(Topic ID: 19065)

Modified Harbor Freight Lift Table

By wizzardz

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 30 hours ago by Williampinball
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    Topic index (key posts)

    9 key posts have been marked in this topic

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    Post #132 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by kungfucop (10 years ago)

    Post #194 Brake release mod Posted by edgewerx (9 years ago)

    Post #196 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by ForceFlow (9 years ago)

    Post #216 elbow mod Instructions Posted by chrisjens2 (9 years ago)

    Post #222 Triangle hinge & bolt mod Instructions Posted by leesparts (8 years ago)

    Post #238 Swivel Tee mod instructions Posted by pinwiztom (8 years ago)

    Post #384 Bimini hinge mod Posted by harryhoudini (6 years ago)

    Post #594 Bimini Cap Mod Instructions Posted by Daditude (5 years ago)

    Post #1036 Adjustment for table not lifting Posted by SirMachismo (1 year ago)


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    #825 3 years ago

    So I went through this whole thread, and all the options are interesting. I tried 3d printing a 45 degree connector to link the stock handle, but the littlest force would snap it in half. I tried to see if PVC would work. 3/4 PVC outside diameter is VERY close, but a bit too tight (1.05"), and then you still have to figure out a coupler between the PVC pipe and the metal tube.

    So after taking some measurements of everything, I discovered that the inside diameter of the chrome tube is very close to the outside diameter of the bottom lift handle socket, like within .1mm. Now that might not sound like a lot, but even after grinding down the powder coating with a wire wheel it was still too thick...
    20200623_171359 (resized).jpg20200623_171359 (resized).jpg

    So out comes the angle grinder. If you're careful and grind in straight lines, you can maintain the round shape fairly well. Few tips
    1. absolutely wear goggles
    2. try to wedge a piece of wood to prop the tube away from the bottom to give you maximum space (so you don't end up grinding the cart base or the cable)
    3. Keep checking fit, make sure you're staying consistent up the tube
    20200623_171422 (resized).jpg20200623_171422 (resized).jpg

    After it seems to fit good, you can use the wire wheel to smooth things out. You may want to also spray the surface with oil so it doesn't end up rusting (if you grind enough you may be able to repaint it)
    20200623_173725 (resized).jpg20200623_173725 (resized).jpg

    Once you fit it over, line up the hole of the tube with the hole in the lift socket. Time to get the drill out so you can make a hole through the pipe so you can put that bolt through.
    20200623_174244 (resized).jpg20200623_174244 (resized).jpg

    After chopping through the middle of the handle with a tubing cutter ($6 at harbor freight), I 3d printed a plastic handle so I don't cut my hand on the sharp edge. You can obviously find stock handles that fit over a 25mm pipe, but I'm cheap (and have a printer)20200623_174701 (resized).jpg20200623_174701 (resized).jpg20200623_174705 (resized).jpg20200623_174705 (resized).jpg20200623_185420 (resized).jpg20200623_185420 (resized).jpg20200623_185431 (resized).jpg20200623_185431 (resized).jpg

    #827 3 years ago

    Decided to do another mod.. obviously since the cart is only 18" wide you need some sort of board to extend the platform (but it needs to be narrow in order to fit under the pinball and slide past the legs).

    So I decided to build pivoting arms. To start off you need a pair of snap ring pliers (HF also has these cheap)
    https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-63845.html

    So that you can remove the two pins towards the side away from the handle. Then you need to drill four 1/4" holes. Each board will be 13" long and still be able to pivot without hitting each other:
    1 (resized).png1 (resized).png

    Mark a round at the end. Use a protractor, or find a bottle that's close. I simply used my chopsaw and made a bunch of cuts (doesn't need to be perfectly round, just close). chop saws are preferred over a jigsaw so your cuts are straight.
    2 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg
    3 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg

    Mark your hole, 1.75" from the sides. Use a 3/4" spade bit to recess down just below 1/2 inch.. Either use a drill press, or use a drill and a pair of calipers:
    4 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg

    Once your recess is good, you need to drill a hole in the center of that. I'm drilling at 1/2" because I bought some 1/2" O.D. nylon spacers from homedepot.. They had a couple that were 1" long but not enough so I had to buy the pairs of 1/2" long:
    5 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg

    Your bushing needs to spin freely on the outside. You are clamping down on the center with a 2" bolt and a washer/nut. Since I didn't have anything larger than a 1/2" bit I had to wiggle it around a little to elongate it slightly.
    6 (resized).jpg6 (resized).jpg

    Now you can slide it under your pin, then pivot the arms out:
    7 (resized).jpg7 (resized).jpg
    8 (resized).jpg8 (resized).jpg

    5 months later
    #896 3 years ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    well, after years of services, one of the wheel on my lift table is splitting H&F does not carry replacement and their answer is "to buy a new one...".
    Any chance someone has a spare? old one broken that a wheel (does not even need to be the whole caster) could be taken from?
    [quoted image]

    wow he's not lying.. this is a list of replacement parts and the caster wheels aren't on it (looks like you can only buy a replacement cylinder)
    https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/parts/In_Stock_Replacement_Parts.pdf

    I measured the wheel.. Hub portion is 40mm wide, 100mm diameter, and has an M10 bolt
    This replacement should work fine (bolt will have .5mm more total clearance because of the metric to imperial conversion)
    https://www.mcmaster.com/2315T527/

    You may want to buy a set of 4 so they match (plus these are rated at 400lbs each). Keep the stock 3 as spares just in case.

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