(Topic ID: 78379)

Monopoly Club!! - Own it All!!!


By SilverUnicorn

4 years ago



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  • 550 posts
  • 102 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by gunstarhero
  • Topic is favorited by 33 Pinsiders

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There are 550 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 11.
#451 80 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

So here's my prototype solution for that small lower guard. It will block a ball going in behind the sign completely and if a ball goes onto the pop bumper it will just roll straight back onto the playfield. I might make it taller so a ball can't fly up and drop into the gap between the top LED bracket of the sign and the prototype guard. Although there isn't enough space for a ball to drop into that gap there is a slight possibility of a ball sitting there. There is a gap on the ramp side of the upper LED bracket but upon testing a ball will roll straight back onto the playfield below the chance scoop (mind you it would be a serious air ball to jump into that gap). Thoughts? Suggestions?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your prototype fix looks pretty good to me Psul have you been able to put some games under your belt and put it to the test yet?

#452 79 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Your prototype fix looks pretty good to me Psul have you been able to put some games under your belt and put it to the test yet?

Thanks Bill, it's functional at least could sure be a bit prettier. I've played about 25 games with it now and all's well so far, mind you the ball has only gone close once and it actually bounced up onto the pop bumper close to the ramp and then rolled back onto the playfield along that part of the guide. It could be made a bit taller i think and i would use some ramp style rivets for the next time, they look a bit cleaner than regular rivets. I've got some more acrylic on order so i plan to tinker a little bit more with it

#453 79 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Thanks Bill, it's functional at least could sure be a bit prettier. I've played about 25 games with it now and all's well so far, mind you the ball has only gone close once and it actually bounced up onto the pop bumper close to the ramp and then rolled back onto the playfield along that part of the guide. It could be made a bit taller i think and i would use some ramp style rivets for the next time, they look a bit cleaner than regular rivets. I've got some more acrylic on order so i plan to tinker a little bit more with it

Looks like your on the right track with that improvised piece you made. Keep us posted with your progress as I also am not happy with the piece i made from those plans.

1 week later
#454 72 days ago

Hey all, looking to see if anyone has made any extra backboard decals and want to sell one? Man, did they ever drop the ball putting that red board on the back, boring, like a cop out.

Also, does anyone have the same issue as me with glare from the BG while playing, no other of my pins do this, I can hardly see the top 1/3 of the game while playing the glare is so bad. Thx all!! Happy to be in the club!!

#455 71 days ago

WOW, just played a game, this happened on the centre ramp, blew the switch gate right off the ramp. Don’t know what it hit but caught funny and it’s done for.

Any ideas on a repair??
32453674-2CAA-4EA1-868C-C85B8A53268C (resized).jpeg

Edit- we’ll thinking of just moving down the ramp a couple inches and putting the switch there. Probably makes the most sense.

B671EDD3-F772-46EE-B49B-BA90F56BD6F5 (resized).jpeg
#456 71 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

WOW, just played a game, this happened on the centre ramp, blew the switch gate right off the ramp. Don’t know what it hit but caught funny and it’s done for.

Any ideas on a repair??

Couple of options with that.
1). It looks like you still have the piece of the ramp intact attached to the bracket. I would use a glue like 24 hour Araldite epoxy to glue the piece back in but also add a longer 2mm strip of acrylic underneath the busted piece to bolster it (with bracket holes pre drilled and lined up with the existing holes) It won't look fantastically pretty but it will be stronger and functional.
2). I've seen the switch bracket attached to the back board before using an altered self made bracket which again is functional but not ideal.
3). Or like you mentioned, attach the bracket further back along the ramp which shouldn't effect game play at all although you will still have the gaping hole in the side of the ramp.
When i got my machine it had a shoddy combo of 1) and 2) but most of the chunk busted off was missing. The bracket was still attached to the ramp by 1 screw but also screwed to the backboard. I fashioned a piece of acrylic to fit the gap missing in the ramp (but first squared the busted edges off) and then glued the section in + an extra piece underneath to help strengthen the area. It worked absolutely fine up until i just recently swapped over to a decent 2nd hand left ramp i bought. PM me about a backboard decal if you like, i have spares of the type i made up for my machine

Ohh and for the backglass glare i use one of those bent plastics you can buy from Pinball Life, they work a treat.

