(Topic ID: 220395)

Monopoly resetting - at this point, maybe the game just doesn't like me. :/


By Mistermoberg

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Atari_Daze
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

It's gone from bad to worse. Can't even play a full game on it. Had the driver board looked at during pintastic. The board itself is fine, I was told to fix the connection to the CPU, I believe it is CN2. How would I go about this?

Thanks guys,

Eric

#2 1 year ago

CN1 is a ribbon cable? Perhaps remove / reseat or even replace?

#3 1 year ago

Can you measure your 5 volts and tell us what the reading is? Usually resets=low five volts=replace bridge.

Edit: I know someone said it was fine, but it takes 20 seconds to check.

#4 1 year ago

cadillacmusic I'm not sure on how to check - how would I use my multimeter to find out?

#5 1 year ago

Well, the easiest way would probably be to measure at said connection, CN2. This is the plug that is in the bottom left part of the top board (cpu board). It's a chunky white plug, not a ribbon cable. It has 6 pins on it. The one all the way to the right is pin 1, which is what we want. The one next to it is pin 2, which is ground. So take your meter, make sure it's on the correct setting for 5v DC, and put the red lead so it's touching the back of that plug all the way to the right. You want to make sure it's touching the metal part, not just the plastic. Then take your black lead, and put it on the back part of the pin next to it. Same thing with the metal part. Look at the reading. Tell us what it says. If it says 0, you're doing it wrong. Don't let the two leads touch while you're measuring. It won't hurt anything permanently, but it may blow a fuse.

#6 1 year ago

cadillacmusic - thank you so much for that, never would have figured it out otherwise. I'm coming in at 5.04.

#7 1 year ago

I can't even get through one ball of gameplay at this point. Nothing specific triggers it.

#8 1 year ago

I'm honestly running out of ideas. I've read the theory of operation on both boards, I don't know what could be wrong.

My only guess at this point is that the CPU is failing?

I'm going to tag a few pinsiders with lots of pinball tech experience, in the hope that one of them can help. Thanks in advance gentlemen.

LTG grumpy zacaj

#9 1 year ago

5V issues are common reasons for resets, what happens to the LEDs on IO and sound board when it resets? Could be battery damage too, have you checked this article out?
http://www.pinballsupernova.com/images/Sega_Stern%20White%20Star%20Repair%20-%20PinWiki.pdf

#10 1 year ago

I've fixed lots of issues with resets on Whitestar boards. In almost every case it was either connector J16 on the power driver board (right above the voltage regulator/heatsink at the top of the board) and/or CN2 on the CPU sound board directly above J16.

Try reseating both of these connectors first. Pull up on them a little and push back down. If this makes the resets suddenly go away, then you know you have a connector issue at one end or the other. I typically remove the boards, replace the header pins and replace the connectors at both locations.

Although Whitestar boards have an easy way to adjust the +5VDC, I've never had to adjust one yet. It's always been a bad connector. My feelings are that since J16 and CN2 are directly above the voltage regulator heatsink, the heat from the VR is causing the issue. It makes sense because the plastic connector housings for those two connectors are always so brittle they fall apart in your hands.

#11 1 year ago

Okay - some updates.

I'm experiencing two different resets, both of which are outlined in the article that kkuoppamaki shared. One is with the lights blinking, with which LED204, blinks and L2 stays on - and one where the game goes to black and starts up again with only L2 on when the game goes down.

schudel5 - when I went to reseat them, they did exactly as you had said, fell apart in my hand.

However - something to note, when the game is operating, it's acting strangely. It hasn't operated enough in a while for me to notice anything until I stress tested it today. Scoring weird points, DMD occasionally lags or gets stuck.

Please also refer to this thread I made -- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-bad-i-ruin-my-game-please-help-stern-monopoly#post-4451244

It was resetting the same way before that thread.

My way of going about this at this point:

Reflow solder on boards.

Then if needed,

Replace connections mentioned by schudel5

Then if needed,

Put in new game rom.

Is that the right way to do this?

#12 1 year ago

Perhaps it's time to send it to a pro.
I can take care of it if you'd like.

Does the board have any battery leakage corrosion?
Adjacent to the battery holder are the ROM, RAM, and CPU along with very fine delicate traces.
They are all subject to corrosion damage.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#13 1 year ago

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I set the replay at 18.5 million.

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#14 1 year ago

Good news! I figured out what is causing the resets. The yellow stand up target near the right ramp. When it's hit, the game goes down.

#15 1 year ago

Get the game into test mode and see if it’s somehow making the slam tilt trigger. Could be a miswired switch causing a matrix issue (assuming this era game has a matrix, newer Stern do not)

Marc

#16 1 year ago

@mschonbrun - in the switch test it recognizes it as the 100K standup.

Upon looking for the slam tilt - there isn't one. The wiring for it has been cut out of the game.

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#17 1 year ago

Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

Just went to plug in game and grounding prong was loose. Fell right out with slight interaction.

I don't think it's safe to plug this game in without it being grounded, so this project is now on hold.

Any clue on where to purchase and how to install a replacement?

Thanks.

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#18 1 year ago

Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc.
there is a correct way to wire a plug.
Duplicate the current wiring.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#19 1 year ago

I would cover those wires with electrical tape or a wire nut to make sure you don’t get a short down the road.

#20 1 year ago

@mschonbrun - good call, consider it done.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Mistermoberg:

Grrrrrrrrrrrr.
Just went to plug in game and grounding prong was loose. Fell right out with slight interaction.
I don't think it's safe to plug this game in without it being grounded, so this project is now on hold.
Any clue on where to purchase and how to install a replacement?
Thanks.

How the flying heck are you working on a pinball machine and unable to wire a plug. I would YouTube and Google search such a simple problem before posting here.

What's next, you going to claim the game is cursed?

#22 1 year ago

the96stang - posted it to let people know the project is on hold and can't run diagnostics until I get to the hardware store.

chrishibler was very helpful with his simple statement. If I need board work on this game or any other, he is first in line for my business.

I am new at this - I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything special or proprietary I needed.

These threads also act as project diaries for me, and I attempt to add a sense of humor to them as well.

#23 1 year ago

There is a chip right under the batteries I would reseat it as well caused odd behavior in my game (actually found battery acid under it) but others have fixed just by getting it tighter. My symptoms would be a few targets would reset the game similar to your Issue

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from coz6:

There is a chip right under the batteries I would reseat it as well caused odd behavior in my game (actually found battery acid under it) but others have fixed just by getting it tighter. My symptoms would be a few targets would reset the game similar to your Issue

This, and I've had a Monopoly reset on me because I didn't have good volts at the outlet. Stern needs 105v or above to run smooth, which can also be compromised while running an AC or fridge on the same circuit.

#25 1 year ago

To clarify, all you need is some kind cord that has the correct three prong end, and is long enough. We use 12' cords but anything that will reach the outlet is fine. You can get them at a hardware store, or if you can't get to one for some reason you can order them online. You should be able to find one that's just the one end, with the wires sticking out the other. If you can't, buy a normal cord, and just snip off the end that isn't the three prong plug, and use a set of wire strippers or cutters to remove the outside plastic covering for the end 4 inches or so. Assuming you buy it new in the USA, there should be three wires inside, one white, one black, one green. All you have to do is solder the ends just like they are inside the machine. The easiest way to do it is to cut the existing power wire inside the machine about 4 inches from your EMF filter. Pull out the old cord from the back, and thread the new one in. Then one by one, desolder the old wires and resolder the new ones on.

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