(Topic ID: 19065)

Modified Harbor Freight Lift Table


By wizzardz

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 667 posts
  • 243 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by cad-kid
  • Topic is favorited by 280 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic

    Post #132 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by kungfucop (6 years ago)

    Post #194 Brake release mod Posted by edgewerx (5 years ago)

    Post #196 Flagpole hinge mod Instructions Posted by ForceFlow (5 years ago)

    Post #216 elbow mod Instructions Posted by chrisjens2 (4 years ago)

    Post #222 Triangle hinge & bolt mod Instructions Posted by leesparts (4 years ago)

    Post #238 Swivel Tee mod instructions Posted by pinwiztom (3 years ago)

    Post #384 Bimini hinge mod Posted by harryhoudini (2 years ago)

    Post #594 Bimini Cap Mod Instructions Posted by Daditude (5 months ago)


    Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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    #212 4 years ago

    They look the same. They might have changed the model number.

    6 months later
    #224 4 years ago

    I finally solved my release issue. I never cut down the handle so the release cable was too short to work effectively. I solved the problem this way:

    I pulled the cable completely out and threaded it through the release mech backwards.
    I then pulled the cable over the base until it reached the back of the unit.
    I made a hand sized loop in the cable to make a handle and twisted the rest of the cable to hold the handle.

    I still need to get a small piece of pvc and cut a channel in it to make the handle easier to grip. This will also allow me to push down on the handle with my foot.

    Not the best solution but I am happy with it.

    3 years later
    #530 6 months ago

    finally ditched the fence hinges and went with bimini caps. Sorry for the foggy pics. I need to novus 2 my phone lens again2019-01-29 17.36.20 (resized).jpg
    2019-01-29 17.36.30 (resized).jpg

    Now I need to do something about the release cable

    1 month later
    #545 5 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    What is the "bimini" route?

    amazon.com link »

    2019-01-29 17.36.30 (resized).jpg

    #548 5 months ago

    I cut off 3 inches from the handle and put it in the bottom of the hinge. I used bolts with lock nuts and put a washer in between the tabs. I live it so far

    #550 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Any specific size with the bolts and nuts? Got my bimini caps and lift ready to go!

    I just went to Ace with the caps and got a good fit. I don't remember the size

    #560 5 months ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    I have the bimini mod with the bike quick release and am not a fan of the quick releases. They are too hard to get tight enough to stay tight and come loose easily. I will be replacing them with a simple bolt and nylock nut with washers. Hopefully it'll stay tight that way. Also. make sure to LockTite the set screws in the bimini caps, they come loose as well.

    I left mine loose enough so I can fold the handle flat on the table when I slide it under a machine. My handle has always been hinged and I prefer it to fixed. The hinged handle makes it easier to slide under the center of mass the first time

    #562 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    What do you mean by your handle being hinged? Do you loosen the nut to unlock and store it, then retighten to raise it?

    I only tightened the lock nut to the minimum resistance. I can balance the handle straight up if I like but it moves freely through 180 degrees.IMG_20190309_104720092 (resized).jpg

    Note: the washer is between the 2 flanges it doesn't touch the cap when installed just rides between the flanges. I don't know if this is necessary but I didn't want the flanges rubbing on each other.

    #566 5 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    I am going to try the bimini cap method.
    I have found them in 1 inch diameter...but is that the inner diameter or outer diameter that needs to be 1 inch?
    Also, what size is the "eyelet"? I need to know which size bolt to get.

    1 inch should be the inner diameter. Sorry I don't know the bolt size. I just took a cap to Ace with me

    #571 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    One pair needs to be 3/4", and the other 1". I took them to my local hardware shop this weekend, explained what I was attempting, using photos kindly provided on here, and he selected parts for me. I'll post a photo of what he selected in a few minutes.

