(Topic ID: 68910)

Monster Bash Club


By cjmjmm2006

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 712 posts
  • 180 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by PhillyArcade
  • Topic is favorited by 77 Pinsiders

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There are 712 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 15.
#701 49 days ago
Quoted from PStudart:

What´s up guys! Monster Bash base rules in 4 minutes is already online!
Hope you like it!

Pinball Mods Brasil

#702 49 days ago
Quoted from brian-allen:

Hi everyone - My name is Brian Allen, I'm the artist of the Monster Bash alternate artwork attached here. My artwork is officially licensed from Williams.
THIS TOPPER IS BEING MADE AND DISPLAYED WITHOUT MY PERMISSION.
Xtreme Custom Gaming (Ultra Custom Cabs Arcade) is STILL using my Monster Bash alternate artwork WITHOUT my permission to make a Topper.
Please understand, I am not asking you to attack his person or business.
I just wanted to make it loud and clear:
THIS PRODUCT TOPPER IS NOT AUTHORIZED BY ME, AND I AM NOT INVOLVED IN ANY WAY. It is an unlicensed product.
They claim that they are no longer selling it. However, they have been untruthful about this before.
When originally confronted, he told me he never intended on selling it. This is untrue because, in his first promotional video, he clearly said “This will be available on our website for $325”. I have the recording of this video.
He told me he would remove the video and not sell the product, and I agreed to remove my original Facebook posts about the theft.
Today, he posted a new video using the piece as a promotion. This is unauthorized use.
I’ve asked him to destroy it, and he has chosen not to.
If you choose to try to buy this from him, please let me know first. I can most likely get you one directly from the artist.
If you're interested in getting anything directly from me with this artwork on it, you can view it here:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/
THANK YOU for your time. Sorry to bug you with this.
[quoted image]

Brian, your art style is really cool. Congratz, dude!

#703 49 days ago

And specially to Monster Bash enthusiasts, base RULES in just 4 minutes is already online!

Hope you like it!

Pinball Mods Brasil

1 week later
#704 42 days ago
#705 40 days ago

Hi Guys
Thought you may like my Custom Classic edition update. ( I know some will not!)
I've had 2 minty originals and wanted to try something different and more appealing to me.
Cheers from down under.. SOrry for the blown out lighting - not to good with the phone and video.

3 weeks later
#706 15 days ago

Question, my MB is rebooting whenI first fire it up. The first few games you'll play a little and the game reboots. I'm thinking caps? One way to make it happen is multi ball or hitting both flippers at the same time. Good place to get a rebuild kit for it? I see Marco sells one.

#707 14 days ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Question, my MB is rebooting whenI first fire it up. The first few games you'll play a little and the game reboots. I'm thinking caps? One way to make it happen is multi ball or hitting both flippers at the same time. Good place to get a rebuild kit for it? I see Marco sells one.

This sounds like a 5v reset which is a common error on WPC & WPC95 machines and is well documented.

A quick (temporary) fix is to use a Kahr board https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html

However if you want to troubleshoot and address the issue (which it sounds like you do) then the below will help - the majority of the below is word-for-word from "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" but it has some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.

"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

#708 14 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This sounds like a 5v reset which is a common error on WPC & WPC95 machines and is well documented.
A quick (temporary) fix is to use a Kahr board https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
However if you want to troubleshoot and address the issue (which it sounds like you do) then the below will help - the majority of the below is word-for-word from "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" but it has some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.
"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

Thanks for the info!

#709 11 days ago

Hi there
Can anyone tell me where can i buy this plasma balls mod? It looks very nice

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1 week later
#710 23 hours ago

Well I bought the cap kit and diode kit for my MB from Marco. I'll install that and see how she holds up with my intermittent rebooting. So hopefully that fixed that issues then I'll confirm all the number again thanks Manny65! While poking around in the backbox, the battery acid demon was trying to strike again! Shout out to Frank Lindenmuth and his amazing button battery board, no more AA's will be used in this Monster Bash! Super easy to install even for the beginner. Some basic soldering skills and anyone can keep the acid monster away! While there are many options to rid yourself of the sooner than later AA's blowing up on you, I like Franks board because it's super easy to install and takes no time at all. Typically with NVram you need to solder in a socket and WPC's can be a bit challenging when adding a socket to the CPU. With the button board it's 4 solder points and done. Order one today right here... https://noquartersarcade.com/

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#711 17 hours ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

I'll install that and see how she holds up with my intermittent rebooting.

That is more likely a stability issue on the 5V.

#712 2 hours ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

That is more likely a stability issue on the 5V.

Most likely. I bought the cap kit from Marco and that's next on the list to do! Figure I'd check the battery holder and found that acid residue so off that came quickly! But yes after the cap kit I think she will solid!

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