(Topic ID: 19065)

Modified Harbor Freight Lift Table

By wizzardz

11 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    9 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #132 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by kungfucop (10 years ago)

    Post #194 Brake release mod Posted by edgewerx (9 years ago)

    Post #196 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by ForceFlow (9 years ago)

    Post #216 elbow mod Instructions Posted by chrisjens2 (9 years ago)

    Post #222 Triangle hinge & bolt mod Instructions Posted by leesparts (8 years ago)

    Post #238 Swivel Tee mod instructions Posted by pinwiztom (8 years ago)

    Post #384 Bimini hinge mod Posted by harryhoudini (6 years ago)

    Post #594 Bimini Cap Mod Instructions Posted by Daditude (5 years ago)

    Post #1036 Adjustment for table not lifting Posted by SirMachismo (1 year ago)


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    #195 9 years ago
    Quoted from edgewerx:

    Here is my contribution to the harbor freight pinball mod. I tried two different mods before settling on this one.
    Since this origin of this thread, it appears that the harbor freight lift cart has been updated slightly. Other than being changed from being painted yellow to gray, some of the sizes of the handles, drill holes and release cable have been altered slightly. I found issues in following the modifications found earlier in this thread a little challenging because of these issues.
    1. Hinge Mod
    This mod would have worked well, except for the release cable even after being re-routed was a little too short to fully extend the handle after it was attached. I considered just getting a longer cable from a local bike shop, but the hinges were already showing signs of bending so I decided to attempt the pipe-fitting mod.
    2. Pipe-fitting mod
    After purchasing all of the suggested parts from Lowes and took them home to discover that the threaded ¾ nipple would not fit into the handle receiver on the cart. With some force, i was able to force-thread one of the nipples into the opening though it wasn’t a secure fit. Once I attached the handle it easily came loose on one side. I suppose I could have messed around with this some more and found different pipe sizes to make this work, but I decided to try something different:
    I made a trip to my local bike shop an picked up:
    1. A new brake release cable
    2. A kid’s bike brake lever
    I affixed the brake lever to the pump handle receiver and attached the new cable to the hydraulic release under the cart. The brake cable’s length was about 12 inches.
    Moving around the pinballs after getting them up in the air was easy and I used the machine itself to move it around instead of a handle. There was no worry of the machine coming off of the platform as long as I got it close to centered under the machine
    I was able to move 8 machines out of my old house load the all up into a 16 foot box truck and get them into my new house. Hope this helps someone out there!

    I just bought one last week, and I was having some trouble modding it--there was absolutely no slack in the release cable, and the release handle is now welded to the U-shaped aluminum handle.

    Thanks for the tip--I'll probably have to do something similar, though I may opt to put the brake handle near the end of the U-shaped handle (if the cable doesn't fit in the existing handle). It seems like having the release handle close to the body of the lift would be a bit of a safety issue if the lift comes crashing down for some reason.

    [edit]: After disassembling the release cable, I can probably just get away with replacing the cable with a longer one from a bike shop.

    #196 9 years ago
    Quoted from kungfucop:

    I was originally gonna get some help welding the handle bar like Kneissl's mod but then changed direction and decided I'd like to have my bar be able to lock in place. I also didn't want to alter the original equipment or as little as possible. So here is my take on the HF lift table mod.
    I bought a 1" diameter aluminum pipe and cut two pieces about 4 inches in length. Drilled a hole using a 3/8 drill bit only thru one side so I can mount it as factory.
    Then I bought four 1" diameter aluminum flag pole bracket mounts with the serrated style teeth gear...similar to this one:
    ebay.com link » Flagpole Bracket Silver Cast Aluminum 13 Position Bracket For 1 Diameter Pole

    Quoted from hollywood:

    The best idea (and the cleanest most aesthetically pleasing) idea for a mod came from kungfucop on page three of this thread. I took his idea and was able to do it cheaper. I thought I would show/tell everyone:
    Following his steps: you can replace the Aluminum pipe with 1" conduit/copper/ cheaper pipe I still used the Aluminum), but here is the real savings:
    amazon.com link »
    I JUST received these and they work perfect!!!!! There is no Dremeling the teeth, they fit together perfect! They look cleaner than the "hinges" others have used.

    I ended up going with the flagpole hinge method. It did not require any destructive modifications, however I did need to get a longer release cable (bike brake cable) since there wasn't enough slack in the original cable.

    The parts:

    -1" diamater wooden dowel; Two pieces 5-3/4" in length. (sourced from lowes)

    -Four flag poles: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014SKUN4/

    -50" bike brake sheath/housing and 60" steel cable (sourced from a local bike shop. Note that prices varied wildly, so you may have to shop around. One bike shop had a similar cable for $45 )

    -(optional): Two short metric hex bolts; M8-1.25x16 (found at lowes in the specialty parts drawers). This is to avoid drilling the dowel and so that the bolts aren't sticking out several inches.

