Melbourne, FL
Lately, Harbor Freight has been giving out 25% off coupons that are good for 1-1-13 only.
(Topic ID: 19065)
Quoted from OuttaSpace:Lately, Harbor Freight has been giving out 25% off coupons that are good for 1-1-13 only.
don't suppose you have a link for this coupon
Quoted from Prmailers:Try this....
http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?main=true&week=0113&campaign=a&page=25off.html&single=true&cust=99999999999&keycode=1002
Got it in an email from them tonight.
Nice, thanks!
Quoted from Prmailers:Try this....
http://widgets.harborfreight.com/wswidgets/common/displayCoupon.do?main=true&week=0113&campaign=a&page=25off.html&single=true&cust=99999999999&keycode=1002
Got it in an email from them tonight.
Thanks!! I also got an email today.
The problem I see with most of these configurations is that when you lower the cart all the way the handle risers hit the cab on the game.
I have moved hundreds of games with mine bringing it to shows and in the shop and have no use for the handle.
If you are working on a game on the cart you are tripping over it or whacking the cab with it and it is in general just a PIA.
I got rid of it and made a foot operated release out of an old shooter rod.
I need to take the Sawzall and hack the handle mounts off of it to eliminate those ankle biters.
cartmod_008.jpg
1 month later
Bump!
It looks like this table might have changed..... for the better.
check out the link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-lift-table-94822.html
Is it me or did they change the handle mount configuration to something like what loren did? I guess I'll go down there and check it out, just looking for some quick feedback before I make the trip.
It was pretty easy to modify before....
I thought the same thing until I checked out the 1000 lb lift table and the picture is the same, thinking HF made a mistake. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-69148.html
Could always see what HF says when you show them the 500 lb one looks like the 1000 lb one. I'm looking at buying one too before the sale ends at end of Feb, may go to a HF store this week.
I'm going to the store in about 30 minutes. I don't care either way, old design or new design I don't have to mod.
I just don't want a new design that is a huge pain in the ass to mod.
I plan on just buying the hinges and doing that.
PS. Check the owners manual link with the 500 lb lift table, it shows the red painted one, table did not change, HF made a mistake with the picture. Now, just try to convince HF to sell the 1000 lb pictured one for the 500 lb price ....
I've have 2 of the yellow ones. Maybe a good idea to test the lift before taking home. I had to exchange both. One the lift table wouldn't rise and the other the lift table would lower on its own with some weight on it.
I thought of going with the heavier duty version they had but the lift table was too wide.
Definitely not an ideal pinball lift. The handle gets in the way and the wheels are too small.
I'm finally at a computer with the pictures and have a minute so here goes...
I have a Larin lift table that I got at Farm & Fleet (a midwest hardware superstore type place in Wisconsin) years ago. I made a modification that works as a handle & helps setting up. It seems scary at first, but works really well. You have to put the front legs on the pin to give yourself leverage when tipping. It's made of square tubing, a flat piece to serve as a lip to hold the game and two barn hinges. Maybe with a little tweaking, it could be adapted to the Harbor Freight table.
I'll have it at the MGC again if anyone wants to check it out.
897571-R1-029-13_013.jpg 897571-R1-033-15_015.jpg 897571-R1-025-11_011.jpg
The main reason I like having the handle on is when I am going over a bump or door threshold the pin will slide around on the lift and I don't want to push it off the lift by accident. But it still sucks as you all bent over pulling on a handle that is a foot from the ground. But for the price I can't complain. If I move pins everyday I would find something better, but for ~$130 I have gotten my moneys worth.
But I would agree that if you are not moving pins over any kind of rough surface, just lose the handle it will be in the way most of the time.
1 week later
Quoted from tullster:I'm finally at a computer with the pictures and have a minute so here goes...
I have a Larin lift table that I got at Farm & Fleet (a midwest hardware superstore type place in Wisconsin) years ago. I made a modification that works as a handle & helps setting up. It seems scary at first, but works really well. You have to put the front legs on the pin to give yourself leverage when tipping. It's made of square tubing, a flat piece to serve as a lip to hold the game and two barn hinges. Maybe with a little tweaking, it could be adapted to the Harbor Freight table.
I'll have it at the MGC again if anyone wants to check it out.
I have seen and used this in person and it is absolutely awesome.
1 month later
Quoted from pinwillie:This is temporary as i plan on doing loren3233's mod. (hope you don't mind Loren)
Quoted from loren3233:I do not mind at all pinwillie.
