(Topic ID: 239255)

Molasses and rust experiment


By PinJim

26 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    #1 26 days ago

    Time for experiment #2. I want to find a cheap alternative to evaporust. My last experiment was Apple cider vinegar, and I was pleased with the results. This time around I’m trying molasses. Supposedly it has the same active ingredient as evaporust, or so the internet gurus say (so it has to be true, right?).

    I bought a gallon of molasses at Tractor Supply for $8. My first test item is a leg leveler, just because I happen to have one from a current project. I mixed about a half cup of molasses with a few cups of hot water (no, I did not measure). Here are a few pics of the start of the experiment. Note that I did wash the part first with plain water to remove as much crud as possible (first two leg leveler pics are pre-washed).

    I’ll post more after letting it soak overnight.

    I have a few rusty legs that I want to try this on too, but need to get permission from the owner first (I’m restoring it for someone else). Hopefully I can start that experiment this weekend.
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    #2 26 days ago

    Great experiment.

    I didn't know hunters used molasses, how do they normally use it?

    #3 26 days ago

    deer bait..molasses, apples anything to get them to ome to the area regularly, then when hunting season comes..just meet up with the deer looking for sweets and BAM. roast venison for dinner

    #4 25 days ago

    So here are the first results. I little less than 24 hours in the bath, and the rust is gone. Unlike vinegar, the molasses seemed have truly dissolved the rust. I rinsed the item and nothing more. With vinegar, I had to do some very light scrubbing to remove the rust. Could be the concentration level I used with the molasses, not sure.

    I got permission from the owner to try the legs next. I’ll try and get them started sometime later this week.
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    #5 21 days ago

    Some more updates. Here’s the leg leverer after 4 days in the molasses bath.

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    #6 21 days ago

    I started the legs today in a bath of about 33% molasses to 67% water mixture. Here are the legs after they came off the machine. I gave them a very light wash down to knock off the dirt, but nothing more then that.

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    #7 21 days ago

    And here’s my leg tube. It’s only big enough for 2 legs at a time. Somewhere down the road I’ll make a bigger one, maybe.

    I’ll report back after a few days on the progress of this experiment.

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    #8 20 days ago

    Very interesting, following.

    #9 20 days ago
    Quoted from PinJim:

    And here’s my leg tube. It’s only big enough for 2 legs at a time. Somewhere down the road I’ll make a bigger one, maybe.
    I’ll report back after a few days on the progress of this experiment.[quoted image]

    If you make the tube a few inches taller than a single leg and use 4” pvc all 4 legs fit in at once and takes way less fluid to submerge all of them.

    #10 20 days ago

    Interesting. Did not know about this at all.
    Lots of stuff in the internet.
    Here is a nice review:

    https://medium.com/project-lab/molasses-rust-removals-dark-secret-f6811cc218c1

    Looking forward to see the results on the legs.
    They are let rusted than the parts from the video above.
    Thinking the results will be pretty good.

    #11 20 days ago
    Quoted from Meatneck:

    deer bait..molasses, apples anything to get them to ome to the area regularly, then when hunting season comes..just meet up with the deer looking for sweets and BAM. roast venison for dinner

    to me thats not hunting.. hunting is not luring dear into a trap to be killed.. my grandfather would be so disappointed in today's hunters..no skills..

    #12 20 days ago
    Quoted from tscottn:

    to me thats not hunting.. hunting is not luring dear into a trap to be killed.. my grandfather would be so disappointed in today's hunters..no skills..

    I'm not a hunter, but have lived all over the US and have many hunter friends. I grew up in Northern California and Oregon. Hunting was a skill out there. I also lived in Mississippi 15 years. It's all all about tree stands and bait in the south.

    BTW, interesting rust removing techhnique.

    #13 20 days ago
    Quoted from tscottn:

    to me thats not hunting.. hunting is not luring dear into a trap to be killed.. my grandfather would be so disappointed in today's hunters..no skills..

    Baiting is illegal, at least where I live.

    #14 20 days ago

    I pulled the legs out today for a look (sorry, it was too messy for pics). While the surface rust comes off easily, they still need to soak longer. I'm *guessing* they'll soak 4 days like the leg leveler. However, I also want to make sure they aren't turning black, chrome coming off, etc. since they aren't my legs.

    Man, they sure do smell good!

    #15 20 days ago

    Following

    #16 19 days ago

    So here’s the two day update. I pulled both legs today. There’s some good, bad and ugly.

    First, the rust came off for the most part, as seen in the pictures. There is still some rust at the bottom inside of the legs where it’s always the worst. Possibly I could let them go longer and it’d dissolve too. Not sure, and I’m not trying it. What’s good is that all of the rust on the outside came off easily with a quick wipe, as did the rust on the inside of the leg - short of at the very bottom. So it was effective at removing rust.