#457 71 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Couple of options with that.
1). It looks like you still have the piece of the ramp intact attached to the bracket. I would use a glue like 24 hour Araldite epoxy to glue the piece back in but also add a longer 2mm strip of acrylic underneath the busted piece to bolster it (with bracket holes pre drilled and lined up with the existing holes) It won't look fantastically pretty but it will be stronger and functional.
2). I've seen the switch bracket attached to the back board before using an altered self made bracket which again is functional but not ideal.
3). Or like you mentioned, attach the bracket further back along the ramp which shouldn't effect game play at all although you will still have the gaping hole in the side of the ramp.
When i got my machine it had a shoddy combo of 1) and 2) but most of the chunk busted off was missing. The bracket was still attached to the ramp by 1 screw but also screwed to the backboard. I fashioned a piece of acrylic to fit the gap missing in the ramp (but first squared the busted edges off) and then glued the section in + an extra piece underneath to help strengthen the area. It worked absolutely fine up until i just recently swapped over to a decent 2nd hand left ramp i bought. PM me about a backboard decal if you like, i have spares of the type i made up for my machine
Ohh and for the backglass glare i use one of those bent plastics you can buy from Pinball Life, they work a treat.

You nailed it Paul!

Quoted from northerndude:

WOW, just played a game, this happened on the centre ramp, blew the switch gate right off the ramp. Don’t know what it hit but caught funny and it’s done for.
Any ideas on a repair??
[quoted image]
Edit- we’ll thinking of just moving down the ramp a couple inches and putting the switch there. Probably makes the most sense.[quoted image]

The other thing I noticed is that in your pic of your ramp you don't have the plastic protector installed on that ramp. With the protector installed the ball loses a lot of inertia when it shoots up the ramp initially and makes contact with the protector which is enough to remove that extra stress from the switch when the ball makes contact with it. Check back on page 9 for the link I posted for a template to make your own protector its just a piece of lexan cut to size. Hope this helps AFTER you follow Pauls advice on how to fix your busted ramp of course.

#458 71 days ago

You got it man, thx. I have already read through and got the lexan in my cart on amazon. For some reason it’s 10x the price on .ca over .com. Frig we get hosed. I’m heading to AZ in three weeks, I’ll buy it in a couple weeks and have it delivered to the house in Arizona so I can make the templates.

This was a HUO that I got his week. It had zero of the bulletins done. Zero.

#459 70 days ago

Anyone have an extra working electric sign for sale?

#460 70 days ago
Quoted from Droptargets:

Anyone have an extra working electric sign for sale?

Keep checking ebay I saw one a couple weeks ago for like $35 on there.

#461 68 days ago

shopping a friends monopoly. bottom outlane plastics are cracked. avail anywhere?

#462 67 days ago

Got incredibly tired of the boring shooter rod so I went ahead and built my own. I've seen a few other guys do this mod and it was incredibly easy and only took bout 45 mins from start to finish.

20181007_150850 (resized).jpg20181007_152540 (resized).jpg
#463 67 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Got incredibly tired of the boring shooter rod so I went ahead and built my own. I've seen a few other guys do this mod and it was incredibly easy and only took bout 45 mins from start to finish.
[quoted image][quoted image]

How did you do that? Heat the rod up and insert it into a plastic dice?

#464 67 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

How did you do that? Heat the rod up and insert it into a plastic dice?

Don't know where my wife scored the bigger dice from but the new shooter rod comes from pinballlife.com for like $5. Since the marking on the dice for 1 was centered I just drilled the hole out a bit smaller than the shooter rod. Then I tapped in the rod with a rubber mallet and put a new set of springs on it and called it a day. Is a really easy uograde and lookd pretty damn good I think.

