Your prototype fix looks pretty good to me Psul have you been able to put some games under your belt and put it to the test yet?

Thanks Bill, it's functional at least could sure be a bit prettier. I've played about 25 games with it now and all's well so far, mind you the ball has only gone close once and it actually bounced up onto the pop bumper close to the ramp and then rolled back onto the playfield along that part of the guide. It could be made a bit taller i think and i would use some ramp style rivets for the next time, they look a bit cleaner than regular rivets. I've got some more acrylic on order so i plan to tinker a little bit more with it

Looks like your on the right track with that improvised piece you made. Keep us posted with your progress as I also am not happy with the piece i made from those plans.

Hey all, looking to see if anyone has made any extra backboard decals and want to sell one? Man, did they ever drop the ball putting that red board on the back, boring, like a cop out.

Also, does anyone have the same issue as me with glare from the BG while playing, no other of my pins do this, I can hardly see the top 1/3 of the game while playing the glare is so bad. Thx all!! Happy to be in the club!!

WOW, just played a game, this happened on the centre ramp, blew the switch gate right off the ramp. Don’t know what it hit but caught funny and it’s done for.

Any ideas on a repair??
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Edit- we’ll thinking of just moving down the ramp a couple inches and putting the switch there. Probably makes the most sense.

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Couple of options with that.
1). It looks like you still have the piece of the ramp intact attached to the bracket. I would use a glue like 24 hour Araldite epoxy to glue the piece back in but also add a longer 2mm strip of acrylic underneath the busted piece to bolster it (with bracket holes pre drilled and lined up with the existing holes) It won't look fantastically pretty but it will be stronger and functional.
2). I've seen the switch bracket attached to the back board before using an altered self made bracket which again is functional but not ideal.
3). Or like you mentioned, attach the bracket further back along the ramp which shouldn't effect game play at all although you will still have the gaping hole in the side of the ramp.
When i got my machine it had a shoddy combo of 1) and 2) but most of the chunk busted off was missing. The bracket was still attached to the ramp by 1 screw but also screwed to the backboard. I fashioned a piece of acrylic to fit the gap missing in the ramp (but first squared the busted edges off) and then glued the section in + an extra piece underneath to help strengthen the area. It worked absolutely fine up until i just recently swapped over to a decent 2nd hand left ramp i bought. PM me about a backboard decal if you like, i have spares of the type i made up for my machine

Ohh and for the backglass glare i use one of those bent plastics you can buy from Pinball Life, they work a treat.

You nailed it Paul!

The other thing I noticed is that in your pic of your ramp you don't have the plastic protector installed on that ramp. With the protector installed the ball loses a lot of inertia when it shoots up the ramp initially and makes contact with the protector which is enough to remove that extra stress from the switch when the ball makes contact with it. Check back on page 9 for the link I posted for a template to make your own protector its just a piece of lexan cut to size. Hope this helps AFTER you follow Pauls advice on how to fix your busted ramp of course.

You got it man, thx. I have already read through and got the lexan in my cart on amazon. For some reason it’s 10x the price on .ca over .com. Frig we get hosed. I’m heading to AZ in three weeks, I’ll buy it in a couple weeks and have it delivered to the house in Arizona so I can make the templates.

This was a HUO that I got his week. It had zero of the bulletins done. Zero.

Anyone have an extra working electric sign for sale?

Keep checking ebay I saw one a couple weeks ago for like $35 on there.

shopping a friends monopoly. bottom outlane plastics are cracked. avail anywhere?

Got incredibly tired of the boring shooter rod so I went ahead and built my own. I've seen a few other guys do this mod and it was incredibly easy and only took bout 45 mins from start to finish.

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How did you do that? Heat the rod up and insert it into a plastic dice?

Don't know where my wife scored the bigger dice from but the new shooter rod comes from pinballlife.com for like $5. Since the marking on the dice for 1 was centered I just drilled the hole out a bit smaller than the shooter rod. Then I tapped in the rod with a rubber mallet and put a new set of springs on it and called it a day. Is a really easy uograde and lookd pretty damn good I think.

How do you get the handle off the Pin life shooter rod? Never mind they sell them that way

any idea where dice came from?

Not sure where the dice came from try amazon or michaels. The shooter rod you buy from pinballlife is bare you just beat it into the hole you drill out.

So you need this https://www.pinballlife.com/knobless-shooter-rod.html
And u need this https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-barrel-spring-075-long.html

And u need this https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-purple.html

Hope this helps

Finished version of the lower ball guard. I'm fairly happy with how this turned out even though it's not much different to the first version. Only main change is that i made the guard higher close to the back of the sign which will prevent a ball getting stuck in between the top globe/led holder of the sign and the guard itself. It looks like a fair gap still going off the pics but there isn't enough space for the ball to wedge there. In the worst case of jump balls the ball may land on the wiring for that top globe/led but it will roll off to the back towards the ramp and then back onto the play field. The guard does sit very snug to the top of the pop bumper cap but that won't be an issue. Needed to jiggle the sign a bit when screwing the ramp back down, (only need to remove the bottom 2 screws and the upper left) just to get the guard to settle in front of it but pretty easy to mount otherwise

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Hey Paul looks good. How bout a bit more info on a template for your design and how you mounted it. Good job on this because a stuck ball is super annoying and hopefully this solves that problem.

