My question to you is this: Do you have the mini flipper already, and do you have the drive(n) wheel that attaches to it? That's the really tough part to find; I've been looking for a replacement for mine for four years. I finally fashioned one out of oak, of all things, and it's been working perfectly.

Good luck with your search!

That's actually normal operation; no problem there.

Sounds like you have everything solved; enjoy!!

Good job with these! I added these to my Monopoly several years ago, and they are perhaps the single best thing you can add to it. Certainly prevents balls from flying off the ramps.

I'm certain I have the link for these somewhere, but if you have it handy, you might wish to post it for others.

Regarding the speed/direction of the mini flipper, I had a similar problem years ago. Perhaps this might help:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/monopoly-mini-flipper-spins-like-crazy

I seem to recall also that the single direction (counter-clockwise) of the mini flipper was an update to the code, as has been previously mentioned. I'm running 3.01, and while I have occasional catches of the ball, the flipper will change direction after a few seconds, releasing it.

BTW, the speed of the mini flipper will increase as the water works multiplier increases, thus making the skill shot and subsequent attempts at water works more difficult.

Yes, it's pretty much straight forward. The ROMs will be labelled with the correct socket locations. If you don't have a chip puller, a small flat screwdriver will suffice. Just pry them up a little at a time from both ends, and try to be careful not to bend the legs. Then just gently push the new ones in, again making sure not to bend the legs. Also, make sure all of the legs are seated properly (I had a bent one once that didn't seat; drove me nuts until I found it!).

If you are planning on acquiring more pins in the future, you might want to invest in a chip burner for yourself. They're not that terribly expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01212KD74/

...as does Lowes and Home Depot. Just about any home improvement store should have it.

I have exactly the same problem; a set screw that can't be removed. I still have the wheel, but I got so frustrated with trying to get it out that I wound up fashioning my own driven wheel out of oak, believe it or not. It's been in my Monopoly for 4 1/2 years now, and it works fine, but ideally I'd still like to get that darned screw out and put the original wheel back in.

If you manage to get yours out, I'd be very grateful to know how you did it.

This was my intention, but it's easier said than done, I'm afraid. I believe the set screw is stainless steel. I tried to drill it out myself, to no avail. I also took it to a machine shop where they had a drill press; they couldn't drill it out either.

When I have some time, I'd like to go back to this and try again, but my wooden replacement is still working well, so there's no pressing need, thankfully.

Yep, sounds like 3.2 to me. You're going to need to get 3.03.

Yes, that is correct. On the Monopoly that I previously owned, the flipper went in both directions. It would spin one way for a period of time, and then change direction. If you look under the playfield, you will notice that the wheel that the flipper is connected to has 3 plastics attached to it, with a small protrusion on one edge. As the wheel is spinning, that bump would make contact with a switch, which I guess that after a series of switch throws were noted, the wheel would change direction. I heard that a later code update had the wheel only going in the counterclockwise direction, because sometimes the ball would get caught between the flipper and the post when spinning clockwise. I had that happen every so often, but when the flipper changed direction, it would be freed.

Oh yeah, you definitely need the ramp mods here; otherwise, the ball will just keep flying off. A design flaw, to be sure.

You can make your own using Lexan. Here is the link for the patterns:
http://pinballzone.com/tech/monopolyflap.php

(PS: WARNING!! DON'T click the link for the supposed "ready made" ones, marked "King of Payne". It takes you somewhere you might not wish to be. Consider yourself warned!!)

I used to have this exact same issue when I owned a Monopoly. Unfortunately, I never did solve this problem (I have since sold my machine).

I hope someone else has some ideas about this and you are able to get it going.

I had this exact same problem when I owned this pin. I found that the problem is with the switch being out of alignment with the rotating wheel beneath the playfield. There are three plastic pieces attached to the wheel that have a protrusion on them that are supposed to throw the switch as the wheel rotates. There is a test for this in the Portals that you can check to see if this is working properly. If the switch is not thrown within a particular time period, the wheel will just start spinning at a really high rate of speed. In that case, you can adjust the switch to make sure it registers each time the bump hits it.

Hope this helps.

Yep, I did the exact same thing when I owned a Monopoly. It worked great for the entire time I owned it (almost 6 years!).

This is correct. I had the humming on my Monopoly. When I changed the resistors per the service bulletin, it calmed down considerably.

Apparently, this only became an issue when people started putting machines in the home environment. Usually pins on location were in noisy places already, so who would have noticed?

Yep, I would agree that it wouldn't hurt to ask.

I did my own board work as well. Not too hard to do, but you have to know what you are doing. But when I get into something that I can't handle, I send it off to Chris Hibler (he's here on Pinside). He does great work; very professional and reasonably priced.

Yes, the resistors that are listed in the manual would be correct ones from the factory; subsequently, it has that loud hum during attract mode. If you go back and read the service bulletin, the fix was suggested when bringing the game into the home market:


Undesirable hum and some audible distortion
when the volume is set below Level 4 in the
Volume Menu (accessed by pressing the "Red" Button first of the Service Switch Set on the
Coin Door; Level Range is 0 - 31).

Due to the large number of games being sold in the "Home Market," it was brought to our attention that at very low volume
settings, there is an undesirable hum in the audio. To eliminate the hum (at very low volume), we are suggesting two (2) Resistor changes which will reduce the gain of the amplifier, however, will ensure the proper balance between the upper and lower channels are intact.
Note 1: This will reduce the overall loudness of the game; you will need to set the Volume Level higher to achieve the same level you had before.
Note 2: This update on the CPU/Sound Board (SPI Part Number: 520-5136-16) is backwards compatible, though you may have to TURN UP or DOWN the factory default volume setting depending on the game.

Have a qualified technician change R110 to a 33K
1/4 Watt Resistor and change R106 to a 10K
1/4 Watt Resistor

Hope this clarifies things.