Mo connectors, mo problems.

Seems like a terrible idea to me.

You are not going to be replacing solenoids all that often, so I would question if there is anything to be gained by adding a connector.

If you mean all of the solenoids and switches, then you would save a lot of desoldering and re-soldering effort. But you would also be adding another point for potential failure in the circuit.

If you are going to do this, use connectors sized specifically to the wire size. You can purchase these at Home Depot or any hardware store.

I wouldn't do it myself.

Maybe Levi's not all that crazy.

Agreed, stick with what the manufacturer did.

Why introduce more problems like resistance with connectors. I see more people adding these molex connectors and I think why? Just solder.

I believe HEP adds molex to coils.

I molex the drop target assemblies in my pins. Some are in a position that is hard to service when switches need adjusted.

I also replace my pop bumpers with the Data East style of pops and molex these so I can remove them for easier switch adjustments.

Stern uses them without issue and I have no problems with my conversion, either.

I do the same. Especially on drop target assemblies. Makes servicing them so much easier.

I've had some WPC games with spare connectors on the solenoids. I thought it was pretty handy.

I generally believe that "more connectors = more trouble".
But considering that solenoids are intermittently used as opposed to power connectors that are constantly used, I don't think these will introduce many problems into the grand scheme of things. And these are easy to troubleshoot and fix if/when they go bad.

I'm going to assume you have a rotisserie for this projects? If not, you should seriously consider it as you don't need anything fancy and can easily get by with a home made one using portable saw horses as a minimal cost.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-without-rotissary/page/2#post-2901464
I love Vids comment in this thread...its priceless

With the playfield upside down on your rotisserie, the coils are going to be no harder to solder in then they would be on your workbench.

I'm a big fan of molex connections. If the machine is a forever keeper, I'll put them on any assembly or solenoid. If it's a flip then I just use solder.

I've never done a swap on a TZ, but if its anything like STTNG most of the coils in assemblies are already going to have a molex connector; other than the flipper coils, there were very few coils that were actually hard soldered to the solenoid wiring harness.

How often are you replacing coils or rebuilding mechs where this effort invested now would make up for it later?

I'm giving it a try with the same connector arrangement I found on the knocker. I like having these assemblies I can tinker with at the workbench before moving it all back to the game.

shop-07 (resized).jpg

FWIW you only need a single wire to each leg of the coil, there is no reason to have two, this being said, since you are using 3-pin connectors can always daisy chain your coil power wiring through the unused pin, this would likely make them easier to build vs stuffing two wires into a single crimp connector.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-03-09-1032 - 3 CIRCUIT RECEPTACLE
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-02-09-1119 - CRIMP SKT BULK 18-22 0.93"
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-03-09-2032 - 3 CIRCUIT PLUG
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-02-09-2118 - CRIMP PIN BULK 18-22 0/93"

This will cost around $30 for 25 connector pairs and 100EA crimp pins and sockets.

Note: These are right at the edge of tolerance for carrying MAX flipper current...if you are going to socket your flipper mechs, you may want to consider using a bigger size and have around 6" of wire between the coil and socket to minimize vibrations. In reality these would likely work fine due to the short duration MAX flipper current is applied.

Good luck with your swap!

May I suggest Great Plains Electronics?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=83

Ed's prices are competitive. And he supports the pinball hobby. And electronic idiots like me.

When I have been in a jam and need an answer, Ed has been good to return my email. And with the pinball related answer I needed. You won't get that at Mouser.

I recommend doing connectors on solenoids when doing a playfield swap. Then you are able to move the wiring harness without all of those assemblies dragging from it. Finally , it makes major maintenance of assemblies easier down the road. That's if the game is a keeper. But if it's not a keeper, why would you be doing a playfield swap?

I just do 2 pin connectors except flippers which are 3.

I do this on all my machines I rebuild for the reasons stated (easier to manage and service).

I also use 2 pin 0.093" Molex connectors.

I hate putting two 18 AWG wires into a single 14-20 AWG 0.093" Molex pin. This is a good idea to make it easier to build the connector but there's a drawback that I can see. If you disconnect the solenoid you will break the power wire daisy chain since the daisy chain connection is made at the actual solenoid (in this configuration). If you put the two power wires into a single pin that maintains the daisy chain of the power wire.

You can see this very same issue at the flipper opto boards. If you disconnect the right side the left side does not work. If you disconnect the left side the right side still works. The ground wire daisy chain is made on the right flipper opto board.

I agree it's a pain, but with a bit of care it's certainly do-able to crimp 2 wires in 1 pin.

Can't you just make a jumper wire with the correct Molex pins? It is just for testing purposes, correct?

If you are talking about needing a larger wire for the 14 AWG, when I built aircraft and was certified to build and repair wire harnesses, doubling up two smaller wires to fill a larger connector was per specification. The extra filler wire would just have the extra wire cut off. Installing two wires was allowed. But no more than two wires.

Atari games used a spade connector on coil lugs. Like a spade connector WMS used on the bridges in system 3-7 games. Found them to cause some problems in a middle earth and ended up soldering some in place.

I have NEVER been able to remove a spade connector from the bridges on a WMS 3-11 when I go to add the inline fuses. I'm guessing its just the time/heat that seizes them on there, but sometimes I swear they were welded on lol

I prefer to solder the two wires to a single wire, shrink tube it and then just crimp the single wire to a terminal.

I worked on a laserball in dark ass bar once where the solenoid where losing power. Finally i noticed with the power off I could see blue arcing happening in the backbox when solenoids fired. Traced it to the spade bridge lug connector. Sparks enough I think they could weld together. It happens with relay contacts so probably can with lug connectors. Ended up soldering all eight to both bridges in place. I think i was lazy and just let hot solder flow into the spade lug connectors to get out of there.

I've done that on occasion too, but in this case simply crimping 2 wires onto the same terminal works well too. Really comes down to personal preference.

Duplicate post.

Truth.

That's because some of the terminals were soldered to the bridge rectifiers.