(Topic ID: 78379)

Monopoly Club!! - Own it All!!!

By SilverUnicorn

4 years ago

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  • 571 posts
  • 103 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by PinDeLaPin
  • Topic is favorited by 35 Pinsiders


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#293 1 year ago

Hey Guys, i'm new to the Monopoly club, just got my machine today. I will post some pics soon but just gotta sort an issue at the moment and as this is my first Stern i was hoping someone in the club will have an idea where to start. The machine was transported on it's butt as they should be and after getting it upright on to it's legs i came across a few issues >>> The machine booted ok but the display was inoperative, soon discovered it had a loose plug to the display and solved that. Turn the machine back on after sorting the display and now it won't boot, display comes on and some of the GI but it's obviously not booting properly. I have checked fuses and re-seated all the plugs to the sound/cpu board, and did the usual chip check to see if any weren't seated properly. I'm not a noob to pins in general just to modern Sterns so i still need to get used to the differences in the diagnostic menu, etc.
Any ideas as to what may be the cause? considering it booted first up and then wouldn't after i got the display plug sorted, i wouldn't think it's anything major, just thinking it's due to my lack of knowledge with this system.

#295 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Does anything come up on the display at all? Maybe te display plug is backwards?

Yeah got it sorted Turned out that the main power plug J17 to the driver board had a loose connection. On hindsight the CPU was actually booting cause i could access the diagnostics menu, just there was no power to coils, play field lights, etc.
It will take me a little while to get accustomed to Sterns differences in boards, etc to what i've been used to.
My machine isn't as nice as some of you guys going by what i've seen in this thread but it should come up alright with some TLC and a few new parts i've ordered

2 weeks later
#296 1 year ago

My machine seems to be all ok now except i noticed that the up/down post isn't working, checked in test mode but nope, all the other coils fire in test just not this one. I swapped over the dice eject coil with the up/down post coil to see if the coil was bad and still not working (the dice eject coil works). I can only assume it's in the wiring somewhere. Is there a setting for the post that makes it inactive that i have missed? If not, any ideas guys?
Just checked and spotted that both of those coils share the same Brown wire position for the 20V @ J7- Pin 1 so that rules out the brown wire.

3 weeks later
#297 1 year ago

Still can't get the up/down post to work, here's what i've done so far> I swapped the coil with the dice eject coil, both 20V and both run off the same 20V connection on the board @ J7-P1, upon doing this the suspect coil works and the coil eject one doesn't so i know that the coil itself is ok. After swapping the coils back i then checked the brown 20V wire with a DMM on both coils and both read 21.7V so the inoperative coil is getting power and both have continuity on the earth wire to the cabinet ground braid. The ground wire for the up/down post goes to pin 8 on J6 and the Dice eject goes to pin 4 on J6. I have checked over the J6 plug and all seems ok and i even re-flowed the solder to pin 8 just in case it had a dry/cracked solder joint. I have also tested the TIP that relates to that coil and it has the same readings as the one for the dice eject coil so it seems ok also. I'm not sure where to go from here, what else could be the issue? Something on the board i'm missing? I don't think there is a setting to turn the up/down post off in the menu. Any ideas guys?

#299 1 year ago

It's got me stumped too The post moves quiet freely, if anything i would think the spring seems a bit too loose but certainly no binding on the playfield. I also checked continuity for the ground wire between the connection from the coil and to pin 8 on J6 and it's ok (also checked with the dice eject coil to pin 4 on J6). I noticed in the diagnostics menu there is provision for 3 extra up/down posts also, i was hoping that just maybe the wiring on my machine had been mixed up by a previous owner but none of those 3 do anything in coil test run mode. The TIP listed for that coil is Q32 which tested ok but i'm not sure about the resistor that's part of that circuit, definitely no visual signs of being toasted.

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#300 1 year ago

I still have no idea what's going on with the up/down post, haven't tracked down a solution yet
In the meantime i am stripping down the playfield so i can give it a well needed clean and polish, change all the old rubbers over to Titans and also replace the broken plastics. Also putting on some new pop bumper skirts and trying to polish up any metal parts (not the ball guides though at this time) Along with that i have added a dice shooter rod and i'm designing a backboard decal. I have 2 work in progress pics so far, any thoughts guys on which moneybags image you like the best?

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#302 1 year ago
Quoted from ZeldaOoT:

My post looks just like yours so I'm stumped on that, but I like the top decal!

