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(Topic ID: 68910)

Monster Bash Club


By cjmjmm2006

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 729 posts
  • 181 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by Rensh
  • Topic is favorited by 78 Pinsiders

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There are 729 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 15.
#551 1 year ago

I bought some side art and gone glow titan runbers with purple flippers and bright lights button lights
On another subject.....,
I have to say for a top 3 pin this club thread is very light on at 11 pages when other games have over 100 pages in the club thread

#552 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I'm about the join the club. I'm always a fan of the original rather than the remake even though the price I paid was similar to the remake classic. Any mod recommendations apart from color DMD?

Purple 6V led strip trough light is a must. Gives you the glow in the dark effect. I have the 6V led strips at the Pinball Haus Brisbane .

#553 1 year ago

Yeah we are a bit laid back here! I did the boney flippers with blue Titan rubbers. I also used a blue LED strip behind the flippers. I went with a pair of Cointaker Wide LED purple spot lights on each sling. It lights up the center of the pf and an Awesome strobe effect (like AFM) during Mosh Pit.

#554 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

I bought some side art and gone glow titan runbers with purple flippers and bright lights button lights
On another subject.....,
I have to say for a top 3 pin this club thread is very light on at 11 pages when other games have over 100 pages in the club thread

Far less owners than most
Games - plus there somehow aren't a ton of mods. I second the trough light - blue looks great as well, kind of
Gives a black light effect on the green ink

#555 1 year ago

Hey, Could someone with an original MB with a real knocker post what version(s) they're using?

#556 1 year ago

I installed one, then turned off the fake one in the settings and the real one worked immediately. I believe I am running the latest software.

1 week later
#557 1 year ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Hey, Could someone with an original MB with a real knocker post what version(s) they're using?

1.06 here

2 weeks later
#558 1 year ago

I'm new to this forum. Just reinstalled the board that used to contain batteries, now replaced with NVRAM so never have to deal with that issue ever again. Was told that I likely have some corrosion on the pins that connect to it. I have a link to the Great Plains site for the pin extraction tools, but I'm not sure what size pins (0.062", 0.084", 0.093", etc) are used on this connector.
Does someone know?

#559 1 year ago

Bumping this awesome game club with my (last time today I promise) pics of my topper in progress:

Paint and lights to come..

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#560 1 year ago

Very Cool love to see it in action.

#561 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Very Cool love to see it in action.

Probably at least a week or two away on that. lots going on lately!

2 weeks later
#562 1 year ago

Anyone adjust the sensitivity for hits on Frank? I hit him solid and it register about half the time. Also, I have a wolfman topper I do not want. Any interest? I was thinking $100?? I will bring it to Golden State Pinball.

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4 weeks later
#563 1 year ago

Joined the club today. Awesome game!

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1 month later
#564 1 year ago

I had a problem with my MB and I thought it would be important to post about it just in case it happens to someone else.
Smelled something burning in the game room. Discovered it was coming from MB. The game was on so I pressed the start button. No ball ejected in to the trough but the game started. Opened the coin door and tried to manually eject the ball and discovered the eject solenoid plunger would not move. Turned off the game tilted the pf and removed the eject coil. The coil had a meltdown probably due to locking on. "most likely the transistor (tip 102) failed and shorted locking on the eject solenoid. I pulled the driver board and noticed that Q68 had been replaced before. Hmmm... So I replaced Q68 with a TIP 120 (takes a bit more current) reinstalled the board. I didn't have an AE-1500 coil for the eject solenoid. I did have a Bally AP 27-1300 so I threw that one in there to get me by. It worked just fine and yes the TIP 102 was culprit. I decided that since I have a really nice low play original game that I wanted to be a purist and see if I could find an original Williams AE-1500. I found an AE1-1500 on Ebay NOS. Hmmm... whats the difference? The AE1-1500 has diodes! AH that would help protect the transistor. (reverse current) The AE1-1500 was used in the Pinball 2000 games. So with the improvements I am hoping that I won't see this problems again.

