(Topic ID: 123356)

MMr Owners Thread


By MrSanRamon

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 206 posts
  • 74 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Are you adding Coin Mechs?”

  • Yes 28 votes
    29%
  • No 50 votes
    52%
  • Maybe Later 18 votes
    19%

(96 votes by 0 Pinsiders)

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There are 206 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
#151 3 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

And it's just a decal, easily changed one day far, far in the future should you need to.

Good to know. Thanks!

#152 3 years ago

Its been a Cap'n Crunch Castle Crushing morning!

1 week later
#153 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Yes, just launch a ball from the shooter lane and see if it hits the right sling as it traverses the playfield toward the flippers.
I just let the plunged balls take whatever route they would naturally take without any shaking of the machine, and on mine 75% plus hit the right sling.
Robert

I'm having this same issue, did you get this fixed somehow? Is the right ball guide adjustable?

Thanks
-K

#154 3 years ago
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:

I'm having this same issue, did you get this fixed somehow?

I bent the metal piece slightly outward (see Pic) at the right loop. it was a bit of a pain, but it helped the issue a lot.

Robertleft_ramp_01.JPG

#155 3 years ago

Has anyone installed flipper button/cabinet protectors, the transparent kind that does not ruin the decal and can be peeled off?
Any recommendations, I only saw ones for Stern but not sure if they'll work

Thanks,
-K

1 month later
#156 3 years ago

It's been ~10 months now since I got my game, still counting my blessings on getting my game about 2 months after I bought into someone's spot. I feel for those who paid before me and still are waiting.

While I don't play pinball everyday and sometime not every week, I still enjoy playing my MMR. After the couple of issue I had early on, it's been flawless in it's operation since. It's great getting to play this game and not having it be in a less than 100% condition.

I don't get to Pinside often anymore, so I just read that another remake is on the way and I've been pondering whether I would partake.

It's always cool to get something new, that's for sure, and depending on the title I may get in line. But the costs these days of buying new is making me think more about the "need" rather than the "want" aspect.

So I ask myself if I'd buy a MMR now, having it for awhile...knowing what I do now. That's a difficult question for me. I play my ST premium more and find it more challenging than MMR, but MM is a unique game in both artwork and speech.

Also, I have thought about the 5 games I have and find that if I "had to" sell 2, which would they be. The answer is easy for the first...X-Men, I like and enjoy it the least; that title is definitely one I have considered selling. The second game (Fastbreak is essentially the only game played by the grand-kids so it has to stay) is a tie between MMR and Spiderman. I like them both for different reasons...Spiderman for game play and MMR for, well, being a beautiful unique game.

I don't have MMR buyers remorse but I'm wondering if anyone else questions the value of paying 8 grand for their MMR.

Robert

#157 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I'm wondering if anyone else questions the value of paying 8 grand for their MMR.
Robert

I do since I paid in full last spring and still have nothing to show for it.

#158 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I do since I paid in full last spring and still have nothing to show for it.

Yes, I'm sure there are a lot of people in your shoes that have the same thought and I feel your pain.

Robert

#159 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

I do since I paid in full last spring and still have nothing to show for it.

I have huge buyers remorse too, paid for it Summer before last and can't even get my distributer to respond to an e-mail.

4 weeks later
#160 3 years ago

Has anyone installed the lit troll eyes on MMR? If so what is the best way to do it? Also I'm thinking of connecting a 12v light strip to the flashers on the back panel to trigger a lightning effect but I need to make sure the flasher boards are in fact 12v when I get home tonight. Has anyone done this as well?

2 weeks later
#161 3 years ago

So I just got home from work and checked the mail. Looks like the diffuser kit for my MMR just showed up. The diffuser is a large sheet of styrene plastic and a few smaller pieces(for the smaller led boards) and it looks like you install it in between the PF and the main board(and smaller led boards) using existing screws and holes. I have my daughter tonight so I won't be able to install it until tomorrow after work (or maybe tonight after she goes to sleep) but here are a few pics in the meantime.

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#162 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Looks like the diffuser kit for my MMR just showed up

What's the story on the diffuser?

Robert

#163 3 years ago

I'm going to attempt to install it tonight and I will post some pics and info

#164 3 years ago

OK so I installed the diffuser tonight it wasn't as complex to install as the directions sound. Basically what you have to do is remove the 5 small light boards from the playfield you can keep them plugged in and let them hang then unplug all of the connectors from the top blue solenoid driver board (I used my daughters washable markers to color code each plug ) then unplug 23 plugs along the right side of the big green board (GI and Switches) from JS28 clockwise all the way to J8. All of those plugs were color coded from the factory or at least on mine it was. Then unplug the 2 troll switches (SW74 and SW75) also unplug the Ethernet cable. Next unscrew the screws holding the green board to the Playfield but keep them in the standoffs. Also remove the 2 steel wire bundle hangers that in the way and let them hang. Here comes the part that took a bit of patience. You need to slowly work the board up each side between the sling shot coils it's a bit tight and tedious because of all the connectors that snag so just go slow. Once that's done maneuver the diffuser sheet between the board and th PF. Once you get it lined up you hand tighten a few screws in the green board's standoffs to hold the diffuser sheet now gently work the board back between the sling coils and line the mounting screws back up with their holes. Make sure you don't trap any plugs between the board and the PF. Tighten down the board and plug everything back in. Then reinstall the small light boards with their matching diffuser piece. Overall it took me about a hour and a half (including a cigarette and cold beer break lol) it is a huge difference on the inserts. The best way I can describe it is that it looks exactly like an incandescent bulb and gets rid of that bright spot in the middle. It doesn't make the ink look solid jet black or anything but I can read them with no issue during game play even the king inserts are readable. Here are some pics of the process

