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(Topic ID: 19065)

Modified Harbor Freight Lift Table


By wizzardz

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 881 posts
  • 290 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by zaphX
  • Topic is favorited by 327 Pinsiders
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    Topic index (key posts)

    8 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

    There are 881 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 18.
    #801 6 months ago
    Quoted from VirtualMayhem:

    Thanks calfdemon for responding to the bleed question. Spiderpin - are you placing the table under the pin from the front or the back - I believe with back legs going up last your lifting from the front side of the pin. I think I will skip the bleeding part of this

    Yes I slide in from the front. Front being the coin door and start button, that's the side the handle of cart is at. So when I load to to my truck the backbox go in first.

    20181109_124152_HDR (resized).jpg20190311_162216_HDR (resized).jpg20190311_162052_HDR (resized).jpg
    #802 6 months ago

    Thanks for

    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    Yes I slide in from the front. Front being the coin door and start button, that's the side the handle of cart is at. So when I load to to my truck the backbox go in first.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Wow the pics are helpful, I figured you dropped the handle down to pull it without hitting front of machine but wasn't sure. I'm as prepared as I can be for tomorrow One of the pins I am moving is Sopranos..

    1 week later
    #803 6 months ago

    I have the 500 lb Hf Lift, and I noticed that when I go to lower the lift, it goes down SUPER SLOW. any tips on how to get it to come down a little more smoothly ??

    #804 6 months ago
    Quoted from Trindawg:

    I have the 500 lb Hf Lift, and I noticed that when I go to lower the lift, it goes down SUPER SLOW. any tips on how to get it to come down a little more smoothly ??

    I have noticed if you squeeze the release twice it comes down much faster on the second squeeze.

    #805 5 months ago
    Quoted from Trindawg:

    I have the 500 lb Hf Lift, and I noticed that when I go to lower the lift, it goes down SUPER SLOW. any tips on how to get it to come down a little more smoothly ??

    The release valve is super touchy on these. Tighten the cable carefully - too much and it will come down on it's own.

    #806 5 months ago
    Quoted from Trindawg:

    I have the 500 lb Hf Lift, and I noticed that when I go to lower the lift, it goes down SUPER SLOW. any tips on how to get it to come down a little more smoothly ??

    I'm jealous, mine takes a very very fine touch to get a slow descent. Anything past that and it rockets down.

    #807 5 months ago

    Add another bimini mod to the books!

    I drilled the tubes and replaced the set screws with bolts so no worries about them loosening up.

    Thanks all for figuring this mod out and documenting it.

    1588632494666409594046047738674 (resized).jpg20200504_184146 (resized).jpg
    1 month later
    #808 4 months ago

    So one of my casters just failed (the tread or rubber fell off the frame) on my lift I bought 3 years ago from northern tool. I've probably used it on 4 to 500 moves.
    Since they don't sell replacement sets I went looking for substitutes. Also I'm fine spending a descent amount on a new set of casters if they last, even a bigger plus if the weight capacity increased because of it. Pinball is primarily what I use this lift for, but it helps with other items as well.

    Was thinking about decreasing the size of the back tires by 1 inch and keeping the front at 5 inches. Mainly because when you start lifting the back is substantially higher then the front. on old games with crappy bottoms, I try to be super careful. When one end of the lift hits it puts a lot of strain on that part of the cab, till it evens out.

    The angle would be 1.7 degrees across the 32 inch platform, but I'm having a hard time thinking of any negatives without putting it in to practice. The slope would be negligible for the most part, but I figured anything that helps.

    back wheels (I need to check the plate to make sure they match first)
    https://www.buycasters.com/Albion-4X2-Medium-Duty-Swivel-Caster-Grey-p/bc42s16xs02.htm?CartID=1

    front wheels (fixed)
    https://www.buycasters.com/5-x-2-Solid-Cast-Polyurethane-Wheel-p/bc-d-hugr5x2-pbb.htm?CartID=2

    #809 4 months ago

    Where is the best price for the bamini ends? Thanks

    #810 4 months ago
    Quoted from crlush:

    Where is the best price for the bamini ends? Thanks

    Go to the first page of this thread and follow the Bimini Mod key post link. All info shall be revealed...

