(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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  • 466 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Lame33
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Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (4 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#135 4 years ago
Quoted from PhasersOnKill:

New owner here. As far as mods and lighting is there any list of what works on MMr vs regular MM?
I'm mostly interested in the pinballbulbs extras lighting kit (spots and LED strips)

Did you end up getting kit from pinballbulbs? If so what do you think? Folks that did it themselves, could you provide info on the parts?

Quoted from bdaley6509:

Double headed dragon works fine in MMR.

From pinball decals?

#149 4 years ago
Quoted from HOOKED:

How you guy :party:s like these ? Now available as a kit or singles. With the purple flipper rubbers the swords really pop. hookedonpinball.com and other fine retailers.

IMG_1101.jpg IMG_1097.jpg IMG_1133.jpg IMG_1134.jpg

Good stuff - let the modding begin!

#165 4 years ago

Was wondering if anyone has found a 'Single' headed dragon mod with leds? Also has anyone done the troll mod for MMr yet? If so where did you grab the power from?

thanks,
tslayer

2 months later
#255 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I'm wondering that myself.

No different than any other pinball machine. You just have to get 12vdc. Look at post 207 in thread 'MMR NIB repair Kit'. This was my solution using DK pinball power adaptor.....

#261 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Do I need the WPC version?
I'm guessing I do.

Quoted from indypinhead:

Do I need the WPC version?
I'm guessing I do.

Quoted from indypinhead:

Do I need the WPC version?
I'm guessing I do.

I went with the WPC version from pinball life because the flippers are opto, not leaf switches. Think it's the 'brightlite' brand? You can also just cut WPC power connector off - strip insulation off wires and hook directly to pwr supply screw terminals...

#262 4 years ago

Oops! Wholy duplicate batman!

2 weeks later
#301 4 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

blades are not a problem. See post 50 and 51

What LTG said. The distance between the playfield and cabinet can be different for each machine. If the gap on yours is to small, blades are probably not going to work. Wait until you get your machine and check it out before you order any kind of blades....

2 weeks later
#391 3 years ago
Quoted from peaceboy666:

just wondering if any1s made say a 4way power tap for adding multiple mods,have already tapped into power supply once for topper and if stuff like under cabinet lighting etc etc need same power source i dont wish to be tapping multiple wires into same spot on power supply itself.thank you

http://www.dkpinball.com/DKWP/?page_id=396

1 month later
#490 3 years ago

At one point I wrote Rick and asked if pps would be making a Williams sticker and he said no. He said I'd have to buy the whole speaker panel. I'm not gonna buy a whole panel, but would have bought the sticker in a heartbeat. Oh well pps's loss......

3 weeks later
#578 3 years ago

The thing that sucks is that when the code update / color update is available we'll have to learn about it here on pinside. Would be nice if CGC would reach out to the owners in another way. Their communication to customers blows...

#581 3 years ago
Quoted from miguelortega:

Anyone have an issue where the ball goes into the castle but is not allowed to go all the way in and bounces right back out? The gate is open obviously. There's a metal piece that prevents it from going in

In this thread 'MMR NIB Repair Kit' , look at post #56

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-nib-repair-kit/page/2

5 months later
#858 3 years ago

Ok, so when I hit a fast shot to the left loop it goes to the right flipper. Balls coming down the right loop going slow (like from Merlin's magic) hit the top of the right slingshot. So every ball coming down the right loop should goto the right flipper - even slow ones?

3 months later
#1047 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I have the assembly as far through the playfield as it will go and can see the leaf switch screw behind the troll head but how do I get to it? I don't have tools that small to get behind the head and tighten the screw

It's easier to remove troll assembly's from the bottom of the playfield. Look at this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medieval-madness-troll

See posts 5 and 6.......