#465 67 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Don't know where my wife scored the bigger dice from but the new shooter rod comes from pinballlife.com for like $5. Since the marking on the dice for 1 was centered I just drilled the hole out a bit smaller than the shooter rod. Then I tapped in the rod with a rubber mallet and put a new set of springs on it and called it a day. Is a really easy uograde and lookd pretty damn good I think.

How do you get the handle off the Pin life shooter rod? Never mind they sell them that way

any idea where dice came from?

#466 67 days ago

Not sure where the dice came from try amazon or michaels. The shooter rod you buy from pinballlife is bare you just beat it into the hole you drill out.

#467 67 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

How do you get the handle off the Pin life shooter rod? Never mind they sell them that way
any idea where dice came from?

So you need this https://www.pinballlife.com/knobless-shooter-rod.html
And u need this https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-barrel-spring-075-long.html

And u need this https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-inner-spring-purple.html

Hope this helps

#468 66 days ago

Finished version of the lower ball guard. I'm fairly happy with how this turned out even though it's not much different to the first version. Only main change is that i made the guard higher close to the back of the sign which will prevent a ball getting stuck in between the top globe/led holder of the sign and the guard itself. It looks like a fair gap still going off the pics but there isn't enough space for the ball to wedge there. In the worst case of jump balls the ball may land on the wiring for that top globe/led but it will roll off to the back towards the ramp and then back onto the play field. The guard does sit very snug to the top of the pop bumper cap but that won't be an issue. Needed to jiggle the sign a bit when screwing the ramp back down, (only need to remove the bottom 2 screws and the upper left) just to get the guard to settle in front of it but pretty easy to mount otherwise

DSC03857 (resized).JPGDSC03858 (resized).JPG
#469 66 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Finished version of the lower ball guard. I'm fairly happy with how this turned out even though it's not much different to the first version. Only main change is that i made the guard higher close to the back of the sign which will prevent a ball getting stuck in between the top globe/led holder of the sign and the guard itself. It looks like a fair gap still going off the pics but there isn't enough space for the ball to wedge there. In the worst case of jump balls the ball may land on the wiring for that top globe/led but it will roll off to the back towards the ramp and then back onto the play field. The guard does sit very snug to the top of the pop bumper cap but that won't be an issue. Needed to jiggle the sign a bit when screwing the ramp back down, (only need to remove the bottom 2 screws and the upper left) just to get the guard to settle in front of it but pretty easy to mount otherwise
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Paul looks good. How bout a bit more info on a template for your design and how you mounted it. Good job on this because a stuck ball is super annoying and hopefully this solves that problem.

#470 65 days ago

Cheers Bill. I don't have the program on my desktop to create a template like the one's for the original guards. I've had a go at measuring the angles, etc and at least the lengths are correct for each edge so you can hopefully use this as a rough guide. If anyone is good at creating a template for an EPS file then you are welcome to use these calculations and i'd be happy to help out with any further clarifications if needed (most likely )
I attached the guard using a length of 1.6mm thick stainless steel strip which is 20mm wide and approx 75mm long, the last 25mm is bent downwards at approx 45-50 degrees, the angle can be varied to suit really but that's a general guide. The exact positions of the 2 holes for the end of the stainless bracket in the vertical axis aren't critical, as long as they are within that 25mm bend it's all good but they will need to be the distance from the left hand side as indicated (47mm). Please note that i also rounded off the edges of the plastic so there was no pointy edges to break bits off from, doesn't show that in the outline. The stainless bracket has one hole drilled at the other end which is attached to the top of the star post using the existing large screw and nut already there. I just added a washer either side of the bracket so it sits better on top of the plastic star post. I've probably missed something in this so let me know if i have or confused the issue further with my explanations
P.S, yeah sorry about the measurements, i'd just get all confused trying to convert to non metric.

IMG (resized).jpg

#471 65 days ago

Nice work Paul and thanks for the thorough walkthrough and explanation of your work.