    #811 4 months ago
    Quoted from crlush:

    Where is the best price for the bamini ends? Thanks

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/12#post-4889884

    Check out key post #594 where I detail it all. Bikini caps can be found for under 30 bucks for the pair

    1 week later
    #812 4 months ago

    Anybody know if Harbor Freight does Ship-to-Store? They don't have the lift table at my local store (next closest one is 60 miles) and if I'm paying $100 for shipping, I might as well just buy it at Home Depot and take it home today

    #813 4 months ago

    Anybody got any tips on replacement wheels? Mine disintegrated into a hundred pieces while sitting in my garage.

    #814 4 months ago
    Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

    Anybody know if Harbor Freight does Ship-to-Store? They don't have the lift table at my local store

    Call your local store and ask.

    Since the virus shut downs etc, things may be different than in the past.

    LTG : )

    #815 4 months ago
    Quoted from toastbot:

    Anybody got any tips on replacement wheels? Mine disintegrated into a hundred pieces while sitting in my garage.

    Amazon

    #817 4 months ago

    Has anyone had problems lifting from the bottom panel. I would think you would be too much weight and pressure?

    #818 4 months ago
    Quoted from Gorgar666:

    Has anyone had problems lifting from the bottom panel. I would think you would be too much weight and pressure?

    If the cabinet is new or good shape, shouldn't be a problem. That is where pinball carts pick them up from.

    LTG : )

    #819 4 months ago

    So, turns out, the most common use my lift gets is raising the legs off the floor to level a game. I used to just lift the front of the game by doing a pushup. Now, raise the game, adjust, drop it, check the level, repeat if necessary.

    #820 4 months ago
    Quoted from ThatOneDude:

    So, turns out, the most common use my lift gets is raising the legs off the floor to level a game.

    It's also a handy little portable table.

    I use it when working on all sorts of things not pinball related. Really nice to have a flat surface for tools that is perpendicular to any part of the bench.

    #821 4 months ago
    Quoted from Gorgar666:

    Has anyone had problems lifting from the bottom panel. I would think you would be too much weight and pressure?

    No. In hundreds of games this has only been an issue maybe 2/3 times for me, on old games with the cabinet falling apart.

    It seems to distribute the weight evenly enough that it is generally not a problem.

    #822 4 months ago
    Quoted from CrazyLevi:

    No. In hundreds of games this has only been an issue maybe 2/3 times for me, on old games with the cabinet falling apart.
    It seems to distribute the weight evenly enough that it is generally not a problem.

    I have used my hflt to setup and take down machines at shows. Literally hundreds of times. If a machine can't handle being raised by its bottom panel you will probably be able to tell just by looking at it. In these rare cases simply flip the table around and use the bottom edge of the sides to raise the game instead of the bottom panel.

    #823 4 months ago

    Good info guys thanks.

    #824 4 months ago

    I had a game that look like it was ready to collapse. I cut two old 2x4's about an inch wider than the width of the pin. I placed them on the lift 3" before making contact.

    1 week later
    #825 4 months ago

    So I went through this whole thread, and all the options are interesting. I tried 3d printing a 45 degree connector to link the stock handle, but the littlest force would snap it in half. I tried to see if PVC would work. 3/4 PVC outside diameter is VERY close, but a bit too tight (1.05"), and then you still have to figure out a coupler between the PVC pipe and the metal tube.

    So after taking some measurements of everything, I discovered that the inside diameter of the chrome tube is very close to the outside diameter of the bottom lift handle socket, like within .1mm. Now that might not sound like a lot, but even after grinding down the powder coating with a wire wheel it was still too thick...
    20200623_171359 (resized).jpg

    So out comes the angle grinder. If you're careful and grind in straight lines, you can maintain the round shape fairly well. Few tips
    1. absolutely wear goggles
    2. try to wedge a piece of wood to prop the tube away from the bottom to give you maximum space (so you don't end up grinding the cart base or the cable)
    3. Keep checking fit, make sure you're staying consistent up the tube
    20200623_171422 (resized).jpg

    After it seems to fit good, you can use the wire wheel to smooth things out. You may want to also spray the surface with oil so it doesn't end up rusting (if you grind enough you may be able to repaint it)
    20200623_173725 (resized).jpg

    Once you fit it over, line up the hole of the tube with the hole in the lift socket. Time to get the drill out so you can make a hole through the pipe so you can put that bolt through.
    20200623_174244 (resized).jpg

