Cuts not straight. Need to adjust the tightness on the joints. Also need to find my original bolts. Overall id give myself 6/10 I’m happy though!

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2 questions:

1) what does everyone do to keep the slip resistant matt on the cart? Glue?

2) can you just bend it? A couple of people mentioned that....but does it work? Does it bend far enough?

Sweet! Did you use these?

Sinddy Black Bike Bicycle Quick Release Seatpost Seat Clamp Front Hub Skewer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YOB5OMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ldZGCbP9GWG98

Something similar for sure ...

Promax Seat Clamp Bolt with Quick Release (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007Y5G9Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v5ZGCbGZCT75S

I would have sprung for the cheap eBay ones but I didn’t want to wait. Seem to work ok. Amazon’s are Not worth 5 bucks each IMO

I let it slide around because I use it to stand up my pins. I would be curious because it would be better if it stayed in one place

The thing with bending is it doesn’t store well? I’m assuming you can’t get the pole back out? With the bimini it folds right up

Double post

So, is the bimini considered the best?

No clue, hopefully someone who bent theirs can confirm for sure

I have the bimini mod with the bike quick release and am not a fan of the quick releases. They are too hard to get tight enough to stay tight and come loose easily. I will be replacing them with a simple bolt and nylock nut with washers. Hopefully it'll stay tight that way. Also. make sure to LockTite the set screws in the bimini caps, they come loose as well.

I left mine loose enough so I can fold the handle flat on the table when I slide it under a machine. My handle has always been hinged and I prefer it to fixed. The hinged handle makes it easier to slide under the center of mass the first time

I was teetering on the bike clamp idea myself, so thank you for the directional input regarding avoiding that direction!

Gonna head to my local hardware store today with caps in hand! Would you be able to snap a photo of yours, so we could see how you have your washer placement and things set up overall? Thanks again for the advice!

What do you mean by your handle being hinged? Do you loosen the nut to unlock and store it, then retighten to raise it?

I only tightened the lock nut to the minimum resistance. I can balance the handle straight up if I like but it moves freely through 180 degrees.IMG_20190309_104720092 (resized).jpg

Note: the washer is between the 2 flanges it doesn't touch the cap when installed just rides between the flanges. I don't know if this is necessary but I didn't want the flanges rubbing on each other.

Awesome! Thanks so much for that info and the photo!

Aaah. So the part of the cap that sticks up with the hole would he referred to as a flange? I was trying to describe this project to my friend, and felt like a buffoon for not knowing what the hell to call it, haha!

Thanks again!

The creativity and inginuity on this thread is great. All for a pinball lift table. Love it!

I am going to try the bimini cap method.

I have found them in 1 inch diameter...but is that the inner diameter or outer diameter that needs to be 1 inch?

Also, what size is the "eyelet"? I need to know which size bolt to get.

1 inch should be the inner diameter. Sorry I don't know the bolt size. I just took a cap to Ace with me

Ditto^^^ Just measured the HF handle and it's 0.988" (diameter).

One pair needs to be 3/4", and the other 1". I took them to my local hardware shop this weekend, explained what I was attempting, using photos kindly provided on here, and he selected parts for me. I'll post a photo of what he selected in a few minutes.

Ok. Thank you

What hardware did you go to? Not the location, but rather if it's a big box store, Ace, Do it Best, etc.

I did this first but was not able to fold the handle down. By cutting 3 inches off the handle and putting it in the cart. I used 2 pairs of 1" to make a hinge in the handle

So....do i need 4 caps at 1 inch inner diameter...or do i need to get 2 at 1 inch and 2 at 3/4 inch inner diameter?

This is what I did. The 3/4 I checked caps did not go into the mounts deep enough. I was worried they would pull out during use.

So 4 1" caps

Would this work okay for cutting the handle?

https://m.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-62243.html

What did you use the dewalt, are they hex wrenches, for? And the self lock, what was that for?

I moved my pin with the lower handle in the meantime. Kinda forgot how sloped cabinets are, and was a bit freaked out raising it with the back end coming off the ground so much later.

I went to a local hardware store. The old guys there know their stuff, and are always happy to help! Though....he forgot one nut for the one set.

I might go the 4 1" caps afterall. Did you guys need cut the three inches off, then make that into a smaller one inch or so piece to fit into the base?