    I did this first but was not able to fold the handle down. By cutting 3 inches off the handle and putting it in the cart. I used 2 pairs of 1" to make a hinge in the handle

    #573 5 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    So....do i need 4 caps at 1 inch inner diameter...or do i need to get 2 at 1 inch and 2 at 3/4 inch inner diameter?

    This is what I did. The 3/4 I checked caps did not go into the mounts deep enough. I was worried they would pull out during use.

    #574 5 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    This is what I did. The 3/4 I checked caps did not go into the mounts deep enough. I was worried they would pull out during use.

    So 4 1" caps

    #577 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Would this work okay for cutting the handle?
    https://m.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-62243.html
    What did you use the dewalt, are they hex wrenches, for? And the self lock, what was that for?
    I moved my pin with the lower handle in the meantime. Kinda forgot how sloped cabinets are, and was a bit freaked out raising it with the back end coming off the ground so much later.

    I used something very similar. Yes hex wrench's for securing the caps. Self lock? Are you talking lock nut or the quick release some guys are using?

    Quoted from wesman:

    I went to a local hardware store. The old guys there know their stuff, and are always happy to help! Though....he forgot one nut for the one set.
    I might go the 4 1" caps afterall. Did you guys need cut the three inches off, then make that into a smaller one inch or so piece to fit into the base?
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    The 3" piece goes.in the base.

    #582 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    This may seem dumb, but if 3" is cut out, then replaced at the bottom, how does that effect the cable being short? Added in with the extra bimini length. Or do you cut 6" off, then that in half?

    no 3" off each side. You could also remove the total height of the caps. I had already destroyed my cable so I replaced it with a new one when I did this.

    #583 5 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    Agreed.
    I am in the process of ordering parts for it, and then i will complete the mod. It seems like everyone just tells a piece of the onfo, but not the whole thing.
    Once finished, I will detail the exact cut length, bolt sizes, etc to make my post the one stop for info.

    A tutorial on the process would be appreciated. It could be added to the topic index.

    #585 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    I'm going to make a crude drawing at work today. When I read people say, cut 3" off, I thought that was the bottom, but obviously it's 3"...out...of the pipe, from maybe 2" up from the base.

    yeah 3 inches off the bottom of the handle from each side.

    #588 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    If it's right from the bottom, aren't you then losing access to the hole for the bolt to be screwed back in to be secured? I figured it was three inches removed, but just up from where the handle pops out of the base of the cart.

    The bolt goes back through the hole or against the tube. You can see it in the image I uploaded above: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/12#post-4876506

    Here's a quick drawingCart Hinge (resized).png

    #590 5 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    So I'm guessing you didn't place the original pipe into the base, like post #486 here?

    I guess there are so many variants, it's tough to see what parts fit in where, depending on the mod.
    Thanks for the awesome sketch!

    Yeah that's the 3" in the drawing. It goes into the base so the cap has something to attach too

    1 week later
    #604 5 months ago

    Used my cart to load in at comic con yesterday and lost 2 set screws on the handle. I replaced them with #6 metric hex head bolts 3/4". They were 1.29 each at ACE. I was able to really bear down on these and get a great grab on the handle. I don't like the idea of using loctite but I will if these come loose.

    1 week later
    #615 4 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    I ordered from Amazon, not the ebay variety.
    I think Cheddar was having these issues too, suggested Loctite. It's not the caps themselves, just the teenie tiny wee screws in the caps.

    I replaced the screws with little bolts. No loctite or drilling. The bolt allowed me to really bear down on them.

    1 month later
    #654 84 days ago
    Quoted from pindude80:

    I am going to pick up one of these lifts but have a question. When doing the bimini caps do you tighten the bolts for whatever angle you want the handle at or does the handle just "free float" when you are using it?

    I left mine loose so I can lay the handle flat in storage under a machine

    #656 81 days ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    Also, make sure to either LockTite or replace the grub screws that hold the posts in the bimini caps. I haven't yet and mine come loose all the time.

    I replaced mine with allen bolts for this exact reason

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