(Topic ID: 19065)

Modified Harbor Freight Lift Table


By wizzardz

7 years ago



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  • 686 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by cad-kid
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    There are 686 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 14.
    #601 8 months ago

    Thanks, I need one of these.

    #602 8 months ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    Yep p2k's post should be keyed as well.
    Here's a video I made about my experience with this method (worked great for me)

    Agreed... who is responsible for making key posts? To be honest, I saw your video as well before making up my mind... and it was p2k's post along with your video that convinced me that this was the layout that would work best for my situation.

    #603 8 months ago

    Thanks all for this great discussion. I'm going to take the plunge today and go Bimini... I figure if I don't like it or I want to go P2K, I can always mod to that later with a slightly larger black iron pipe from where I cut the original at.

    #604 8 months ago

    Used my cart to load in at comic con yesterday and lost 2 set screws on the handle. I replaced them with #6 metric hex head bolts 3/4". They were 1.29 each at ACE. I was able to really bear down on these and get a great grab on the handle. I don't like the idea of using loctite but I will if these come loose.

    #605 8 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    Used my cart to load in at comic con yesterday and lost 2 set screws on the handle. I replaced them with #6 metric hex head bolts 3/4". They were 1.29 each at ACE. I was able to really bear down on these and get a great grab on the handle. I don't like the idea of using loctite but I will if these come loose.

    Glad you were able to get things straight again, and hopefully more secure too!

    #606 8 months ago

    So, that was a crazy easy build to mod the handle... But I have another question for the group. Do your wheels suck miserably on carpet? I feel like I was dragging it around without a pin, let alone once I got one lifted up.

    I saw some wheel discussion - anyone have a recommendation to get the existing ones rolling easier or a link for ones to replace with?

    20190325_224324 (resized).jpg
    #607 8 months ago

    Nevermind - I'm an idiot... They move a lot better with the brake off...

    (In my defense, they put the stupid thing on backwards so that on is off and off in on!!)

    #608 8 months ago

    In an ever-ending attempt to improve moving techniques, I have added wing nuts on the bimini mod. I highly recommend them. The cost is about 25 cents for two, and they allow for far easier tightening/loosening on the fly.

    I am also experimenting with fibre washers. I havent decided if they are better or worse than nylon yet, but they seem to be easier to find (at least, they are where I live).
    I will get back with the info.

    #609 8 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    In an ever-ending attempt to improve moving techniques, I have added wing nuts on the bimini mod. I highly recommend them. The cost is about 25 cents for two, and they allow for far easier tightening/loosening on the fly.
    I am also experimenting with fibre washers. I havent decided if they are better or worse than nylon yet, but they seem to be easier to find (at least, they are where I live).
    I will get back with the info.

    I finally took the plunge, and everything went fantastically! I was shocked at somehow there being enough cable length when keeping the 3.5" cut at the base.

    My only issues were using a less than stellar cheap $6 pipe cutter from Harbor Freight, and these little bolts on the caps keep popping out. Anyone used loctite or found a better method?

    #610 8 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    I finally took the plunge, and everything went fantastically! I was shocked at somehow there being enough cable length when keeping the 3.5" cut at the base.
    My only issues were using a less than stellar cheap $6 pipe cutter from Harbor Freight, and these little bolts on the caps keep popping out. Anyone used loctite or found a better method?

    You can drill through the caps and bolt them, or a strong epoxy will keep it together.

    I have never had problems with mine, or really heard of many issues. Is the hex nut loosening?

    #611 8 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    You can drill through the caps and bolt them, or a strong epoxy will keep it together.
    I have never had problems with mine, or really heard of many issues. Is the hex nut loosening?

    Yes, those tiny little nuts in the caps keep popping out on me. I got a hex wrench set, but they keep coming loose. Not exactly driving this thing around like s go-kart either.

    Thanks for doing the really solid summarization! I'm really glad people have multiple, with this and the other methods, well documented options.

    #612 8 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    Yes, those tiny little nuts in the caps keep popping out on me. I got a hex wrench set, but they keep coming loose. Not exactly driving this thing around like s go-kart either.
    Thanks for doing the really solid summarization! I'm really glad people have multiple, with this and the other methods, well documented options.

    My first thought would be to really wrench them in tight. This is not a common problem with the bimini method, so im not sure if it is just your specific bolts or caps or not.

