Can someone tell me if I have the right crimping tool. For .156 it works good but with .100” it seems like it just crimps one side. Hell i don’t know...obviously but this is what I have...
Can someone tell me if I have the right crimping tool. For .156 it works good but with .100” it seems like it just crimps one side. Hell i don’t know...obviously but this is what I have...
Ok just making sure thanks... I put it in the B side but it rocks and crimps on one side. I gotta get Xenon going so gotta get my sh~t straight! Literally
That's not a very good crimping tool.
If you search these archives, you'll find many recommendations.
Some are ratcheting...nice...takes some getting used to.
I like the Sargent 1026-CT or 1028-CT that GPE sells.
Only one crimp at a time, but I've so used to using it that I'm pretty fast.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
I use the 1026-CT from GPE and it works great. Takes some getting used to but after that its a great tool.
From GPE website:
"B" type insulation crimps in following cavities:
A = 20-16AWG, B = 30-22AWG
"B" type conductor crimps in following cavities:
C = 18-16AWG, D = 22-20AWG, E = 30-24AWG
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=138
and cheaper than Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
I love this pair. I've been using them for the back 5 years.
OUT
Quoted from pinball_ric:The A notch should work for .156 and the B notch should work with .100
A & B are for crimping insulated wires. He should be using a tool with C,D,E options for doing the wire to connector crimps
Quoted from madmatt1:amazon.com link »
I love this pair. I've been using them for the back 5 years.
MM
OUT
I use the same ratchet crimp and love it!
the 1026 has always worked great for me. That ratcheting one from Amazon looks nice but I don't need any more tools.
Quoted from LiveAfterDeath:Thanks all.... you guys are Awesome!!!
I use the iwiss crimper off Amazon.
I prefer the ratchet type it holds the pin while you insert the wire and always gives a good crimp.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_V5DrEb7CJTKDV
Quoted from pinballinreno:I use the iwiss crimper off Amazon.
I prefer the ratchet type it holds the pin while you insert the wire and always gives a good crimp.
amazon.com link »
+ 1 on this tool. I couldn't create decent crimps when making connectors to save my a$$, but with this tool I am actually able to create perfect crimps when making connectors. There are several YouTube videos on how to create perfect crimps using this tool.
Gord
Got one of these from Ed at https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ awhile back.
Glad I did.
Quoted from Platypus:the 1026 has always worked great for me. That ratcheting one from Amazon looks nice but I don't need any more tools.
You always need more tools!
Out
The HTR-2445A (Sargent is manufacturer - their part number 3136-CT) is an awesome tool due to the addition of a locator. Locator holds the pin for you, lines it up properly and includes a wire stop to keep you from inserting wire too far.
It's the locator on the crimper that makes all the difference in the world! Too bad they cost so freaking much.
Tried to convince Sargent to add a locator to their 3135-CT (HTR-2262A), no dice. Asked why it didn't have one to begin with. Answer has to do with the original customer's order - Molex. "They didn't ask for one"
Argh!
So, I tried to get them to make dedicated low cost versions with locator similar to the 1027-CT. The 1027-CT is an excellent crimper but is for D-Type connectors only. They considered it for awhile but nixed it in the end.
Quoted from G-P-E:The HTR-2445A (Sargent is manufacturer - their part number 3136-CT) is an awesome tool due to the addition of a locator. Locator holds the pin for you, lines it up properly and includes a wire stop to keep you from inserting wire too far.
It's the locator on the crimper that makes all the difference in the world! Too bad they cost so freaking much.
Tried to convince Sargent to add a locator to their 3135-CT (HTR-2262A), no dice. Asked why it didn't have one to begin with. Answer has to do with the original customer's order - Molex. "They didn't ask for one"
Argh!
So, I tried to get them to make dedicated low cost versions with locator similar to the 1027-CT. The 1027-CT is an excellent crimper but is for D-Type connectors only. They considered it for awhile but nixed it in the end.
And you have the best price in the country.
But I still suggest people watch ebay for these. You can find these as real bargains quite often on ebay. And you can find some real pieces of sht on there as well. I can get crimpers at cost yet still bought a full set of them on ebay for ridiculously cheap prices.
Right now there is a 2445A (0.156" contacts) at a real cheap price - see item 362913221404 for a pair of crimpers.
The 2445A is missing a locator - that means you need to spend about $20 for parts but still a bargain if you get it at less than $40. Not sure what the 2nd crimper is.
There is also a 1719 crimper (0.062" contacts) on ebay at $40 (item 274216702394) - also missing locator and was made by a Molex 'alternate source' as seen by square ends so not sure if the Sargent locators would fit. They were supposed to be interchangeable but not willing to try. Too pricey and risky in my opinion.
And another 1719 crimper made by sargent (round ends, item 193291003640) - missing locator and looks beat to crap. Avoid.
And another 1719 cirmper made by sargent that looks complete and real nice at $55 (item 352970761665). But above what would pay on ebay.
There are also Chinese knockoffs of the Sargent 1026CT's on ebay at $10-$12 each. Far, far less than my cost for the real thing. Being Chinese sourced ... good luck. Also saw some 1026CT's knockoffs on there at over $200 ... wonder what they're smoking.
... update on the 2445A at 362913221404. Does appear that is one of the pair made without the pawl lever or the pawl lever is broken off. Quite dangerous - I would suggest replacing the pawl lever if you were to buy them. Replacements are about $4.
Ed, do you have a detailed picture on how to reinstall the locator on the 2445A? I see the picture on your website instructions but it only shows the front side of the crimper. I took my locator off over a year ago because I wasn’t sure how to use it. Now I want to try it again but I can’t figure out how it goes back on. Mine is completely apart with the springs out of it. Thanks.
The only instructions for installing the locator is "using your imagination...."
I wish they would have at least provided cartoonish instructions for those rather than nothing at all.
I have found out that after a few rounds of "nope, that can't possibly be it", things get figured out in the end.
Once installed - you open the crimper, push up on the tab or 'button' on the bottom to open the locator, drop the contact into the locator leading edge first and facing up, release button. That's pretty much it. Once you get used to using the locator, you'll love how you don't have to hold the contact in place any longer.
Going by vendor specs - those are intended for wire sizes 22-26AWG and 24-30AWG.
Why would anybody use 30AWG with a 0.156" plug?
However, I have crimped wire as big as 18AWG with no problem.
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