I finally got around to re modding my lift table. Thanks for sharing loren 
2013-04-22_17.31.21.jpg 2013-04-22_17.31.36.jpg
I made a hinge with a few pieces of pipe. Cart needs no modification that would void the warranty. All I had to do was drill 2 holes through the handle (just take the existing hole and go straight through). I will get pictures.
Quoted from pinwillie:I finally got around to re modding my lift table. Thanks for sharing loren
Looks good Willie, maybe I will see it in action sometime when you wheel your Taxi out to my car after buying it. 
Quoted from newmantjn:Here is what I did. See if you guys can stay with me on this, it gets complicated:
1. Stand on cart.
2. Push on handle until it is bent as much as you want.
I like this approach and this is what I did to mine, costs nothing and takes 5 minutes and works like a champ.
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:I like this approach and this is what I did to mine, costs nothing and takes 5 minutes and works like a champ.
didn't the handle kink when you bent it?
Quoted from newmantjn:Here is what I did. See if you guys can stay with me on this, it gets complicated:
1. Stand on cart.
2. Push on handle until it is bent as much as you want.
Did you wear socks? I can see a youtube sensation trying it that way.. 
Quoted from JoeJet:Did you wear socks? I can see a youtube sensation trying it that way..
He said kink, not kinky. 
Quoted from Patofnaud:He said kink, not kinky.
that would make it slippery
I just bought one of the Harbor Freight dollys and made some mods to it.
When I put the large hinges on the bars I didn't like how unstable they felt. I redrilled a hole in the hinge so that it also wouldn't stretch the release cable as tightly. What do you guys think?
Quoted from 0geist0:didn't the handle kink when you bent it?
Didn't kink on me, but I sure as hell couldn't bend it just standing on it 
I literally had to lie on my back on cart and leg press handle to get it started and bent. It's amazing how much better it is now.
Vancouver, BC
I was originally gonna get some help welding the handle bar like Kneissl's mod but then changed direction and decided I'd like to have my bar be able to lock in place. I also didn't want to alter the original equipment or as little as possible. So here is my take on the HF lift table mod.
I bought a 1" diameter aluminum pipe and cut two pieces about 4 inches in length. Drilled a hole using a 3/8 drill bit only thru one side so I can mount it as factory.
Then I bought four 1" diameter aluminum flag pole bracket mounts with the serrated style teeth gear...similar to this one:
ebay.com link: FLAGPOLE BRACKET SILVER CAST ALUMINUM 13 POSITION BRACKET FOR 1 DIAMETER POLE
Separated them from the base and mated the pole mounts together so it can swivel or lock down with the wing nut with 13 variable angles. I had to grind down the teeth slightly so it would mate better since it was only supposed to be mated with the base (ie. teeth on the base side is concave and teeth on the pole mount side convex). Also cut the length on one side of the flag pole mount down a bit so that when the handle bar is folded down, it isn't resting super high.
Then just pop the mount onto the 1" pipes and insert original handle bar and tighten everything up. I did find there wasn't enough slack for the release cable even when adjusted to the max length so I'll need to make a slight extension. I may decide to paint the flag pole mounts later to match the lift table dolly but for now it works fine.
Doing it this way, I didn't need to alter the original lift or handle-bar and the mod is fully reversible.
Equipment
=======
1" aluminum pole - Home Depot
Flag pole bracket - locally from store that sells flag pole stuff or online. "Valley Forge" may be the brand you want if you are looking for the serrated teeth style. The ones I got are generic and made in China...LOL.
Two 1/4 washers for the wing nut side - Home Depot
Drill + Drill bits
Dremel with cutting wheel (or pipe cutter) and also small grinding wheel.
Adjustable wrench and socket set for loosening handle bar release cable thingy
Quoted from kungfucop:I was originally gonna get some help with getting my bar welded as Kneissl mod but then changed direction and decided I'd like to have my bar be able to lock in place. I also didn't want to alter the original equipment or as little as possible. So here is my take on the HF lift table mod.
I bought a 1" diameter aluminum pipe and cut two pieces about 4 inches in length. Drilled a hole using a 3/8 drill bit only thru so I can mount it as factory.
Then I bought four 1" diameter aluminum flag pole bracket mounts with the serrated style teeth gear...similar to this one:
Ebay link
Separated them from the base and mated the pole mounts together so it can swivel or lock down with the wing nut with 13 variable angles. I had to grind down the teeth slightly so it would mate better since it was only supposed to be mated with the base (ie. one teeth on one side is concave and other side convex). Also cut the length on one side of the flag pole down a bit so that when the handle bar is folded down, it isn't resting super high.
Then just pop the mount into the 1" pipes and insert original handle bar and tighten everything up. I did find there wasn't enough slack for the release cable even at when adjusted to the max length so I'll need to make a slight extension. I may decide to paint the flag pole mounts later to match the lift table dolly but for now it works fine.
Doing it this way, I didn't need to cut or drill any additional holes into the original lift or handle-bar.
This is AWESOME! Gonna get those for my table tonight! Thanks.
Quoted from Jodester:I just bought one of the Harbor Freight dollys and made some mods to it.
When I put the large hinges on the bars I didn't like how unstable they felt. I redrilled a hole in the hinge so that it also wouldn't stretch the release cable as tightly. What do you guys think?
I put some smaller hinges on mine but with this type of mod it will not feel rock solid either way. Always take your time be careful and don't put too much force on he handle and it will be fine. I really like the having the ability to fold them all the way down with the hinge and also all the way to the ground if I need them out of my way during loading.
Does your black rubber mat stink?
I had to throw mine away it stunk like cosmoline and ass. I was almost convinced it was compressed bong resin it stunk so bad.
Does your black rubber mat stink?
I had to throw mine away it stunk like cosmoline and ass. I was almost convinced it was compressed bong resin it stunk so bad.
LOL!
I picked up the cosmoline but missed the ass, probably because I am around it so much I am used to it.
Mine went on the bench to do boardwork on and I did notice I get a buzz if I burn it.
Finally finished my handle mod.
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Does your black rubber mat stink?
I had to throw mine away it stunk like cosmoline and ass. I was almost convinced it was compressed bong resin it stunk so bad.
Yeah, the mat stunk like burnt wood and cedar. At first I thought Harbor Freight stored the boxes in a backroom full of some weird potpourri or wood chips because even the unopened box smelled horrendous. I was worried maybe the hydraulic cylinder was leaking oil but it is just the smell from the mat. Now my car and half my house smells like it...LOL.
Quoted from kungfucop:I was originally gonna get some help welding the handle bar like Kneissl's mod but then changed direction and decided I'd like to have my bar be able to lock in place. I also didn't want to alter the original equipment or as little as possible. So here is my take on the HF lift table mod.
I bought a 1" diameter aluminum pipe and cut two pieces about 4 inches in length. Drilled a hole using a 3/8 drill bit only thru one side so I can mount it as factory.
Then I bought four 1" diameter aluminum flag pole bracket mounts with the serrated style teeth gear...similar to this one:
Ebay link
Separated them from the base and mated the pole mounts together so it can swivel or lock down with the wing nut with 13 variable angles. I had to grind down the teeth slightly so it would mate better since it was only supposed to be mated with the base (ie. teeth on the base side is concave and teeth on the pole mount side convex). Also cut the length on one side of the flag pole mount down a bit so that when the handle bar is folded down, it isn't resting super high.
Then just pop the mount onto the 1" pipes and insert original handle bar and tighten everything up. I did find there wasn't enough slack for the release cable even when adjusted to the max length so I'll need to make a slight extension. I may decide to paint the flag pole mounts later to match the lift table dolly but for now it works fine.
Doing it this way, I didn't need to alter the original lift or handle-bar and the mod is fully reversible.
Equipment
=======
1" aluminum pole - Home Depot
Flag pole bracket - locally from store that sells flag pole stuff or online. "Valley Forge" may be the brand you want if you are looking for the serrated teeth style. The ones I got are generic and made in China...LOL.
Two 1/4 washers for the wing nut side - Home Depot
Drill + Drill bits
Dremel with cutting wheel (or pipe cutter) and also small grinding wheel.
Adjustable wrench and socket set for loosening handle bar release cable thingy
Do you have a pic of what it looks like ground down? Putting mine together now. Not sure how much or exactly where I should grind. Thanks!
Quoted from Toasterdog:Didn't kink on me, but I sure as hell couldn't bend it just standing on it I literally had to lie on my back on cart and leg press handle to get it started and bent. It's amazing how much better it is now.
I simply rolled mine out to the back of my truck,put the opposite end of the handle,under truck where trailer hitch is, and pulled back on handle.She bent real nice, and works WAYYY better now.
Also threw the mat in a back corner ,outside, and it STILL freakin stinks!
Yep the mat always stinks. Just throw it out unless you keep your lift table in a separate building that you don't work or play in.
So just to give a contrast to all of the very fancy looking handle methods. Here is mine, works very well. Yes, that is rusty old 3/4" plumbing pipe I had laying around. I would not have used wing nuts in hindsight but they have not bothered me enough to dig into my loose hardware box to find two nuts to jamb against each other to lock them onto the bolt or a nylock nut. You must use the washer between the pipe and handle or things don't swing smoothly.
Fair warning to anyone following my example. 3/4" plumbing pipe may not fit without modification. I used some 50+ year old US made pipe that I had laying around and it needed a quick pass on the lathe to fit, but most of that was the rust coming off. Much of the newer steel pipe from China and Mexico has a thinner wall, so it may fit without modification. Normally the hardware stores have short sections of this type of pipe left over from longer pieces that were cut and threaded that they will give you, pipe sections less than a one foot in length are pretty useless and unsaleable.
Regardless of what you do(or don't do) to modify the handle, get yourself a lift table if you don't have one. They are a bargain for how useful they are with this hobby.
Quoted from tracelifter:Does your black rubber mat stink?
I had to throw mine away it stunk like cosmoline and ass. I was almost convinced it was compressed bong resin it stunk so bad.LOL!
I picked up the cosmoline but missed the ass, probably because I am around it so much I am used to it
Somehow I missed this comment the first pass thru this thread. Are you a proctologist?
Quoted from kungfucop:I was originally gonna get some help welding the handle bar like Kneissl's mod but then changed direction and decided I'd like to have my bar be able to lock in place. I also didn't want to alter the original equipment or as little as possible. So here is my take on the HF lift table mod.
I bought a 1" diameter aluminum pipe and cut two pieces about 4 inches in length. Drilled a hole using a 3/8 drill bit only thru one side so I can mount it as factory.
Then I bought four 1" diameter aluminum flag pole bracket mounts with the serrated style teeth gear...similar to this one:
Ebay link
Separated them from the base and mated the pole mounts together so it can swivel or lock down with the wing nut with 13 variable angles. I had to grind down the teeth slightly so it would mate better since it was only supposed to be mated with the base (ie. teeth on the base side is concave and teeth on the pole mount side convex). Also cut the length on one side of the flag pole mount down a bit so that when the handle bar is folded down, it isn't resting super high.
Then just pop the mount onto the 1" pipes and insert original handle bar and tighten everything up. I did find there wasn't enough slack for the release cable even when adjusted to the max length so I'll need to make a slight extension. I may decide to paint the flag pole mounts later to match the lift table dolly but for now it works fine.
Doing it this way, I didn't need to alter the original lift or handle-bar and the mod is fully reversible.
Equipment
=======
1" aluminum pole - Home Depot
Flag pole bracket - locally from store that sells flag pole stuff or online. "Valley Forge" may be the brand you want if you are looking for the serrated teeth style. The ones I got are generic and made in China...LOL.
Two 1/4 washers for the wing nut side - Home Depot
Drill + Drill bits
Dremel with cutting wheel (or pipe cutter) and also small grinding wheel.
Adjustable wrench and socket set for loosening handle bar release cable thingy
Totally Awesome Great job
Quoted from Shoot_Again:I like the storage of this cart better than mine. And those must be the largest ape hangers I have ever seen.
More like a roll cage!
Quoted from Modman:Install the largest wheels on your cart that will not hit each other when you swivel around to back up.
I laid my handle down flat so it will slide completely under the play field for a balanced load.Also stores nicely that way. You can also lift it up on the front two wheels for better mobility in tight spaces.
It will also go 'off road'
I got a cart from Northern tool. It has just a plain tube for a handle, the release valve is a small foot pedal attached to the bottom, so nothing is attached to the handle. When moving a pin, just remove the handle. Works great.
Quoted from Turboderf:Totally Awesome Great job
Thanks for the props.
Quoted from toro1966:Can't seem to get the two halves of the pole holders to come together right. Got a pic of how you ground one down to help it mate up with the other ?
Not sure if you can really see it from the photos, but basically I just took my dremel grinding attachment and shaved a bit in the center and the teeth to make it "concave". You want to try to make it look like the teeth on the base attachment side. Refer to 2nd photo - excuse the crude photoshopping, but I hope you get the idea. I didn't go crazy and take it down really far in case I messed it up. But I'm sure the more you take off, the nicer the two sides will mate up with each other. The important thing is that you need to grind down the center ring area because that is the section preventing the two halves from mating. If you have a drill press or some other stationary tool you may be able to grind it more evenly. Since I did it with a hand tool, I went a bit on the conservative side.
Here is what I did for my modification, I used 1/2 pipe with unions, added removable wood supports utilizing wing nuts, and it all folds up nice and rolls/fits under one of my pins..
Mick
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