Molex connectors/pins/housings for Tron mods/PIG mods.

Wanting to make my own mod power splitter harness (waiting on the PIG2) and going to do the lightcycles myself. Obviously the Flynn sign is already wired correctly since it's from the same person.. and Kimball knows what he's doing so I don't expect any issue from the recognizer.

Going to make a 1->5 way splitter that plugs into the power molex at the front of the cabinet, so that I can get everything all hooked up.

Need to know which housings for plug/socket to use, and which male and female pins are compatible together. Hoping someone has this info right on hand..

#2 11 years ago

dkpinball

Inactive member

Check out the PIG manual on www.dkpinball.com. Everything you need to know about the molex connectors are in there.

The connectors will stay the same on the PIG II.

#3 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member

Yeah, I was actually using that as a reference. You have two part numbers in there to connect TO the PIG, which is great, but I'm needing the other end of the connection to make my splitter harness, lol.

Basically, the black plug and the pins that are on the PIG that hook into the Stern plug for power, except crimp pins instead of PCB pins. I couldn't find pins that match pitch...like the male pins would be 2.5mm pitch and the female pins would be 2mm.

#4 11 years ago

dkpinball

Inactive member

Here is the part number that matches the plug on the machine side.

Description: Pin & Socket Connectors 3 CIRCUIT RECEPTACLE
Mouser Part #: 538-03-09-1033
Manufacturer Part #: 03-09-1033

Pins:
Mouser Part #: 538-02-09-1119
Manufacturer Part #: 02-09-1119
Manufacturer: Molex
Description: Pin & Socket Connectors CRIMP SKT BULK 18-22

Data Sheet:
http://www.mouser.com/ds/1/276/0003091033_CRIMP_HOUSINGS-87586.pdf

Let me know if you have any other questions.

#5 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member

Thanks, gonna look at this when I get home tonight. I think I may be getting a bit frustrated, lol..too busy here to dedicate the mental capacity to figuring this all out.

#6 11 years ago

SLB

Buckman

Pinside+ Frequent

Vancouver, BC

11y 77,400 1,074 9 7

Below is a picture of the 1 / 5 splitter that Kimballs made up for me. I also just ordered up a few things from http://www.greatplainselectronics.com yesterday. The molex connectors on the left side of the picture are:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-88.asp (Product ID: 03-09-1032)

Molex connector on the right side of picture is:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-87.asp (Product ID: 03-09-2032)

Crimp contacts:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-89.asp (Product ID: 02-09-1119 for contacts on the molex connectors for the left side of picture, and Product ID: 02-09-2118 for contacts on the molex connector for the right side of picture). These would be for 18-22AWG, and if you go with 14-20AWG just order the contacts just below the 18-22AWG ones.

Ed at Great Plains was great, helped me out with what I needed. Hope this helps.

splitter.JPG

#7 11 years ago

DUG

DugFreez

http://www.findchips.com/

It seems a lot of these parts have different part numbers. The places I have ordered from seem to be out of stock on the 03-09-1033 that is listed above. Instead they have part # 03-09-1032.

The 4 part numbers I have used for these splitter harnesses are:

03-09-1032 Connector, Receptacle, 3-Pin, 0.093"
02-09-1119 Crimp Contact, 0.093", Socket
03-09-2032 Connector, Plug, 3-Pin, 0.093"
02-09-2118 Crimp Contact, 0.093", Pin

I've also found that prices vary a lot on these small parts. Ex: 03-09-1032 is $.45 at Mouser and only $.10 at avnetexpress. $.35 might not seem like a lot, but if you are buying in bulk along with other parts...it adds up. Here is a nice website I have run onto that does price comparisons on these types of parts:

avnetexpress and tti.inc seem to be consistently the cheapest on these parts.

#8 11 years ago

dkpinball

Inactive member

I tend to order 100+ on these items to get the price break. Looking at AVNetexpress it looks like they say they're genuine molex connectors. I wonder how they're selling them so cheaply.

The difference in part numbers is for things like the connector having locking ramps and/or panel connectors (those annoying little ears that stick out).

#9 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member

You guys are the bomb, seriously.

No offence to Kimball, but if I had ordered that I'd be a bit miffed....it's WAY too short IMO! Those contacts are made for like 25 mate/de-mate cycles.. can't be unhooking that stuff every time you get in the pin. See Hooked's harness pics....nice and long to reach everything with the PF up.