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#165 3 years ago

It's really hard to catch a before and after in a pic in person it is really noticeable but here is my best attempt at a before and after

Here is the before

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#166 3 years ago

Here is an after:

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#167 3 years ago

Thanks for the pics and the detailed account of the work. Appreciated. How do you get the diffuser sheet, request it on Chicago gaming's site?

#168 3 years ago

From what I understand they will be distributed by your distributor. CGC sent a few out directly to me and a few others but the majority will be handled through the distributors. Your best bet would be to call your distro and ask them to ship you the diffuser kit and it may be helpful to file a ticket with CGC asking for the diffuser although I'm not sure if that is necessary or not.

#169 3 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Thanks for the pics and the detailed account of the work. Appreciated. How do you get the diffuser sheet, request it on Chicago gaming's site?

I just spoke with Doug at CGC he had asked me to touch base with him today after I installed the diffuser and give him some feedback on how the installation went. I figured while I had him on the phone I would ask him what was the best way for people to get their diffusers. He told me that the best way was just to get in touch with your distributor and that they will be the ones sending it out

#170 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

I'm going to attempt to install it tonight and I will post some pics and info

Looks great in the pics.

Robert

#171 3 years ago

I noticed improvement on the upper inserts but not the lower.

#172 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

He told me that the best way was just to get in touch with your distributor and that they will be the ones sending it out

I just did that, but the distributor in the UK hasn't heard anything from them.

edit: I've been informed the distributors will get them in 3 weeks.

#173 3 years ago

Funny, the diffuser kit is almost identical to one I made for TWD and stops those pinpoint leds showing through. GOT could do with one as well.

#174 3 years ago

My distributor said he'd send me one or I could wait for the S/W update that lets the LED intensity to be adjusted.

I've decided to wait..and see.

Robert

#175 3 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Here is an after:

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That is really too bad.

The diffuser certainly makes the poor print quality on the inserts more obvious.

#176 3 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

That is really too bad.
The diffuser certainly makes the poor print quality on the inserts more obvious.

I have to agree. There is a distinct difference between Drewblood's MMR and mine. This is a situation where you either accept it or pursue a warranty claim. If the diffuser does not correct the problem and the buyer remains dissatisfied, CGC should offer an exchange of populated playfields.

#177 3 years ago
Quoted from PinScott:

I have to agree. There is a distinct difference between Drewblood's MMR and mine. This is a situation where you either accept it or pursue a warranty claim. If the diffuser does not correct the problem and the buyer remains dissatisfied, CGC should offer an exchange of populated playfields.

At a purchase price of 8K, I would ask CGC for a replacement populated playfield if they can't properly repair the original.

If they deny the claim, I would contact American Express which is the only method of payment I use for NIB machines.

2 months later
#178 3 years ago

Installed the diffuser kit. Took me about 2 periods of a NHL playoff game, 2 beers and a cut finger but I got it done. It does look better IMO and inserts are more readable.

Make sure to follow the instruction guide, as it will minimize your work and help you avoid mistakes.

1 month later
#179 2 years ago

Ball is getting stuck on the right loop. It hangs up on the two gates. Anyone seen or have a solution? I'm never around to see it happen, just fix it...

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#180 2 years ago
Quoted from Knox_Amusement:

Ball is getting stuck on the right loop. It hangs up on the two gates. Anyone seen or have a solution? I'm never around to see it happen, just fix it...

Better question: how's it getting up there in the first place? I wonder what it's ricocheting off to get on top of the hardware.

Marc

#181 2 years ago
Quoted from Knox_Amusement:

Ball is getting stuck on the right loop. It hangs up on the two gates. Anyone seen or have a solution? I'm never around to see it happen, just fix it...

Never seen that one yet....

#182 2 years ago

The upper gate seems to be pointed downward more than it should be.

#183 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Better question: how's it getting up there in the first place? I wonder what it's ricocheting off to get on top of the hardware.
Marc

Dunno... I'm just there to fix it... Play many games and can never recreate the air ball that land there.

#184 2 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

The upper gate seems to be pointed downward more than it should be.

That almost sounds too easy. I'll be looking at this today. Thanks!