Yeah i was leaning towards that one myself I'd like to add a bit more to it, perhaps an "Own it all" along the top and maybe some small icons like the community chest, go to jail and free parking. I don't want to get it too busy but i think it just needs a little something else to break up the money. I'm keeping in mind that most of the bottom half isn't really seen and of course there are slots for the ramps also.

#304 1 year ago

Final draft for the backboard decal. I'm pretty happy with it overall and the center portion with "Own it all" should sit nicely above the ramp slots and the center hole will be in between the writing. Proof will be in the printing and application though
Hopefully get this printed in the next week or so and i'm also planning to do some target decals also in the near future.

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#305 1 year ago

First draft for some target decals, Moneybags image is for the 100k target on the right, cop image for the 2 mid targets and of course the free parking image for the target top left on the ramp. These need to be sized a little more and will have the corners rounded off before being printed. They look blurry only cause of the up scaling in the post, click on them it will show the correct size and clarity. I'm pretty happy with these, think they will do nicely

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#307 1 year ago
Quoted from ZeldaOoT:

This one is probably the most difficult one to choose in my opinion. Your image makes sense for when modes aren't activated, but when you're in the mode where you're trying not to go to jail and you hit the cop drop target and this target, it seems strange you'd be hitting the monopoly man. Thoughts?

I do agree with that yeah but i was trying to find a generic image for that target considering the amount of inserts it covers >> 100K, Lite Spinner, Power Up, Water Bonus X and Advance To Go. I did consider using the Advance to go board square but discounted using a plain 100k sign. It is a hard one to decide on for sure, what would you go with for this target?

#309 1 year ago

A couple more possible options for that top right target?

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2 weeks later
#312 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Just picked this up. Glad that the search is finally over. I wanted to ask if anyone may have a lead on parts that I need. I am looking for both ramps, and also need the two small red plastics shown below. I don't want to buy a full set of plastics just to obtain these two super small pieces.

On another subject is there a way to adjust volume separately for music and sound effects? I have my volume down to 4 which is fine for the music, but the sound that the game makes when you launch the ball is near intolerable because it's so loud. Why is this?

Right ramp is still available from Marco's (not the complete assembly though, just ramp flaps), i just changed over mine. Link >>>
Left ramp is unavailable and the only one i could track down had some damage and they wanted $145 US for it
I just changed over my plastics but unfortunately my original small red one is busted like yours and the other one was missing entirely... i umm think i bought the last complete set from Marco's, showed out of stock straight after. As far as i know the background music volume is set in the menu and the overall volume is set by the portal buttons inside the coin door, far left one to initiate.

2 weeks later
#320 1 year ago

It's taken some time to get the machine shopped out due to other projects but it's finally done. I wish my playfield didn't have as much insert wear but the machine has been well used before so it's understandable. Included in the jobs were >> New plastic set, new right ramp, set of Titan rubbers, repaired and repainted bank cover, Cliffy chance and shooter lane protectors, self designed target and backboard decals (backboard center hole was bogged up, seems to serve no purpose), black and bronze shooter dice (LOVE the idea, not sure who came up with it, but TOPS), chrome backbox trim and new pop bumper skirts and tops. I changed some of the LED's that were already on the machine and polished up metal parts where possible (the train ramp was really bad when i got the machine), and made another plastic cover for the train ramp scoop. Discovered a few dodgy fixes from previous owner/s along the way also, like a 2 inch rubber going around both cam wheels for the waterworks flipper and a couple of support posts that shouldn't be there. Also the entrance switch for the left ramp had been screwed to the backboard cause the plastic on the ramp had been busted away where it mounts. I put a plastic patch on that, remounted and it's functional (not super pretty, but works). All up i'm quite happy with the results. Ahh almost forgot, i also carefully sanded around the waterworks eject hole as there was a noticeable groove that the ball sat/got stuck in, after a bit of polish the ball hardly ever get's stuck now.

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1 week later
#321 1 year ago

It's been suggested to me that my inoperative up/down post is due to code. My machine is running 3.01 Display and 3.03 CPU, can someone please confirm they are running the same code and their post works fine? On that note, is the post supposed to come up when you first shoot the ball out? any other times? I still suspect i have a board issue but i want to make sure about the code first. I have already ruled out the coil, the TIP and the wiring to the coil as the culprit, using a dirty test by grounding the TIP tab the coil fires, just not in test or in normal play (i think the problem lies with the ground side of the wiring not the 20V line) Thanks in advance

#323 1 year ago
Quoted from ZeldaOoT:

I just looked and my code is 3.01 on both. Wonder what is different in there. The post doesn’t come up when you first plunge, you can shoot all the way around. It does come up when you shoot around the right orbit during gameplay. Hope that helps.

