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(Topic ID: 205733)

MMr Troll issue


By Stosel

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 64 days ago by pmppk
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There have been 6 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

4A1AB3AE-57D9-4633-9CB6-16CF2E0227DD (resized).jpeg
trollback (resized).JPG
troll head diagram (resized).png
righttroll (resized).JPG
trollgrip2 (resized).jpg
Trollface (resized).JPG

#1 2 years ago

I have a new MMr that I love, it's my pinball baby. However, I am having an issue with the right troll. It is only registering maybe 1 out of every 10 hits.

I am sure it is an easy fix, and I love working on and fixing my pins, but I am a 100% newb to this. So, explaining it to me like I am a 5 year old would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

#2 2 years ago

There is a small switch behind the troll that’s two parallel pieces of copper that are called a leaf switch. You need to bend them closer together so that a ball hit makes the two pieces of copper touch. That’s it; should be simple enough. Compare the working troll to the broken troll to see the difference in the gap.

Marc

#3 2 years ago

Ooooooooo, I get to use my picture.

mschonbrun described the leaf blade switch. A ball hits the troll face pushing it back. In turn pushing the long leaf blade right behind the troll face into the shorter leaf blade farther from the troll face. Adjust the rear one a little closer. Check out my picture. Red arrow is to leaf blade switch, yellow arrow is the direction to adjust to. A tweak or two and you'll have that troll screaming for mercy.

If you are handy, easiest is pull the troll assembly up and adjust then, above the playfield.

LTG : )

Trollface (resized).JPG

#4 2 years ago

The troll assembly is tough to access. I had to replace the right troll head as the back of the head has 2 holes, the lower of those 2 holes is awfully close to the bottom edge and the plastic margin is thin enough to break on troll hits. It is possible that your troll is not secure as well as what was suggested in the prior post. To access the troll and take a look is the hardest part. Here is what I do:

1) Underneath the playfield, wedge something between the plunger bottom and the bottom of the troll assembly bracket to put the troll in an up position have it sticking out above the playfield.
2) Wedge a post rubber between the troll trap door and the top of the troll head to give some clearance to look at it. DO NOT REMOVE THE TRAP DOOR FROM THE TROLL ASSEMBLY. It is too hard to re-assemble.

Actually replacing the troll head can be done without taking the whole assembly out, via unscrewing the 4 screws underneath the playfield. However, for replacing the switches maybe you need to pull the whole troll assembly up through the playfield. There has been good advice on other threads on how to do that check out the MMR dedicated thread or LTG here's advice..

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

However, for replacing the switches maybe you need to pull the whole troll assembly up through the playfield.

Unplug troll face connector below the playfield. Remove hex nut holding troll carriage to the plunger. Wiggle troll carriage up and on the way out lean left to clear hole in playfield. For the left troll, remove the wireform over him.

LTG : )

#6 2 years ago

Thank you all so much for your fast replies. You are my Pinside Christmas miracle!

Bonus Christmas magic points to LTG for the pictures. I will work on this tonight after my munchkin is asleep, and mark the topic resolved as soon as I test it out.

#7 2 years ago

One good piece of advice I was given here is that for Troll work, get yourself an ignition wrench. I bought a range of 3 from Home Depot or Lowes I forget which one. The wrenches were 1/4, 5/16 and 11/32 I think. The 11/32 is the one that fits I believe but I am going by memory. Check out the MMR dedicated thread I explained everything there I believe when I did it a couple of months ago.

#8 2 years ago

I lied, I couldn't wait until tonight to fix it. I did end up having to pull the troll assembly up through the playfield, but I am happy to say that now the troll is "screaming for mercy".

Thank you all again for the help, and swift replies!

#9 2 years ago

Awesome! Great job on your first tweak/fix.

1 week later
#10 2 years ago

I am having a strange issue with the right troll. When I start the mode I am supposed to hit both trolls 3 times to defeat them. Well, when the mode starts it show I need to hit the left troll 3 times, but the right troll I only need to hit once to defeat it. The last time I played and started the mode, the left troll showed I needed three hits like it should, BUT the right troll dropped down and it said zero hits left. So he was defeated as soon as the mode started. Any ideas? The game is less than a month old!

#11 2 years ago

Same thing happened to me when my right troll was loose as I explained earlier here. Your troll is loose.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Same thing happened to me when my right troll was loose as I explained earlier here. Your troll is loose.

Thanks. I will try that.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Same thing happened to me when my right troll was loose as I explained earlier here. Your troll is loose.