Cheers Bill. I don't have the program on my desktop to create a template like the one's for the original guards. I've had a go at measuring the angles, etc and at least the lengths are correct for each edge so you can hopefully use this as a rough guide. If anyone is good at creating a template for an EPS file then you are welcome to use these calculations and i'd be happy to help out with any further clarifications if needed (most likely )
I attached the guard using a length of 1.6mm thick stainless steel strip which is 20mm wide and approx 75mm long, the last 25mm is bent downwards at approx 45-50 degrees, the angle can be varied to suit really but that's a general guide. The exact positions of the 2 holes for the end of the stainless bracket in the vertical axis aren't critical, as long as they are within that 25mm bend it's all good but they will need to be the distance from the left hand side as indicated (47mm). Please note that i also rounded off the edges of the plastic so there was no pointy edges to break bits off from, doesn't show that in the outline. The stainless bracket has one hole drilled at the other end which is attached to the top of the star post using the existing large screw and nut already there. I just added a washer either side of the bracket so it sits better on top of the plastic star post. I've probably missed something in this so let me know if i have or confused the issue further with my explanations
P.S, yeah sorry about the measurements, i'd just get all confused trying to convert to non metric.

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Nice work Paul and thanks for the thorough walkthrough and explanation of your work.

Can I get a price check on a HUO low play Monopoly please. Assume all good and as expected for HUO/ low play.

Just wanted to confirm as I am picking one up as part of a package deal later this month.

thanks

Theres 1 listed right now on pinside as HUO and its at $3450

Is it under 600 plays?

Omg, I can’t beleive I went there

No worries at all. I did forget to mention that i used a heat gun to bend the plastic back at about 45 Degrees. Refer to the pic but it's just after the right hand side of the 56mm lower edge that leads into the 49mm edge. This part is necessary cause it stops a ball getting wedged OR getting behind the guard if a ball goes onto the lower pop bumper.

I've got the same but white with black dots

Oh hell here we go again with the Baywatch only 600 original plays!! I also have a low flight unicorn I would like to sell he only has 200 flights. Make offer

You can still buy the complete plastic set at a few places (Marco's and RTBB over here in Aus) I don't think there is anywhere that sells separate plastics apart from the usual slingshot plastics. I might have 2 spare lane guide plastics for this machine as i changed my complete set when i bought it, no idea what the condition is though, will have to look for them.

thx...after seeing some other broken plastics. We decided to just get the set.

I checked and there is actually a write up that you can change our your start button to this one. I see I have two wires rolled up right below my start button in the harness already.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsballystern-red-start-button.html

Do you have a link to the writeup? I didn't think you could have it light up when credits were added, but if that's possible, that'd be cool!

This is below the product. Maybe it doesn’t have a light!

“Williams/Bally/Stern red "START" button.

Comes with switch, lamp, and mounting nut.

A great mod for many games such as Terminator 2, AC/DC, Funhouse, The Getaway, Iron Man, and many others.

Most Stern machines from 1999-2007 originally came equiped with a *blank* red start button. This red button adds the much needed *START* legend to the assembly.

Stern part #500-6388-44.

Williams/Bally reference #20-9663.”

*Edit - Yeah, I see it comes with lamp

I put a generic light up switch in mine so no reason this one wont work.

Is it lit up all the time or does it activate when you add credits?

Lit all the time

any idea what size your dice are. most are 19mm which is about .7 inches. prob too small

Mine are 1.5" anything smaller imo would be too small.

thx. looking for larger ones

Gotta be tons on amazon

Im looking Most are small.

The one on mine is 2 inch, from Fleabay but that was over a year ago.

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Supposedly, the optimal size is 30mm with rounded corners (assuming you drill into the corner and not a flat side). Depending on the color you want, you might be able to find that. I wanted transparent red and I wasn't able to find that in 30mm. The closest I could find was 25mm from Aliexpress. I just received them a couple of weeks ago, but I was out of the country. Gunna try drilling this weekend and see how it works out.

Just getting caught up on posts.. I made one for myself and just had it printed at Staples on adhesive material. I can post a full size image someplace if you are interested in getting one made. Otherwise there are places that sell a decal.

Here is a sample:

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let me know how drilling on corner goes. prob much better then flat side

i would love a pdf file!

Assuming MediaFire doesn't mess it up:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/8yxvbyldlf5782q/Backboard.tif/file

Recently purchased Monopoly worked fine before the move. Got it home, played a couple of games and the display crapped out. First just garbled. Then I turned the game off and back on and display is dark.

I’ve reseated the ribbon cables, checked the fuse. No change. Red LED on the display board is lit when power is on.

Any ideas of where to look next?

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Check the power cable connector (the one with a black and red wire) When i first got my machine i had the same issues and it was a connection problem with that plug.

Very cool...what size should it be? What was the cost to print on adhesive? Thx

Reseated but no luck. Thanks anyway for the suggestion.