-1
#1049 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Take off two wire clips, take off the two springs, remove the troll flap. Then unplug two connectors and unbolt the whole assembly and drop down. And on reassembly lose the clips or springs trying to get them back on the posts on the metal flap.
Or my way, one connector and one bolt. Hmmmmmmm , my way seems easier. Though the left troll you would need to remove the wireform above it.
per3per3 didn't do what I posted and removed the wrong thing and no way he can get the troll carriage out of the game.
LTG : )

Under is easier. You don't have to take anything apart until you remove the assembly. Remove four screws until assembly is loose. Unplug connectors, and remove assembly via the bottom of playfield. I did this with both my troll assembles recently and it works great...

#1051 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

What are your plans for the metal flap on top of the troll carriage ? It won't fit through the hole in the playfield.
LTG : )

Yes it will dude....... Read post six like I stated above

-2
#1053 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I yield. I've only be removing troll carriages for twenty years. What do I know.
LTG : )

When someone gives you useful correct info maybe you should try it before saying it wont work....

#1056 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Over the years I have tried that. And came to the conclusion that one bolt and one connector was easiest.
LTG : )

I guess will have to agree to disagree. I can tell you that going through the bottom does work.... When you fit the flap through you just have to be patient and try not to force anything.....

#1059 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

It does work. But the fiddly job of removing the troll flap might be too much for a first timer. The other method involves a single bolt...one that he has already removed.

You don't have to remove troll flap at all - just fit it through playfield, that's the beauty of it....

troll_wire (resized).jpg

trolls! (resized).jpg

#1063 3 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Yeah I now understand. Did not realize the flap would indeed make it through the PF hole attached...interesting. Still he claims he has the black bolt out at this point so the thing should be out at this point from the top.
If it's just the leaf switch that needs adjusting (like mine did) I don't know why I'd want to remove the entire assembly though. Even to replace it (as it looks like he will have to) he'll still just need the top half.
Still - I learned a new trick today. Thx!

You're Welcome! For me it was easier working on the assembly once it is completely out of the game. Much more room to work and keep track of parts....

#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I am setting up MMR as I just picked it up. I cannot unlock the backbox. Are the backbox keys and the coin door keys the same? For some reason it won't turn the lock. Thanks!

Should be another key hanging on a clip on the coin door I think.....

1 week later
#1089 2 years ago

I would pick the flasher you want to trigger your new LED strip and put a multimeter across it (most likely DC) and measure the voltage in flasher test mode. Then goto Comet pinball and pick up the LED strip. Their LED strips do both AC and DC. Pick the voltage that is closest to what you measured and it should work...

#1098 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Kind of what i did hence the 12v and 5v. I tested with my relay using both the 5v and trying it as a ground trigger, as i can see the voltage drop on the 5v in test mode. However neither worked.
I could potentially just use one of the standard (red dome) flashers, but i really wanted it tied to the moat.

I would hook up the LED strip by using alligator clips if possible. Hook the clips across the flasher leads and test....

1 month later
#1372 2 years ago
Quoted from NonStopSwagger:

Many LE owners bought stainless. No difference other than the sticker on the apron.
Seriously, they have stern LE and Premium games as one, and they have completely different looking cabs and backglasses. MMRLE has an extra decal on the apron - new game!!!

They are the same game. LE owners got a shaker motor, a metal plaque on the apron, and $200.00 off the color LCD upgrade...

#1383 2 years ago
Quoted from NonStopSwagger:

My standard (#1018) has plywood on the bottom, and is painted inside. Only difference from an LE is no decal on the apron. Therefore it's a different game by pinsides rules

Metal, not a decal

3 weeks later
#1508 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Question:
What are MMr owners doing to add headphones to their game?

Maybe use this webpage to contact Buckwerx and ask......

http://buckwerxaudio.com/

2 weeks later
#1625 2 years ago

Hilarious, guy must not have google on his computer....

#1638 2 years ago

Suggestion. Why don't you guys Set your games at 6.5 degrees or greater and develop your skills for your game, instead of changing your game to make it easier or predictable?