    Cost:
    1"x48" dowel: $4
    Flag poles: $35
    Bolts: $1.14
    Brake cable & sheath: $14.45
    Total: $54.59

    The verdict: This was a fairly easy mod that didn't take too long to do--however, if you've never worked on a bike or replaced a brake cable, the difficulty level would probably go up a couple notches. Either way, it was a bit more than I would've liked to have spent. Right now I have the teeth of one pole mount locked up against the flat side of the other pole mount. In this configuration, the little teeth have been popping off if you try to apply force to the handle without loosening the wingnut on bolt holding the hinged joint together. However, it does the job and folds down without any problems.

    20140705164917277-365.jpg20140705164917277-365.jpg20140705165015141-16.jpg20140705165015141-16.jpg20140705165053767-304.jpg20140705165053767-304.jpg20140705165208289-253.jpg20140705165208289-253.jpg

    3 months later
    #203 9 years ago
    Quoted from toasterman04:

    we have Canadian tire up here and their carts are only rated for 330lbs. do you think that is enough??

    I'm not sure I'd trust it without another owner to vouch for it. Some pins can creep up to 350lbs.

    1 week later
    #206 9 years ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    I also bought a long bicycle brake cable to reach when the handle is extended. The problem of course, is that it's too short to fold the handle level, and if you make the cable long enough so the handle folds flat, there is too much slack for it to work with the handle extended.

    The length isn't the problem (bike brake cables are often just as long). You need more tension on the cable between the handle and the release lever. You need to pull it very tightly when you install and fasten it.

    #208 9 years ago
    Quoted from DropTarget:

    I think my problem, is that I used a longer cable, but the old housing, which was too short to maintain tension with slack on it.
    I'll have to buy a new cable housing. Do you recall how long your cable is?
    THX

    My parts list: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/4#post-1758480

    I bought a 50" sheath and 60" steel cable. I ended up trimming the steel cable a bit after installing it.

    If you bought different flag pole mounts, you may need to measure your configuration.

    1 month later
    #214 9 years ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    They look the same. They might have changed the model number.

    There have been slightly different models of the cart. For instance, on one model, the release handle's bracket is removable like a bike brake handle, while on another model, the bracket is welded onto the cart's handle.

    1 month later
    #218 9 years ago
    Quoted from pinnation:

    Remember to toss away that horrific ribbed mat that smells like a charred tire........

    Yeah, the mat just slips around and doesn't actually grip onto anything

    5 months later
    #226 8 years ago
    Quoted from shimoda:

    Another solution for the cable is just to go to a bike shop or other store and get a stand bicycle brake cable with housing, cut down to the size you need. Gave me lots more room to work with.

    Exactly the same thing I did. Bike shops have spools of this stuff.

    Avoid the pre-packaged brake cables, though. They tend to be ridiculously expensive.

    3 months later
    #231 8 years ago
    Quoted from hisokajp:

    I went with the flagpole version and it does look nice! It is a bit woobly since the teeth don't really "bite" due to both side being concave... Also worried about "eating" the outside by screwing tight to make sure the handle don't move...
    I am thinking some large washers may help that but any way to help making the teeth sits better together?
    WP_20150908_17_49_55_Pro.jpg

    The sides with the teeth are in contact with each other, and I don't actually tighten the wingnut very much on mine.

    Quoted from lhammer610:

    An old stale thread, but I am attempting a mod today.
    After looking at several of the mods, I like the look of the 'flag pole' mod by kungfucop. But I am concerned that it will stick up above the lowered table. This would make it impossible to lower the table all of the way down. Is that important?

    The only time I need to bring my cart all the way down is if I'm sliding the pin off the cart and tipping it on its end. In that case, I just take off the handle. However--I used a slightly different flagpole mod that makes that process easier since I just use the round thumb screws to remove the handle, rather than needing to unscrew the bolts. However, with your mod, the handle sits a little lower, so if you need to lower the table to tip the pin up on its end, the handle may actually help you a bit by putting the pin at a slight downward angle.

    Quoted from lhammer610:

    Also, the table as sized would put the entire weight of the pin in the rather flimsy center of the bottom of the box. I have visions of the bottom ripping free and jamming up through the pin. How important is it to put some sort of support so that the lift occurs on the side of the pin box? I see several have made wood attachments to the lift table.
    kungfucop.gif

    I usually put a thick piece of carboard under the pin--usually one of those large moving boxes from home depot. I haven't had a problem so far.

    Quoted from PinballFever:

    What do you all use in place of the ribbed mat?

    You can just throw that mat away. It's useless and smells awful.

    #237 8 years ago
    Quoted from the96stang:

    Mine keeps lowering with any weight on it. Any suggestions?

    Is it still under warranty?

    4 weeks later
    #245 8 years ago
    Quoted from lb1:

    This one would work without the need to grind anything. amazon.com link »

    Wish those were available when I put mine together. Oh well.

    2 months later
    #272 8 years ago
    Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

    Why not just buy an actual pinball dolly, instead of all these "modifications", parts slipping, reverse engineering, etc.? They are still available, unless you need the lift for other items.

