I think you are supposed to be able to tighten the bolts and have it stay in whatever position it's in, but in my case, the handle just swings freely. Maybe I did something wrong... but it works OK for me in this configuration so I haven't really tried to change it.

I suppose it depends on what you use to secure it. If you use nuts with nylon inserts, you will probably be able to tighten it down and have a better chance of them staying where you want it (tight enough to stay, but loose enough that you can move it and fold it down). If you use wing nuts which makes it easier to tighten them when they come loose (every time), then more than likely, it is going to be loose all the time so you can fold it. Having it loose and movable all the time is not a bad thing though. I am still able to move, steer, and navigate the lift wherever I want with the handle in a loose setting. Works fine. But I do have to tighten up at least one of the wing nuts every time I use it. Maybe I will try finding wing nuts with nylon inserts... I'm sure they have those, right? That might be the way to go.

Duplicate post

I left mine loose so I can lay the handle flat in storage under a machine

You can tighten the bolts and the handle will kinda stay in place where you want it. I have the bicycle quick-lock skewers and am changing to a bolt and nylock nut. Also, make sure to either LockTite or replace the grub screws that hold the posts in the bimini caps. I haven't yet and mine come loose all the time.

I replaced mine with allen bolts for this exact reason

I guess it's time for me to mod mine to look more pro and less hack.

Great tip right here. Thanks for the heads up!

This came in handy today! Wish it went a bit higher though

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1/2 ton may be overkill but can lift higher.

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Put some 2x4 on it before lifting pin. Can add 1-1/2" or 3" doubled up if needed.

Got it upstairs with no issue. The photo doesn’t show it but the wood on the base of my “extra stand” extends to the side boards vs the bottom of the game

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FYI. This is a rough estimate and thinking out loud. If a pinball machine weighs 250 lbs. Lifting on side rails would put 3.6 lbs per square inch (psi) on rails. Lifting on bottom would put 3.4 oz psi on bottom of machine and less stress, weigh is spread out over a larger footprint. Back to you regularly scheduled program.

Except... the sides are thicker, vertical services and can sustain much more weight then the flimsy 1/4" press board that is barely sitting in a groove with a few triangle blocks for support.
It would be an interesting mechanical engineering experiment/study, to determine which is the better jacking points on a pinball.

In 20 years of working on and owning pins, I have never once bused the bottom out of a cabinet, by using a lift of any type.

I use a short length of 2x4 with my bimini-modified HF hydraulic cart. I lay it flat or on edge in the cart to provide 2 heights of lift-stop, which is perfect for use with the modified handle. I also use it on edge on top of the lift to raise the sides or front/back of the pin to adjust leg levelers. Using it as a leveling aid is clutch.

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Nice trick

2nd one I’ve got after first one did not lift. There’s a bleeding procedure but the rubber plug is so tight it will not go back in to the hole on cylinder.

Does anyone own this one from Menards? $98 right now seems like a great deal if it is as good as the one from Harbor Freight. Looks the same.

In the pics it looks to be a bit lighter than the HF one. That's not a bad thing

I spent $269 on the table and another $7 to modify it. See pictures for detail.
The 1000lb table has a larger more stable lifting surface than the 500lb lift and has a folding handle to store it under a pin. It fits between front legs easily. However the handle won’t fold backward so the lift can slide further under a pin from the front.
There is a metal bar at the hinge on the side by the lift. I’m shown holding it in its original place to demonstrate. Cut this bar on either side where it meets the metal tabs with a reciprocating saw and a metal blade. Cut the bar at the other hinge also. The handle will now swing backward.
Use a 5/16” metal drill bit to drill through the tabs on each side where the bar was welded in. Pass a 1/4” x 2” round head wire lock pin ($3.52 x 2 of them) through the holes. This locks the hinge in place to use upright again. Remove the pins to lower the handle backward.
This modification cost $7 and took me all of 15 minutes. Four cuts and four drilled holes. It preserves the original strength and design to use the lift handle upright while letting the handle fold back to move the table under games and to fold forward as designed for storage.

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Nice work!

Do you know what the dimensions are compared to the 500 pound version? I've seen some people place wood underneath to extend the lift surface.

https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60730.html?_br_psugg_q=lift+table

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60438.html?_br_psugg_q=lift+table

Specs on both in the links. 500 pound is a little longer table. 1000 pound lifts a little higher.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG!

Lifting higher and more safely, always a key approach!

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2nd harbor freight lift table that does not hold pressure out if the box.... I will try and bleed. Wtf

I would disconnect the cable or make sure it is really loose. The valve is pretty touchy

Which cable are you referring to ?

The release cable that lowers the table. It's hooked to the lever on the handle.

I’ll check it out. Thanks!!

Mine did the same. Apply a light layer of grease on the piston shaft. Actuate it a few times and it should hold.

Interesting. I’ll try it. Thanks. Would be nice to not have to scrap this thing.

Please report back on success (or not). I suspect this is a common issue.

Will do . Been busy. This is my second one that will not lift. Returned first one but now I’m out of warranty......

This was my problem. From the factory cable is so tight it’s always in lower mode. Just touching the cable body would lower it. Loosened cable connector and it is working. Thanks all for the input.

Excellent! Thank you for the feedback.

Did the 500 lb table and the Bimini fittings. Worked great! Thanks for all the help.

This is a great thread. Just bought the 500 lbs version at harbor freight and just stood on top of the lift and bent the bars to a roughly 45 degree angle, so far so food. Thanks to the person that recommended this and to everyone adding to the thread.

I finally caved. Bimini tops are on their way!

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Plan on doing the same sometime this month.

Thanks
Blake

I wasn't going to spend the money, and then I heard someone else here mention that Menards had them discounted. I check my local store and holy crap, $110. I nabbed it.

I'm glad I got it. I'm all done getting under machines and lifting with my back and crab-walking around the room now

Thats a great price. We don't have a Menards here in VT so I will be getting it from Harbor Freight. $190 I think is the price I saw. I assume you plan on making some adjustments to the handles?

Thanks
Blake

Yes, I'll be doing the mods with the bimini caps, outlined in one of the key posts.

I held off getting one initially and bought pinball skates, etc... Finally bit the bullet and bought the table about a year ago now, did the mods, and wish I had bought it right off the bat. It is the best thing to use to move the machines around in the gameroom and all the other crap I bought and tried just sits there and collects dust. Not having to get down under the machines is by far the number one reason at this age... lol

Coupon in my Harbor Freight catalog received today..

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Does anyone sell a kit to modify the Harbor Freight carts? Looking for something where I don't have to do any sawing, drilling or other beyond my skill level steps.

If you're doing bimini caps the only thing beyond screwing is cutting the handle. Get this if you don't want to use a saw.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-40617-Quarters-Tubing-Cutter/dp/B001P307PO/ref=sr_1_1

Those cutters work amazingly well. You can get one for about half that price from Harbor Freight when you pick up your lift.

That pipe cutter is exactly what I used for my Bimini mod. Get some Locktite for the grub screws in the bimini caps while you’re at HF too.