If the plug feels a little loose which was like my one, try bending the pins slightly outward and then reseat.

It should be 19"x5.627" That should be about 1/8" larger than the back board for a little fudge factor. I believe it was about $9 to have it printed.

Did you check the other end of that cable?

I just picked up a few from AliExpress - 25mm.
$8 for 4 with faster shipping included. Figure I have screw up factor built in with buyin 4! Lol

Do you have another dmd machine that you could swap displays with? Also you could reach out to a local pinsider and ask if they would mind testing on one of their machines.

Sohchx, if that’s an offer, I may take you up on it!

Been having trouble with the display. Reseated everything, cleaned pins, etc.

I finally got it lit, although appears a little less vibrant than it should be.

The new problem is that the animation freezes mid game. The game play, call outs work but the DMD, although lit, is frozen. Elbow are two pics from two different games. The freeze happened in the middle of ball two and remained frozen on these screens until I powered off and atarted over.

When I turn the game off then on, the DMD resets and starts a game unfrozen.

Where do I start?

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I’m in the club! Picked up a nice HUO! ColorDMD on order.

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I had a question about the mini-flipper motor/driver. The manual shows adding a single black rubber ring to the drive wheel. I added a silicon rubber ring to the drive wheel and it seems to work most of the time, but sometimes is unable to get the ball out of the waterworks hole. I looked at the drive wheel and it appears that it doesn't have enough grip/traction in order to get the ball out and is "slipping" with too little friction.

I have another machine that I'm about to restore and it has, in addition to the rubber on the drive wheel, some sort of rubber on the other wheel that drives the flipper shaft. I assume it's a flipper rubber, but it's rotting away, so I'm not 100% sure.

Below are some pics, but I was wondering if others are adding some sort of rubber to the "flipper wheel" or if there is some way to increase the friction so it doesn't slip??

Here is the one I just rebuilt:
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Here is the one I haven't touched yet, with the extra rubber:
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I just put that whole mini flipper assembly in my machine a couple months ago and it only has the 1 rubber ring on the drive wheel and I have had no problems with it. I would suggest trying to put a thicker ring on your drive wheel. Horrible freight sells a little kit that has a bunch of different sizes for like $6 i'm thinking this may solve your problem. Hopefully that is!

Congrats. Very underrated game. Easy to follow rules and great theme integration. And it’s just plain fun.

I'll give that a shot! Thanks!

Well any luck Lamprey?

Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to mess with that yet. I ordered some different parts to try out that should be here by this weekend. If those work, great. If not, then I'll pop over to Harbor Freight and get an O-ring kit.

The larger wheel (connected to the flipper shaft) shouldn't need any rubber ring or spacer on it at all. It should be clean and non slick - use a degreaser or cleaner on it.

The smaller wheel (connected to the motor/gearbox) uses a standard 1" ID black rubber ring (Stern p/n 545-5348-05).

I've found that some rubber rings are a bit too small for the 'motor drive wheel'<->'flipper drive wheel' gap and can slip too much. It should slip when the flipper shaft is held, as it acts like a clutch - the motor shouldn't stall. Try a couple different brands of rubber if what you have is too small. I would bet the silicone rings are way too small.

Another thing to check is the flipper bushing attached to the mounting plate. If its worn, the flipper drive wheel (attached to the flipper) can flex at a slight angle with respect to the motor drive wheel, and there will be too much of a gap between the two. The bushings are standard flipper bushings (Stern 545-5594-00) so they are a cheap item to replace.

Nice write up. Very concise and thorough explanation.

Finally got my lexan! Printed the paper, taped it to the sheet and cut out the protector with scissors. Had to modify the length of the top left side where it screws down because of the gate/switch being blown off last month by a ball going to high. Installed the new protector I made quite easily and I crushed many balls up the bank ramp and it was smoooth as butter!! Excited as we haven’t played the pin since he first week we got it. Been parked for a month.

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Is 3.01 the latest revision?

When plunging a ball into play is the post in the upper left corner always supposed to be raised on launch to bounce it back to the ABC lanes or is there something that makes it go up or down?

My post never seems to be in the up position.

3.03 is the latest cpu versuin and 3.01 is the latest display version.

Not sure if its supposed to catch it every time or not. Sometimes mine doesn't catch it either I wasn't sure if it was random or it was actually supposed to catch it everytime either. Sorry I realize this is no help to you just thought i would chime in on that problem as well.

Have you tested the post in the solenoid test menu? If it doesn't operate in test then that's a similar issue to what i had (board problem)

This has to be the biggest F job yet but for someone who is desperate for a brand new left ramp I just spotted this on fleabay. ebay.com link: STERN MONOPOLY Pinball Machine Game Genuine Replacement LEFT RAMP 515 7221 00

HOLY CRAPOLA....$350

Going to have to open the hood on my machine tomorrow, turned it on for a game tonight and got flipper issues with the upper. I haven't played the machine for a few weeks as i've been unashamedly flogging my Maiden pinny lately. The upper flipper is staying up when you start a game and drops when the power is turned off so it's most definitely an electrical problem. The only weird thing is, in solenoid test mode it activates as per normal which i wouldn't expect to happen so i'm hoping it's not a board issue with a TIP, maybe the switch shorting??

It’s like 500$ CDN, wow!

Ouch!! That kinda crap really disgusts me and it seems to be far more prevolent in pinball. Such a hard part to come by and could really help someone out and instead they try to F someone badly. Nothing wrong with getting a good return but at the end of the day I personally would gain more satisfaction knowing someones machine was firing on all cylinders from an old part I supplied.