Edit- I just read through the monopoly code documents on sterns website and there is no reference to that coil post in any of the versions. Looks like a dead end there imo.

Cheers I was doubtful that it would be a code issue as something like the post moving you would presume would be a basic part of the game play, not a bug fix later on. Mine definitely doesn't come up when you shoot the right orbit during the game though. On another forum it was suggested to me that it could be the pre-driver or chip driver that's linked to the ground side of the coil, look's like i'll need to get it checked out. Thanks mate, appreciated!

#326 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Nice machine!! Where did you get the that rear panel art and the target decals?

Thanks back board decal and target decals were my own design and i then had them printed up at the local sign writers.

Quoted from sohchx:

Is anyone else having an issue with the rubber post sleeve to the right of the bank door slipping up the post with almost every hit from the ball? It's first time I have ever seen this happen on any machine. I guess I will have to roughen up the post for the rubber to grab it.

I haven't had any worries with mine so far, maybe the titan rubbers are a bit stickier, not sure. My post is threaded so if yours is the same you could use a small washer and a pan head screw to hold it down, that should stop the rubber moving up.

#328 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

My machine does have titans on it. My post is not threaded and is completely solid

Hmm Ok, my post is most likely not original then, the machine was an Italian import and those guys just love to improvise
The only thing i can think of is a little bit of super glue perhaps, that will stop the rubber moving up.

4 months later
#333 10 months ago

Anyone had an issue with the bank opto's not lining up? I realized that some of the opto's weren't working so did the obligatory clean, detached the top board (transmitter's) and held it in place manually during switch test and found that 1,3 and 4 worked. When it was attached as per normal only 3 registered so i'm not sure if the mounting is bent or what?

#335 10 months ago

Can someone please take a photo from directly above their bank cover assembly, i'm just trying to work out if the metal framework on mine is bent somewhat which in turn is putting the opto's out of alignment. Also, for anyone who can do this could you please make sure that all 4 of your opto's work in switch test mode! I'm thinking either i have an alignment problem or some of the opto's are bad. Thanks in advance guys

1 month later
#340 9 months ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I was looking for a decal/sticker that goes on the back panel, but I can't seem to find it for sale. So, before I make my own, I thought I'd check here to see if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction. I thought they were made by Pingraffix, but I don't see it on there site.

Here is a link to someone that has it installed (2nd & 3rd pic):


I have one for sale + target decals included. Photo's are at the start of this page

#351 8 months ago

I finally got a resolution with the inoperative up/down post. It turned out to be a faulty pre-driver that is for that coil on the driver board. The post is now working perfectly and also found it actually does come up when the ball is first plunged. It seems about the only time it doesn't come up is when the right orbit light is lit, mainly cause to complete the x2, x3 etc the ball needs to complete the loop around through the left orbit to register. Also at certain times on some modes it also doesn't pop up. So happy to have it working as it should

1 month later
#358 7 months ago
Quoted from vaevictis:

Hello all-have a line on a project Monopoly. Was damaged while in storage, no photos as of yet. At minimum, needs new PF glass, not sure of PF condition or the ramps and plastics. How obtainable/unobtainium are parts? Saw some ads in the market place. Trying to gauge the viability of this project. In my quick scanning of some threads, it seems that the ramps are not currently in production/easily available? No experience with these "newer"/modern Sterns, besides playing on location. Insight welcome.

You can still buy NOS playfields, full plastic set is available over here in Oz http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28_207_59&products_id=2384
Left ramp is unavailable for sure although the right ramp is still to be had at Marco's. Most of the general playfield parts are still available at Marco's, some full assemblies aren't, train ramp, speed bump, etc BUT parts of these assemblies are. If the LED sign is busted you can still get the LED block itself but not the complete unit. Most of the underneath PF parts are still available, flipper mech kit's, general pieces etc, the light boards i haven't spotted anywhere though.

Edit : Took out the "Sewer assembly" reference sorry about that, was just working on my Whodunnt machine when i replied to this heheheheh

2 months later
#376 5 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey guys I just joined the club a couple days ago. My machine has a great playfield only problem is that its missing the entire motorized flipper assembly, only thing left is the power lead that connects to it. Does anybody have 1 of these part number 500-6486-00-75 that they would be willing to sell? if so please pm me. Thanks, Bill

Hopefully someone out there will have a 2nd hand one, perhaps create a wanted add? If no luck with that the assembly is still available at Marco's brand new, but pricey!