Quoted from Mancave:

Cheers Bill. I don't have the program on my desktop to create a template like the one's for the original guards. I've had a go at measuring the angles, etc and at least the lengths are correct for each edge so you can hopefully use this as a rough guide. If anyone is good at creating a template for an EPS file then you are welcome to use these calculations and i'd be happy to help out with any further clarifications if needed (most likely )
I attached the guard using a length of 1.6mm thick stainless steel strip which is 20mm wide and approx 75mm long, the last 25mm is bent downwards at approx 45-50 degrees, the angle can be varied to suit really but that's a general guide. The exact positions of the 2 holes for the end of the SS bracket in the vertical axis aren't critical, as long as they are within that 25mm bend it's all good but they will need to be the distance from the left hand side as indicated (47mm). Please note that i also rounded off the edges of the plastic so there was no pointy edges to break bits off from, doesn't show that in the outline. The SS bracket has one hole drilled at the other end which is attached to the top of the star post using the existing large screw and nut already there. I just added a washer either side of the SS bracket so it's sits nicer on top of the plastic star post. I've probably missed something in this so let me know if i have or confused the issue further with my explanations
P.S, yeah sorry about the measurements, i'd just get all confused trying to convert to non metric.
[quoted image]

#472 65 days ago

Can I get a price check on a HUO low play Monopoly please. Assume all good and as expected for HUO/ low play.

Just wanted to confirm as I am picking one up as part of a package deal later this month.

thanks

#473 65 days ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Can I get a price check on a HUO low play Monopoly please. Assume all good and as expected for HUO/ low play.
Just wanted to confirm as I am picking one up as part of a package deal later this month.
thanks

Theres 1 listed right now on pinside as HUO and its at $3450

#474 65 days ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Can I get a price check on a HUO low play Monopoly please. Assume all good and as expected for HUO/ low play.
Just wanted to confirm as I am picking one up as part of a package deal later this month.
thanks

Is it under 600 plays?

Omg, I can’t beleive I went there

#475 65 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Nice work Paul and thanks for the thorough walkthrough and explanation of your work

No worries at all. I did forget to mention that i used a heat gun to bend the plastic back at about 45 Degrees. Refer to the pic but it's just after the right hand side of the 56mm lower edge that leads into the 49mm edge. This part is necessary cause it stops a ball getting wedged OR getting behind the guard if a ball goes onto the lower pop bumper.

#476 65 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Got incredibly tired of the boring shooter rod so I went ahead and built my own. I've seen a few other guys do this mod and it was incredibly easy and only took bout 45 mins from start to finish.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've got the same but white with black dots

#477 65 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Is it under 600 plays?
Omg, I can’t beleive I went there

Oh hell here we go again with the Baywatch only 600 original plays!! I also have a low flight unicorn I would like to sell he only has 200 flights. Make offer

#478 64 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

shopping a friends monopoly. bottom outlane plastics are cracked. avail anywhere?

You can still buy the complete plastic set at a few places (Marco's and RTBB over here in Aus) I don't think there is anywhere that sells separate plastics apart from the usual slingshot plastics. I might have 2 spare lane guide plastics for this machine as i changed my complete set when i bought it, no idea what the condition is though, will have to look for them.

#479 64 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You can still buy the complete plastic set at a few places (Marco's and RTBB over here in Aus) I don't think there is anywhere that sells separate plastics apart from the usual slingshot plastics. I might have 2 spare lane guide plastics for this machine as i changed my complete set when i bought it, no idea what the condition is though, will have to look for them.

thx...after seeing some other broken plastics. We decided to just get the set.

#480 64 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I'm kind of surprised that the start button is not illuminated. It's easy enough to add a button with a light. But, is there any way to wire it so that it lights/flashes when a game is ready?
I assume not, but thought I'd check..

I checked and there is actually a write up that you can change our your start button to this one. I see I have two wires rolled up right below my start button in the harness already.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsballystern-red-start-button.html

#481 63 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I checked and there is actually a write up that you can change our your start button to this one. I see I have two wires rolled up right below my start button in the harness already.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsballystern-red-start-button.html

Do you have a link to the writeup? I didn't think you could have it light up when credits were added, but if that's possible, that'd be cool!