    Not the bad and ugly. There was some bubbling chrome on on leg, and the chrome came off altogether. So now there’s a bare part on the outside of the leg. I tried to highlight that in one photo. I can’t say if I would have gotten the same result with evaporust. Hard to say.

    The last pictures are of the legs after a scrub with Never Dull, and polished with a rag.

    All told, it works. I’m not happen about the chrome that came off, but again, not sure if the results would have differed with other methods....

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    #17 19 days ago

    Thx for all the pics. Looks like a fine line regarding how long to soak.

    #18 19 days ago

    Maybe so. I suspect any water based product would have the same issue with chrome lifting. Not sure if I was totally clear in my last post, but the chrome was bubbling before the molasses bath. Still, disappointing.

    The second set of legs went in today. They’ll be in a little longer simply because I’m traveling the next couple of days. Didn’t get before pics but they were about the same as the first set. I’ll try and add more pics when they are done since I’m pic happy. But I think the pics tell the whole story...

    #19 19 days ago
    Quoted from Toucanf16:

    Thx for all the pics. Looks like a fine line regarding how long to soak.

    The rust was under the chrome already, I think the same thing would have happened with evaporust.

    Amazing transformation though. I'd take those legs with a small patch of missing chrome over the rusty mess they started out as. The bad one can go on the back.

    #20 19 days ago

    One interesting thing I did note, and I can't say if it's related to the molasses specifically. When I did my vinegar rust experiment, the items flash rusted as soon as I took them out of the vinegar. It was easy enough to clean off, but still, it happened. That didn't happen with the legs today, even after I washed them off in the sink. Not sure if that's molasses related or if it's just the nature of the metal in the legs....

    #21 19 days ago

    Nice job. Your molasses mix will last a long time. Keep adding water.

    Flies and bugs will get trapped in it; it is organic. It can get rank.

    If rust gets under the chrome then the chrome is gone. No fault of the molasses.

    You cannot over soak. But the rust build up at the bottom is difficult to remove completely.

    I have 2 legs soaking now while I am away from home for 2 weeks.

    For chrome legs, I spray gray primer and then a shot of silver. On the outside hit them with a coat or two of clear.

    Once mounted, especially the back legs, they will look pretty good.

    You almost have a life time supply of molasses. Your waste is molasses, iron oxide, and water. No MSDS is needed.

    #22 19 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Nice job. Your molasses mix will last a long time. Keep adding water.
    Flies and bugs will get trapped in it; it is organic. It can get rank.
    If rust gets under the chrome then the chrome is gone. No fault of the molasses.
    You cannot over soak. But the rust build up at the bottom is difficult to remove completely.
    I have 2 legs soaking now while I am away from home for 2 weeks.
    For chrome legs, I spray gray primer and then a shot of silver. On the outside hit them with a coat or two of clear.
    Once mounted, especially the back legs, they will look pretty good.
    You almost have a life time supply of molasses. Your waste is molasses, iron oxide, and water. No MSDS is needed.

    Are you using molasses or something else?

    #23 19 days ago

    I bought a gallon of Evaporust and then discovered the molasses trick. It is easy and cheap and works. My Evaporust is sitting around...somewhere.

    Last fall, I tripped over my cheap Walmart 10 galloncontainer which shattered and I lost all my mix.

    I just scored an old Coleman cooler and will load it up with new mix when winter is gone.

    Short answer: I use molasses only, although I tried electrolysis and liked that. But molasses is easier.

    #24 19 days ago

    Amazing!

    Following.

    #25 17 days ago

    Ok, final update. The last legs turned out better me than the first set, simply due to lack of bubbling chrome. Again, a two day soak. I think they could go a lot longer but they are not mine so I don’t want to risk damage.

    The last pic obviously shows them on the machine. The coin door was rusty too but got a vinegar bath. Don’t mind the mess, it’s been a long day....

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    1 week later
    #26 5 days ago

    Just to continue with the molasses experiment. Since it works so well on rust, I decided to see if it would work on corroded MPUs. Well, the short answer is molasses does not do anything to corrosion due to leaking batteries.

    Attached are the before and after pics of a section of the MPU after soaking in a 1 part molasses to five parts water for five days. Pic with the switches in the picture is the before.

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    #27 5 days ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    see if it would work on corroded MPUs

    I believe you need a strong acid to clean the alkaline corrosion, and a cursory internet search shows molasses is just one above neutral.
    I'd be curious to see what ph value Evaporust has, must be something more of the chemical makeup and not the ph value that creates such drastic results in either case!