#379 5 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Thanks mancave I was hoping to finf a used one cause that one marco sells is almost $200 and I really didn't want to spend that much.

Yeah i getcha, it's definitely pricey, and it's not even really a major part in the scheme of things BUT without that mech the ball will just stay in the saucer hole til you take the glass off You can buy the motor/gearbox separately, and making your own mounting bracket and adding plugs/wiring wouldn't be too hard either but of course there are other parts also. Have a crack at a wanted add first and see how you go, surely there is someone out there that has the assembly. If i find one i will let you know cause we can't have a fellow Monopoly owner without a complete machine...this will not do

4 weeks later
#407 4 months ago

Maybe i have a weird machine but usually the flipper will reverse direction if a ball gets stuck for too long. I've only had to take the glass off to free a trapped ball perhaps 3 or 4 times. Mine also varies speed sometimes too although it doesn't seem to be specific to any point in the game, perhaps i'm not paying enough attention to it to notice.

#412 4 months ago

Just checked...and was forced to play some games even if it is 1.40am. Mine is running 3.01. It was originally running 3.03 but i was having up/down post issues as previously mentioned in earlier posts. When i had my main board repaired the up/down post was still not working so a mate kindly swapped me his driver board for the one out of his Simpsons machine and at the same time burned me the 3.01 code which fixed my problem.

#419 4 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey guys this guy is overseas but I contacted him and he offers a full set of decals for Monopoly for $200 shipped his email is pinballdecalseu@gmail.com and all you have to do is shoot him an email and tell him what you are interested in. He has an online store on ebay and is a reputable seller as far as his feedback goes. Seller information: future2015mc9 (279 ) 100% Positive feedback. Just thought I would pass along his information as I have looked high and low for replacement cab decals and found none. Hope this helps!

Definitely interested in cab decals for this machine, gotta be better than the crappy colour matching job the previous owner/s did. I did a seller search and at the moment he only has 3 machine cab decals for sale, when i spotted where from (Croatia) it got me wondering if it's the guy that was printing for Retro Refurbs?
It could be just coincidence but apparently all RR's cab decals were getting printed in Croatia.....interesting

#421 4 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Anyway as I stated above just wanted to pass along the chance to grab some decals as they seem to be nonexistent.

Have you ordered a set for yourself? At the moment i can't spare the cash on a set but definitely keen to find out what the quality is like.

#426 4 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Broke 1 plastic today playing a game. By any chance does a yone have an extra pice they would sell? Its right below the right ramp and the mini flipper.

Yeah i've got a nice 2nd hand spare. It's almost completely flat (very slight bend that would be fine once attached), got a couple of spots on the underneath but they aren't holes in the artwork though, just marks of some kind. I could post it over to you in an envelope sandwiched between 2 bits of thin cardboard fairly cheaply (might take a few weeks to arrive though). What do you reckon it's worth?

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#434 4 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Found these templates online for the free parking ramp, the top of the left and right ramp and just to left of the chance trough. Will be getting these cut out and hopefully installed later on today.

Thanks for posting this, reminded me that i still had the templates i printed out floating around somewhere When i did find them and went to cut them out i realised i had printed them at the wrong ratio, think it had "Auto zoom" selected on the print file instead of "Actual size" I did have to trim a little extra off the small one that attaches to the blue plastic (above the green line in pic). There was no way i was going to be able to attach the ramp otherwise, would have been sitting up on that top left edge. When you have a look at the photo of that particular plastic on his site it appears to be a different shape to the template so i'm just not sure if he's altered it but not changed the template. Even when the plastic was rotated around away from the ramp (so the right hand edge of the plastic is touching the pop bumper) there still wasn't enough clearance.

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#437 4 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey Paul, so after altering it did you end up getting it to fit or no?