    After chopping through the middle of the handle with a tubing cutter ($6 at harbor freight), I 3d printed a plastic handle so I don't cut my hand on the sharp edge. You can obviously find stock handles that fit over a 25mm pipe, but I'm cheap (and have a printer)20200623_174701 (resized).jpg20200623_174705 (resized).jpg20200623_185420 (resized).jpg20200623_185431 (resized).jpg

    #826 4 months ago
    Quoted from cconway84:

    I spent $269 on the table and another $7 to modify it. See pictures for detail.
    The 1000lb table has a larger more stable lifting surface than the 500lb lift and has a folding handle to store it under a pin. It fits between front legs easily. However the handle won’t fold backward so the lift can slide further under a pin from the front.
    There is a metal bar at the hinge on the side by the lift. I’m shown holding it in its original place to demonstrate. Cut this bar on either side where it meets the metal tabs with a reciprocating saw and a metal blade. Cut the bar at the other hinge also. The handle will now swing backward.
    Use a 5/16” metal drill bit to drill through the tabs on each side where the bar was welded in. Pass a 1/4” x 2” round head wire lock pin ($3.52 x 2 of them) through the holes. This locks the hinge in place to use upright again. Remove the pins to lower the handle backward.
    This modification cost $7 and took me all of 15 minutes. Four cuts and four drilled holes. It preserves the original strength and design to use the lift handle upright while letting the handle fold back to move the table under games and to fold forward as designed for storage.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Thank you for showing this mod. Super easy and cheap to boot...

    #827 4 months ago

    Decided to do another mod.. obviously since the cart is only 18" wide you need some sort of board to extend the platform (but it needs to be narrow in order to fit under the pinball and slide past the legs).

    So I decided to build pivoting arms. To start off you need a pair of snap ring pliers (HF also has these cheap)
    https://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ring-pliers-with-interchangeable-heads-63845.html

    So that you can remove the two pins towards the side away from the handle. Then you need to drill four 1/4" holes. Each board will be 13" long and still be able to pivot without hitting each other:
    1 (resized).png

    Mark a round at the end. Use a protractor, or find a bottle that's close. I simply used my chopsaw and made a bunch of cuts (doesn't need to be perfectly round, just close). chop saws are preferred over a jigsaw so your cuts are straight.
    2 (resized).jpg
    3 (resized).jpg

    Mark your hole, 1.75" from the sides. Use a 3/4" spade bit to recess down just below 1/2 inch.. Either use a drill press, or use a drill and a pair of calipers:
    4 (resized).jpg

    Once your recess is good, you need to drill a hole in the center of that. I'm drilling at 1/2" because I bought some 1/2" O.D. nylon spacers from homedepot.. They had a couple that were 1" long but not enough so I had to buy the pairs of 1/2" long:
    5 (resized).jpg

    Your bushing needs to spin freely on the outside. You are clamping down on the center with a 2" bolt and a washer/nut. Since I didn't have anything larger than a 1/2" bit I had to wiggle it around a little to elongate it slightly.
    6 (resized).jpg

    Now you can slide it under your pin, then pivot the arms out:
    7 (resized).jpg
    8 (resized).jpg

    #828 4 months ago

    Nice idea

    1 week later
    #829 3 months ago

    I did look through the thread but, well.... I looked rather quickly. Apologies if this method has already been posted. I used hinged boat rail couplings in my cart mod. Very much looking forward to finding out that I've contributed something!

    Added 117 days ago:

    amazon.com link »

    #830 3 months ago

    What size diameter are they? Nice job!

    #831 3 months ago
    Quoted from Jrotten:

    What size diameter are they? Nice job!

    They are 1 inch (25mm).

    I should also mention that.... just minutes ago... I tried to move a pin that my cart just barely would not fit under so I'm thinking it might have been better to make the cut at 20" above floor height rather than the 21" that I went with. Having to cut it down another inch shouldn't have any negative effect. We shall see.

    #832 3 months ago
    Quoted from Bad-Sir-Ivan:

    I should also mention that....

    You did!
    Thanks for the vid.

    Got aa link to those Joints anyhywhere?

    #833 3 months ago
    Quoted from guitarded:

    Got aa link to those Joints anyhywhere?

