(Topic ID: 292826)

Molex connector supplier

By LORDDREK

2 years ago


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  • 26 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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    #11 2 years ago
    Quoted from BigAl56:

    Big Daddy, https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ Has complete board by board kits with everything you need including the keys.
    Not properly replacing the connector key could be death to a game. When replacing connectors, especially on a power supply, remember to double and triple check the wire positions as you move them to the new connector. Being off by a pin and key is a potentially game fatal exercise.
    My tip is to not replace all the crimps unless they are burned. If there are signs of burning, and there often are, it's best to replace the pin headers too.
    While your at it, is the original NiCad battery still in place? If so remove it and order an NVRAM replacement.

    Regarding connector keys...it was over 15 years ago, but still remember working on a Skateball that was new to me and I had removed one of the connectors on the driver board. Wasn't paying enough attention and after I replaced it, powered up the game and had problems. Someone along the way had repinned the connector, looked like with a pair of vise grips, and didn't replace the connector key. Ouch, lesson learned that day to inspect connectors for keys.

    As far as not replacing crimps, aren't you concerned about the number of connector cycles that a given connector may have already gone through? Especially on the rectifier board. You are already replacing crimps, tools available, the parts are cheap. A typical original connector housing on the rectifier board will show some discoloration, usually will have burn marks. All the wires have to be moved to the new connector housing anyway. Just food for thought.

    1 week later
    #21 2 years ago
    Quoted from BigAl56:

    I feel the risk reward of replacing crimps just for the sake of it is usually not justified. If the game is operating nominally why look to create a problem. Properly crimping is an art and skill that one gets over hundreds of crimps. I just finished rebuilding the power supply crimps on a 45 year old Power Play. After replacing the burned crimps and connector shells the remaining original tinned crimps work perfectly. Not sure how many install remove cycles they've been through, but the original Molex spec we worked off of was in excess of 1000 and I doubt any original game has been close to that number.
    IDC style connectors and shells are another story. Absolutely leave them alone unless you are forced to replace them.

    Interesting perspective. I certainly agree that crimping is a skill. I am sure I have well over 1000 crimps under my belt, and my last hundred are much better quality than my first hundred, even the tools I am using today are better than the ones I used 20 years ago with my first crimp. I always thought, and I am sure to have read it on RGP years ago, that the install remove cycle for tin plated connectors was much lower, say closer to 25 install remove cycles? I normally see little to no need to repin display connectors unless there is some sort of problem. Some of them have never been unmated and have a very tight connection.

    As far as IDC goes, I have had as many problems with those connectors on old Bally as any other connector. Just luck of the draw I guess. Whenever the shells are missing, someone has usually been up to no good. Of course, there is that one IDC connector on the auxiliary lamp board that is always toast.

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