I assume you are talking about the connector to the board. Just re-seat it? Correct? Or the actual troll head is loose.

2 years later
#14 79 days ago

I am not sure if this was answered, but the screw behind one of the trolls heads fell out. How can I access the back of the troll to get it back in?

#15 79 days ago
Quoted from smallstocks:

I am not sure if this was answered, but the screw behind one of the trolls heads fell out. How can I access the back of the troll to get it back in?

Hi Mike

You most likely have to disassemble this. Turn the game off. If the right troll no problem. If the left you have to remove the wireform above it.

On top the playfield, pull the troll carriage up, I grab it with a vice grip so it doesn't go back down. See picture. Then the metal flap on top of the troll, is held by two clips on the two posts hooked to the troll carriage. You need to carefully remove the hairpin clip on each one and spring. Be careful not to lose them. I put a magnet by them to catch anything that tries to get away, Lift off the metal flap. Release the vice grip and let it fall back into the game.

Below the playfield disconnect the one connector for the troll face leaf blade switch. Then unscrew the bolt holding the troll carriage to the plunger. Circled in yellow in attached picture. Then wiggle the troll carriage up and off of the plunger and pull up and lean to the left to clear the playfield to remove the troll carriage from the game.

Then remove the locknut holding the clear plastic switch guard in place. And the two screws holding the troll face leaf blade stack in place. Then you should be able to get at the back of the troll head to replace the screw.

Then reverse the order and reassemble.

Thank you,
LTG : )

righttroll (resized).JPGtrollgrip2 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#16 64 days ago

So I was playing the first ball of the first game after installing the XL display and RGB LED upgrades, and my left troll basically vomited up the washer (2c) and its machine screws (2d) onto the play field.

I’ve got the whole thing disassembled now, but I can’t get the head reattached to the switch because the two machine screws aren’t threading into anything. Is there something missing from the diagram (inside the head?) that the machine screws are supposed to thread into? Or are they supposed just thread into the plastic of the head?

troll head diagram (resized).png
#17 64 days ago
Quoted from pmppk:

but I can’t get the head reattached to the switch because the two machine screws aren’t threading into anything.

You have the head - 2 B. The part of the switch stack 2 A slides inside the head. 2 A has the threaded holes. The two screws 2 D go through the metal plate 2 C through the holes in the back of the troll face and screw into 2 A inside the troll face.

LTG : )

#18 64 days ago
Quoted from pmppk:but I can’t get the head reattached to the switch because the two machine screws aren’t threading into anything.

Post 17 above and this picture will help you.

LTG : )

trollback (resized).JPG
#19 64 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

You have the head - 2 B. The part of the switch stack 2 A slides inside the head. 2 A has the threaded holes. The two screws 2 D go through the metal plate 2 C through the holes in the back of the troll face and screw into 2 A inside the troll face.
LTG : )

Thanks for the quick reply. That makes sense... but the holes on my leaf switch 2A are definitely not threaded and are a bit bigger than the diameter of the machine screws. The side that would face towards the front of the head is a bit discolored, as if something was poorly welded or soldered to it and got detached. Will add a photo once my phone charges, but it sounds like if I can find this threaded piece I may be able to get it reassembled even without it being physically attached to the leaf switch.

#20 64 days ago
Quoted from pmppk:

but the holes on my leaf switch 2A are definitely not threaded and are a bit bigger than the diameter of the machine screws.

I've never heard of it happening. But I wonder if the threaded parts broke off of the metal blade ?

LTG : )

#21 64 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I've never heard of it happening. But I wonder if the threaded parts broke off of the metal blade ?
LTG : )

Well, sure enough, i just found this in the back of the cabinet.

4A1AB3AE-57D9-4633-9CB6-16CF2E0227DD (resized).jpeg
#22 64 days ago
Quoted from pmppk:

Well, sure enough, i just found this in the back of the cabinet.

Glue it back on. 5 minute epoxy or super glue. You can see where it came apart. Where it glues to is on the opposite side of where the screws go in. So when assembled, the screws will hold it all together. Like a sandwich. Screw - metal plate - troll - metal leaf blade - part glued on with threads. When assembled the screws will squeeze it all together.

LTG : )

#23 64 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Glue it back on. 5 minute epoxy or super glue. You can see where it came apart. Where it glues to is on the opposite side of where the screws go in.

Yup, got it done last night, good as new. Thanks again, once I knew where the threads were supposed to be, it was clear there was a piece missing.

Pete

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