#1640 2 years ago

Even though there all MM's every game could be different. Differences on the playfield, different level angles side to side, and playfield pitch. When I measure pitch at the top it's 6.7, in the middle 6.5, at the bottom 6.3. I'm happy because for the most part it's 6.5 or greater which are factory settings. Get it as level as you can side to side and set your playfield pitch. At that point play it and have fun....

#1642 2 years ago

Think someone shared a link with you awhile back from pinball news about how to level a machine - read that it's great. In the article they recommend a Craftsman level. You bought an $8000.00 game, spend 50 bucks on a level. I usually turn the fronts all the way in and do side to side on the back. Once you measure the level you should be able to adjust side by side by changing only one leverer in the back...

#1644 2 years ago

Other than that, coming out of the mote on the left side I can hold the flipper up and i can cradle the ball. On the right when it comes out of the pops it goes to the right flipper fast and can't really catch. Originally it would hit the slightshot. I took a long nose and bent the ball guide out a little (thanks Rarehero). But again my game not yours...

#1653 2 years ago

So if your game is truly level side to side I would look at 3 things. If you replaced your flipper rubber, put the original rubber back on. Have someone ( I'm at work) who's game consistently traps on the left flipper take a picture of the flipper in the raised position. Look how the flipper lines up with something on the playfield, and adjust your flipper the same. The last thing I would try is adjusting (bending) the left metal ball guide. That's all I can think of.......

#1656 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Nope, rubber is factory still.
Can you possibly get a photo of yours later? Curious to see how mine lines up.

Sure if nobody beats me to it I'll take a pic when I get home..... Also I would reconfirm your game is staying level side to side.

#1665 2 years ago

Ok when my left flipper is up, the middle of the flipper tip lines up with the top corner of the 'F' in 'Defeat'......

#1669 2 years ago

Very close. Maybe a little higher. Looks like it's lined with the center of the 'f' not the top corner, but you'll be a better judge looking at it in person. I wouldn't worry about the bubble level, use the digital ones. It looks level. I just wanted to make sure that by playing and nudging the game it wasn't making the side to side level go outta wack. Playing my game tonight I'd say I can trap the ball maybe 70% of the time. The other 30% it's bouncing off the flipper....

#1691 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

I've been debating about getting a AFM as well as I enjoy that game a lot too. Only concern is if it's too similar to MM, would it get boring?
I found it to be fun and the humor great like MM.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mm-vs-afm

2 months later
#2058 2 years ago

Read this thread, follow yancy's wiring advice and get the speakers that nosro has a link to. Cheap upgrade and it sounds great. Also go with the Polk psw10 external sub....

1 week later
#2090 2 years ago

Anyone interested in a laseriffic mm topper? $200.00 you pay for shipping. If so please PM me...

1 month later
#2254 2 years ago
Quoted from spazzman90:

Anyone have any info on some upgrades for the MMr? I have the AFMr now and the bar is set so high on the play experience. I heard they were going to offer the screen for MM at some point. That would be a start. The speakers need some work as well. I'll have to live without a topper and extra lighting. Would be nice to have these machines look like they 'belong together'.

Huh? Topper's are available through Laseriffic. You can add spotlights from pinball life. New speakers make a huge difference. Look at post #2058 for that...

3 months later
#2766 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

I probably have close to 1000 games, everything looks fine so far... not saying adding protection isn't a good thing, but i haven't seen a need for it yet. Be it laziness or otherwise
To open up a can of worms, and i'm sure everyone has an opinion, but i've also heard that the metal protectors can scuff up the ball more, which just leads to more wear on the playfield elsewhere. I'm sure that's like a--holes and opinions, everyone has one...

I agree. I've got 1000 + plays with no wear. Put mylar in the shooter lane and ball drain before it goes into the trough. Keep playfield waxed and buy quality pinballs. You can always add protectors later if there's wear which will cover it up...

#2770 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

What balls are you using? I tried those super polished silver jet balls, and they play way too fast.

