733 6 months ago

Finally got my Frankenstein targets lite! What a difference that made. One dual red bendie. When he stands up you get a tiny bit of red light on the sides of the base it's perfect. I tweaked some other leds while I was at it. Did some super towers in the slings and drac. Center of the PF is dark. Might do some post lights on the slings next. I was thinking shoot some red over towards Drac and green over towards Frankenstein. Such a fun pin.

50473717033_1f4448453e_o (resized).jpg50474570932_b15ad980b7_4k (resized).jpg
#734 6 months ago

I have a MB Cliffy scoop hole protector and Mantis hole protector if any anyone is interested. Will throw in a free Universal Studios Monsters key fob. DM me if interested with offer.

B855F40F-FF01-4341-8E97-365537E7B382 (resized).jpegE76D792B-4776-4956-9ADA-476B4B939788 (resized).jpeg
#735 5 months ago

Hi - hope it's OK to share these here - I created a set of Monster Bash Side Art Blades with my hand-drawn artwork.
Officially licensed from Williams.
Thanks for looking!

You can see more here or grab a set here:
https://www.flyland-arcade.com

MB-Sideblade-holding-1-low-res (resized).jpgMonster Bash Art Blade Watermarked-1200 (resized).jpgMonster-Bash-Sideblade-1-low-res (resized).jpegMonster-Bash-Sideblade-11-low-res (resized).jpegMonster-Bash-Sideblade-5-low-res (resized).jpegMonster-Bash-Sideblade-6-low-res (resized).jpegMonsterbash-Sideblade-SLR-6-low-res (resized).JPGMonsterbash-Sideblade-SLR-7-low-res (resized).JPG
#736 5 months ago

Kudos to you on these.

Quoted from brian-allen:

Officially licensed from Williams.

That said; I'm very confused. Most of these characters have to be public domain by now... At best; maybe owned by Universal. PPS / Williams has zero rights to these art products as the art really isn't even "material" the the game they designed decades ago. Sure maybe there is a "nod" to the game... but the art isn't even close in style.

Regardless; These look nice - I wish you the best in selling these kits.
Admittedly; I'm temped for my MB - but I'd have to do a complete art conversion... which doesn't make a lot of sense to me right now. IF you ever do a complete art package with mirrored back glass; I might be interested.

#737 5 months ago
Quoted from brian-allen:

Hi - hope it's OK to share these here - I created a set of Monster Bash Side Art Blades with my hand-drawn artwork.
Officially licensed from Williams.
Thanks for looking!
You can see more here or grab a set here:
https://www.flyland-arcade.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

wow, they look awesome !!

#738 5 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Kudos to you on these.

That said; I'm very confused. Most of these characters have to be public domain by now... At best; maybe owned by Universal. PPS / Williams has zero rights to these art products as the art really isn't even "material" the the game they designed decades ago. Sure maybe there is a "nod" to the game... but the art isn't even close in style.
Regardless; These look nice - I wish you the best in selling these kits.
Admittedly; I'm temped for my MB - but I'd have to do a complete art conversion... which doesn't make a lot of sense to me right now. IF you ever do a complete art package with mirrored back glass; I might be interested.

There is a translite in the same vain as the art blades done by the same artist so you could change both together

#739 5 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

There is a translite in the same vain as the art blades done by the same artist so you could change both together

I know. That why I said "Mirrored" backglass.
That said; I really have no desire to line Mr Personalities' pockets.

#740 5 months ago

Some lighting tweaks tonight.. Green bendie in the swamp kick out for Creech, Red twin bendie under Frank targets, Spotlight on the left slingshot with a red super bright aimed at Drac, Spotlight on the right slingshot with a green super bright aimed at Frank, waxed up the PF, and started installing some Titan super bands color matching them. The spotlights on Drac and Frank really add some light to the middle of the PF and on them as well.

50511163038_0360eeb5c0_o (resized).jpg50511163093_456d6aedfe_o (resized).jpg50512039327_cf8d59e9e0_4k (resized).jpg
#741 5 months ago

I'm helping a buddy with his MB. One of the drac mounting bolts is slightly raised on the playfield. My question is, how do you lower one? Is it just pressure fit and you can hammer it down (carefully) or is it threaded in? Thanks!
D.

#742 5 months ago
Quoted from Pedleboy:

I'm helping a buddy with his MB. One of the drac mounting bolts is slightly raised on the playfield. My question is, how do you lower one? Is it just pressure fit and you can hammer it down (carefully) or is it threaded in? Thanks!
D.

Don’t hammer it - you could potentially crack the clearcoat or worse. Take the mech off the bolts, and attach a big washer (Several is better) to the bolt in question, and tighten the nut down until it’s flush. Be REAL careful, because if there’s not enough clearance under the bolt (which is tough to tell), you can snap the bolt off. I’ve done it twice -

#743 5 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Don’t hammer it - you could potentially crack the clearcoat or worse. Take the mech off the bolts, and attach a big washer (Several is better) to the bolt in question, and tighten the nut down until it’s flush. Be REAL careful, because if there’s not enough clearance under the bolt (which is tough to tell), you can snap the bolt off. I’ve done it twice -

This is what I thought. And if you break it off, you're f'ed?
D.

#744 5 months ago
Quoted from Pedleboy:

This is what I thought. And if you break it off, you're f'ed?
D.

Well, then you’re hammering it out from underneath and replacing it, which means removing a lot of stuff from under the playfield.

#745 5 months ago

Just in time for Halloween... bleh!!F21E8AA5-7FE8-415C-94D0-09CDD79BB7D4 (resized).jpeg

#746 5 months ago

Yes! Halloween time.

4A165F39-8B85-4740-9322-D8AD680DB253 (resized).jpeg
#747 5 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Just in time for Halloween... bleh!![quoted image]

Your new MB is scary! That is, it got scared so much that it changed from a Williams title to a Bally! LOL

#748 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Your new MB is scary! That is, it got scared so much that it changed from a Williams title to a Bally! LOL

lol I had to do a double take but good catch!! lol what's up with that!

#749 5 months ago
Quoted from Mikespinball:

Your new MB is scary! That is, it got scared so much that it changed from a Williams title to a Bally! LOL

Quoted from PhillyArcade:

lol I had to do a double take but good catch!! lol what's up with that!

Lol it caused me to double take as well. I have a Williams panel and a ColorDMD ready to go tho!

#750 5 months ago

Already getting better...
786EB505-1E18-4280-AB5F-D66D17A591C3 (resized).jpeg

There are 779 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 16.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside