I’ve been waiting and waiting for a coupon as they hardly have these one off ones anymore and finally they have one and my local and surrounding area locations are out of stock and you can’t order online and pickup at store for free, oh well, maybe next New Year.

I used it to buy the 1000lb version earlier today at my local store, worked no problem for me.

Looking to pick one of these up today with the 25% off coupon. How hard is it to get it up and down stairs (I want to store it in the basement when not in use)?

I thought the same but had them scan at register. It went thru so all good. Coupon works!

I was eyeing the 1000lb until I actually saw it with the larger table and had clearance concerns. How is the fit between the legs?

Just called and checked with my local store and it qualifies for the discount

It is very heavy. Don't think you can carry it up and down stairs by yourself.

I bought the smaller cart because the 1000lb one doesn't fit between legs of wedge heads.

I have carried up and down stairs myself, not light for sure but more awkward than anything.

Yeah I just pulled the box out of my vehicle and it’s not something I’d want to move up and down a set of stairs. Just park it under a vacant machine like a every other pinball hobbyist.

Well since I have a couple that was a good play then thanks!

I also just bought one with the coupon.
Thanks!

Anyone have luck with a HF two wheel hand truck? Recommendations? I need pneumatic tires for rolling around the side yard.

Just checked the website. The smaller 500lb lift table weighs 90lbs. Would be too heavy and awkward for me to carry up and down stairs.

I carry mine up/down my basement stairs to bring to the garage, it's awkward and heavy, but doable. I would never buy the 1000lb one, zero need. I've had over 500lbs on mine without issue, thing is a lifesaver.

Code just worked for me in store! Thanks for sharing.

My early ss Ballys are lined up side-to-side, which necessitates going in from the front with the 1,000lb version. It cuts it close, so care must be taken. I lay two 1 x 4’s (that are slightly wider than the cabinet) perpendicular to the machine to distribute weight evenly, and take the weight burden off the bottom of the game. Also, the handle’s tubing is slightly beefier than the 500lb cart’s is, and I learned the hard way that the chrome boat-hinge modification won’t work. I had to use heavier steel pipe elbows to get the angle needed on the handle.

Lesson to be learned: for pinball needs, the 500lb cart is all that’s needed here.

I found this out the hard way too. After I had already cut the handlebar. I have a hinged joint coming from Grainger on Wednesday that should work, will share that info here and a part number if it works out the way I hope it will. The handle bar on the current 1000lb is quite beefy (wall thickness) that made my tubing cutter cry, so I ended up doing it with a hacksaw.

i went with the 1000lb version as I don't have any old pins and I wanted the additional height to make it easier to load in/out of a truck bed or SUV. The 7" of additional lift and larger load bed (I'll likely use this for other projects as well) was worth the cost/mass to me.

Yes, I should've qualified that. My games are all in my basement, and that's where the lift cart sleeps, so for my needs, the smaller one would've been the way to go here. For games in a garage or ground level space, I can totally see where the larger cart would be advantageous.

Also, I'll look forward to seeing the parts from Grainger that you will be using. Thanks!

The larger carts are good because they can lift the games incredibly high. My shop is pretty crowded and with the smaller one, the games were constantly bumping into stuff, getting feet caught on wires, etc.

So I have both, I like the versatility and the use the smaller one to set up games, and the larger one to move them around the shop. The larger carts are incredibly heavy so - like close to 200 pounds - so it will never be leaving the shop.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/10#post-4520475

I posted this 4 years ago, but this is what links said:

This is the 1000 lb lift. I drilled out stop pins and added removable pins. Now handle can away from cart to go under machine.

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So, I wanted the 1000lb lift table as I only have modern pins and don't mind that it's tight fit and heavy as I will likely use it to unload from a truck or van, etc and wanted the extra reach.

My mistake was blowing it on the old adage "measure twice, cut once." I got my 1000lb table on the 25% off coupon, brought it home and promptly hacksawed off the bottom 4-1/2" of the legs. I had a set of the one-direction-folding locking Bimini fittings that others have used in this thread. Figuring that since the handle folds forward and locks in the up position, these oriented properly would give me the same functionality in the "pull" direction and let me slide under the machine.

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My mistake was assuming that the handlebar on the 1000lb lift cart was 1", like the handle on the 500lb cart. Turns out, it's not. The handle measures right around 28mm or 1.1". So the fittings would not work and I already had a chopped handle. If I had NOT chopped it, I'd have done what Spiderpin and a couple others have done and just drilled out the forward stop and put a hitch pin in that spot.

But, since I already cut down the handle, I needed another solution. There are Chinese suppliers that make 30mm bimini fittings, but nobody that I could find that makes 28mm fittings. I considered ordering 30mm fittings via Alibaba to the tune of around $50 and then just 3D printing myself some liner/spacers to make them fit. But I came across these brackets on McMaster-Carr (sorry, not Grainger) and gave them a try:

https://www.mcmaster.com/2534T33/

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These were a touch small on the ID, but with a bit of effort with a file and a flex hone, I got them to work. I used the "cap" portion on the upper part of the handlebar and the collar on the short section of handlebar at the bottom. The cap portion went on no issue. The collar portion is actually two pieces that keyway together. I ended up filing off some bumps on the ID of the fitting that I think are there to help bite into the material they clamp onto, and although I'm not sure it helped. I ran a 1-1/8" flex hone in the bore to help clean it up, but that probably wasn't really necessary. Then I assembled the parts and used the bolts on the collar portion to pull it into place. Here's how it came out:

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Some closer pics of the brackets I used in position:

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I'm pretty happy with this solution. Since it only added a slight offset in the position on the handlebar, and not any more or less rise to the release lever, the factory cable routing for the release is unaffected. In the forward position, the handlebar cams just over center and stands nicely on its own, so it's not "floppy" when it's in the up position. It also allows me to push it forward like a "normal" flat cart:

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If I had it to do over again, and knew that I'd be using these brackets, I'd have cut the handlebar at 4" instead of 4.5" where I have it cut now, so that the bracket cleared the load bed and would allow the handlebar to simply lay flat on the bed.

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The brackets were $8 a set and came in two days from McMaster-Carr, which is awesome. With shipping and tax I'm into it for $27 plus a little bit of my time in addition to the cart itself, and it could have ended much more badly given my premature chop-job on the handlebar.

I'll put a couple tubing plugs in the ends of the stubby handlebar sections just to finish it off. I would have preferred the 30mm locking bimini hinge solution if only because it looks cleaner and I like the idea of a physical lock on the position of the handlebar. But the parts would have taken much longer to get here and the cost would be approx. double for the special versions I'd need to source out of China. I'll stick with these for now and maybe if I get ambitious I'll lop another 1/2" off the lower sections so they sit flat on the load bed, but it stashes under my machines as-is so that'll be for another day when I REALLY don't have anything else to do - like play pinball!

That's funny, I did the EXACT same thing with my pipe cutter, thinking the tubing on both carts was the same diameter! I even had my sleek new chrome boat hinges from Amazon at the ready, and I whistled while I worked. Boy, did I feel like a doof when I realized I should assume NOTHING (just like mama said)!

My solution involved a couple of bulky pipe elbows from Home Depot, which although were a good fit, didn't look nearly as slick as the chrome. They are also angled at 90 degrees, as I couldn't find larger angled ones that fit. I sawed the handle a few inches higher than you did, so pushing and pulling the cart with these elbows attached is doable, but still a little awkward. When not in use, the bottom half of the handle lays flat, while the top portion of the handle stands erect. I'll decline to post photos here, but let's just say I clearly didn't get my degree from M.I.T.

Anyway, I just ordered a set of the brackets that you used here, and while it'll only make it look quirkier than it already does, it will DEFINITELY make the cart slightly less cumbersome to use. I don't have to use it too often, and (thankfully) not a lot of people have to see it.

I'd also add that your photos and explanations are outstanding, so thanks for posting. They'll come in handy!!

Cheers,
Tom

Maybe this is a dumb question, but are these heavy machines ok to lift from the center of the plywood board underneath the game? The board won't break?

if the wood is in good shape, not rotted out. Yes.

LTG : )

I lay two individual 1 x 4 boards on the bed of the lift cart (roughly 16"-18" apart) so that they stick out on each side of the machine by a couple inches.....just to be safe. It puts the weight burden on the sides of the cabinet rather than the bottom.

500 lb table on sale for $200

https://go.harborfreight.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/180024_13420982.png

I finally took the plunge on this and decided to go with the Bimini method.

Made a page with instructions, YouTube video and links to the items here:

https://pinballer.info/news/tech/hydraulic-lift-table-handle-modification-for-pinball-machines/

Or just the video is here, it’s only 7 minutes from start to finish including cutting the handle for the whole basic process aside from tightening a few things:

Thanks for doing this video/article. I've needed to do this for a long time but wasn't really sure about it. This helps! I'm ordering those parts and will give it a go!

Just wanted to say thanks to all of you for these posts, I was finally able to snag one of these at a local Harbor Freight, last one in stock.

Now I just got to do the Bimini mod

Happy to help. I had someone ask how they are on carpet so I also did a quick video of it in action and you can see how the handle angles to go under and also how it folds for storage. I just did a quick test with Demolition Man on a rug for now. I don’t have thicker carpet to try yet. Might stack two rugs next time.

Yes, I bought the pneumatic tires hand cart at HF. Well made, no issues at all. I think it was $69 before coupon. Tires need to be inflated when you get it home. Uses standard air fitting inner tubes and valve stems.

I bought the lift a few weeks ago and finally got around to unpacking it, but I noticed when it is in the full down position it doesn't seem to be fully flush with the base. Before I go cutting the bars I wanted to check if this was normal, or is there something off with my lift (see pictures).

Alsop it seems to be really slow for the last few inches of drop (with nothing on it). Just wanted to be sure I don't have a lemon

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Same situation with the 1000lb'er.

So it's normal? Or we both have wonky lifts

Here’s mine that I bought a couple weeks ago, looks the same and I think it’s at the bottom as I tested mine out a couple of times, but I am no expert and this is my first experience with this cart.

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Ok so they look basically the same - thanks! Does yours drop smoothly? Mine seems inconsistent and I have to pump the release handle a bit.

You can bleed the cylinder as the instructions probably say. Or as mentioned somewhere in the thread, try picking up on the table platform and lifting it to max height by hand. Then lower it and pump it up again. After that, mine works great.

It's also worth noting that at least on my lift, the release lever lowers the pin either VERY slowly/cautiously or super fast, depending on how hard you squeeze. Not a lot of room in the middle. I may need to bleed it but I don't mind waiting as it very gently sets the machine down in its current state.

Mine is very sensitive in terms of squeezing to lower, meaning just the slightest adjustment in squeezing can make it go from lowering slowly to very fast. Maybe the more use, the more consistent it will get.

Don’t get me wrong, mine doesn’t slam down or anything.

Just did mine. Thank you very much for great instructions! One question though…my “quick release” pins don’t lock down tightly. The handle is mobile and won’t stay in place. I experimented and moved a pin around my room and overall it seemed to work just fine. Any thoughts?

Also, the 3.5 inch cut is perfect. Handle is completely flat when folded.

Darin

My quick release things are tight enough I can move the handle wherever it needs to go without it falling down on its own. I haven’t tried tightening the other end of the quick release part super far but I feel like I could get it a little tighter. But it hasn’t been an issue so far. My only complaint is the Biminis where they attach to the handle, it’s difficult to get them tight with the stock Allen screw things. I have screws in now but may just drill through it to get that part better.

I'm picking up a 500lb. unit this week...Missed the coupon though..ugh! Anyway, I have a pretty unique situation where I'll need pneumatic tires on this unit. Has anyone here had any success in doing that? The tires that come with this from the factory will absolutely NOT work for me...thanks in advance!

See post
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Keep in mind you'll get flat spots on your tires if you keep any weight on them for extended periods of time.

I was wondering how everyone uses the lift when raising their machines (I have a Harlem Globetrotters On Tour I need to raise to adjust the legs). Do people just use the lift in the middle of the underside of the cabinet, or do you use 2x4s to spread out the weight, so it is not all on the center of wood on the bottom of the cabinet.

Just use it in the middle, it’s 3/4” plywood or mdf and there’s cross bracing.

I figured, but just wanted to be sure - thanks!

I use 2 1x6 boards cut where they are about 2 inches overhang on each side. overkill but it makes me feel better.

It worked fine without, but it did make me a bit (irrationally maybe) uneasy. I might do the same moving forward