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I used something very similar. Yes hex wrench's for securing the caps. Self lock? Are you talking lock nut or the quick release some guys are using?

The 3" piece goes.in the base.

Does anyone know the bolt size for the bimini caps?

This may seem dumb, but if 3" is cut out, then replaced at the bottom, how does that effect the cable being short? Added in with the extra bimini length. Or do you cut 6" off, then that in half?

I feel like this is getting over complicated. part of the bi mini method is that its simple. you only need to make two cuts. There should be two shorter pieces (with thread holes) that sit in the base of the lift. No issues with short cable.

Agreed.

I am in the process of ordering parts for it, and then i will complete the mod. It seems like everyone just tells a piece of the onfo, but not the whole thing.
Once finished, I will detail the exact cut length, bolt sizes, etc to make my post the one stop for info.

no 3" off each side. You could also remove the total height of the caps. I had already destroyed my cable so I replaced it with a new one when I did this.

A tutorial on the process would be appreciated. It could be added to the topic index.

I'm going to make a crude drawing at work today. When I read people say, cut 3" off, I thought that was the bottom, but obviously it's 3"...out...of the pipe, from maybe 2" up from the base.

yeah 3 inches off the bottom of the handle from each side.

If it's right from the bottom, aren't you then losing access to the hole for the bolt to be screwed back in to be secured? I figured it was three inches removed, but just up from where the handle pops out of the base of the cart.

I wonder if their is any aluminum versions of this cart. For easier transport?

The bolt goes back through the hole or against the tube. You can see it in the image I uploaded above: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/12#post-4876506

Here's a quick drawingCart Hinge (resized).png

So I'm guessing you didn't place the original pipe into the base, like post #486 here?

I guess there are so many variants, it's tough to see what parts fit in where, depending on the mod.

Thanks for the awesome sketch!

Yeah that's the 3" in the drawing. It goes into the base so the cap has something to attach too

Excellent!

Did you toss any of the handle?

Edit: Ah, so that's the "Note: remove height of the handle...".

Raegor Daditude mbwalker and for folks that were asking what specific parts to grab, I went back to my local hardware store today and got exact names and sizes.

The following is for one side, so get two of every part listed here, and 4 of the flat washers.

1/4"-20 Hex Bolt
1/4"-20 Stop Nut

2 1/4" flat washer
1/4" flat washer nylon

You can see all of the parts in this photo laid out, but the Stop Nut is visible connected to the bimini caps on the right side.
20190313_030251 (resized).jpg

So 2nd time using this table and it won’t lift. Tried bleeding and still not working. Bleed plug would not fit back in hole. Got frustrated and tried to trim it. Now it just pops out . No body seems to sell replacement bleeder plugs.

Nice Daditude . We need this a key post. Does the OP have to do it?

EDit: I pm'd ForceFlow to see if we can get this a key post

I used a harbor freight pipe cutter instead of a hacksaw to cut the bottoms off of mine.

I used lock washers instead of flat, and I used wing nuts instead of regular nuts.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07875R6WX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

I bought those bimi caps from Amazon.

Nice write up @daditude.

You could also use wooden dowels if you don't want to cut metal. I have dowels in my cart for the flagpole hinge mod, and they've held up fine for several years.

extend the foot pedal so your now swiveling bar is also a pump handle.
Then you don't have to stick your leg under the machine and you can slide the lift as far back towards the head as you want.

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I guess "top method" is referring to the most adopted, but there are many other mod methods in this thread that work just as well if not better... and after thoroughly reading all of them, I'm convinced there's no wrong way as long as you can still get the cart where you want it and lift the pin. I personally chose the p2k method I saw earlier which extends the pump handle and also acts as the maneuver handle. I liked this method the best because you could get the lift table closer to the back of the pin where more of the weight is located.

This method is described here best over a year ago...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/modified-harbor-freight-lift-table/page/9#post-3865741

Thanks @p2k... I already had a hitch pin I cut to fit in the pipe, so my only expense for this entire mod was a $2.50 piece of iron pipe. Took me about 15 minutes to complete it and it works fantastically. Cheap and quick... couldn't ask for more, especially since I'll only be using this a few times per year. I did end up bending the pump handle a bit upwards to make it a bit more ergonomic to position and pump.

IMG_0492 (resized).jpg

Yep p2k's post should be keyed as well.

Here's a video I made about my experience with this method (worked great for me)