Cool beans. I'm ordering parts.

*Edit* And really, isn't there a better way then soldering the wires all together than heat-shrinking over them, or am I dreaming?

#10 11 years ago

DUG

DugFreez

OP
Quoted from Frax:
You guys are the bomb, seriously.
No offence to Kimball, but if I had ordered that I'd be a bit miffed....it's WAY too short IMO! Those contacts are made for like 25 mate/de-mate cycles.. can't be unhooking that stuff every time you get in the pin. See Hooked's harness pics....nice and long to reach everything with the PF up.
Cool beans. I'm ordering parts.
*Edit* And really, isn't there a better way then soldering the wires all together than heat-shrinking over them, or am I dreaming?

I would think it's the job of the MOD to make sure it has enough wire to reach where the 12v/5v harness is in the cabinet...not the job of the harness splitter to be extended to wherever the MOD might be.

As for how it is put together, I don't know if there would be a better way, but getting 5 wire ends crimped together is one 1 Molex wire end might be tough.

#11 11 years ago

DUG

DugFreez

Quoted from dkpinball:
I tend to order 100+ on these items to get the price break. Looking at AVNetexpress it looks like they say they're genuine molex connectors. I wonder how they're selling them so cheaply.
The difference in part numbers is for things like the connector having locking ramps and/or panel connectors (those annoying little ears that stick out).

I've ordered from AVNetexpress a couple of time and the connectors are fine. The only issue I have with them is that of the 4 part numbers I have listed above....1 of them always ships from a different warehouse and I get dinged with double shipping every order.

I have also ordered from tti.inc, but only the wire ends. I was always afraid they would send the plastic connectors with the mounting ears (which I don't want). Next order I'm going to give them a shot on all 4 part numbers and see if they can deliver without the double shipping that I get from ordering these 4 from AVNetexpress.

#12 11 years ago

dkpinball

Inactive member

Quoted from DugFreez:
I would think it's the job of the MOD to make sure it has enough wire to reach where the 12v/5v harness is in the cabinet...not the job of the harness splitter to be extended to wherever the MOD might be.

+1. The Flynn's sign and PIG both include wires long enough to allow for being mounted permanently without disconnecting. Splitters are typically pretty short. Imagine a power strip with 6 10' power cables coming off of it, it would be pretty gangly.

#13 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member

Quoted from DugFreez:
1 of them always ships from a different warehouse and I get dinged with double shipping every order.

Now you tell me that...

I'm gonna get whacked with 8$ shipping twice? Their site didn't say anything about it, so unless their shipping is normally around 4$....

SzewcykM, I got the Flynn sign via Pinball Life yesterday with my parts order. You guys make a good point I guess about the splitter being the shorter part of the wire run... just to me, if I have to repair something, I'd rather mess with the splitter harness than something attached to the playfield, so that's why I was thinking I'd make my harness longer and the mod wires shorter. Move some of the equation of the risk of failure to the part that's most easily detachable.

#14 11 years ago

DUG

DugFreez

OP
Quoted from Frax:
Now you tell me that...

I'm gonna get whacked with 8$ shipping twice? Their site didn't say anything about it, so unless their shipping is normally around 4$....

Whenever I have ordered the 4 part numbers that I have listed above from avnetexpress...part number 02-09-1119 always shows on the order page as "Value Added". I don't really know what this term means except that it is coming from a different warehouse than the other 3 parts and you do get dinged an extra $8 for shipping. Even with the extra $8 it is still quite a bit cheaper than ordering from Great Plains or Mouser if you are buying a good bit of parts (order 100 pieces and you are saving $20 - $30) An extra $8 is small beans compared to that, but it would be nice to not have to have them shipped separately.

Next time I will be ordering from TTI.inc. I would have done that on my past order, but I was afraid that their connecters had the mounting ears that I didn't want. I have since asked them about the ears...they directed me to Molex and Molex said that the part numbers in question should not have the ears on them. So next time I am hoping for a 1 shipment solution.

#15 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member

Well, if they whack me with another 8$ charge for shipping, and it turns out my order would've been cheaper than that from somewhere else, then screw them and they can either credit me or eat chargeback. Nothing on there indicated I would be paying shipping twice...even the invoice only has a total and one shipping charge. I don't put up with deceptive crap like that just on principle.