I like superjets. You can always goto pinball life too...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=5

Only thing with super jets is they get magnetized and do weird things with pins with magnets, so don't use them there....

#2791 2 years ago
Quoted from GGBGROUP:

Just got mine and loving this game! Question on the skill shot when you launch a new ball. Is the consensus that the 'true' skill shot (hold left flipper) + possible castle points is a better option than going for the much easier 50K points + bonus multiplier via lane selection?

It depends, but it is cool to get the super skill shot....

#2793 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

No chip, no color. The software is suitable for both color and non-color.

Ya, you gotta install the chip. Didn't your upgrade kit come with docs? I forget, could be online...

#2827 2 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

I am not a mod guy at all. People make their games look so crappy with some of the toys and crap they put on them. However I really want just a little more light on the front of the castle / drawbridge area. Any ideas for something that is completely reversible and tasteful?

There's two spotlights shinning on the castle with yellow bulbs I think. Goto comet pinball and look at their spotlight bulbs. I would just change the originals with something brighter...

#2839 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

There's two spotlights shinning on the castle with yellow bulbs I think. Goto comet pinball and look at their spotlight bulbs. I would just change the originals with something brighter...

So this won't make your game any brighter, but I just changed out my castle spotlights with these:

https://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=FIRE

Produces a flame effect - kinda cool....

#2841 2 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Any photos? Or I’m guessing really hard to get a good photo of that...

Ya it would be tough to get a good shot. I was buying some other LEDs and decided to give them a try as long as I was paying for shipping...

8 months later
#3558 1 year ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Has anyone install the catapult LED mod from pimp my pin to MMR, installed mine today but not sure where to connect the red and black wires to as the wiring instruction are for the original MM, any help would be greatly appreciated.
cheers
Trevor
Brisbane
Australia

Hi, you should be able to hook it up across any existing GI bulb. If there are none that reach with the cable on your mod, you may have to splice on extra cable so it will reach...

6 months later
#3908 10 months ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Has anyone bought the troll mod with led eyes from Pinwize?
I bought them last year. Didnt dare do it on my own as it requires removing the troll mechs and stuff over my head so had a local guy that knows this stuff a lot better then me try to put them in. He said the design of the wires coming out the bottom of the trolls makes it so hits won't register on the trolls due to the way the wire was configured by Pinwize. Had another guy that was over yesterday that is a lot better tech and he said the same thing (after spending 30 minutes removing the troll mechs again).
I am upset as I paid Pinwize $120 for these things which I'm being told will not work due to how Pinwize did the wires. Has anyone had success installing these? Emailed the guy at Pinwize in Europe that made them but no reply yet.

7 months later
#4356 3 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

My game has this topper....
If I buy the new topper can I add a plug the old one and put it on a shelf to light up?[quoted image]

Pretty sure it's 12v DC not 120 AC. You would have to find a 12vdc transfomer or power source....

#4361 3 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

Ok - so maybe something like this would work?
amazon.com link »

I was thinking more like this, but either/or...

amazon.com link »

#4513 86 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Well, with any luck, every time a troll pops up out of the playfield, it will remind you not to troll your fellow Pinsiders. Please, tell us one more time that you sold your LE to get an RE, preferably while insulting another pinsider who isn't as worthy. It wasn't about downvotes, wacky, it was about treating others here like shit.
And that will be all on that. Back to this great game. I'll get another eventually.

Wow! Wacky's getting a Royal - hadn't heard that

#4516 86 days ago
Quoted from rai:

Can anyone say how GI is on this, was playing a MM before was a bit dark. Is there anything in menu or new light effects that improve GI?

Cheap solution - spotlights from pinball life...

#4519 86 days ago

For those of you guys new to MMr, here's a good thread to help you with common issues that might come up....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-nib-repair-kit

I figure you'll have time to read it until your pins arrive

1 week later
#4618 76 days ago

I'd be in for the dragon - badass!

1 week later
#4674 63 days ago

Got my badass dragon - thanks Mike and Mark!

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