#565 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I had a problem with my MB and I thought it would be important to post about it just in case it happens to someone else.
Smelled something burning in the game room. Discovered it was coming from MB. The game was on so I pressed the start button. No ball ejected in to the trough but the game started. Opened the coin door and tried to manually eject the ball and discovered the eject solenoid plunger would not move. Turned off the game tilted the pf and removed the eject coil. The coil had a meltdown probably due to locking on. "most likely the transistor (tip 102) failed and shorted locking on the eject solenoid. I pulled the driver board and noticed that Q68 had been replaced before. Hmmm... So I replaced Q68 with a TIP 120 (takes a bit more current) reinstalled the board. I didn't have an AE-1500 coil for the eject solenoid. I did have a Bally AP 27-1300 so I threw that one in there to get me by. It worked just fine and yes the TIP 102 was culprit. I decided that since I have a really nice low play original game that I wanted to be a purist and see if I could find an original Williams AE-1500. I found an AE1-1500 on Ebay NOS. Hmmm... whats the difference? The AE1-1500 has diodes! AH that would help protect the transistor. (reverse current) The AE1-1500 was used in the Pinball 2000 games. So with the improvements I am hoping that I won't see this problems again.

Holy crap! Not the post I expected to see!

1 month later
#566 1 year ago

Hi all
How quickly is Dracula supposed to move out of the coffin for Drac Attack? From the tutorial videos and running test mode on mine he seems to move fairly swiftly yet when Drac Attack starts on mine he moves out very slowly. Anyone else have this problem and what to do to remedy it?

#567 1 year ago

Mine moves slowler compared to the new remake. But I would have to see a video of yours to see how it compares. I know the motors can gum up inside after many years making them slow down some. That motor may need a cleaning.

#568 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Mine moves slowler compared to the new remake. But I would have to see a video of yours to see how it compares. I know the motors can gum up inside after many years making them slow down some. That motor may need a cleaning.

It might need a clean but it does move at normal speed in test mode. I’ll get a video up in the morning

#569 1 year ago

He moves slowly initially when exiting the coffin, to match the DMD, but during actual play he should move faster. Test mode isn’t an exact demonstration of speed while in a game

#570 1 year ago

After I realized mine was moving slowly. I changed the grease in the gearbox, it was like thick honey. Problem solved.

#571 1 year ago

How do I load a video from my phone onto the thread?

#572 1 year ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

After I realized mine was moving slowly. I changed the grease in the gearbox, it was like thick honey. Problem solved.

What did you replace it with?

#573 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What did you replace it with?

A type of bycycle grease. I can check the label.

#574 1 year ago

Okay I’ve cleaned Drac’s motor up but now I keep getting errors that switch 1 and 2 aren’t working as well the motor continuing to run at the 1 and 5 positions. How is this supposed to align? I also tested all opto’s in the switch test and all work fine

#575 1 year ago

On my machine Dracs gear box had screws holding it together. Easy to open just hard to clean out old a get back together. Take a pick of gears first as you may have to scrape out old grease out. The grease I used is called Shimano premium grease, for bicycle bearings. I also used this high quality grease on my gearbox for TZ clock gears.

#576 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Okay I’ve cleaned Drac’s motor up but now I keep getting errors that switch 1 and 2 aren’t working as well the motor continuing to run at the 1 and 5 positions. How is this supposed to align? I also tested all opto’s in the switch test and all work fine

Are you testing it in service menu? Or is it giving error on its own?

#577 1 year ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Are you testing it in service menu? Or is it giving error on its own?

Both

#578 1 year ago

Anyone buy the classic edition remake? Worth it go to special edition?

#579 1 year ago
Quoted from zaki:

Anyone buy the classic edition remake? Worth it go to special edition?

I own a MBr SE and love it. I do not know the difference though between the two.

#580 1 year ago

And mine has been pretty perfect out of the box. Just a few minor adjustments to a few things.

#581 1 year ago
Quoted from zaki:

Anyone buy the classic edition remake? Worth it go to special edition?

I have the SE. I think it is worth the extra money. Large color display, better painting on the figures, better sound and lighting.
Check the Chicago Gaming site to see all the upgrades. I added a shaker and a plasma disc.

#582 1 year ago
Quoted from zaki:

Anyone buy the classic edition remake? Worth it go to special edition?

I bought the CE. I didn't feel like the larger DMD or the color was worth the $1000. I adjusted the DMD to amber and it looks and feels very much like the original. I got it new to a show so it was $5800 delivered. I feel like it will be an easy sell if I ever need to cut it loose. It plays amazing and my kids love it.

I should also mention that I don't have color DMD's in any of my games so I might not be the best gauge for the SE upgrade value. The CE has all the right stuff. Build quality is excellent.

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#583 1 year ago

I’m having a tilt issue on my MB. I took out the tilt and slam tilt but it still does it.