#482 63 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Do you have a link to the writeup? I didn't think you could have it light up when credits were added, but if that's possible, that'd be cool!

This is below the product. Maybe it doesn’t have a light!

“Williams/Bally/Stern red "START" button.

Comes with switch, lamp, and mounting nut.

A great mod for many games such as Terminator 2, AC/DC, Funhouse, The Getaway, Iron Man, and many others.

Most Stern machines from 1999-2007 originally came equiped with a *blank* red start button. This red button adds the much needed *START* legend to the assembly.

Stern part #500-6388-44.

Williams/Bally reference #20-9663.”

*Edit - Yeah, I see it comes with lamp

#483 63 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Do you have a link to the writeup? I didn't think you could have it light up when credits were added, but if that's possible, that'd be cool!

I put a generic light up switch in mine so no reason this one wont work.

#484 63 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

I put a generic light up switch in mine so no reason this one wont work.

Is it lit up all the time or does it activate when you add credits?

#485 63 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Is it lit up all the time or does it activate when you add credits?

Lit all the time

#487 61 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

any idea what size your dice are. most are 19mm which is about .7 inches. prob too small

Mine are 1.5" anything smaller imo would be too small.

#488 60 days ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Mine are 1.5" anything smaller imo would be too small.

thx. looking for larger ones

#489 60 days ago

Gotta be tons on amazon

#490 60 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Gotta be tons on amazon

Im looking Most are small.

#491 60 days ago

The one on mine is 2 inch, from Fleabay but that was over a year ago.

994473be91bb199b0f4adf2d35ced55ab7236686 (resized).jpg
#492 60 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

any idea what size your dice are. most are 19mm which is about .7 inches. prob too small

Supposedly, the optimal size is 30mm with rounded corners (assuming you drill into the corner and not a flat side). Depending on the color you want, you might be able to find that. I wanted transparent red and I wasn't able to find that in 30mm. The closest I could find was 25mm from Aliexpress. I just received them a couple of weeks ago, but I was out of the country. Gunna try drilling this weekend and see how it works out.

#493 60 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Hey all, looking to see if anyone has made any extra backboard decals and want to sell one? Man, did they ever drop the ball putting that red board on the back, boring, like a cop out.

Just getting caught up on posts.. I made one for myself and just had it printed at Staples on adhesive material. I can post a full size image someplace if you are interested in getting one made. Otherwise there are places that sell a decal.

Here is a sample:

Backboard small (resized).jpg
#494 60 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Supposedly, the optimal size is 30mm with rounded corners (assuming you drill into the corner and not a flat side). Depending on the color you want, you might be able to find that. I wanted transparent red and I wasn't able to find that in 30mm. The closest I could find was 25mm from Aliexpress. I just received them a couple of weeks ago, but I was out of the country. Gunna try drilling this weekend and see how it works out.

let me know how drilling on corner goes. prob much better then flat side

#495 60 days ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Just getting caught up on posts.. I made one for myself and just had it printed at Staples on adhesive material. I can post a full size image someplace if you are interested in getting one made. Otherwise there are places that sell a decal.
Here is a sample:[quoted image]

i would love a pdf file!

#497 59 days ago

Recently purchased Monopoly worked fine before the move. Got it home, played a couple of games and the display crapped out. First just garbled. Then I turned the game off and back on and display is dark.

I’ve reseated the ribbon cables, checked the fuse. No change. Red LED on the display board is lit when power is on.

Any ideas of where to look next?

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#498 59 days ago
Quoted from Leosac:

Any ideas of where to look next?

Check the power cable connector (the one with a black and red wire) When i first got my machine i had the same issues and it was a connection problem with that plug.

#499 59 days ago

Very cool...what size should it be? What was the cost to print on adhesive? Thx

#500 59 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Check the power cable connector (the one with a black and red wire) When i first got my machine i had the same issues and it was a connection problem with that plug.

Reseated but no luck. Thanks anyway for the suggestion.

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