3 weeks later
#185 2 years ago

I finally got around to installing the diffuser kit. It took about an hour and was kind of awkward to do but not too bad.
I was somewhat sceptical, but I'm very happy with the impact it has on the game. It has made the king's men inserts now much more readable. Before, if you didn't know their names, you wouldn't have been able to read them. Now, quite simply, you can.
It softens the light of all the inserts which makes it look more like incandescent light. I would recommend the kit even if your inserts are legible, if you would prefer an older school look to the inserts - but that comes down to personal preference. I believe you have to pay for it if your inserts are ok.
So my king's men inserts still have a washed out look on the ink - that hasn't changed obviously - but the softer light means they can easily be read now, and that's what I'm happy with at the end of the day.

#186 2 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

That is really too bad.
The diffuser certainly makes the poor print quality on the inserts more obvious.

Maybe in the photos. In person, it does not.

1 year later
#187 1 year ago

Has anyone had trouble updating? I can not get this damn game to read the MicroSD card I put in it. ...I just realized this is not a Class 10 card, perhaps that's it

#188 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anyone had trouble updating? I can not get this damn game to read the MicroSD card I put in it. ...I just realized this is not a Class 10 card, perhaps that's it

That’s it.

#189 1 year ago

Another damn $10 down the drain!!

1 month later
#190 1 year ago

After idk how many years of waiting, finally I have my MMR LE

I messaged llyod on pps forums, is pps helpdesk where we submit tickets for issues?

My draw bridge is not going down all the way even though the motor sounds like it should, either seems hung up/binded or the up/down switch isn't right with the lobe thinger.

EDIT: well I monkeyed with the down switch and had the draw bridge running in test for a bit watching it....not sure but it is "working" now. Wonder if the connection arm mech just needed to get some use to let the bridge fall all the way.

ANd my left troll head wont register a hit, if you pull the face forward and let go it does, so a small adjustment butttt what is the best way to get to that switch. I pulled the 4 screws under the pf for that mech but forgot the top of his head had a large flap so it wouldn't come out.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Has anyone had trouble updating? I can not get this damn game to read the MicroSD card I put in it. ...I just realized this is not a Class 10 card, perhaps that's it

I just updated with a samsung 32gb class 10 UHS 1 without issue. I'd just get a new small gb samsung or sandisk sd card, the low quality cards can be real crappy.

#191 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I messaged llyod on pps forums, is pps helpdesk where we submit tickets for issues?

You can put a post on the PPS site and also filled out a "ticket" on the Chicago Gaming site...the later is probably best.

Robert

#192 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

ANd my left troll head wont register a hit, if you pull the face forward and let go it does, so a small adjustment butttt what is the best way to get to that switch.

I've pulled the whole assembly up. Put a small vice grips on the carriage wall so it doesn't go back down. Then adjust the leaf blade. It's a simple leaf blade switch. Troll face on the long front one. Short rear one behind it. Adjust the rear one.

You can unplug the troll face switch, remove the bolt thing holding the carriage to the plunger, and pull the whole assembly up and out. Lean to the left to clear the playfield.

LTG : )

#193 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

You can put a post on the PPS site and also filled out a "ticket" on the Chicago Gaming site...the later is probably best.
Robert

I would think the "sooner" would probably be better! Sorry. I could not resist!

2 weeks later
#194 1 year ago

Recently got the "diffuser kit" and installed a few of the easy/small ones to compare...

It does make the lights appear like the old incandescent bulbs. It diffuses and changes the color at the same time, like instead of bright white now my castle insert is yellow-ish, the red outlane is more red. I'll get some photos soon. I had the lights at "low" level so you have to boost that back to normal to get more led power to shine through the diffuser plastic. So it makes the light diffused, a tad yellow and a lot less bright giving the overall effect of the old style bulbs. It's amazingly effective for such a cheap solution. But which do you prefer, that's a tough one. The ultra-bright led's might roast your cornea but they are very pretty. The diffuser is easy on the eyes and restores the "old school" feel of the original game.

It does make inserts slightly easier to read, but not much. I think the insert problem is a playfield manufacturing defect, just not right no matter what light is behind it (but doesn't bother me much).

The diffuser kit is an expense and some install hassle, but if you like the feel of the original game, then probably worth it. Otherwise just lower the light level and live in the new led world. You're fine either way, great game!

3 weeks later
#195 1 year ago

Can someone help me find an MMr thread?

There was one with common issues and fixes for MMr that I came across at one time. Very well organized. Can someone share if they know what I'm referring to? Thanks!

#196 1 year ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Can someone help me find an MMr thread?
There was one with common issues and fixes for MMr that I came across at one time. Very well organized. Can someone share if they know what I'm referring to? Thanks!

You probably mean this, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-nib-repair-kit

1 week later
#198 1 year ago

Is there a way to remove Service Credits if you accidentally add to many?

Thanks

#199 1 year ago
Quoted from mcbPalisade:

Is there a way to remove Service Credits if you accidentally add to many?

Go into Williams Main Menu - Utilities - Remove Credit - hit Enter then hit Start button to do it. All gone.

LTG : )

4 months later
#200 1 year ago

On the right side there is a red flasher and just above it there is an led flashed under the plastic. Is that led supposed to have a cover of some sort ? It’s super bright white and uncovered. Doesn’t seem right.

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