    Where did you get the bimini caps from? They could just not be good quality. I passed on sone cheaper ones because I didn't want any issues down the line.

    Drilling and bolting certainly is an option. It adds more complexity to it, but it certainly wouldn't cost much.

    As mentioned before, you can also use a glue or epoxy. JB Weld will hold just about anything together. I would use this as a last resort, because it won't come off...ever.

    #613 8 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    My first thought would be to really wrench them in tight. This is not a common problem with the bimini method, so im not sure if it is just your specific bolts or caps or not.
    Where did you get the bimini caps from? They could just not be good quality. I passed on sone cheaper ones because I didn't want any issues down the line.
    Drilling and bolting certainly is an option. It adds more complexity to it, but it certainly wouldn't cost much.
    As mentioned before, you can also use a glue or epoxy. JB Weld will hold just about anything together. I would use this as a last resort, because it won't come off...ever.

    I ordered from Amazon, not the ebay variety.

    I think Cheddar was having these issues too, suggested Loctite. It's not the caps themselves, just the teenie tiny wee screws in the caps.

    #614 8 months ago

    I picked up four grade 8 M6 SHCS as well as nuts and lock washers.

    I decided on a 4.0" cut on the handle and drilled through one side of the handle to allow for the M6 screws / bolts to lock handle shafts into bimini caps.

    My mods are not yet complete, although works fine as is.

    Quoted from wesman:

    I finally took the plunge, and everything went fantastically! I was shocked at somehow there being enough cable length when keeping the 3.5" cut at the base.
    My only issues were using a less than stellar cheap $6 pipe cutter from Harbor Freight, and these little bolts on the caps keep popping out. Anyone used loctite or found a better method?

    IMG_2291 (resized).JPG

    #615 8 months ago
    Quoted from wesman:

    I ordered from Amazon, not the ebay variety.
    I think Cheddar was having these issues too, suggested Loctite. It's not the caps themselves, just the teenie tiny wee screws in the caps.

    I replaced the screws with little bolts. No loctite or drilling. The bolt allowed me to really bear down on them.

    11
    #616 8 months ago

    Since my original modification here are two other mods I've done:

    1) Added a bend to the handle using a 45 pipe elbow and two 1/2" pipe nipples
    2) Added a plywood swivel top (pivot on a 1/4" bolt in center of table) to allow wider contact with the cabinet sides of older EM's
    It pivots to make the table narrow enough to roll under the pinball game, then swivel the top while under the game.

    Alan

    2nd mod b (resized).jpg2nd mod a (resized).jpg
    #617 8 months ago

    Thanks everyone for the details on this lift/mod. I built it today in preparation for a radcal upgrade on my JJPOTC.

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    #618 8 months ago

    I also want to thank everyone for their input and instructions. I built mine yesterday. Extremely easy!!

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    #619 8 months ago

    I like the Bimini caps. Nice and clean. Here's another mod i did to my HF cart..
    1/2" rod in the handle with a link that allows me to use the handle to actuate the stock foot pedal.
    So not only does the handle fold to get it under the pin but also folds away flat AND as a pump handle with full motion. I don't have to stretch my leg in there with this mod. Sorry i don't know at this time the exact distance I mounted the rod at. But I only drilled the inside of the handle and cut rod longer so it stays inside the handle. The link is adjustable and slides to one side to allow folding away. I don't see you guys talking about changing the front wheels to casters. I did that so it not like pushing a grocery cart backwards. Spins on a dime.

    20160526_044625518_iOS (resized).jpg20160526_044652793_iOS (resized).jpg
    #620 8 months ago

    Neat idea

    #621 8 months ago
    Quoted from Wolfus:

    I like the Bimini caps. Nice and clean. Here's another mod i did to my HF cart..
    1/2" rod in the handle with a link that allows me to use the handle to actuate the stock foot pedal.
    So not only does the handle fold to get it under the pin but also folds away flat AND as a pump handle with full motion. I don't have to stretch my leg in there with this mod. Sorry i don't know at this time the exact distance I mounted the rod at. But I only drilled the inside of the handle and cut rod longer so it stays inside the handle. The link is adjustable and slides to one side to allow folding away. I don't see you guys talking about changing the front wheels to casters. I did that so it not like pushing a grocery cart backwards. Spins on a dime.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Be curious on what you used for the wheels as I want to do that. Please let us know.
    Mike

    #622 8 months ago

    HF 4" swivel casters. I used my angle grinder to cut off and make smooth the two sets of straight brackets.
    I welded but they can be drilled and bolted on, which is better just more work.

