Mata Hari EM
Bally, 1977Starting to prep a Mata Hari cabinet for paint... after applying Kilz oil based primer, will be applying the base color with Molotow Signal Yellow, and then Signal Red and Black for the secondary colors... given the mantra ‘just enough paint to cover’, how many cans will I need for both primary and secondary colors?
My guess would be 2 for primary, and 1 each of the secondary - should this suffice?
Also would like a suggestion on a better cap to use, assume some type of fat cap?
#Mata Hari
Why Molotow? Is it good paint or fast drying? Good for stencils? Just wondering, I never heard of it.
Quoted from John_I:Why Molotow? Is it good paint or fast drying? Good for stencils? Just wondering, I never heard of it.
They’re high quality, smooth spraying, with a really good pigment load, don’t drip/run and dry hard.
A lot of the sprays out there have a poor pigment load and/or just look too lumpy when applied IMO... I try to paint cabs with minimal paint to achieve more of a flat look (no edge felt between base and secondary coats) that EMs sported from the factory.
Since I don’t have the time or want to spend the $ on lacquer paints/pigments, I feel this is a decent alternative.
oh yeah, they also have over 100 colors, with real nice color match for the cab I’m restoring.
I’ve also heard Ironlak and Montana brands are just as good.
Quoted from Dono:I try to paint cabs with minimal paint to achieve more of a flat look (no edge felt between base and secondary coats) that EMs sported from the factory.
That is what I was hoping. I've used automotive paint to stencil a cabinet before. It came out AWESOME and was easy as can be to work with. It dried in seconds and the stencil came right off. You can run your hand over the cabinet and not feel the edges at all. On the other hand it was hundreds of dollars for the paint! I've also used regular rattle cans of Rustoleum and it was awful to work with. The result was not bad and it was a lot cheaper, but pulling the stencils caused smearing and you can feel a distinct edge.
I appreciate the tip and just did a little research. Sounds like this stuff is what I should use next time I do a cabinet. I wonder how the "natural white" would do as the base coat on a Gottleib EM? I'll be ordering the color card.
Quoted from John_I:I've also used regular rattle cans of Rustoleum and it was awful
I second this ... I will never use it again. I tried it because all the US pinsiders mentioned using it ... but it went on way too thick and dried way too slow for my liking. Less is more when it comes to stencils.
I use a local made NZ spray which dries fast like the Molotow. I have some Molotow here to use for my next cabinet.
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Quoted from John_I:That is what I was hoping. I've used automotive paint to stencil a cabinet before. It came out AWESOME and was easy as can be to work with. It dried in seconds and the stencil came right off. You can run your hand over the cabinet and not feel the edges at all. On the other hand it was hundreds of dollars for the paint! I've also used regular rattle cans of Rustoleum and it was awful to work with. The result was not bad and it was a lot cheaper, but pulling the stencils caused smearing and you can feel a distinct edge.
I appreciate the tip and just did a little research. Sounds like this stuff is what I should use next time I do a cabinet. I wonder how the "natural white" would do as the base coat on a Gottleib EM? I'll be ordering the color card.
Montana Shock white cream for the base
Quoted from EMsInKC:Montana Shock white cream for the base
Thanks!! I was just looking at the Montana paints and noticed they have a lot more off-white colors.
Ive used their paint pens, and liked the results. I had no idea they did spray paint. I will have to check it out.
Quoted from John_I:Thanks!! I was just looking at the Montana paints and noticed they have a lot more off-white colors.
It's Montana Gold btw. It's a perfect color. Not too white but not too yellow.
Quoted from EMsInKC:Why Kilz oil based primer? That stuff is miserable to work with.
I was going to try it after having issues with my last cabinet repaint with some bleed through... was planning on rolling it on... what’s your issue with it?
Quoted from Dono:I was going to try it after having issues with my last cabinet repaint with some bleed through... was planning on rolling it on... what’s your issue with it?
Killz is perfect for 30 yr old cabs. I use a combo of rattle can and can + foam roller for priming it covers up EVERYTHING. I typically wait 48 to 72 hours for it to dry before any sanding is attempted.
Quoted from Gritty:Where is a good place to order Molotow spray paint from the US?
dickblick.com
You can also try 'Bombing Science'... cans were a 1$ cheaper when I ordered, and unlike ordering from Canada, the cans got to my house in 3 days.
Here's what you want:
Quoted from Dono:You can also try 'Bombing Science'... cans were a 1$ cheaper when I ordered, and unlike ordering from Canada, the cans got to my house in 3 days.
Here's what you want:
https://shop.bombingscience.com/molotow-premium-400ml.html
are these a gloss?
Quoted from Dono:I was going to try it after having issues with my last cabinet repaint with some bleed through... was planning on rolling it on... what’s your issue with it?
That stuff will kill you.
Quoted from pinhead52:are these a gloss?
I'd say they're in the middle of satin and semi-gloss... so to me they look perfect for EMs. Finishing up the base color today, I'll post some pix once the paint dries.
After many hours prepping the cabinet, its base color time... I used a Kilz primer, and very light coats of base yellow, followed by sanding first coat with 400 grit, 2nd and 3rd coats with 600... for best results wait for the paint to dry to sand (at least 12 hours on a light coat), and let the sanding pad or paper do the work.
I have found that the Molotow paint cans cover well, with the exception of their yellow colors... so I'll be ordering a few more cans today... a total of
6 cans base, 2 cans each black and red; that may be a bit much, but I'm running tight trying to get this machine ready for the York show, and would rather have a bit too much paint than too little.
Quoted from perryd:also depends on what color is going over what. I have used a few more cans than that on other machines with Bombing science paints and Montana Paints.
Great info... could you give a few examples where you might have to order more???
Quoted from Dono:Great info... could you give a few examples where you might have to order more???
Sure, if you have a dark blue or Black cabinet and need lighter colors like yellow, pink, light blue, etc...you will need to use more layers of paint to cover the darker base colors. These paints have richer pigments and better coverage than Krylon and Rustoleum, so it usually doesn't take as much as what you would have to use with those latter paints.
Any color paint that is lighter than the one you are painting over will require a little more paint unless you want the darker color to come through the lighter one.
Good Luck.
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Quoted from Silverstreak02:What stencils are you using with the Molotow or Montana paint?
Pinball Pimp stencils... you will be amazed how nice it looks and how ... that is if you don't care about the "no overspray" look. Oil board stencil material would most likely work equally as well, although I have not tried with the Molotow/Montana yet.
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Glenelg, MD
Winnipeg, MB