    #28 5 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Nice job. Your molasses mix will last a long time. Keep adding water.
    Flies and bugs will get trapped in it; it is organic. It can get rank.
    If rust gets under the chrome then the chrome is gone. No fault of the molasses.
    You cannot over soak. But the rust build up at the bottom is difficult to remove completely.
    I have 2 legs soaking now while I am away from home for 2 weeks.
    For chrome legs, I spray gray primer and then a shot of silver. On the outside hit them with a coat or two of clear.
    Once mounted, especially the back legs, they will look pretty good.
    You almost have a life time supply of molasses. Your waste is molasses, iron oxide, and water. No MSDS is needed.

    My travels are over. This morning I pulled one of the legs I had soaking to see how it was looking.

    Somehow, I managed to delete my "before" pics. What I have left is sort of half-n-half. These are 31" legs and my PVC pipe soaker was only designed for 28" legs so the top part did not get soaked. So you can make a comparison between top and bottom.

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    These legs are bad with lots of rust. The rust is deep and much chrome has been lost.

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    I am going to soak these a little longer. I may have to resort to a rotary wire brush to attack the area down at the leg leveler. And to satisfy my curiosity and the curiosity of others, before I resort to the wire brush I will soak this leg in my Evaporust and try to come up with some sort of comparison.

    As you can see, the chrome is blown on this leg but these are 31" legs I will be using to jack up the back of my pins for steeper pitch. I will hit them with some silver paint and no one will ever notice how roached they are. I only gave $2.50 each for 4 of them and used about 20 cents worth of molasses for all 4.

    #29 5 days ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    I believe you need a strong acid to clean the alkaline corrosion, and a cursory internet search shows molasses is just one above neutral.
    I'd be curious to see what ph value Evaporust has, must be something more of the chemical makeup and not the ph value that creates such drastic results in either case!

    If you want to clean corrosion from circuit boards you want to use toilet bowl cleaner. There is an entire thread on using toilet bowl cleaner for PCBs.

    #30 5 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    If you want to clean corrosion from circuit boards you want to use toilet bowl cleaner. There is an entire thread on using toilet bowl cleaner for PCBs.

    That's what I use on my chrome wheels on my truck.

    #31 5 days ago

    Cottonm4
    I agree the acidic toilet bowl cleaner works best, and that’s what I use to clean corroded MPUs. I just wanted to try this simply out of curiosity, without doing any investigating to see if it had been tried before or if it could even work.

    My curiosity has been satisfied, and my results had been codified.

    #32 5 days ago

    thanks for sharing, will be trying this out for sure

    #33 3 days ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Nice job. Your molasses mix will last a long time. Keep adding water.
    Flies and bugs will get trapped in it; it is organic. It can get rank.
    If rust gets under the chrome then the chrome is gone. No fault of the molasses.
    You cannot over soak. But the rust build up at the bottom is difficult to remove completely.
    I have 2 legs soaking now while I am away from home for 2 weeks.
    For chrome legs, I spray gray primer and then a shot of silver. On the outside hit them with a coat or two of clear.
    Once mounted, especially the back legs, they will look pretty good.
    You almost have a life time supply of molasses. Your waste is molasses, iron oxide, and water. No MSDS is needed.

    Isn't the waste going to be molasses, solid iron (Fe) and water? The hydroxamic acid in the molasses will reduce the iron oxide (rust) to a solid iron with no rust. The hydroxamic acid has changed from hydroxamic acid to whatever hydroxamic acid plus oxygens is. I don't think that this solution will be good forever unless I am missing something because the hydroxamic that has pulled the two oxygens from the rust isnt goung to be able to remove anymore oxygen so it is useless. Only a small amout in the molasses will be neutralized during each treatment. Eventually all of hydroxamic acid will be useless for rust. I'm not sure how many legs That will do but probably quite a few with diminishing returns.

    #34 2 days ago

    I cannot answer your question. Much to my regret, I never studied chemistry. Hell, at this late stage in my life, I have toyed with the idea of getting one of those chemistry kits so I could learn the art/science of chemistry.

    I'm guessing you are correct that a point will be reached that the mix will no longer work. I just have not reached that point yet.

    The molasses you can buy at Tractor Supply costs $8.00 per gallon or .06¢ per ounce. So, to load up a 4" PVC tube with new mix only costs around .20¢ worth of molasses and the time it takes to place the legs in the PVC tube takes about 30 seconds. If after giving the legs a soak and it looks like the mix has gone dead, and since it only takes about 5 minutes to toss the old mix and make some new, I have not really thought about the diminishing returns all that much.

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