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    #623 7 months ago

    Ouch. Shipping to NJ is now $97 dollars for one of these. After coupon the unit itself is only $137.

    #624 7 months ago
    Quoted from okgrak:

    Ouch. Shipping to NJ is now $97 dollars for one of these. After coupon the unit itself is only $137.

    That is pretty understandable, they are pretty heavy. I wasn't expecting how heavy it was when I bought mine.

    #625 7 months ago
    Quoted from okgrak:

    Ouch. Shipping to NJ is now $97 dollars for one of these. After coupon the unit itself is only $137.

    They weigh 88 lbs...and that does not include and packing/shipping materials.
    $97 actually sounds cheap.

    Are there no harbor freights near you?

    #626 7 months ago
    Quoted from okgrak:

    Ouch. Shipping to NJ is now $97 dollars for one of these. After coupon the unit itself is only $137.

    Where are you in NJ? I have three near me (one only blocks away); two in Bergen County and one in Hudson that I know of.

    You could go to any one of those and certainly save on the shipping.

    #627 7 months ago

    Ok I'll admit that I'm an idiot and lost the two screws that hold the handle into the cart. Can anybody tell me what size / thread / what to get from home depot / lowes to replace them ?

    #628 7 months ago
    Quoted from FelixTCat:

    Ok I'll admit that I'm an idiot and lost the two screws that hold the handle into the cart. Can anybody tell me what size / thread / what to get from home depot / lowes to replace them ?

    Key Post #594 (for reference)

    2 - 1/4"-20 Hex Bolt
    2 - 1/4"-20 Stop Nut
    4 - 1/4" flat washer
    4 - 1/4" flat washer nylon (make sure they are nylon, NOT RUBBER)

    #629 7 months ago

    Bought one today for 137 bucks on my way to pick up a pin near Syracuse. The nearest Canadian equivalent isn't remotely close in price to this table (cheapest one was $400ish). It was my first time in harbor freight, lots of really good deals there, $4 clamps, crazy!

    #630 7 months ago

    I picked up one at Canadian Tire on sale for a bit over $200 CDN.

    Quoted from Geteos:

    Bought one today for 137 bucks on my way to pick up a pin near Syracuse. The nearest Canadian equivalent isn't remotely close in price to this table (cheapest one was $400ish). It was my first time in harbor freight, lots of really good deals there, $4 clamps, crazy!

    #631 7 months ago

    Mine has metric bolts down low, M8x1.25 thread.

    Quoted from FelixTCat:

    Ok I'll admit that I'm an idiot and lost the two screws that hold the handle into the cart. Can anybody tell me what size / thread / what to get from home depot / lowes to replace them ?

    #632 7 months ago
    Quoted from Daditude:

    Key Post #594 (for reference)
    2 - 1/4"-20 Hex Bolt
    2 - 1/4"-20 Stop Nut
    4 - 1/4" flat washer
    4 - 1/4" flat washer nylon (make sure they are nylon, NOT RUBBER)

    Thanks, I'm actually looking for these two bolts that came with the lift table, not the ones for the handle mod.

    894d383df6e8e77231db906325492083b7d21444 (resized).jpg
    #633 7 months ago
    Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

    Mine has metric bolts down low, M8x1.25 thread.

    Perfect thank you, I picked up two at lunch and they fit great.

    #634 7 months ago

    Kool, great that I could help.

    Quoted from FelixTCat:

    Perfect thank you, I picked up two at lunch and they fit great.

    #635 7 months ago
    Quoted from fast_in_muskoka:

    I picked up one at Canadian Tire on sale for a bit over $200 CDN.

    Doh! I didn’t see it down to that price at CT or princess auto. Oh well, the HF came out around $200 CDN with exchange and taxes at the end. The main thing is I have one now lol.

    #636 7 months ago

    For the canucks, the red motomaster lift table goes on sale for 187 regularly at crappy tire. It says it’s rated for 330lbs but you get the 500lb one in the box

    #637 7 months ago

    https://www.harborfreight.com/# There's a 20% off coupon good this weekend only. I have a couple of machines coming (if all goes well) in the next few weeks - I think I'll follow the great advice from you all and pick one up! I'm getting older - schlepping a couple of machines around isn't as easy as it used to be....