I generally order from Mouser because they're local and I'd rather support a local business and get my parts faster. GPE has "outgrown their britches" if you ask me..... it seems every time I want to order something from them, one of the four things I need is not in stock. I'd love to support a pinball specific supplier, but not to the point where I am going to burn my own money to order a part they don't have from somewhere else and eat the shipping charge just to do it.

*edit* Yeah, from their own site... "You will be notified during check out, if products will be shipping from multiple warehouses locations. Please note that additional charges may apply. "

#16 11 years ago

GPE

G-P-E

GPE

Omaha, NE

13y 76,800 2,778 4

Misleading so to clarify. The comment "You will be notified during check out, if products will be shipping from multiple warehouses locations. Please note that additional charges may apply." does not apply to GPE.

Regarding the other comment. Gee, thanks...

#17 11 years ago

SLB

Buckman

Pinside+ Frequent

Vancouver, BC

11y 77,400 1,074 9 7

OP
Quoted from Frax:
No offence to Kimball, but if I had ordered that I'd be a bit miffed....it's WAY too short IMO!

This is the way I asked Kimballs to make it for me, my plan was to run each of the mods (light cycles, lit recognizer and Flynn sign) right to the splitter at the service box where the power is and then I could hook them all up there. Each mod has the wires coming down the playfield and zap strapped into the existing harnesses, so it's all nice and neat.

Main reason I wanted to run the splitter and wires this way is I knew I'd also be installing Mike's PIG at the front right of the cabinet (power runs from the molex connector by the service box right to the PIG). With the PIG installed I can just unhook stuff from the splitter and right into the PIG, which makes things easy.

Would definitely also work to run the wires out longer to reach each of the mods (and then have a short wire at each mod), just another way to do it. As you mention, if you wanted to take something out (ie. for repair) it would be much easier to unplug it right by the mod instead of having to clip the zap straps to get it out and then unhook at the splitter. If I didn't install a PIG this is not a bad idea at all, you've got to have wires running from point A to point B to connect stuff, so it does make it easier to remove the mod if the plug is right by it.

#18 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member

Just wanted to say that

Quoted from G-P-E:
Misleading so to clarify. The comment "You will be notified during check out, if products will be shipping from multiple warehouses locations. Please note that additional charges may apply." does not apply to GPE.
Regarding the other comment. Gee, thanks...

I think it's a testament to your service, frankly. If you're selling out of parts so much that I can't get the stuff I need from you, clearly, you're doing something right. I always check your site first, and when I can get all the stuff I need in one shipment, then you'll be the one I place my order with. I also refer people to your site. I'm sorry that I haven't been able to place an order with you because paying more for shipping than what parts cost pisses me off. Sorry if you feel my statement was slighting you, but that is my personal experience. Not sure what I can say about it other than what it is....

I can tell you that I will NOT be ordering from AVN again, because of the statement above. Sure enough, what was said earlier was correct about them. They are charging me twice because they had to ship a 1.50 bag of molex pins from somewhere else so I get whacked with another 8$ shipping. Absolutely-f'ing-ridiculous. I am effectively now paying 16 bucks shipping on 12.50 worth of parts. I don't care how cheap their stuff is, SCREW THAT.

Their molex connectors 03-09-2032 and 03-09-1032 do NOT have the ears, though.

#19 11 years ago

GPE

G-P-E

GPE

Omaha, NE

13y 76,800 2,778 4

OP
Quoted from Frax:
Their molex connectors 03-09-2032 and 03-09-1032 do NOT have the ears, though.

Fair enough.

Here are the main versions of the Molex 0.93", 3 pin plugs/receptacles:
03-09-1030 = side locking ramp (seldom used)
03-09-1031 = with ears, with locking ramp
03-09-1032 = without ears, with locking ramp (most common)
03-09-1033 = without ears, without locking ramp
Locking ramp is a small bump on the sides of the receptacle.

03-09-2031 = with ears, with locking window
03-09-2032 = without ears, with locking window (most common)
Locking window is a small hole on the side that matches the receptacle's locking ramp.

Molex drawing for these connectors:
http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Datasheets/Molex/SD-1396-3.pdf

I stick with only real Molex in this type of connector as they're still made locally. All the distributors mentioned above are also listing real molex connectors. There are Chinese variations out there. They quoted me a price of a penny apiece. Nah... not gonna go there. And you haven't lived until you use some brittle pot metal Chinese crimp contacts.

#20 11 years ago

FRX

Frax

Pinside member