#584 1 year ago

I do not remember any alignment. The motor just runs and the optos tell the machine where drac is. Does your drac always run at same consistant speed?
Mine was pretty buggy to till I cleaned out gear box and put the fresh grease in. Also as a special note. This is one of those machines you should not turn off during a game. You may get a fake error that might take a while to clear it. TZ, Popeye, MB and White Water.

#585 1 year ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

I do not remember any alignment. The motor just runs and the optos tell the machine where drac is. Does your drac always run at same consistant speed?
Mine was pretty buggy to till I cleaned out gear box and put the fresh grease in. Also as a special note. This is one of those machines you should not turn off during a game. You may get a fake error that might take a while to clear it. TZ, Popeye, MB and White Water.

Cleaning out the motor gearbox is what got me into this mess in the first place. I’ve swapped out opto board and motor driver board from other working machines and problem still exists. It has to be a problem with the motor itself

1 month later
#586 11 months ago

Hi MB-Club Members,

Just finished a restore of an MB and have played a few games on it (LOVE the game and can't get enough of it). I find it strange, however, that the ball can hit my scoop on the right hand side - ball against sharp metal. This can't be right in my opinion (see photos). It would appear that the scoop is too low (check out the distance between the top of the scoop and the plastic stack above). It's also a ball trap (obviously). Is this normal? Bought this scoop from Marco, so should be good. What are yours like?

Cheers!

Goz.

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#587 11 months ago

Scoop is too low. The bottom plastic that is above the scoop should be even with the top of the pop bumper cap.

#588 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Scoop is too low. The bottom plastic that is above the scoop should be even with the top of the pop bumper cap.

That's what I thought. But I can't adjust the height. Could this be a mistake with the construction of the scoop?

Thanks.

Goz

#589 11 months ago

Mine is a MBr. Scoop should be the same though. My right side cut out is larger.

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#590 11 months ago
Quoted from Gozzle:

Is this normal? Bought this scoop from Marco, so should be good. What are yours like?

That VUK does not have enough opening on the right side. My MB has the original VUK and it is much larger. I would take a Dremel and grind off some of that side so the ball actually hits the rubber pad instead of the VUK.

#591 11 months ago

Or buy the scoop assembly from Mantis, much better than the original

#592 11 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Or buy the scoop assembly from Mantis, much better than the original

Looks to me, as if the Mantis scoop would have the same problem:

mb_mantis_scoop (resized).JPG
#593 11 months ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

That VUK does not have enough opening on the right side. My MB has the original VUK and it is much larger. I would take a Dremel and grind off some of that side so the ball actually hits the rubber pad instead of the VUK.

I agree with that solution, but I find it so annoying that I buy a new (better) item from Marco Specialities for over 70$ and have to rework it, for it to work properly! I've contacted Marco, so I'll wait to see how they react before passing judgement.

Thanks for the feedback.

Goz

#594 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Mine is a MBr. Scoop should be the same though. My right side cut out is larger.

Thanks for the photos. Very interesting. Now I have a "cut" line....

#595 11 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Scoop is too low. The bottom plastic that is above the scoop should be even with the top of the pop bumper cap.

Was thinking about your input overnight: if the scoop were any higher, then the balls would come flying out of the scoop at some height and bounce on the PF, surely? I'm tending to believe that the height is right, it's just the design wasn't well thought out: The intention was probably to reinforce the scoop without taking the practicalities into account.

#596 11 months ago
Quoted from Gozzle:

Looks to me, as if the Mantis scoop would have the same problem:[quoted image]

My Mantis one has no issues that’s for sure.

#597 11 months ago
Quoted from Gozzle:

I agree with that solution, but I find it so annoying that I buy a new (better) item from Marco Specialities for over 70$ and have to rework it, for it to work properly! I've contacted Marco, so I'll wait to see how they react before passing judgement.
Thanks for the feedback.
Goz

Not sure why you’re coming to this conclusion. I have the Mantis scoop and it works perfectly.

#598 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not sure why you’re coming to this conclusion. I have the Mantis scoop and it works perfectly.

Rdoyle1978 - Does your Mantis not exhibit the same problem as per my two photos above?

Thanks,

Goz

#599 11 months ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

My Mantis one has no issues that’s for sure.

allsportdvd - how does your installed Mantis differ from mine (see photos)?

Thanks

Goz

#600 11 months ago

Nothing wrong with your scoop...... I think!

It's sat forward too much. Should go further back.

Compare yours and mine.

It should be as far back as it can go.

Is yours like that?

See mine.
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