    #638 7 months ago
    Quoted from homegameroom:

    https://www.harborfreight.com/# There's a 20% off coupon good this weekend only. I have a couple of machines coming (if all goes well) in the next few weeks - I think I'll follow the great advice from you all and pick one up! I'm getting older - schlepping a couple of machines around isn't as easy as it used to be....

    I've had mind for about 18 months now. First time I used it to bring a pin from detached garage to house (30' thru grass) I knew I made a good investment. I did it by myself and with legs and head on a EM machine. Then I started buying more.

    20190420_135117 (resized).jpg
    #639 7 months ago

    pinball lift lift yeah pinball lift yeah yeah yeah bimini caps yeah lift yeah lift pinbll

    IMG_20190429_222714 (resized).jpg

    So like... I'm a little paranoid - Do I use this to lift directly against the bottom plywood in the game or should I get some 2x4's for it and have it lift by the cabinet edges? Also I need to lift from as far back on the game as possible right? Cause it seems unstable otherwise, like the game wants to lean backwards. It's picking up the front legs first and I am expecting it to lift it uniformly.

    #640 7 months ago
    Quoted from alexmogil:

    pinball lift lift yeah pinball lift yeah yeah yeah bimini caps yeah lift yeah lift pinbll
    [quoted image]
    So like... I'm a little paranoid - Do I use this to lift directly against the bottom plywood in the game or should I get some 2x4's for it and have it lift by the cabinet edges? Also I need to lift from as far back on the game as possible right? Cause it seems unstable otherwise, like the game wants to lean backwards. It's picking up the front legs first and I am expecting it to lift it uniformly.

    2×4s are not necessary. In fact, I would not recommend them. The table is gentler (larger, wider dispersed contact area).

    You have to find the center of gravity. It will depend on the weight of the cab, the headbox, and whether or not you are moving it with the headbox up or down. You typically have to put it further back underneath the cab (which is mostly why it needs the handle modified in the first place).

    1 week later
    #641 7 months ago

    I have one of these tables but the whole hydro-jack part is missing. I cannot seem to find anywhere that they sell parts at all. Has anyone had any luck finding parts for these carts?

    Thanks
    -Jim

    #642 7 months ago

    fairly certain the whole deal comes from china, so individual parts purchased here might cost more than an entire new unit

    Quoted from jim5six:

    I have one of these tables but the whole hydro-jack part is missing. I cannot seem to find anywhere that they sell parts at all. Has anyone had any luck finding parts for these carts?
    Thanks
    -Jim

    2 weeks later
    #643 6 months ago

    I saw one of the swivel lifts at Yegpin this year and decided to build my own. I used a 1000-pound 12" circular bearing (12 bucks at Pricess Auto - Canadian Harbor Freight), which works very well. I didn't bother with the handle too much. I just bent it back about 30%, which is enough to pick up a folded pin from the front, and I would think it will still lift a machine with the backbox up. The handle still pulls out for easy stow. The 3/4" ply still allows the machine to swivel after its picked up, which makes it really easy to manoeuvre.

    Ply base so the bearing won't bend the metal. 0_011 (resized).jpg

    Bearing on ply base 0_007 (resized).jpg

    Top ply bolted to bearing 0_004 (resized).jpg

    Top ply rotated 0_005 (resized).jpg

    Final product with bent handle. 0_012 (resized).jpg

    #644 6 months ago

    Interesting idea!

    #645 6 months ago

    I stood in a 45 minute line at HB yesterday, only to have them tell me that they had just sold the last one in stock......
    GRRRRRRR.......

    #646 6 months ago

    If you get one of the slips for the table hang onto it. I got mine a while back. They were out of stock but told me when a general shipment was coming. I called and they had one come in which they were glad to set aside for me for pickup.
    The 25% discount went away for now but 20% off is still available.

    #647 6 months ago

    I'm holding out for a 25% discount and then I'm pulling the trigger on this.

    #648 6 months ago

    I'll probably wait a month, and try again when the next 20% coupon shows up.

    #649 6 months ago

    Don't have to wait.
    Current % offs - if its out there its here -- and all the free item coupons are posted.

    ALL the HF coupons all the time:

    http://www.hfqpdb.com/browse

    #650 6 months ago

    I am going to pick up one of these lifts but have a question. When doing the bimini caps do you tighten the bolts for whatever angle you want the handle at or does the handle just "free float" when you are using it?

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