    Price, lift height, amount of space used when stored...etc

    With the HF cart, I can raise a cabinet high enough to simply slide it in or out of my vehicle. It sure makes for easy pick-ups.

    Additionally, I can drop the cabinet low enough so I can easily remove the backbox at a manageable height. Also, I can easily tip the game on it's end or tip a game on its end onto the HF cart (when the wheels are locked).

    I always put some thick cardboard on top of the cart to protect the cabinet and to make it easier to slide into my vehicle.

    #274 8 years ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    How did you get the hydraulic line out of the guide on the handle? I tried to disconnect it last night and got nervous that I was gonna break it and stopped. Haha

    It's pretty much the same as a brake cable on a bike. I'm a little fuzzy on the details since it's been a year or two since I worked on mine, but here it goes:

    Screw in the metal knob at each end of the brake cable (the one at the brake handle, and the one under the lift). Then, unfasten the end of the cable from underneath the lift. Next, squeeze the brake handle, remove the wire from the notch in the handle, and pull the wire all the way out of the insulation. Unscrew both metal knobs on the brake cable entirely. Then, pull on the black insulation from the end that is under the cart.

    -1
    #276 8 years ago
    Quoted from flynnibus:

    Please submit your $200 or less 'actual pinball dolly' that is readily available nationwide.. go

    Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

    Not sure why you feel to need to target your opinions at me.
    There was nothing grievous about my comments.

    I read it as more of an open question for anyone to respond to, and not necessarily targeted at your comments.

    #284 8 years ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    I can't remember the last time I was working on my games with my shoes on. But I do live in KY so.......

    I tend to work in my moccasins

    #289 8 years ago
    Quoted from dmbjunky:

    Can the plywood bottom of the cabinet support the weight adequately? I always thought when lifting pinballs you needed to catch the sides.

    I've moved over 30 machines (standard and widebody) and haven't had a problem. Two games had flimsy bottoms that were falling out, so I just used 2x4's to support those.

    #291 8 years ago
    Quoted from pinster68:

    Same here; I moved about the same number of pins on my HF cart. Not a single issue.

    image_(resized).jpeg

    Nice idea using the pipe insulation as padding on the handle. I think I'll add that to mine

    3 weeks later
    #296 8 years ago

    Try contacting the manufacturer about the issue. They may be able to offer a suggestion.

    #298 8 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    There should be a large nut on the release assembly that you adjust 1/4 turn at a time to control the descent.
    Make sure you adjust carefully WITHOUT your fingers in harms way when it comes down too fast, since you will have to test it with a load.

    There is a metal arm on each side of the table's scissor support that can swing down to prevent the table from coming down all the way.

    #302 8 years ago
    Quoted from Electrocute:

    I think I bought the wrong one. It was the 1 ton lift weighing 78 KGS which is about 170lbs. Works great but definately is not portable.

    image_(resized).jpg

    Do you mean the 1000lb cart? 2000lbs is 1 ton.

    The 500lb capacity lift cart weighs about 100lbs--it's much more manageable.

    #306 8 years ago
    Quoted from d0n:

    My F350 truck has a pretty high bed so I had to find a lift that went up higher than most. I ended up with this one from Northern Tool and love it. It feels much higher quality than the harbor freight ones and it lifts 50 inches high! Yes it's twice the price but my back is worth it.
    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200631992_200631992

    44499_1_700x700_(resized).jpg

    Nice find. Looks like it weights 133lbs, so it's still somewhat manageable to handle.

    It does look a little ridiculous going up that high, though

    2 years later
    #454 5 years ago
    Quoted from Hagar55:

    Any idea what this cart is called or where to buy one like this?

    I think that might be a custom cart. I think I remember seeing it posted by someone a couple years ago.

    2 weeks later
    #463 5 years ago

    Just keep in mind that the 500lb lift card weighs about 90lbs, and the 1000lb lift cart weighs about 160lbs.

    7 months later
    #597 5 years ago

    You could also use wooden dowels if you don't want to cut metal. I have dowels in my cart for the flagpole hinge mod, and they've held up fine for several years.

    3 years later
    #1020 1 year ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    You may have to cobble it a bit, but a new cable and handle for bicycle brakes should work. Talk to someone at your favorite bicycle shop.

    I went to a bike shop to get a long section of brake cable. That has worked just fine for my cart.

    2 months later
    #1027 1 year ago
    Quoted from fuseholder:

    Has anyone used this?
    amazon.com link »

    Just by looking at it, the surface area of the platform seems too small to safely balance a full cabinet on its own. However, you might be able to get away with using it just for propping up the back end of the game for putting on the back legs. Although, considering the height of the lift, I'm not sure if you would be saving yourself much effort.

    #1031 1 year ago
    Quoted from CoasterG:

    So I was bringing home a pin the other day and abruptly found out my table won't lift. No hydraulic fluid spill, and pumping the handle does nothing. Think the release may be stuck. I've never repaired anything like this before so any help would be appreciated.

    If you haven't raised it in a while, sometimes you will need to lift it up a little, then give it a few pumps, then it will start going.

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