    Here ya go! Also put one in the video post.

    amazon.com link »

    #834 3 months ago
    Quoted from Bad-Sir-Ivan:

    I did look through the thread but, well.... I looked rather quickly. Apologies if this method has already been posted. I used hinged boat rail couplings in my cart mod. Very much looking forward to finding out that I've contributed something!

    Added yesterday: amazon.com link »

    Oh HELL YEAH. That's what I'm talking about. Nicely done.

    1 week later
    #835 3 months ago

    I like the bimini end mod the best but my cheap ass wouldn't spend the $30 so I welded some 3/16 pieces of angle iron to the pipes after cutting them around 6 inches from the bottom and used 2 5/16 bolts.

    20200719_164000 (resized).jpg20200719_164022 (resized).jpg20200719_183207 (resized).jpg20200719_183213 (resized).jpg
    #836 3 months ago

    OK, after years of faithful service, my cart blew a tire!

    The black plastic that they call a tire cracked off of the hub. I can't find parts for this on HF's site. Do you know of any good replacements? Worse comes to worse, it'll limp along when needed.

    Edit: While the part is not listed in their replacement parts catalog, they do offer a bunch of casters. I guess it's time to head off to the store.

    3 weeks later
    #837 69 days ago
    Quoted from Bad-Sir-Ivan:

    I did look through the thread but, well.... I looked rather quickly. Apologies if this method has already been posted. I used hinged boat rail couplings in my cart mod. Very much looking forward to finding out that I've contributed something!

    Thanks Bad-Sir-Ivan, this was the nicest solution, I just did mine within 10 minutes after waiting a few weeks for my package arrive.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32919265179.html get the 25mm, two of them including shipping is about $25 total. You will need a 3mm hex key to tighten them.

    I used the $5 Harbor Freight pipe cutter at 16 inch from the floor to make the cuts, probably 17 inch from the ground also would have worked, but not higher to fit under my lowest machine.

    IMG_3761 (resized).jpg
    #838 69 days ago

    Here is what I did to eliminate lifting from the machine bottom panel..I remove them when in storage and roll the cart on top, under the machine..

    cart1 (resized).jpgcart2 (resized).jpg
    3 weeks later
    #839 48 days ago

    Anyone have ideas for a substitute for this part ? Looking to do a bimini mod but part out at Amazon

    Screenshot_20200912-140117_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg
    #840 46 days ago

    Hey themickster - What are those red urethane wheels on yours? Aftermarket? Source? Better than the stock grey ones that don't have bearings, I assume?

    #841 46 days ago
    Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

    Hey themickster - What are those red urethane wheels on yours? Aftermarket? Source? Better than the stock grey ones that don't have bearings, I assume?

    I bought the cart probably 15 years ago and I don't think I changed them out, must be how it came back then....

    IMG_4436 (resized).jpg
    #842 46 days ago

    I don’t think they are better. That cart really isn’t designed to move pinball machines around, and with too much use those red covers fray and fall off, and the black wheels left behind are soft and mark up the floor. I shouldn’t complain I got 6-7 years out of mine before the wheel covers started to fall off but I don’t think it’s anything you need or want. And yes they came stock on that cart.

    1 week later
    #843 33 days ago

    Curious, has anyone's lift failed to keep it's height? I've had mine for years and currently have a project cab sitting on it. Noticed today it lowered itself completely. Lifted it back up, few hours later, lowered again. Piston going? Or is there something else I should look at?

    Thanks

    #845 33 days ago

    Release handle cable adjusted too tight?

    #846 33 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    It's leaking.
    LTG : )

    I was thinking that, but no obvious wetness.

    (I'd attach a pic but it keeps failing to attach "Upload error! Unknown error."

    #847 33 days ago
    Quoted from Irishbastard:

    I was thinking that, but no obvious wetness.

    Might work on gas or air.

    LTG : )

    #848 33 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Might work on gas or air.
    LTG : )

    It's a hydraulic lift, so I assume hydraulic fluid, no?

    #849 33 days ago
    Quoted from Irishbastard:

    It's a hydraulic lift, so I assume hydraulic fluid, no?

    You'd think so.

    LTG : )

    #850 33 days ago
    Quoted from Irishbastard:

    It's a hydraulic lift, so I assume hydraulic fluid, no?

    Reading up on hydraulics. Could be several things. Some that break down over time, or even evaporate.

    LTG : )

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