I did that with a pinbot I parted out, it was great getting hard to come by parts out to people for an extremely reasonable price.

Yeah, sellers a moron. He has the right ramp for sale too at $449.99. Just to screw with him and give him a reality check at the same time I sent him this..

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7220-00

He replies with, "Why are you sending me a link to another page?"

At what he's asking I'm surprised that he hasn't bought the remainder of Marcos ramps so that he can also sit on those at his overinflated asking price.

Nice job i'm certain from the sounds of it that he clearly didn't get it. What a jerkoff. Nice job taking the initiative to mess wirh him.

Anyone do a led kit for the backbox? it would be neat to light up the board in different ways

It could be neat to hook up some flashers in line with the PF flashers and get some action going on back there though!

Hey guys,

I have a new plastic to replace this broken and me, but the bulb socket is machine locked to the plastic. What should I be using to get this thing off?

Also, is there a way to reattach it easily?

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Just use a drill bit from the back side to remove it.

Then you can use a rivet to replace into the new plastic if you have the tools.

Easiest way is to use a drill bit a bit bigger than the back of the rivet itself NOT the the star washer that is captured. Obviously you need to be somewhat careful doing this but at least in this case, damage to the plastic by going "off course" with the drill isn't a worry, just your fingers You don't need to drill out the rivet, just aiming to get rid of the folded edge so just take it slowly. To re-attach the bulb holder to the new plastic just use a normal rivet gun with rivet size to match the hole, unless of course you have the means to use the original style rollover rivets (either with a punch and die set or a rivet press with fittings) Only main difference is that regular rivets have the hole once attached so don't look quite as neat. No biggie

I grind off the backside of the rivet with a dremel cutting wheel. Then find a small bolt and nut to affix the holder to the new plastic.

Thanks guys!

Got it off with a drill and found a small nut that fit the hole well.

New plastic was new old stock and looks great now!

This game started rough so I will have some more questions.

For example, is there anywhere I can find the monopoly money image file that was used to cover the red wood at the back of the playfield, or as the side blades?

I have a great large format printer, so I just needed the measurements to be able to print the side blades. Is this something someone would have?

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Dude, after seeing the second pic you posted there, tear it right down and shop/clean it out. I bet if the playfield is that dirty the sleeves need replacing and the PF needs a big scrub job. Love the monopoly!! There is a guy or two that sells the Monopoly decal for the back plain assed red board. Mancave makes and sells them.

Couldn't agree more. That thing is really dirty and needs a complete teardown and a really good cleaning. Would bet all those coil sleeves are completely shot as well. My advice would be to fix those small things like that sign after you take it all apart. Clean the hell out of it and give it a couple coats of wax and it will play like a new game. Sucks when you just want to play it but the cleaning IMO is step 1.

Easiest way is to use a drill bit a bit bigger than the back of the rivet itself NOT the the star washer that is captured.

Hey Paul what ever happened with your protector you were making by the railway ramp? Did you ever finally get it dialed in all the way?

I did get it finalised Bill and i'm pretty happy with it, certainly no stuck balls since making the small changes i documented in previous posts. I will have some extras of these to sell eventually but due to a stuff up (mine) the sizing when they were cut out was about 20mm too big all round. For some reason when i converted the file to an EPS file for the plastics guys the sizing got screwed up. Currently waiting on the new batch and then i just need to make some metal brackets to rivet on. The way it's going at the moment it's probably not going to be until after Christmas, getting crazy busy at work as you can imagine.

Agreed!! This isn't a difficult pin at all to shop out. Strip her down

Joined the club! Have lowkey wanted a Monopoly for years and found a local deal on one today!

Okay tycoons, getting into this game and seeing a couple issues. Was hoping you might have some guidance for me:

First, here's what I know, looks like it is a pretty early game with no ramp protectors or anything like that, date of 10/30/01 on the PF. Display version is A2.06 and CPU ROM 2.41 if that ends up being relevant. Game is dead level and angled correctly.

So when I got the game the left ramp diverter didn't work. There was a broken solder on the coil, which I fixed, and now it works... but it works every time and never lets the ball go to the lock lane, even when lock is lit.

Also, my Electric Company saucer just pops the ball straight up and then back down into the saucer like 9/10 times. The assembly seems aligned, everything moves cleanly and the plunger doesn't hit the switch. Thinking maybe the plunger might be the problem? There is also a random extra hole here... am I missing something?

Any ideas or assistance is much appreciated!

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Okay so some progress. Looks like my Center Ramp switch is flaky, and I bet that's why my lock shot isn't working (game doesn't see a center pass but it does see the side pass so maybe it assumes side ramp and diverts?)

Also did some adjusting on the Electric Company scoop. It's basically brand new clean so I don't think it's the plunger, but it seems a lil better now?

Yeah, I found it tough to dial in that first centre ramp switch. Mine was hitting about 40% till I did some minor bending and manipulating

Looking to see if I can upgrade/replace 2 parts of my friends monopoly....The plastic sign on the main ramp has the clear front cracked and the bank door is a little rough. I am guessing this is normal. I have plastic set but not clear front or a river tool.
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That "Relight jackpot" sign had been "repaired" before. That clear front and the screws aren't original.

Thx. I have new plastics. Looks like I need a rivet tool

How is sign mounted to ramp ?

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There are rivets that go through that bottom corners.