Hi Mate, yeah i did but i'm not entirely convinced it will do what i think it's supposed to do
If you bend the tab the other way the angle that the plastic sits at will basically be the same just that the ends will be swapped over, and as you can see from the pic it is rotated as far to the right as possible. I presume it was made to stop balls getting stuck between the pop bumper and the back of the sign and or the ramp itself. As it is it will help to deflect a ball but there is still enough gap for the ball to get between the guard and the lower LED holder on the sign and allow a ball to snuggle next to the ramp (bit hard to see from the pic i know). The guard if anything needs to be more square on to the gap or virtually flush with the edge of the blue plastic to fully prevent a ball getting in behind. To be honest i've never had a ball get stuck there....yet

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#439 4 months ago

I've got some spare clear acrylic left over, might have a crack at designing something that will block that gap a bit more...... watch this space

#446 4 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

I installed on of the lexan sheets to protect the free parking. It became allot harder to get a ball up that ramp and hit the free parking. Has anyone had this? I have considered somehow raising the right side of the plastic a little bit bc the ball bumps the cover right as it goes from first part the ramp onto the straight part that leads to free parking

I did have a few issues with that too when i first installed the guard but then i screwed it down with the ramp screw. In the template there was no hole for that area so i'm not sure if the guard was supposed to sit on top of the screw originally. When screwed down it lifts the right hand edge up, seems to have helped a lot.

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#450 4 months ago

So here's my prototype solution for that small lower guard. It will block a ball going in behind the sign completely and if a ball goes onto the pop bumper it will just roll straight back onto the playfield. I might make it taller so a ball can't fly up and drop into the gap between the top LED bracket of the sign and the prototype guard. Although there isn't enough space for a ball to drop into that gap there is a slight possibility of a ball sitting there. There is a gap on the ramp side of the upper LED bracket but upon testing a ball will roll straight back onto the playfield below the chance scoop (mind you it would be a serious air ball to jump into that gap). Thoughts? Suggestions?

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#452 3 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Your prototype fix looks pretty good to me Psul have you been able to put some games under your belt and put it to the test yet?

Thanks Bill, it's functional at least could sure be a bit prettier. I've played about 25 games with it now and all's well so far, mind you the ball has only gone close once and it actually bounced up onto the pop bumper close to the ramp and then rolled back onto the playfield along that part of the guide. It could be made a bit taller i think and i would use some ramp style rivets for the next time, they look a bit cleaner than regular rivets. I've got some more acrylic on order so i plan to tinker a little bit more with it

1 week later
#456 3 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

WOW, just played a game, this happened on the centre ramp, blew the switch gate right off the ramp. Don’t know what it hit but caught funny and it’s done for.

Any ideas on a repair??

Couple of options with that.
1). It looks like you still have the piece of the ramp intact attached to the bracket. I would use a glue like 24 hour Araldite epoxy to glue the piece back in but also add a longer 2mm strip of acrylic underneath the busted piece to bolster it (with bracket holes pre drilled and lined up with the existing holes) It won't look fantastically pretty but it will be stronger and functional.
2). I've seen the switch bracket attached to the back board before using an altered self made bracket which again is functional but not ideal.
3). Or like you mentioned, attach the bracket further back along the ramp which shouldn't effect game play at all although you will still have the gaping hole in the side of the ramp.
When i got my machine it had a shoddy combo of 1) and 2) but most of the chunk busted off was missing. The bracket was still attached to the ramp by 1 screw but also screwed to the backboard. I fashioned a piece of acrylic to fit the gap missing in the ramp (but first squared the busted edges off) and then glued the section in + an extra piece underneath to help strengthen the area. It worked absolutely fine up until i just recently swapped over to a decent 2nd hand left ramp i bought. PM me about a backboard decal if you like, i have spares of the type i made up for my machine

Ohh and for the backglass glare i use one of those bent plastics you can buy from Pinball Life, they work a treat.

#468 3 months ago

Finished version of the lower ball guard. I'm fairly happy with how this turned out even though it's not much different to the first version. Only main change is that i made the guard higher close to the back of the sign which will prevent a ball getting stuck in between the top globe/led holder of the sign and the guard itself. It looks like a fair gap still going off the pics but there isn't enough space for the ball to wedge there. In the worst case of jump balls the ball may land on the wiring for that top globe/led but it will roll off to the back towards the ramp and then back onto the play field. The guard does sit very snug to the top of the pop bumper cap but that won't be an issue. Needed to jiggle the sign a bit when screwing the ramp back down, (only need to remove the bottom 2 screws and the upper left) just to get the guard to settle in front of it but pretty easy to mount otherwise

