(Topic ID: 19065)

Modified Harbor Freight Lift Table

By wizzardz

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Ballderdash
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    Topic index (key posts)

    9 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #132 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by kungfucop (10 years ago)

    Post #194 Brake release mod Posted by edgewerx (9 years ago)

    Post #196 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by ForceFlow (9 years ago)

    Post #216 elbow mod Instructions Posted by chrisjens2 (9 years ago)

    Post #222 Triangle hinge & bolt mod Instructions Posted by leesparts (8 years ago)

    Post #238 Swivel Tee mod instructions Posted by pinwiztom (8 years ago)

    Post #384 Bimini hinge mod Posted by harryhoudini (6 years ago)

    Post #594 Bimini Cap Mod Instructions Posted by Daditude (5 years ago)

    Post #1036 Adjustment for table not lifting Posted by SirMachismo (1 year ago)


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    #1067 1 year ago
    Quoted from LORDDREK:

    I was eyeing the 1000lb until I actually saw it with the larger table and had clearance concerns. How is the fit between the legs?

    My early ss Ballys are lined up side-to-side, which necessitates going in from the front with the 1,000lb version. It cuts it close, so care must be taken. I lay two 1 x 4’s (that are slightly wider than the cabinet) perpendicular to the machine to distribute weight evenly, and take the weight burden off the bottom of the game. Also, the handle’s tubing is slightly beefier than the 500lb cart’s is, and I learned the hard way that the chrome boat-hinge modification won’t work. I had to use heavier steel pipe elbows to get the angle needed on the handle.

    Lesson to be learned: for pinball needs, the 500lb cart is all that’s needed here.

    #1069 1 year ago
    Quoted from Desmodromic:

    i went with the 1000lb version as I don't have any old pins and I wanted the additional height to make it easier to load in/out of a truck bed or SUV. The 7" of additional lift and larger load bed (I'll likely use this for other projects as well) was worth the cost/mass to me.

    Yes, I should've qualified that. My games are all in my basement, and that's where the lift cart sleeps, so for my needs, the smaller one would've been the way to go here. For games in a garage or ground level space, I can totally see where the larger cart would be advantageous.

    Also, I'll look forward to seeing the parts from Grainger that you will be using. Thanks!

    #1073 1 year ago
    Quoted from Desmodromic:

    My mistake was assuming that the handlebar on the 1000lb lift cart was 1", like the handle on the 500lb cart. Turns out, it's not. The handle measures right around 28mm or 1.1". So the fittings would not work and I already had a chopped handle.
    The brackets were $8 a set and came in two days from McMaster-Carr, which is awesome. With shipping and tax I'm into it for $27 plus a little bit of my time in addition to the cart itself, and it could have ended much more badly given my premature chop-job on the handlebar.

    That's funny, I did the EXACT same thing with my pipe cutter, thinking the tubing on both carts was the same diameter! I even had my sleek new chrome boat hinges from Amazon at the ready, and I whistled while I worked. Boy, did I feel like a doof when I realized I should assume NOTHING (just like mama said)!

    My solution involved a couple of bulky pipe elbows from Home Depot, which although were a good fit, didn't look nearly as slick as the chrome. They are also angled at 90 degrees, as I couldn't find larger angled ones that fit. I sawed the handle a few inches higher than you did, so pushing and pulling the cart with these elbows attached is doable, but still a little awkward. When not in use, the bottom half of the handle lays flat, while the top portion of the handle stands erect. I'll decline to post photos here, but let's just say I clearly didn't get my degree from M.I.T.

    Anyway, I just ordered a set of the brackets that you used here, and while it'll only make it look quirkier than it already does, it will DEFINITELY make the cart slightly less cumbersome to use. I don't have to use it too often, and (thankfully) not a lot of people have to see it.

    I'd also add that your photos and explanations are outstanding, so thanks for posting. They'll come in handy!!

    Cheers,
    Tom

    #1076 1 year ago
    Quoted from seenev:

    Maybe this is a dumb question, but are these heavy machines ok to lift from the center of the plywood board underneath the game? The board won't break?

    I lay two individual 1 x 4 boards on the bed of the lift cart (roughly 16"-18" apart) so that they stick out on each side of the machine by a couple inches.....just to be safe. It puts the weight burden on the sides of the cabinet rather than the bottom.

    4 months later
    #1102 11 months ago
    Quoted from waymon:

    I use 2 1x6 boards cut where they are about 2 inches overhang on each side. overkill but it makes me feel better.

    I do the exact same thing! Same size boards and all.

    3 months later
    #1115 7 months ago
    Quoted from Nazz26:

    I cut the handle and then purchased a set of stainless steel heavy duty boat Bimini top eye end caps from Amazon. Also purchased the nuts and bolts at a hardware store. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    As a FYI, regarding those boat hinges, they will only work with the 500lb HF lift cart. Ask me how I know. LOL

    Great idea, but the 1000lb cart handle has a slightly larger girth, and the Bimini hinges won't fit.

    3 months later
    #1158 4 months ago

    Yep, mine won't lift at all until I open the handle completely. I'm sure that's due to tension on the wire, but rather than mess with it, I just move the handle slightly to the open position until it stops. Cart works flawlessly then.

    3 weeks later
    #1173 3 months ago
    Quoted from Irishbastard:

    Why are those necessary? I've had my cart for years, moved uncountable pins, never had any issues. Also, is your handle stuck in the position? If so, must take up a lot of space, no? My handle folds flat for storage.

    Ditto. I use a couple 1 x 4's laid on the rubber mat, and the machine doesn't budge while raised. Of course, it's in a controlled indoor environment, and not moving on gravel or anything rough, but even when crossing a carpet bump, the things won't move.

    2 months later
    #1207 27 days ago

    Expires April 11, 2024

    IMG_7624 (resized).jpegIMG_7624 (resized).jpeg
    1 week later
    #1210 19 days ago
    Quoted from undrdog:

    Here’s my mods.
    If I had it to do over again, I’d raise the pivot point so the handle could lay flat.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Grab a coupla binimi boat hinges, and a cheap pipe cutter, and ya still can!

    https://www.amazon.com/Keehui-Connector-Stainless-Coupling-Hardware/dp/B07W4HMMY1/ref=asc_df_B07W4HMMY1/

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