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#470 3 months ago

Cheers Bill. I don't have the program on my desktop to create a template like the one's for the original guards. I've had a go at measuring the angles, etc and at least the lengths are correct for each edge so you can hopefully use this as a rough guide. If anyone is good at creating a template for an EPS file then you are welcome to use these calculations and i'd be happy to help out with any further clarifications if needed (most likely )
I attached the guard using a length of 1.6mm thick stainless steel strip which is 20mm wide and approx 75mm long, the last 25mm is bent downwards at approx 45-50 degrees, the angle can be varied to suit really but that's a general guide. The exact positions of the 2 holes for the end of the stainless bracket in the vertical axis aren't critical, as long as they are within that 25mm bend it's all good but they will need to be the distance from the left hand side as indicated (47mm). Please note that i also rounded off the edges of the plastic so there was no pointy edges to break bits off from, doesn't show that in the outline. The stainless bracket has one hole drilled at the other end which is attached to the top of the star post using the existing large screw and nut already there. I just added a washer either side of the bracket so it sits better on top of the plastic star post. I've probably missed something in this so let me know if i have or confused the issue further with my explanations
P.S, yeah sorry about the measurements, i'd just get all confused trying to convert to non metric.

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#475 3 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Nice work Paul and thanks for the thorough walkthrough and explanation of your work

No worries at all. I did forget to mention that i used a heat gun to bend the plastic back at about 45 Degrees. Refer to the pic but it's just after the right hand side of the 56mm lower edge that leads into the 49mm edge. This part is necessary cause it stops a ball getting wedged OR getting behind the guard if a ball goes onto the lower pop bumper.

#478 3 months ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

shopping a friends monopoly. bottom outlane plastics are cracked. avail anywhere?

You can still buy the complete plastic set at a few places (Marco's and RTBB over here in Aus) I don't think there is anywhere that sells separate plastics apart from the usual slingshot plastics. I might have 2 spare lane guide plastics for this machine as i changed my complete set when i bought it, no idea what the condition is though, will have to look for them.

#491 3 months ago

The one on mine is 2 inch, from Fleabay but that was over a year ago.

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#498 3 months ago
Quoted from Leosac:

Any ideas of where to look next?

Check the power cable connector (the one with a black and red wire) When i first got my machine i had the same issues and it was a connection problem with that plug.

#501 3 months ago
Quoted from Leosac:

Reseated but no luck. Thanks anyway for the suggestion

If the plug feels a little loose which was like my one, try bending the pins slightly outward and then reseat.

4 weeks later
#522 69 days ago
Quoted from Leosac:

My post never seems to be in the up position.

Have you tested the post in the solenoid test menu? If it doesn't operate in test then that's a similar issue to what i had (board problem)

#524 63 days ago


#525 63 days ago

Going to have to open the hood on my machine tomorrow, turned it on for a game tonight and got flipper issues with the upper. I haven't played the machine for a few weeks as i've been unashamedly flogging my Maiden pinny lately. The upper flipper is staying up when you start a game and drops when the power is turned off so it's most definitely an electrical problem. The only weird thing is, in solenoid test mode it activates as per normal which i wouldn't expect to happen so i'm hoping it's not a board issue with a TIP, maybe the switch shorting??

2 weeks later
#535 48 days ago
Quoted from Thegeekyhusband:

Hey guys,

I have a new plastic to replace this broken and me, but the bulb socket is machine locked to the plastic. What should I be using to get this thing off?

Also, is there a way to reattach it easily?

Easiest way is to use a drill bit a bit bigger than the back of the rivet itself NOT the the star washer that is captured. Obviously you need to be somewhat careful doing this but at least in this case, damage to the plastic by going "off course" with the drill isn't a worry, just your fingers You don't need to drill out the rivet, just aiming to get rid of the folded edge so just take it slowly. To re-attach the bulb holder to the new plastic just use a normal rivet gun with rivet size to match the hole, unless of course you have the means to use the original style rollover rivets (either with a punch and die set or a rivet press with fittings) Only main difference is that regular rivets have the hole once attached so don't look quite as neat. No biggie

#541 48 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey Paul what ever happened with your protector you were making by the railway ramp? Did you ever finally get it dialed in all the way?

I did get it finalised Bill and i'm pretty happy with it, certainly no stuck balls since making the small changes i documented in previous posts. I will have some extras of these to sell eventually but due to a stuff up (mine) the sizing when they were cut out was about 20mm too big all round. For some reason when i converted the file to an EPS file for the plastics guys the sizing got screwed up. Currently waiting on the new batch and then i just need to make some metal brackets to rivet on. The way it's going at the moment it's probably not going to be until after Christmas, getting crazy busy at work as you can imagine.

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